The Sailor of Sailors Dreams of Remote Horizons. (Centkiewicz )

My Yacht Log 04.02 - 04.09, 2007

"In the beginning they could not understand my insistence on getting away from the compass, that god of the West. But in exchange, they began to hear the why and sea talking with the boat. And when blue-tinted land appeared on the horizon, looking as it did to the mariners of old, all nimbed with mystery, a few of them felt that our rigorous techniques should leave a door open to those gods which the modern world tries so hard to exclude." -Bernard Moitessier, 'The Long Way'.

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04.02.2007 (Day 191)

Paid the huge amount for the canal transit:

$840+600+850 US. 850 is the deposit what will be returned in two weeks after the transit; 850 is the penalty for not being able to travel at 8 knots (easy to compute that my boat's speed is 5-6 knots); $600 US is the transit fee determined by the boat classification.

Thereafter got on the internet for 7 hours to load up my log, then the usual letters, pictures…

Then reserved a room on telephone (Bogi is arriving in Panama City, by then it is dangerous to go back to Colon – Frederico suggested a good place.

Lunch: local soup for $1 US.

Beer drinking in the evening with professional American sailors who unfortunately won't be my rope handlers, they leave already on the 7th, I transit on the 16th.

Had to drink beer till 11 in the evening with Norwegian, American and Spanish sailors in the marina bar because it is difficult to find a dinghy back to the harbor after 8 o'clock. Finally a Spanish sailor took me back to Carina who also offered his #2 dinghy to me, but it was too big (for 5 persons) so I could not accept it. Crossed my mind to buy a rubber boat for 1-2 persons here in Colon – heard of a place where the prices are cheap.

04.03.2007 (Day 192)

Got up at 6, the Spanish friend took me out at 7:30. He has a Panamanian girlfriend who goes to work every morning.

Took the 8 o'clock bus to Panama City, arrived at 10:20 on the Albrook terminal. Originally I was to go with the Americans but they overslept. With another bus I went to Cinco de Mayo, yet another one took me to Armador. Géza Szabó (www.rotorman.hu) gave a description of the approach to the place where he is anchored in the harbor.

Visited Évi and Géza on their ship. Last time Géza visited me was in Újpest while Carina was still in the yard. This was the time we decided on the Panama meeting…..

Géza made potato pancakes for lunch, he is a good cook! Then 1 or 2 beers plus Jäger – I felt very good. Possibly we could meet on Galapagos.

Started out around 4 to Tocumen International Airport. Could meet Bogi after 6 months and 11 days. I was just as excited as before our first rendezvous….

Stay: at Hotel Marparaiso, Calle 34 Ave. Justo, Avosemena (www.marparaiso.com). One night costs $22 US including airport transfer.

The place was perfect, judged to be a 2-star hotel. Dinner in a nearby local eatery: fried banana with chicken, meat cookies.

2007.04.04 (Day 193)

Up at 8 in the morning then went to the office of Happy Tours (www.happytours.biz) where we met the boss, Alvaro H. Guzmán F., who very cordially received us. Left the new sails there because they will not fit into the ship at transit. Arranged the Waterlog (drinking water purifier machine) to be shipped here too. Bogi built up these relationships too in Panama.

We went to town to look at the business center, then the Old Town. Liked the fish market best, so we had our lunch there. The lunch consisted of the usual local soup, fried fish, fried banana. In the old part of the city (San Felipe) we got in a little dangerous neighborhood. A soldier stopped us, he called a tourist-police car which took us back to a safer area.

The soldiers and the police are very observant of the tourists. Interneting did not go without a hitch – they wanted to charge more than the Chinese internet coffeehouse. Had some communications problems too, but they understood the word "stupido", thereafter we could converse in English too.

Returned to our place at 2 PM, had enough time for a last cup of coffee, then took a bus to Albrook terminal. The return trip was not as easy – the bus died halfway back, with great difficulty we found a local bus which was much slower, but was cheaper back to Colon. It stopped at every street corner and the usual Caribbean music was blaring out of the radios.

Arrived at the marina after 6 where we had a talk and a few drinks with Frederico, an Italian solo sailor.

As every evening, called the marine traffic scheduler but unfortunately my transit date did not change from the 16th of April. Late evening drinking and listening to music with Patrick and Maria on their yacht. She demonstrated the local dances – very erotic. After a long day, arrived at Carina about midnight.

04.05.2007 (Day 194)

Got up early morning, the bed is too small and uncomfortable for two people. An American newspaper reporter had an interview with me with some pictures, it will be published in a smaller local American paper. Showed Colon to Bogi after taking care of the usual daily internet. The most interesting place was probably the market where we shopped: banana, pineapple, papaya, platano….

Found ourselves in a dangerous zone, a local came by and kindly told us to get back on the main road - this area is unsafe. Had lunch in a local eatery on the main road. In the afternoon in the marina we talked and had a few drinks mostly with Frederico. Met Judith (a Hungarian) and her English husband Graham from the English ship named 'Nomad'. Their web site: www.nomadlife.co.uk. They arrived today and planning to transit the Canal as well. Plan: to circumnavigate the world. They hire sailors for longer trips. At present Herbert, an older Swiss engineer is accompanying them to New Zealand. Toward evening had some drinks on Frederico's ship, got acquainted with his cat 'Mishita'. Sailing together now for 5 years, Mishita seldom leaves the ship. Frequently happens that a solo sailor takes a cat or dog along.

04.06.2007 (Day 195)

Due to the rain the whole day, we don't sail to the nearby Rio Charges river. From April on the rain increases and May is the beginning of the rainy season. The rain lets up around noon, so we can go in town to have lunch in a local eatery. Besides the local soup, tried a 'lángosh-like" (lángosh: Hungarian fried flat bread) baked dough. We were witnesses here to a minor atrocity: A local wanted to throw a bottle in the restaurant, but fortunately a security man was also present who grabbed his weapon, the hooligan dropped the bottle and ran away.

The tense moments seemed like hours, but luckily there were no more serious incidents. Shopping in the afternoon, then a walk to the tax-exempt closed area where bought 3 liters of fine Caribbean rum for $5 US. Here the tourists go by taxi - but I like adventure, so we don't… Really, we don't carry a lot of money or valuables.

04.07.2007 (Day 196)

Got up early morning, because we wanted to sail to the Rio Charges. No rain today. Pulled up both anchors and started out with the motor. Smoke filled the ship after about 100 meters. Stopped the motor and started to check it out. In about 30 seconds I realized that the cooling system is not working. In this condition we can not go to the river, in the harbor only motor traffic is allowed. Trying to get back to my anchor site was difficult, used the motor for 10 seconds at the time – 1-2 minutes waiting in-between.

Between all this a German sailor came in his dinghy offering help, but I decided that the tail wind will be help enough. Slowly reached the anchoring spot, constantly checking the motor temperature. After anchoring, checked the cooling duct intakes by inserting a wire and wiggling, cleaning them. To my dismay, the motor did not recover. Probably the local dirty water clogged up the cooling system. The bottom of the boat and the anchor ropes quickly accumulate algae. Talked with Dad on the MSM who called his friend Pipics, the motor mechanic for advice. He suggested that I should blow into the cooling line from the motor side with an air pump.

Lunch in the city near the open market: the usual soup, platano, pork and chicken. Not a very hygienic place, but it has a mood I like.

Frederico came in the afternoon (his boat name: Evasione, meaning Escape) and brought a pump, tried to clean the cooling system. Did not work, but the antenna guide rope broke after 6 months of use, the antenna fell in the cockpit, almost landed on our heads. This was not a successful day, so we consoled ourselves with a little drinking.

Made the dinner tonight: baked platano and eggs sunny-side-up, plus baked corn shortbread what the locals frequently eat here. Frederico invited us for a little happening in Colon but we were too tired and stayed home.

04.08.2007 (Day 197)

Sunday – the motor mechanic is off, so we took a bus to Gatun lake. The bus station in Colon is a dangerous place – with a few aggressive "businessmen" around. Fortunately a soldier was present at the station, he helped us to find the bus. The trip lasted 20 minutes along the Canal during which we dined. Debarked from the bus and went up to a Gatun lock for $5 US and witnessed as a big passenger ship's transit. Two electric locomotives in front, other two at the rear end steered the maneuver. During this process an associate of the Canal Company commented on the affair in English.

After this we walked over to the lake through a nearby jungle. Did not see any monkeys unfortunately, but could hear them. Lots of crocodiles in the lake, but we saw only two tortoises.

Returned late afternoon, bought a local ice cream extravaganza – crushed ice slurry with syrup on top – not very hygienic.

While walking on the main road, a military motorcycle came and the soldier addressed us in English – it is not a safe area here, we were escorted almost to he entrance of the harbor.

Out of the ordinary, we had a chat with the other sailors on the terrace of the marina. An English couple who transit tomorrow through the canal chose the Galapagos-French Polynesia-New Zealand route as do most of the boatmen. Will wait 5-6 months in New Zealand until the hurricane season ceases, then will set sail toward Europe. Most people spend their time in the Pacific ocean during the hurricane season, this way (later) they can sail around the world more comfortably. Talked with Judit, she speaks good Hungarian, considering that she left Hungary at age 5. Their plan is to spend 5-6 months on New Zealand where Judit would like to work (easier to get a job under 30 years of age) while Graham would prepare the ship for the next voyage.

04.09.2007 (Day 198)
Was raining heavily in the morning, so we waited it out in the ship. Since fixing the motor requires the lower part of the cockpit to be lifted, and the motor doesn't like the water, it is simply impossible to repair it in the rain.

Bogi cooked platano and eggs for breakfast.

Fortunately the rain stopped early afternoon and we could go in the marina. Since the coloring system did not work, we were able to proceed virtually with the tail wind only. Roger, the dock master has left already, can not park without him. Luckily Tito was here, the man for all tasks and he called Roger. The woman clerk in the office was very passive and did not want (or was afraid) to help.

Roger instructed me through phone what spot to take and with the help of the neighboring sailors, occupied it. Very helpfully the dinghy of a ship towed Carina, this way did not have to use the motor. Yody and the deskmen of Margarita (catamaran) helped – they are going to sail the same route as I on the Pacific Ocean. Mark, the captain of Margarita brought over his diving bottle and blew through the cooling system (10 bar pressure). This fixed the problem; don't have to use the motor mechanics (Victor, Andy) who are a bit slow and very busy. Had it been the problem with the heart of the water pump (impeller, rubber "cog- wheel"), it would have been more complicated to obtain one and exchange it. The motor was originally an outside motor; the factory converted it to an inside motor. The water pump is located at the center of the motor and it would have to be completely taken apart to be able to fix it. Not sure if the pump can be exchanged on the water.

Talk with the other sailors in the afternoon on the terrace. Yody's plan is that he will charter his ship to the tourists on Bora-Bora. Recommended the use of 2182 kHz for emergency transmissions.

Talked with an American and Norwegian captain about the adjusting of the mast, that is my continuous problem due to my rig and mast are old and not perfect. Possibly they will come over tomorrow to help better setting the stationary ropes.

Translated: Pali –N6DMV.