The sailor’s sailor is dreaming of faraway horizons. (Centkiewicz).

My Yacht-log 2007.04.25 – 06.09. (Panama to Galapagos)

This Yacht-log is dedicated to Freddy (AA7UY), Gyuri (PU2KER), Laci (KB7MOV), Robi (NV9R), Károly (PY2KSZ), Pali (N6DMV), Lali (WA6YPP) and the other radio amateurs whom I stayed in daily contact with on 21,373 kHz at 23:00UTC for 40 days. (Further, to the seagulls I could talk so well with during the coffee drinkings at dawn).

Perhaps I could say that I am more familiar than anyone else in the World’s sailing community, with the stretch between Panama and Galapagos.

Not many other ships took this long to sail here. The voyage is usually 7 to 10 days, and, if very slow, then a few days more. Nowadays I’ve heard of 18 days. So this could perhaps be a record J

One last good advice to the reader: “DO NOT PANIC !”

(From: Galaxis Roadguide to Hitchhikers – Douglas Adams).

Thanks to the crew of the S/V Rotor: Géza and Éva for their help!

2007.04.25 (Day 214/1).

Got up early after 8… tired, after 5.5 hours of sleep.

I could finally assemble the Watermaker in both its configurations, even tried the hand operated version. Then adjusted the mast – not much better. Hope it can withstand the coming winds…

Radio:

16:00UTC 21.373 MHz unfortunately couldn’t hear HA5CAR AND HA8RD, and, as it turned out they couldn’t hear me either.

Then went to town to shop for 4 weeks:

3 kg onions (to last for a month)

3 kg potatoes (to last for a month)

2 kg carrots (to last for a month)

2 kg apples (to last for a month)

1 kg pears (to last for 2 weeks)

1 kg lemons (to last for 3 – 4 weeks)

3 kg bananas (green, could last for a week)

1 kg peppers (to last for a week)

2 kg tomatoes (to last for a week)

2 pcs of canned fruits

36 eggs (to last for 4 weeks)

24 wieners (to last for 4 days)

Then had lunch in town for $1.50USD, beef with rice.

I don’t know why, but the bus came 1 hour late, so I got back to Balboa with a little delay.

A little more interneting (laptop battery charging).

Departed toward Galapagos at 16:30 local time from the Balboa Marina (08-56.5N; 079-33.5W).

Target: Isla San Cristobal.

WP1: 0037.4S, 089-14W;

WP2: 00-53.3S, 089-37W – here have to look out for buoys because there’s a shoal in the middle of the entrance (therefore one must sail around it on either side).

WP3: 00-53.8S, 089-36.09W – inside the bay (Shipwreck’s Bay, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno).

Cristobal Ecuador Galapagos Province’s Administrative Headquarters. The City of Moreno got its name from an Ecuadorian President. He was the first President to visit the Islands and cared about their fate.

16:40: the engine quit suddenly at the exit of the shipping channel, where there’s a lot of ship’s traffic and the marked channel is rather narrow. Luckily I’m not in the middle, but closer to the green buoy, so there’s no danger so far. The problem was lack of fuel, it started up again with a little pumping and re-starting applied, it only took a few minutes.

Left the engine stopper open, so that I could keep checking on it continuously with the engine running. It wasn’t a good idea though: the wake of a larger vessel caused a bucketful of ropes to fall on the engine. Of course the engine stopped, now I was mid-channel about 500 meters from its end…Large vessel traffic is heavy here. Took the ropes out of the engine, then removed the V-belt. Naturally, the engine didn’t start. A case like this could do even greater damage to the engine, Hoisted sails in a few seconds, but naturally at times like this there’s no wind… Somehow I managed to get out of the middle of the channel, even helped with paddling. Luckily I didn’t disturb the movement of the large ships. The pilot boats couldn’t understand what I was up to.

Ahead of me was Islas Flamenco, in case I couldn’t start up the engine perhaps I could sail there, 1.5 nautical miles, by using the sails, dropping anchor. After 20 minutes of efforts the engine was running again. Left the channel after motoring 10 minutes. It was difficult! Ran the engine until 8 p.m. (3.5 knots toward 120 and 180 degree direction). Then sailing in force 2 north wind, making 3 knots.

Temperature: 29°C

Barometer: 1011

Water reserves: 200 liters

Fuel on hand: 62 liters.

00:00 UTC 21.373 MHz

Radioed with Freddy (AA7UY), Nevada, 4-1)

Dinner: wieners

Because there’s heavy ship traffic in the Gulf of Panama, I sleep little and with frequent interruptions, using my navigation lights too. After 21:30 – 22:30 again on watch.

Luckily there are no ships in my vicinity, they’re sailing a few miles from me (visibility good, 6 miles, sea state is 1).

I’m dozing in the cockpit after midnight (01:00 – 04:30), to have a better feel of the ship and/or the traffic. I see vessels in the distance continuously, 4 or 5 large ships visible.

2007.04.26 (Day 215/2).

Unfortunately the Ocean is full of trash here, the coast is near and you can tell it too.

I couldn’t even test my Watermaker in places like this (potable water maker).

Breakfast 6 o’clock: wiener.

By 9 the water has subsided completely, I took a short bath.

Making 0.5 knots 200°.

The sun is shining, the solar cell is charging well.

12:00 (08-05N, 079-48W)

By noon the temperature already 40°.

Lunch: oatmeal.

P.M.: escorted by dolphins, I’m not alone J

Early afternoon ran the engine for 2 hours to get sooner away from this heavy traffic area.

Wind: North, varies from Bf 0 –1 - 2.

Radio: 18:00 (23:00UTC) 21.373 MHz

Freddy AA7UY, Gyuri.

Dinner: wiener, bread, ketchup.

2007.04.27 (Day 216/3)

Many have crossed Oceans in small ships. Then they minimized the weights carried by these boats. For example: they took super light high-energy foods, minimized their water maker and everything else.

My case is different:

1. I live in this ship, this is my “house”. For me, this is not only a voyage…

Therefore I must take everything with me, repair kits (paint, varnish, polyester, epoxy, silicone etc), tools, much more clothing.

2. You can’t eat such special, super light foods over months. So I have normal foods.

Because the next stop isn’t sure (many things could happen), I carry enough food for as much as 4 months, which is a lot of extra weight (more than 100 kg).

3. Since Panama I have a Watermaker, but there’s 200 l of water in the ship’s tanks.

Because of these my ship is overloaded and slower than in a normal case. (I aim to lessen the weights in the future.)

David Blagden sailed in the 1972 Single-handed Trans-Atlantic Race in a 19-foot ship (Willing Griffin). He succeeded in 52 days (England - USA), which is very good result. He could make 90nm daily average over the North Atlantic Ocean, which is quite windy… Of course his ship was light, strong and newly built (1971) for racing. (Carina is a Lake Ship, built in 1970). He also had many kinds of new sails and had vane controlled steering. I have no wind steering, which requires a very special way of thinking.

Breakfast: wiener with ketchup, then bathing in the Ocean.

09:00: strengthening wind and rain.

10:00: stopped raining. Could’ve collected about 15 l of water but so far I have plenty.

Dolphins and large fishes jumping out of the water all day.

Lunch: wieners with ketchup.

At noon the temperature is 40°C. (Barometer 1010 all day)

Afternoon: whales in the distance, unfortunately they’re too far to photograph.

Progressing all day making 1-2 knots 230° in about Bf 1 northerly winds.

18:00 (23:00 UTC) radioed with Gyuri (Brazil 5-5).

(07-16N; 080-02W)

Dinner: wiener with ketchup.

Drinking 2 liters of water a day in general.

Stopped using lights at night from now on, because they use too much energy (20W).

Whales swam nearby at night, I was a little anxious they might bump into Carina.

Recently there were 2 such incidents around Galapagos.

2007.04.28 (Day 217/4).

Current and wind conditions from Panama to Galapagos:

1. Near the Panamanian coast about 1 knot SSW current (against me).

Further from the coast of Panama a North current (suitable for me).

For this reason at first I kept (steering) toward the west to reach the favorable current.

There’s a weak SW wind and 10% of the time completely calm!

2. Must steer toward the south with the favorable current. True, because of the SSW winds the SE course can be kept.

Around 02-03 the northerly current becomes westerly. In that area the winds are SSW 5-10 knots and total calm is rare. That’s when one must turn toward the West.

The favorable (current) that’d carry me westward helps for a short time only, because it turns to the north, and besides there’s a counter-current that’d push me back toward Columbia.

Around 84W to 86W the favorable NW current arrives which lasts until Galapagos and its speed is around 1 knot.

Here the winds are often weak, 5-10 knots SSW.

From 87W SSE winds begin to blow.

Currents are often unpredictable among the Galapagos Islands. Basically stronger than before, 2-3 knot NW. Winds are also weak in this place.

Heavy ship traffic at dawn, therefore 15-minute naps.

Breakfast and lunch: fried wiener with ketchup. This was my last wiener, it began to smell, that’s also why I fried it.

I looked at and listened to the MP3 pictures, videos and music I received from my friends. Therefore I was in a good mood all day. Thanks.

Around 11 the wind came up a little, (SSE Bf 1), then died out completely around the evening.

Afternoon: reading Galaxis Roadguide for Hitchhikers.

This was very popular during my University years. I’ve only read part 1 then, catching up now.

Radio:

18:00 21.373 MHz.

Gyuri, Károly (PY2KSZ).

Pos: (06-51N; 080-56W)

Listened to Hofi (Popular Hungarian comic/tr.) at night on the MP3 player. The hours went by fast…

2007.04.29 (Day 218/5).

A few ships in the distance (5nm) at dawn.

Breakfast: lecsó (unfortunately the tomatoes can’t take this climate).

From now on I’ll take vitamin C after every breakfast to compensate for my vitamin deficient in my eating.

A small fish has been following my ship for the last few days.

Good News: Carina has been sailing with a fixed tiller for 24 hours now. I don’t have to use the Autopilot.

Barometer: 1017

Temperature: 30-35°

Visibility: 6

Sea state: 1

Winds: S Bf.0-1

Speed: 1-1.5 knots

Course: 230-250

A few containerships passed behind me. Then swarms of flying fish flying around us,

The new sails have magic powers, sailing faster with them than with the old ones!!!

Radio: 21,373 MHz

18:00 (06-50N; 081-37W)

Gyuri, Károly (PY2KSZ)

Today is Freddy’s Birthday, but unfortunately I couldn’t contact him on the radio to wish him Happy B’day. (Actually it’s not/tr.)

Propagation was pretty bad today.

Dinner: Fried eggs.

At night: the usual lightning and cloudy sky.

2007.04.30 (Day 219/6).

A little bird landed on my ship at dawn and rested a few hours, then flew off again.

Breakfast: eggs sunny side up,

A.M.: reading.

Temperature: 30-36°

Barometer: 1016

Sea state: 1

Visibility: 6

Wind: E force 0-1

Speed: 1-1.5kts

Course: 180-210

Afternoon: listening to old broadcasts of Minimál Rádió. This was an Internet radio between 2004-2005 that we created with my friends. We were creative J

Progressing fairly slowly, so I’m contemplating on the meaning of the word “patience”. I understand it more and more. This led to the concept of time, then started thinking about that…

Radio: 18:00 21.373 MHz.

Gyuri (Brazil, 5-5)

Pos: (06-30N; 081-53W)

The sky is very cloudy, lighting strikes all night.

2007.05.01 (Day 220/7)

06:30 radio contact with Géza unsuccessful (7080 kHz LSB)

Breakfast: eggs sunny side up.

AM: variable winds and it’s raining. Dolphins and flying fish jumping around me, they like the rain.

Even the birds are visibly happy, Me: not so much.

Finished reading the Galaxis Roadguide for Hitchhikers. It was good!.

Thanks to this, I’m seeing my situation from a little different aspect.

Noontime an aircraft circling above me but didn’t call on ch.16.

Ate my last banana.

Barometer: 1010-1016

Temperature: 30-36°

Visibility: 4

Sea state: 1

Wind: SE Bf.1-2

Spd.: 2 knots

Course: 230°

Radioing 21.373 MHz

18:00 (05-49N; 081-58W)

Gyuri, Laci, Pali, Freddy

Trying 14 MHz at 02:00 UTC, unfortunately I fell asleep and didn’t radio then…

2007.05.02 (Day 221/8)

Raining all-day and there’s no wind. Everything is wet, also have a slight cold.

Breakfast: fried eggs.

Lunch: instant soup

(Got it and some other fine soups yet from a polish ship in Martinique)

Barometer: 1012-1017

Temperature: 25-28°

Visibility: 3

Sea state: 1

Wind: W to S Bf.0-1

Spd.: 1-1.5 knots

Course: 180

P.M.: dolphins entertain me again. Good company…

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (05-10N; 082-05W)

Gyuri, Freddy (AA7UY), Károly (PY2KSZ), Laci , Béla

Dinner: Pasta a la Carina with fish, eggs, carrots and garlic. In this composition I concentrated on harmony J

Raining all night. It is hard to like the rain.

2007.05.03. (Day 222/9)

Breakfast: last night’s dinner.

Morning a larger whale swam by Carina, I could even video it.

Of course it’s raining again today. Sitting in the cockpit in oilskins and keep saying that I like the rain.

Everything is wet and I have a slight cold.

Charging the batteries (lamp, camera and GPS) from the main battery.

Also fixed my diving fin that broke back in Colon.

I gave the fishes a 9-day advantage and only started to angle this afternoon (with artificial bait).

Barometer: 1012

Temperature: 30-31

Visibility: 4

Sea state: 1

Wind: W Bf.1

Spd:: 1-1.5 knots

Course: 180

Afternoon: the wind strengthening, I don’t know what’s going on, lowered the mainsail for a few hours.

Radio 21.373 MHz

18:00 (05-03N; 082-24W)

Very briefly with Gyuri because of the rain and stronger wind.

2007.05.04. (Day 223/10)

06:30 again couldn’t make contact with Géza today. (7080 kHz LSB)

Breakfast: cod liver paste, bread, onions.

Then repaired the wind generator’s base and wing fastening.

Putting things in order.

11:00 an aircraft circles above me again, then a sailing vessel passes close by me.

Dolphins and flying fish jumping about all day.

Fishing: yesterday a fish ripped my bait off, re-baited again today.

Perhaps success today…

Lunch: millets, filet of mackerel, onions with “strong Steve” (Spicy paste/tr)

Barometer: 1017-1018

Temperature: 29-31°

Visibility: 5

Sea state: 1

Wind: SW Bf.1

Spd.: 1-1.5 knots

Course: 180 (sometimes 270)

Alas the approach to my target is very slow…

Afternoon: started to make the cabin drawings. Somewhat in the style of cave drawings J

In my boredom this entertains me, today I drew mainly non-representational decorations.

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (04-51N; 082-23W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Laci 5-9 (6 element Yagi, 2-3 kW tx), Misi (VE6AGB, Canada), Gyula (N0FHP)

20:00 radio test with Freddy

Dinner: today’s lunch leftovers

2007.05.05. (Day 224/11).

Breakfast: coffee. Saw a sailboat in the distance while drinking.

I must follow the plan: steering south, then after 03°N turn west.

AM: putting things away, packing, cleaning up. (Unfortunately

there are many cockroaches in the ship). Sorting and charging batteries.

Gluing the video camera case.(This gluing lasted 3 weeks). Organizing ropes.

Lunch: leftovers from yesterday’s lunch with vegetables, pepped up with mayonnaise.

Alas, a fish ate my bait again, so I put new bait on the line.

P.M.: Checking the engine (i.e.: cleaning, changing spark plugs), transferring fuel into the main tank (I have 52 liters total)

Barometer: 1015-1017

Temperature: 28-32°

Visibility: 4

Sea state: 1

Wind: 230° Bf.1 (evening 3-4)

Spd.: 1-1.5 knots (evening 3)

Course: 150–160 (tried 300 for a short time)

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (04-03N; 082-01W)

Freddy, Gyula

Consulted with Géza (www.rotorman.hu) about suggested courses. The main question is: should I steer south? Asked the radio amateurs to relay this to Dad, who will email Géza.

Géza has 1-2 good books and much, much useful info. Perhaps he can tell me something.

A question like this will run through several days, both the question and answer passing through a number of people.

Dinner: eggs sunny side up.

Evening: the wind increasing to Bf.4, it’s raining and of course cloudy.

At night: Getting up hourly to check the course, speed, sails, ship, other ships.

The waves are already 1–2 m in strengthening winds. Naturally I didn’t reef

but am watching. Resting isn’t simple either (dozing), and I’m not used to Carina’s bobbing up and down by the waves.

Alas larger waves are arresting the ship in quartering winds, and I can’t sail so sharply.

2007.05.6. (Day 225/12)

Raining again at dawn.

Breakfast: fried flying fish (found in the cockpit in the morning), scrambled eggs.

The wind is still good today: 220-230 Bf.3-4.5. The waves are slapping in of course.

Caught a 1kg tuna in the morning. So my lunch is fish soup.

10:00 tack change (160–280/290) ß---- IN MY OPINION it would’ve been worth while to go more southerly. (Easy to be smart afterwards, then I wanted to avoid the coastal northerly current…)

12:00: (03-17N; 081-33W)

Barometer: 1017

Temperature: 29°

Caught 2 more tunafish in the afternoon, though these were smaller.

Then it’s raining again.

Radio: 21.337 MHz.

18:00 (03-18N; 081-40W)

Gyuri, Freddy, Pali, Robi.

Dinner: fried fish.

2007.05.07. (Day 226/13).

2 large ships in my vicinity at dawn.

Breakfast: fried fish with mayonnaise.

AM: flashlight battery charging, listening to MP3, reading Very Willing Griffin (David Blagden), slower going because it’s written in English and will take longer J

Later continuing the cabin sketch creation…

Lunch: Oatmeal with milk.

P.M.: started fishing again.

Got 8 miles closer to Galapagos during the past 4 days, I can’t steer too sharply because the large waves keep slowing me down and turning the ship.

Barometer: 1018

Temperature: 29-30°

Visibility: 5

Sea state: 3

Wind: 220 Bf.3-4

Spd.: 3 knots

Course: 160

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (02-42N; 081-22W)

Laci 5-5, I heard Lali but unfortunately he didn’t hear me.

Dinner: fried eggs with the last of the bread.

Headed west all night, met no other ships.

2007.05.08. (Day 227/14)

06:30 contact again unsuccessful with Geza 7080 kHz LSB.

Breakfast: rice with fruits (peaches, plums, pears, honey…)

AM: Fruitless fishing, listening to MP3 (old broadcasts of Minimál Rádió),

reading (Bible, Very Willing Griffin), then continuing with the cabin sketches.

Barometer: 1018

Temperature: 29-30

Visibility: 5

Sea state: 2

Wind: 220 Bf.2

Speed: 1.5-2 knots

Course: 270-280

Lunch: rice with fruits (peaches, plums, pears, honey…)

P.M.: cloudy skies and many-many seagulls flying around me. As usual, small fishes follow Carina.

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (02-05N; 081-50W)

Freddy (AA7UY), Gyuri, Laci, Lali, Gyula, Károly (PY2KSZ)

Dinner: rice, fish, onions, mayonnaise.

2007.05.09 (Day 228/15).

Breakfast: yesterday’s dinner

AM: slept a little, then listened to music and read the Bible. Then, bored, started to draw as well.

Checking the ship’s condition, this happens every 2 days in Carina. Sewing my sleeping bag.

Lunch: oatmeal, sunflower seeds, prunes, water with lemon.

Barometer: 1017

Temperature: 30°

Visibility: 4-5

Sea state: 2-3

Wind: 220 Bf.3-4

Spd.:1.5

Course: 210/220

Have been in a counter-current for days now, which pushes me back, eastward by 1 knot.

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (03-08N; 082-31W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Pali, Laci.

Dinner: couscous, boiled eggs, fish, onions.

I’m preparing for long sail, important to eat, drink, rest. It’s not too simple to organize these in Carina. You can do without for 1 week, but not for many-many weeks.

2007.05.10. (Day 229/16)

Great day in the ship. Celebrating Qspi’s B’day. Extra portion of rum.

Breakfast at dawn, leftovers from yesterday’s dinner.

Changing maps: put away BA1929 and took out USA21036.

AM: re-assembling fishing gear. Applied 20 factor (cream) to my face, the wind is cold but the sunshine is strong. Deceptive.

Carina continuously keeps steering herself…

Lunch: leftovers from last night’s dinner.

P.M.: Swam under the hull to check the ship’s bottom, many small fish are following Carina, unfortunately no larger ones. Heavy alga growth that also slows the ship, will start cleaning the bottom. (Shave her beard J)

Barometer: 1017

Temperature: 29-31° (the cold current cools the air as well)

Wind: 210 Bf.2-3

Spd.: 1.5-2 knots

Course: 260

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (03-09N; 083-07W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Laci, Dávid.

Dinner: meat soup with lots of pasta.

2007.05.11 (Day 230/17).

I have never computed so many vectors. Cases of current and wind directions tested with the ship’s course and speed. Alas, I didn’t get any smarter.

Today is also about PATIENCE.

Dawn, at 04:15 a large ship crossed ahead of me on a NE course, toward Panama…

06:30 tried again to radio with Geza, but it didn’t work.

Breakfast: vitamins, algopirin.

Hot asparagus soup with eggs and dried roll cubes.

As usual, slept in the cockpit and caught a little cold.

Depressing weather, no sunshine, overcast and drizzle.

Lunch: Csicseri peas (thanks to Biopont!) with sandwich spread, onions, mayonnaise.

Barometer: 1015

Temperature: 29-30

Wind: 220 Bf.2

Spd.: 1.5 - 2 knots

Course: 280-300

Radio 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (03-09N; 083-35W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Laci, Pali, Misi, Gyula

The batteries are weakening, brief radioing.

Dinner: lunch leftovers

I had many unusual and unpleasant dreams, It was raining all night, dawn and morning.

2007.05.12 (Day 231/18).

Breakfast: leftover from yesterday’s lunch.

Wind: 200 Bf.4-5

Everything is wet, the skies are cloudy and visibility is poor.

Waves slapping in.

The mood is not happy in the ship.

Spd.: 2 knots

Course: 260

Noon: winds increasing to Bf.5 also the waves are greater…I’m not reefing because it isn’t necessary, only I keep observing how the ship is behaving.

Lunch: Stuffed Cabbage a la Kúnság.

Afternoon: the first serious problem: the hole in one of the smaller side stay fitting’s hole got torn through. So that baby-stay is not holding. Temporary solution: used another fitting and secured it with ropes as well. Later I shall drill another hole in it for the turnbuckle.

15:00 the wind has weakened a little.

Barometer: 1018

Temperature: 28–29

Sea state: 3

Visibility: 3

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (03-04N; 084-08W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Károly (PY2KSZ)

At night I figured out a new way to secure the rudder, so now things are going better.

Again, I saw no ships today.

2007.05.13 (Day 232/19).

Today is Mother’s Day

Breakfast: biscuits with mayonnaise and coffee.

Tested the engine today: it didn’t start. I’ll have to look at it someday what the problem is.

Drilled a new hole into the port forward fitting, put in a shackle and re-installed the turnbuckle.

Morning shower on the bow, didn’t even have to use a bucket…

Lunch: rice, pork patties and onions.

This afternoon I noticed that the bolt holding the mast in the mast plate has loosened and the mast is tilted more backward… Noon the wind diminished some and tried to repair it. Lowered all sails and loosened the rigging so that I could shove the mast back into its normal place. Unfortunately wasn’t very successful because of the waves.

Barometer: 1018

Temperature: 29–30

Wind: 210 Bf.3-4.

Spd. 2kts

Course: 260

Caught a dorado this afternoon and a smaller tuna.

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (02-56N; 084-48W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Károly PY2KSZ, Lali WA6YPP.

Freddy told me about an accident past Galapagos. The sailboat of a Norwegian couple almost sunk, the forestay tore open the vessel’s bow and it leaked continuously. Next morning the U.S. Coast Guard rescued them.

Dinner: fried fish, rice, onions.

Made 38nm today in the right direction, that’s the best result for the last two weeks.

2007.05.14 (Day 233/20)

Sunshine, few clouds, cold wind blows.

Breakfast: fried dorado, rice, onions.

AM: reading the Bible, story of Joseph.

Fishing: caught a ½ kilo tuna early afternoon. The new bait is working, the hook and the feather.

Bailed 3dl water out of the bow compartment, which isn’t so much, I expected more because Carina cuts into greater waves in quarter wind.

Unfortunately water is leaking from the side too, this was not a problem before. Must apply new seal next island.

Interesting: I found a small squid on deck, put it into the dinner.

Lunch: fried tuna, rice, onions.

Barometer: 1018-1019

Temperature: 29 – 30°

Wind: 210 Bf.3

Spd. 1.5-2 knots

Course: 250-260

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (02-30N; 085-34W)

Freddy, Laci, Károly (PY2KSZ)

According to the received weather forecast the winds are getting more southerly (8-12 knots during the next days). I’m receiving forecast, evaluation and prognosis daily.

Furthermore: recommended courses. What I usually adhered to, but not always, because occasionally I have better ideas J

Dinner: fish soup.

Evening: many clouds and drizzle. The usual cold wind!!

2007.05.15 (Day 234/21)

3 weeks now in the Pacific.

Weak, variable winds at dawn, for this reason I set the rudder angle every 20 minutes. Wind picking up around 4, reaching Bf.4-5. The waves are increasing to 1-2 meters. My morning shower is in the cockpit: rain and slapping waves.

Morning: found a flying fish on deck. Small fishes are following Carina again.

Breakfast: fried flying fish with biscuits, onions.

Wind is weakening.

Lunch: Spelt wheat, fried dorado, onions.

Barometer: 1017

Temperature: 28-29°

Wind: 210/230 Bf.3 then slowly weakening further to 1.

Spd. from 2 dropping to 1

Course: 260-280

P.M.: caught a smaller dorado and a flying fish (latter not very customary J.

Earlier lost a tuna while pulling it from the water. Alas, this happens often.

Radio 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (02-24N; 086-19W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Laci, Károly

Freddy couldn’t hear me, propagation wasn’t good today.

The question was: how am I going to celebrate crossing the Equator?

First we’ll have to get there…I’m unable to sail south, that’s my problem!!

Dinner: lunch leftovers.

2007.05.16 (Day 235/22)

Dawn: rain.

Breakfast: last night’s dinner.

These foods do not spoil. The secret: cook them dry and must not cover.

AM: weak wind and cloudy sky. More rain possible. Yes, it’s raining already. Reading.

Lunch: sunflower seeds and energy bar.

I eat seeds often, they have a high nutritive value and contain important minerals.

Fishing all day unsuccessfully.

P.M.: wind strengthening to Bf.3-4. Then, around 8 again back to Bf.1-2 of course, the direction is always 210/230.

The sun shines at times but it’s cloudy more often, and of course rains sometimes.

I could start the engine today, but not on the first try.

Barometer: 1018-1021

Temperature: 25–29°

Visibility: 4

Sea state: 1-2-3

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (02-30N; 087-07W) still slow

Freddy (5-5), Laci (5-7)

Galapagos 227nm! I’m unable to go south, this is a growing problem.

Dinner: rice with milk.

Evening: tack changes and trying everything, but to no avail.

2007.05.17 (Day 236/23)

Morning: changing tack, perhaps this one is better. from 150 to 260/270°

Breakfast: Scrambled eggs (my eggs are gone).

Seagulls are circling constantly above me. Perhaps fish are nearby.

Started fishing. Naturally I catch nothing!

AM: sunshine with some clouds, but at least it’s a little warmer. (30°)

Lunch: Meatballs in tomato sauce.

Barometer: 1018-1021

Temperature: 27–30°

Wind: 200-220 Bf.1-2

Visibility: 5

Sea state: 1-2

P.M.: reading, listening to music, busy with setting the rudder perfectly, experimenting and am steering as well.

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (02-21N; 087-23W)

Freddy, Laci (heard me poorly)

Propagation was very bad today.

Dinner: yesterdays spelt wheat, fish, onions, garlic. The garlic is from Hungary and is still good after 8 months!!! I continually eat garlic during my voyage.

I’m seriously occupied with how I could sail toward the south. Wind directions: SW–S–SE.

Based on forecasts, I keep thinking about which course to steer, which tack to take and where to turn. It’s not easy.

2007.05.18 (Day 237/24)

06:00 tack change: 270 -> 150/120

Morning: found two flying fish in the cockpit.

Breakfast: 2 fried flying fish and yesterday’s lunch.

Progressing slowly all day. NW current slows me down. Spd: 05-1.5kts. Hardly at all, barely or even not at all going south. HORRIBLE, STANDING STILL, HOPELESS.

The engine isn’t operating. Checking, changing sparkplug. Not 100% but it runs. Will be able to maneuver with it when tying up.

Lunch: apples, prunes, lemon juice from lemon.

PM: caught fish. Two, one after another. I can easily catch fish from the swarm following Carina. Found the Method!!!

Then checked the Autopilot connection: it’s not OK. Measured less than 12V. Will clean it during the next few days. Haven’t used it since the 2^nd day (since Panama).

Problem: I’m unable to go south. Wind and current won’t let me.

Barometer: 1017-1022

Temperature: 28-30

Visibility: 5

Sea state: 1-2

Wind: 180/200 Bf.0-1.

Early afternoon Bf.2-3, then 1 again.

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (02-25N; 087-58W)

Freddy 5-3, Árpád (WA6HDD), Pali 5-5.

Question: when am I going to cross the Equator?

Answer: I don’t know.

Based on seagoing tradition when crossing the Equator for the first time, must coat the sailor with tar then roll in feathersJ Freddy told me this.

Expected wind: SE 9-10kts.

Dinner: fish with boiled potatoes.

2007.05.19 (Day 238/25)

Galaxis Roadguide for Hitchhikers:

“best drink in existence: Pangalactic Larynxpopper.

Effects: they destroy one’s brains with liquid-rich lemon slice, which is fastened to a golden plate. Based on Ó-Janx spirits of course.”

Progressing but unable to go south. Hopelessness – patience!

Sailing against northwest current in weak southerly wind. Moved to the north and east 16 nautical miles…Should get out of this current somehow. That’s is my homework! I’m already too familiar with this neighborhood.

Breakfast: last night’s dinner, peach preserves.

AM: A seagull landed on the bow to rest a few hours. Then, after some 3 hours it’s pal too has arrived. At first they fought, then made their peace.

Lunch: last night’s dinner, energy bar, peanuts (Biopont)

PM: tried to help with the engine (could’ve steered sharper and faster), alas there’s a problem with the cooling again. The plastic exhaust pipe even melted nicely…

Barometer: 1018

Temperature: 28-29°

Visibility: 5

Wind: 160/190 Bf.1

Spd: 1 knot

Course: 100-120

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (02-32N; 087-40W)

Freddy 5-5.

Wind forecast: 10-12kts S-SE

Message: Rotorman, 7 MHz in the morning.

Dinner: beer and peanuts, after all it’s Saturday Night

Then meatballs in tomato sauce.

2007.05.20 (Day 239/26)

Slept in the cockpit until 01:00, then the wind arrived. Cockpit got wet, went inside the cabin to sleep. Later bailed out 3-4 liters of seawater from the engine compartment.

This water must have come from the broken exhaust pipe.

Dawn: it’s raining. My seagull is on the ship’s bow again.

Breakfast: peanuts.

07:00 Good news: I can go toward 150.

AM: checking compartments, water level. I’ve noticed the mast leaning more backward. Started looking, it turned out the bolt through the mast step got loose, it fell out of its place, that’s why it is leaning back more, Tightened the bolt temporarily to stop it from leaning even more. Then secured it with a line, let that hold it too.

Lunch: peanut butter, biscuits, oatmeal.

PM: reading.

Barometer: 1019-1023

Temperature: 28-29°

Visibility: 5

Sea state: 2

Wind: 200 Bf.1-2-3.

Spd: 1.5-2 knots

Course: 120-150

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (02-04N; 087-27W)

Freddy 5-7

Laci, Gyuri, Károly, Árpád, Pali.

Dinner: rice, fish (mackerel). Eating fish without drink is poison!

2007.05.21 (Day 240/27)

Wind picked up at dawn, waves increasing. Raining and the skies are cloudy.

Unable to reach 2.5 knot speed because the waves stop me.

Many things are rusting in the ship i.e. my gas cooker too.

Today removed the rust from my harpoon and greased it. This is important gear for me.

Breakfast: yesterday’s dinner + peanut butter.

A.M.: wavy sea, windy weather.

Continuing to watch the mast and checking it in detail. Added two more guy ropes.

Lunch: last night’s dinner.

P.M.: checking the ship’s bottom and the engine cooling water input. Then keep cleaning it with wire. After this I drew and blew from the engine side but it didn’t help (sucked, that is J)

The cooling system is clogged and only high-pressure air would help it, like in Panama. But I have no diving bottles (10 bar). Have no pump either, only a hand pump, which I converted with a lot of work but didn’t help.

Changing the innards of the Autopilot.

Went into the water, didn’t lower sails because the speed. is about 1 knot. The bottom is full of algae, that too is contributing to the slow speed. Washed the bottom a month ago.

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (01-46N; 087-11W)

Freddy, 5-5,

Gyuri, Laci 5-5,

Pali 5-8.

Dinner: Bulgur (popular eastern food), pork patties, onions.

2007.05.22 (Day 241/28)

Using Ford’s perfect words: I need a strong drink and some good company.

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (01-32N; 087-58W)

Freddy 5-5, Károly (PY2KSZ), Laci 5-5, WA6YPP

Wind forecast: 9-17S

Dinner: yesterday’s dinner.

2007.05.23 (Day 242/29)

Started from Koper 8 months (2/3 year) ago!!

Breakfast: coffee, prunes, bio-energy bar.

Wind: 170 Bf.0-1

A.M.: electrical repairs: (12V isn’t always 12V where it should be)

blowing water into the cooling system’s outlet, maybe it’ll clean it.

Caught a fish, now trying to catch a bigger one with it’s liver. Based on Laci’s idea.

Naturally it’s not so simple, the fish tore it off, re-assembling the line…

Lunch: polish soup, got it from a polish group back in Martinique.

P.M.: caught a larger and interesting fish. I’m not familiar with it.

Resembles a shark based on skin and fins, but too small.

One must remove the shark’s skin otherwise it’ll taste bitter. They used to cook it in coconut milk.

Reading, listening to MP3 and waiting for wind.

There are more and more cockroaches in the ship. My anti-roach spray is gone, trying “mechanically” and with the OFF.

(Cockroaches are a delicacy among some natives, great nutritional value, protein….mi)

Then cleaning the ship’s bottom, this will help with speed.

The wind increasing to Bf.3 in the afternoon for a few hours. Even the wind generator is working.

Radio: 21.373 MHz. 18:00 (01-39N; 087-48W)

18:00 (01-39N; 087-48W)

Freddy: weak.

Gyuri, Laci 5-9

Wind forecast: 8-16 S-SE

An average information path: Dad – Gyuri – Laci – Me.

Easy to distort the information but relatively rare because of the repeats.

Talking with amateurs every day. Laci told me an American saying: if at first you don’t succeed, try again.

I’m already at the 10^th…

Dinner: rice, fried fish.

2007.05.24 (Day243/30)

Departed Panama 1 month ago.

Planned this trip to last four weeks, well, it didn’t work out that way.

Breakfast: last night’s dinner, raisins, fish liver oil.

After a 1-hour wake up session that consisted of reading and coffee, I started to row.

09:00-12:00 rowing.

Perhaps I can compensate for the current with rowing. Tiring. Aching all over by the end of it. Positive: that I am able to think and meditate while doing it. Exercise helps mentally.

After 12:00 blew some water into the cooling system. It didn’t help. Then cleaned the ship’s bottom. Autopilot repairs tomorrow, already pulled the specs.

The problem for the last several days:

I’m unable to move southward. Dad recommended a westerly direction yesterday, but I didn’t listen to Him. I’d rather steer east , at least the current will push me away slower (NW 1 knot).

Lunch: soup, yesterday’s dinner garlic spiced, and peach preserves.

Unfortunately had to dump the mustard, it spoiled.

P.M.: Engine cooling system repairs. Didn’t succeed with blowing today either. Then repairing seals.

Fishing. 2-3 hours of rowing. Fruit cocktail and thinking of a solution: how could I move southward.

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (01-32N; 087-27W)

Freddy: weak,

Gyuri, Laci 5-9, Robi,

Gyula (N0FHP) 5-7,

Wind forecast 8-13 S-SE.

Unfortunately my microphone perhaps has a contact problem. (I found later that my battery was so weak that the 100 W didn’t always go out).

Dinner: yesterday’s dinner beefed up with smoked kippers.

Nights: generally get up hourly (with timer) and check the ship. About 2-3 minutes are sufficient for all. Course, speed, sails, rudder, other ships around etc. Naturally I wake up on any noise, if possible I sleep in the cockpit.

From now on using candle for lighting, I don’t have enough current.

2007.05.25 Day 244/31)

Couldn’t sleep well at night but it doesn’t matter. The stars are well visible from my bunk.

This way the night watch passes better.

07:00 sunrise.

07:30 tack change (80 -> 240°)

Wind: 150 Bf.1-2

Sunshine and weak wind.

Breakfast: oatmeal. Vitamin C as usual, cod-liver oil.

But kept busy with the Autopilot.

Then I read Galaxis Roadguide for the second time. This was no longer entertaining. Then came Hofi that I’m already very tired of. Afterwards fishing, no fish today either. The fishing hook got caught in the ship’s bottom, freed it with some difficulty. Fruit cocktail (apples).

Wind weakening around noon.

Barometer: 1020-1023

Temperature: 25-26

Lunch: smoked kippers and biscuits, power soup with Strong Steve.

“The True One exists on Faith”. (HAB 2,4)

P.M.: Have a slight headache, perhaps from the sun. An Algopirin helps.

The wind’s strength and direction varies, so I often have to adjust the tiller.

My gas (cooking/tr.) is gone after 4 months.

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (01-18N; 087-34W)

Freddy, Károly (PY2KSZ),

Pali, Gyuri, Laci.

May have heard Géza too in the background. (HA5RTR/MM, sailing in S/V Rotor in this vicinity).

Evening: a sailboat in the distance.

21:00-01:00 dozed off. Didn’t wake up for the alarm and meanwhile the ship turned and drifted backward. Lost a lot!! From 01-15N to 01-18N…

2007.05.26 (Day 245/32)

There’s no wind at dawn and the NW current is taking me toward NW. This is how I used to loose the latitude accumulated during 2 days. My mood turned bad. Thinking of Genovesa instead of Cristobal. May be I can catch that.

Breakfast: oatmeal, chocolate crème (I made it).

Pulled out warm clothing. It’s cold in the evening and the wind is cold because of the cold currents. Started using bottled water today. Changed the gas bottle.

Keep adjusting the tiller continuously to maximize the speed. Difficult, the ship’s overloaded and it is a slow touring ship anyway. So now it’s a 24-hour job.

11:00-12:00 rowing.

Lunch: raisins.

12:00-15:00 rowing, compensating for the NW current.

Then cleaning the ship’s bottom for more speed. I’m unable to move south. Either 270 or 050.

Wind: 150-160 Bf.0-1 (briefly Bf.2)

Today again cleaned the ship’s bottom and the engine’s water intake opening. There is a little creature in it (caterpillar-like), unable to pick it out.

Rowing. The ship is overloaded, alas the speed doesn’t reflect the rowing.

Radio: 21.373 MHz.

18:00 (01-13N; 088-11W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Károly (PY2KSZ),

Pali, Laci

Robi relayed between Géza, HA5RTR/MM and I.

Afterward talked on 7074 kHz LSB a little.

Dinner: spaghetti with tomato sauce and grog.

20:00-22:00 rowing (extra grog). Adjusting the tiller hourly, but the wind is weakening.

At night a dolphin bounds next to me. From now on I even apportion the night candle.

2007.05.27 (Day 246/33)

Have been thinking for days now, that if I can’t reach Cristobal, then perhaps I could reach the northern islands: Genovesa, Machena, Pinta.

Theoretically sailboats can’t stop there, only in Cristobal and Santa Cruz. Because my engine isn’t OK, perhaps they’ll let me. Emergency…

Whit Sunday. Here, alone, I can experience the Holiday deeper.

06:00 tack changes (90->220->90)

Strong current. Making 1 knot 280°

Breakfast: coffee, oatmeal.

Fishing all day.

A.M.: Checking the starboard front compartment. Found some water in it. Charging the Video (it isn’t simple: have to use 3 wires for the 11V plus a special connector…). Cleaning the ship’s bottom, the speared a fish next to the ship while I was in the water.

Sunshine all day, the solar cell is charging well.

Noon: a whale in the distance.

Lunch: red lentils and sandwich spread..

P.M.: wind strengthening a little, then weakens and I started to row.

Busy all day about how to speed up the ship. Unfortunately jib and Genoa together aren’t ok. Trying to construct a bowsprit but the spar broke. Glued it with wood glue. So, only a Genoa stays up.

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (01-10N; 088-39W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Laci 5-9, Robi, Árpád (WA6HDD), 5ü1), Géza (HA5RTR)

Dinner: red lentils with fried fish. The most loathsome question: “When are you going to get there?” I don’t know!!!

Today I started to consider the Marquises, Hiva Oa Island (09-50S; 139-05W).

What happens if I don’t stop at Galapagos. 3088nm from here on course 255°. 2-3 months voyage. Controlled water usage: max. 1.5 l daily. Any ETA is uncertain when the past weeks trends are considered.

Dawn: Adjusting the sails, but hopeless, the current is taking me toward NW.

I SHALL MISS GALAPAGOS, ALMOST CERTAINLY.

At night I saw the candle’s halo for the first time.

2007.05.28 (Day 247/34)

My dream:

Some good Hungarian food for lunch, toast with hot marrow, Beef soup/Baby bean soup, tripe, breaded cauliflower, dumplings a la Somló, beer, wine, schnapps.

Program:

A.M. in Pest (Budapest/tr): visit a fine picture gallery.

P.M. St. Margaret Island

Evening: drinking a little beer with friends in a small pub in Pest.

Night: Nightclub, the louder the better.

Reality:

- The cabin’ drafts are filling my cabin. Which is good though, because at least I’m not occupied with SAILING - SHIP REPAIRS – FISHING – EATING - RADIOING, it’s a little different!! This is better than music or books. The caveman also entertained himself like this J

- The ship’s bottom is full of little barnacles that cut my hands, feet and body every time I’m cleaning it. I’m bleeding.

- Slowly my Yachtlog transforms into a book of recipes J In reality: eating is a third order thing in a ship.

1. The ship (mast, engine, autopilot, leaks…)

2. The course (currents, weak winds)

3. Comfort (eating, sleeping)

Dawn: it’s raining. Getting up hourly to check the vessel.

Morning: weak wind, cloudy sky.

Breakfast: oatmeal, coffee.

A.M.: Last lemon, last lemonade. Reading. A larger dorado swam by me I couldn’t harpoon it.

Sun came out at noon.

Lunch: long grain wheat, fried fish.

Today’s hit is popped amarant seeds.

P.M.: Cleaning the ship’s bottom, engine water intake - it didn’t help.

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (01-09N; 088-44W)

Freddy, Gyuri, Laci 5-9, Árpád (WA6HDD), Géza (HA5RTR)

Expecting weak southerly winds.

They worked out another engine cooling system. Pouring seawater from a container into the engine bypassing the impeller.

Dinner: lunch leftovers, plus fried griddle cake (with lots of parsley).

At night: a ship in the east.

Géza offered to tow me south and into Galapagos. Thought about 1-2 minutes then accepted. Géza and Éva will come toward me with Rotor. There is no emergency but it’s help that will solve my hopeless situation. Without them I’d be fighting the currents for weeks. I probably should’ve headed south earlier. It isn’t east with NW current and weak southerly winds. The 1.5-knot current could strengthen to 2.5–3 knots among the Islands, so I don’t have much of a chance in weak winds without the engine. If the wind stops then the current carries me. I would be unable to maneuver…it could easily take me out of the Islands. I am very grateful to Them!

Shipping emergencies:

- Man overboard

- Leaks

- Fire or sinking

Shipping accidents:

- Capsizing

- Running aground

- Fire (explosion)

- Collision

Signals (COLREG Rule 37)

1. Victor (I need help)

2. Cannon shots, explosion like sound every minute

3. Continuous foghorn

4. Red flares

5. SOS (…---…)

6. MAYDAY on the radio

7. “NC”

8. Flame signals

9. Red hand flare

10. Orange-yellow smoke.

After radioing the batteries lastingly fell below 12V. I’m using them for brief radioing only.

2007.05.29 (day 248/35)

Two Hungarian sailboats never sailed together in these parts. A meeting of Hungarian sailboats in the Pacific Ocean doesn’t happen too frequently either. If we examined the probability of this event, it wouldn’t be too high…

Rotor is coming to help Carina. It will be a rather interesting meet.

A memorable momentum in the annals of Hungarian sailing!!!

Rotor is coming to tow Carina. This is not a rescue, but an assistance maneuver.

The meeting of two sailboats over the open Ocean is very interesting.

Two ships very seldom meet in the Ocean because the distances are great.

The meeting of two Hungarian ships is even more rare and more interesting.

At night sleep in the cockpit. The wind is cold, but at least making progress. Dozing off with the help of a little grog.

The wind’s direction and strength frequently varies, therefore continued watch and tiller/sail setting are important.

Breakfast: yesterday’s lunch.

Morning: bailed out the front starboard compartment, it had 0.5 liter of water.

There’s good wind, finally able to make progress toward SE, even the wind generator works at times.

Afternoon the wind slowly dies out, the current carries me slowly NW.

Trying to catch a dorado, but I can’t get it together.

Lunch: yesterday’s lunch improved with amaranth, sardines with chili.

Wind 160°, Bf. 1-2

The NW current is weaker here, that’s why it doesn’t push me northward.

P.M. made chocolate cream and listened to MP3.

The air got colder, I’m cold. Coffee with rum.

Radio 21.373 MHz

18:15 (00-58N; 088-40W)

Freddy (AA7UY), Laci (KB7MOV), Géza (HG5RTR)

Dinner: couscous, fish and onions.

Cold wind at night, put on a lot of clothes (only 24° during the day).

2007.05.30 (day 249/36)

The current is not steady in this area. I.e.: near 01-09N; 88-43W it was strong.

Now 00-51N; 88-41W, the NW current is weaker.

A.M.: cloudy. Preparing to welcome Rotor, putting things in order and organizing lines.

Breakfast: yesterday’s dinner, coffee.

Alas, fishing is not successful for days now.

Dolphins swimming toward the north in the distance.

Lunch: yesterday’s dinner, peanuts and power bar.

P.m.: Cleaning the ship’s bottom for more speed.

The halyard’s cleat broke, repairs next port – I have no rivet gun.

Insulation repairs, then charging the flashlight battery.

Radio 21.373MHz

18:15 (00-39N; 088-38W)

Fred (AA7UY), Laci (KB7MOV), Pali (N6DMV), Géza (HG5RTR)

Shop’s address in Sta. Cruz

Forecast: weak southerly wind for the next days.

Dinner: peanuts and grog.

At 2 at dawn the radar reflectors lower tie down broke. Trying to fix it while standing on a weak bucket in wavy sea.

It rains a little and the wind strengthens sometimes.

Dawn program: setting direction and sails.

2007.05.31 (day 250/37)

The Genoa’s tear grew longer, unfortunately a small tear got caught in the crosstree and tore further along.

The whole thing started when the rubber line securing the tiller broke and the ship changed tack. Luckily there’s a full moon so I can see everything well.

At night called Géza at 2 and at 6 to coordinate positions and direction.

I’m not fishing because it too slows the ship down.

A curious excitement took hold of me. I haven’t seen a soul for 37 days, and now there are Hungarian friends nearby. Unfortunately I can’t see them yet. I’d like most to speak with them continuously over the VHF radio but I don’t want to disturb them.

I’m not sure how I will be able send the article in time for the June issue of Vitorlás Magazin

(Sail Mag./tr), or even how I am going to write it. The batteries are weak, sending in the PSK mode uses 40 watts for minutes. It’s hopeless, the deadline is about now.

Breakfast: soup, biscuits, fish and coffee.

Morning: after 9 the wind strengthens to Bf, 2-3. Speeded up to 2.1 kts, 160°. There must be a favorable current here.

Couldn’t move southward for a week because of strong NW current and weak S wind. On May 29^th I got out of the strong NW current, so am able to move southward for the last 3 days.

11:40 sighted Rotor sailing on my starboard. Called on the VHF to let them know. Now they see me too and start toward me. Another half an hour and we meet, and they’re circling me very closely for about 3 hours J)

Lunch: Kunsági cabbage, onions, biscuits then peanuts.

Afternoon: Bible reading, washing dishes, putting things away, resting.

Radio 21.373 MHz

18:15 (00-10N; 088-21W)

Freddy (AA7UY), Laci,(KB7MOV) Robi (NV9R), Géza (HG5RTR)

Forecast: weak southerly wind next few days.

Geza relaying because my batteries are weak.

Spoke with Géza on VHF (1W output), it was interesting when later I transmitted through

his 150W radio with my VHF signal.

Dinner: pancake-like fried salted fish and extra rum.

Now it seems that Géza sailed up north for nothing, because I slowly started moving southward. We’re sailing alongside each other. Rotor proceeding next to me with reduced sails. We don’t want to use the engine too much, only later near the harbor, or in case I couldn’t move south anymore. Truly though, the current will be stronger near the islands and towing will be necessary in the weak winds.

2007.06.01 (Day 251/38)

Wind weakening since dawn, only the westerly current carries me.

05:45 dozed off listening to Edith Piaf, so the usual 06:00 contact occurred at 06:40.

06:40 (00-03S; 088-49W). VHF conversation with Géza. The usual exchange of pos., course, spd. A little rag-chew too…

07:00 Sunrise.

Breakfast: Coffee with rum, basic Carina cookies.

Recipe: mix flour, honey and water then fry in oil.

Washing kitchen towels, cleaning rusty tools. (Everything is rusting).

Put sleeping bag and some other clothes out to dry because, as usual everything got wet from the dew at dawn.

Around noon Rotor sent me a “rescue package”, containing bread, eggs, wieners, orange, melon, paprika, tomato, cucumber and a Hungarian Newspaper! Hurrah!

Lunch: fried wiener, fried eggs, vegetables, fruit, bread. Then reading the paper J

Played Black-White-Yes-No with Géza over the VHF radio.

Then, after I lost every time we played chess.

True, I’m not a chess magician, but I did it in my head, (paper helped), he on the board.

Géza Áron

D7D5 B2B3

E7E5 G2G3

G8F6 F1G2

E4E5 G1H3

C7C5 B1A3

D5D4 C1B2

G7G6 C2C3

F8H6 Castling

D4E3 B2B4

Castling E2E3

B8C6 D2E3

A3C4

…

P.M.: Compared the two ships. Rotor moving at 4.2 knots with full sails, Carina 2.5 knots..

Raining at 17:00, heavier from 18:00

Barometer: 1024

Temperature: 23-26

Wind: 180° Bf.0-2

Spd.: 2 knots

Course: 240-250

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:15 (00-13S; 089-11W)

Freddy (AA7UY), Gyuri, Laci, Árpi, János

Pista KE8J, Ohio 5-5

Lajos N6HH, Houston, 5-5

They dictated to me how to reach the repair shop in Santa Cruz.

www.naugala.com

Also the usual weather forecast.

Full Moon tonight. Wind died out in the evening.

Dinner: fried wiener with bread and vegetables.

Evening: Géza sent out some e-mails to my Dad and Bogi that I dictated over the VHF.

2007.06.02 (Day 252/39)

Dawn: radioed on the VHF at 2 a.m. as usual.

Pos.: (00-10N; 088-38W). Presently steering 230° making 2.7 knots.

The next WP is 39 miles away at 238°.

Drinking coffee and trying to stay awake. Continuing to play chess only a little.

Breakfast: Pancake and coffee.

Pancake a la Carina (Géza’s idea): mix flour and water then fry it as is, without oil.

At 09:00 the wind dies, the current is taking me westward. Sun came out nice, at least I’m feeling good.

11:00 suddenly the portside cross-tree fell off. The stainless steel support holding it broke in half. Quick tack change, temporary repairs. Took the turnbuckle off the stay and tightened it as much as I could after lowering the cross-tree to the deck, with 2 lines wound 3-4 times round then secured it. Also insured that side with two halyards. They should hold the mast better in place. If they don’t hold well then the mast could break in high winds. Hard to sail without a mast.

A.M. Comparing notes with Géza on WPs and the plan over the VHF.

Will arrive a.m. tomorrow. Let’s get closer, mainly steering southward to minimize towing and motoring.

Noon: variable then strengthening winds. Veering from 180° Bf.0-1 to force 2-3 210°.

Lunch: Soup with dumplings and orange.

Éva’s dumpling recipe: eggs, flour, oil.

Then, afternoon trying to rest 1 hour, because it isn’t sure that I can sleep at night.

After 16:00 sewing the edge of the Genoa, there’s a record 1.5m long tear in it. Got caught in the end of the cross-tree one night and that ripped it.

Barometer: 1024

Temperature: 23-27°

Current: NW 1.5 knots

Spd.: 1-2 knots

Course: 260, then 150 (tack change at noon)

Radio: 21.373 MHz

18:00 (00-33S; 089-48W)

Freddy (AA7UY), Károly (PY2KSZ), Pista, Laci, Robi Unfortunately couldn’t hear Gyuri.

Got this msg.: Greetings from Péter Gál and the 25^th fleet. Nice of them to think of me.

Dinner: potato soup.

Evening: cold wind weakens and dies. Cloudy sky. Sails flopping back and forth, complete calm. Later raining, I sleep in the cockpit and get thoroughly soaked.

2007.06.03 (Day 253/40)

Interesting link: http://www.bluewater.de/english.htm

02:00 talk with Géza on VHF. The NW current is carrying me, there’s no wind. If we continue like this I’m not going to reach Santa Cruz, the current will carry me above the island. (Rotor) approached me, Éva threw me a heaving line to which I tied a strong, (12mm) line. Everything is wet, it’s raining. My sleeping bag, clothes, all are wet. Consoling myself with rum laced coffee. At first I secured the rudder mid-ship, then slightly to the starboard because the current would push me away. This way I’m steering on Rotor’s mirror image.

Heading 180 making 3-4 knots. In the morning Carina also hoists the Genoa after Rotor.

Speed is now 4.5 knots. Alas the weak south easterly dies out again after 20 minutes.

Seals and turtles are swimming alongside (Géza tells me on VHF what he sees J)

Meanwhile I entertain Géza with an interesting puzzle.

It is now noticeable how poor visibility is in the area. The Islands are visible for 10-15nm only.

Breakfast: coffee, pancake, bread and fried eggs with lots of vegetables.

An interesting maneuver again: Géza pulls me in then lets me go and I drop the anchor. Would be hard to correct if we picked the wrong place among all the other ships. The bow anchor is 20m of chain and 20m line. Here I’ll have to make use of a stern anchor as well, there’s no room for the ships to keep turning as the wind does. The bay is small, the ships are many.

Unfortunately it opens toward S-SE, exposed to any wind or current.

Anchored 10:30 (00-44.8S; 090-18.5W)

Good news: got word that the Canal Transit only cost $600, the extra $840 was credited back to the account. In reality the officials told me about two cases: if there was no towing, then they won’t use extra $840 and it gets refunded. Another person said though that they’ll not refund it…

Afternoon: went to the Port Captaincy with Géza and Éva. I paid dues of 78USD. A short walk in town and in a nearby National Park, then the Immigration Office opened after 3.

$30 fee bought me 20 days staying permit for Galapagos. I can’t leave Santa Cruz Island with Carina, can only move around here for 20 days. Can go anywhere with tourist boats of course… In theoretically I should’ve paid $100 more for National Park fees/dues.

They are watching this island quite closely, it is a great treasure. For this reason traveling here is strictly controlled. Sailboats generally receive a 20 day staying permit of course.

Afternoon: interneted. Fairly expensive, $2 hourly fee. Luckily I found another place where 6 hours cost $5. The other problem: it’s slow…True, I uploaded pictures from 8pm to 4 am and wrote log. The Sysop is a 23 year old university student (will be a systems engineer), whose summer job is this. He too “machined” ‘til 4 am. Then we were talking for an hourJ His other job starts at 8am. Receptionist in a nearby hotel during the day. Evenings, he drudges in the internet coffee. Usually doesn’t sleep J

I hopped into a local eatery before 8am to have something to eat, where Fate brought me together with an elderly engine mechanic. He also had fish and rice. Used to work a lot on European engines before (i.e. Czecho-Slovakian engines). He had an opinion about the 1989 regime change and it’s economical solutions. It was interesting to hear this from and Ecuadorian person…

Water-taxi cost 50 cents, $1 at night. You can not tie up at the pier with a dinghy. Must use water-taxi… Went to bed at 6am.

2007.06.04 (Day 254/41)

Waking up happened at 7:30. First with the alarm clock, then Géza called over the VHF.

Later a neighboring ship’s captain swam over for a chat. A 34 year old Australian traveling with his girlfriend and stepson heading back to Australia.

I noticed that unfortunately I’ve lost my stern anchor. A shackle secured the anchor chain and rope, though I tightened the shackle, I didn’t secure it with wire and the shackle fell out. In other words sometime I’ll have to search for anchor …

We had coffee together then he talked about how to grow marijuana. Many grow marijuana in their ships. This is customary in sailing circles, not every sailor of course…

Otherwise, the ship-repair and rigging/mast repair master with 20 years of experience J

There are no accidents. He gave me a few ideas, perhaps they’ll help me tomorrow.

Took a walk in the morning with Éva and Géza in a nearby National Park. They’re feeding the turtles this morning. This time they’re very “active”!! J Iguanas and sea turtles everywhere, very interesting. I found a nice little volcanic rock for Laci (HA8RD), there are 1 or 2 nice rocks, but there isn’t room for many in the ship.

Then I sat in a snack food restaurant and kept writing about the last 40 days events – you can never finish them. What I’m more afraid of is that I couldn’t properly relate to whatever has happened. There are those who continually search for the whys and are trying to understand life through those. I did it too, so far. Now I realize that it mustn’t be this way. One must not try to understand life, but to experience it more and more.

I tell my first event report here in the snack bar to a 7-8 year old Galapagos kid, who is very interested in the laptop and keeps looking at the pictures. This is more interesting than the autos…

Bought a few hooks and artificial fish-bait too. Met in the store with an American student, who is in the National Park all summer as a volunteer. He was a fisherman before and gave me some good advice about fishing, furthermore he me helped select hooks.

Started to look for silicone in a few stores. More expensive than in Panama. So I bought a smaller tube, but I still had some…

Mailed 6 picture postcards. I really should send to more places, but unfortunately I have no time for it. I hope I will be able to send to everybody.

Someone stopped me in the afternoon and congratulated me on being here in such a small ship. Told me about a man who came here from Panama in a 4 meter sailboat some 20 years ago.

Then I accidentally ran into Cameron with whom I talked, and he introduced me to Marcelo who can get anything here. Furthermore he knows everybody. Went for a beer in their ship with Daemon, met his wife Sharon and their child. Afterward back to town.

To buy: toothbrush, toothpaste, sugar, powdered soup, biscuits, powdered orange juice… all kinds of small necessities. For $2.5 ate soup, chicken with rice and orange juice in the town’s sleaziest place. Then followed an Internet Marathon. Slow net, slow picture uploading.

Unfortunately the pirates attacked again in Somalia: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/africa/6719091.stm

2007.06.05 (Day 255/42)

The Internet Coffee closes at 10pm. The guy took off at 11, the owner came down at 1am asking how long I wanted to stay. I told him until 4, he said 2, I said 3 and he accepted it. Left at 6am because he didn’t come back. Everybody is very honest here. No crime, not even theft. So I didn’t have to lock up the Internet Coffee.

Géza came over in the morning with Little Rotor to help searching for my anchor. The system: we combed the zone with a 4 fluked, 1-2 kg small anchor every 2 meters where the anchor could be. A local came by in a boat and the said he’ll help. He jumped in the water and found it right away. He was very kind, invited him to the ship for a beer in the afternoon.

2007.06.06 (Day 256/43)

Went with Éva and Géza to see a small island. Looked at the craters, a turtle park and a lava cave. Then back into town... With great difficulty, obtained two English language books for the next leg: Harry Potter and The Prisoner of Azkaban, The Hero Charles A. Lindbergh, The Man and the Legend.

Then we took down the mast together. Cameron came over with his tools. Removed the broken mounts and the opposite, weakened ones too. They’ll have to be welded.

We secured the step that broke off the mast with screws instead of rivets, (cut threads into the mast). Then replaced the bolt that holds the mast with a larger one, supplied by Géza, and enlarged its hole together that took several hours. Évi called us all over for lunch, that was a sensational pasta.

Afterwards looked for places that fill gas bottles and charges batteries. Perhaps tomorrow. Started shopping too: (oatmeal 1kg, biscuits 2kgs, pastas, chocolates). Unfortunately a little more expensive than Panama. Then brief Interneting for a few hours.

We were also busy with the ship in the afternoon until dusk. Meanwhile the rum bottles were getting empty one after another J

Evening: I went over to Géza to exchange pictures and videos. Éva served us a fine dinner. I was in Rotor until 11pm.

Radio:

Perhaps during the next leg I can talk with Australian radio amateurs on 14 MHz.

2007.06.07 (Day 257/44)

In the morning Romero (Naugala’s boss) came over in a boat to see how he can help. Gave him both mounts to be welded.

I left the gas bottle and the batteries (3 each 50Ah) in the shop to be filled and charged.

A.M.: I was in Turtle Bay with Géza and Éva. Saw iguanas, sea turtles and sharks. When we snorkeled with Géza a shark came fairly close too...

In town I was shopping as usual (lentils 2kgs, beans 2kgs, oatmeal 1kg, chocolate, biscuits, rum for Cameron…)

Then around 3 in the afternoon returned to Carina for ship repairs. Cameron came to help as well.

Cameron and Sharon invited me to dinner. Sharon fried some fish. Then we kept talking and drinking for a long time. They gave me 4 books, told them there’s no room for the books in the ship. According to Cameron I’m famous, but I don’t believe so. Plus, I’m occupied with the ship, not with the interested ones. (Other sailors come over frequently, like the captain of a large ship came over to my ship…) Since I have no dinghy, nor have they, I swam back to Carina around 11pm. Cameron and I frequently swim over to each other. True, Géza loans us Little Rotor quite often.

2007.06.08 (Day 258/45)

A.M.: went to pick up the gas bottle and batteries. Then worked on the ship with Cameron all day. Meanwhile we kept drinking coffee with rum J The sun shone all day and of course I forgot all about lunch and dinner. The mast is OK now.

Unfortunately the engine didn’t improve, even with the diving bottle loaned by Géza. The high-pressure air couldn’t clean out the cooling system. Tomorrow I’ll fabricate an external cooling system.

Evening: Éva and Géza invited me and a young Dutch couple for dinner (it was fried fish very well made). The young, 28 year old Dutch couple left Holland Aug 2006 and are planning to circumnavigate the Earth. Their ship is a 32 foot, 26 year old steel vessel that I think is in good shape.

Went to town around 9pm for Interneting and picture uploading. I was there until 3am.

Sometimes I also have lunch in town. Prices: 3dl orange juice, soup, rice and fish/chicken/beef can be had for $2.50. There are cheap local eateries that Marcelo (a local, alcoholic businessman) shows me all the time.

This would cost $4 in a more elegant, tourist place (the service is cleaner of course).

I have discovered that most tourists are seeking the places mentioned in tour guides.

And they’ll see everything that „must be seen”. As for me, I’m more interested in people, the locals, and other sailors/travelers, anybody interests me more than a beautiful mountain…Of course to each his own, i.e. I mingled with the locals even in Morocco instead of walking the roads to the usual tourist attractions. For me, those are „boring”.

Rather make questionable deals with questionable people in murky places and a little excitement. Or losening up completely and keep piping a little with them.

A Traveler, who has traveled for months and years already and yet will travel. The pro traveler has been traveling for at least 1-2 years. Generally a max. 20 – 40 year old man. Of course there are a few women travelers, and a few older ones too. They carry maximum 2 suitcases. There are several categories, these are the main ones:

1. Child of rich parents, for whom money is no problem and just keeps traveling to see the world. Generally coming from western Europe or the USA. Spends a few years like this before, after or during University years. They’re terribly boring or sometimes even dangerous, because they’re into everything. They use a lot of drugs and keep living it up.

1. In their 30s or 40s who loosen up for a few years after 10 years of work. Looking for excitement, but are able to keep within the limits. One can converse with them well. Only there is no future for them. They don’t even know what it should be.

2. The eternal youths between 20 and 60. They have no money, they work for a few months and take off again. Interesting personalities. They turn up everywhere and take on any kind of work from fishing to drug smuggling. They adapt well and quickly. They’re the absolute survivors! Personally, I get along best with the 3^rd group.

2007.06.09 (Day 259/46)

For me the greatest recognition is when I get a nice e-mail from a sailor. The only better thing is when they want to baptize me seaman style, True, Hungary has no seagoing ships, but we have a few seamen. I wanted to be a seaman too, but in 1998 we already had no more seagoing ships, nor training…

Slept in a little in the morning, could only get up at 7:40. Swam over to Timella to help Cameron during the morning. He has problems with his diesel engine. Today is Sharon’s B’day, so there’s great celebrationJ

Went to town at noon. It’s very hot, can’t keep working. I must rest! Lunched for $2. Beef soup, rice with chicken and orange juice.

While waiting for the boss at the diving club some young, 5 year old girls surround me and keep tugging at my beard. I told them I was Santa Claus. Funny.

I’m going to scubadive with Iguana Diving Club tomorrow (I didn’t submerge for two years).

They come to Carina at 7am to pick me up. 2 dives at Golden Rock, which is the best place here. We return by 3pm.

There they introduced me to a japanese Yamaha mechanic to whom I told my problem, then we went to Carina where I showed him the engine. Unfortunately he’s going back to Ecuador tomorrow morning, but he introduced me to another mechanic who can perhaps repair the engine on Monday. I’ll have to lift the ship out of the water. I can’t yet see how, but perhaps the tide could help J To lift the ship out of the water you must have a special permit from the Port Captaincy. In my case it’ll be lifted at the Iguana Diving Club, a private place, no permit necessary.

I became a Godfather today No, don’t think ot it as in an underworld role. Two charming little girls, Flóra and Sára, Bogi’s girlfriend’s, Ildi’s daughters were re-born in Baptism. I knew Flóra, she also attended Carina’s blessing, Sára was born during my voyage. Bogi was the Godmother, Dad stood in for me in my absence. Tata was there too. Father János held the ceremony, so that Flóra discernibly understood what is happening with them. Sára also observed the event quietly with great interest. I promise to be a conscientious Godfather, will do everything to have my goddaughters brought up as good Christians.

Translation by Laszlo AA7UY