My Yacht Log from 2007 June 17 to August 16 

from Galapagos to the Marquesas

 

 

 

"In the beginning they could not understand my insistence on getting away from the compass, that god of the West. But in exchange, they began to hear the why and sea talking with the boat. And when blue-tinted land appeared on the horizon, looking as it did to the mariners of old, all nimbed with mystery, a few of them felt that our rigorous techniques should leave a door open to those gods which the modern world tries so hard to exclude."

Bernard Moitessier, 'The Long Way'

 

The History of 52 Days

 

I devote this log to my  father, István Méder, who is helping me with his creative ideas throughout my voyage (in connection with the boat repair), furthermore, he is constantly checking the weather forecasts and sends the information to me through Radio Amateurs.

 

Thanks to Freddy (AA7UY), with whom I talked on the radio daily, even though lately only shortly due to my batteries being weak - despite, almost all the time he was able to receive my position. If he could not, the others were there: Robi, Pali, and many others. Thanks to the whole team!

 

 

2007, June 17 (Day 267)

 

In the evening after interneting, talked with the system-boss, then went to the Limón Café where I met with the other sailors.

 

For instance, a Bulgarian ship is here: Magnolia, started out from Varna more than 2 years ago. The Captain (about 30) built the ship for 6 years with his girlfriend and his friend.

 

A twenty-six year old Swede couple sailing with a 28-foot ship. They started out in 2006 through the shorter route, on the Kiel channel. Their internet site is: www.sy-donquijote.com, because the ship name is Don Quijote. They had the same advisor through the Panama Canal then I had, so they have heard about me :)

 

Got acquainted with a long-bearded Captain, who is completing a boat transfer to Australia. Talked to the owner, he bought the ship on the e-bay.

 

Went back to Carina after 11 p.m. – there will be a big day tomorrow: I WILL START OUT.  Before returning, bought 10 gallons gasoline for 20 USD from a local, an acquaintance of my dive master. Then I said good-bye to everyone.

 

2007, June 18 (Day 268/1)   (Started out 268 days ago, the first day of this part).

 

Repaired the steering stabilizer in the morning due to a broken bolt, then went to town with Cameron. Bought silicon grease and a dispenser gun for it (the one I had in Gibraltar got rusted and broke anyway). Then together with Cameron we went to retrieve the wind-steering pole (it was bent, he had it fixed). Checked out from the Immigration Office, then breakfast together  - it was a bit cheaper than in Hungary.

 

Purchased:

10 pieces of bread,

2 kilograms hot dogs,

vegetables,

bunch of bananas for 5 USD.

 

Last lunch: special soup with fried platano, then: to the harbor!

 

For me, this was Galapagos.  13:00 hours: start with motor (Bahia Academy).  After starting, put things in order: paperwork, money, everyting.

 

The 2 kilograms of beef I bought, palced in vinegar, will put it out tomorrow to dry.  Sharon (Cameron's wife) gave me the idea.

 

Snacktime: bagette with raw hot dog and mustard, then celebrated the start with rum-and-cocacola.

 

Afternoon: seagulls, pelicans, flying fish and sharks entertained me. Then – as usual – rain, and I got wet.

 

Plan: circumnavigate Isla Santa Maria from the West, avoiding the current if possible. Besides, stay away from Isla Isabella as far as possible because of the surrounding rocks – now have to navigate carefully.

 

Evening: windstill.

 

Heard Freddy at 17:00 hours on 14.287 MHz, but very badly, went to 21.373: Freddy (5-5). Talked shortly with Laci, Robi and Árpi, but did not hear Gyuri;

Position: 00-58S, 090-22W;

Weather forecast: 5 knots S-SE for 2 days, 10 knots S-SE thereafter;

Temperature: 27-29 degrees, Barometer; 1017-1018, visibility: 4-5, Sea condition: 0-1;

Direction: 190 – 240 – 210,  speed: 2.5 – 4 knots;

Wind: Bf.1; direction: 150-160,  current: NW 1.5 knots;

Current: NW 1,5 knots.

 

Used the motor a lot – used up 20 liters in 9 hours, a tankful.

19:30 – 21:30:  a short rest, dozing off  -  21:30: stop motor.

 

2007 June 19 (Day 269/2)

 

Fishing in the Pacific Ocean – drag the damyl with several hooks at the end.  Expected catch: tuna, wahoo, mackerel, mahi-mahi, flying fish.

 

Procedure in a tropical climate: salting or curing in vinegar (for example with onion), can be made edible for several weeks dried :)  The sailors are storing it in bottles – although it is breakable. Can be made edible for months if cooked in a pressure-cooker, then placed in a hermetic container. (I don't know of a more comprehensive recipe :(

Drying: either suspended, or on decktop – if salt is removed first. Before drying, however, can be salted or spreading soypaste on it.

 

In shore proximity, it is not advisable to dry on deck because of the flies – they deposit their eggs and it will be a bitter fish.  Can be soaked in lemon juice for 8 hours (or more). Will taste like cooked cold lemon fish.  Tried it and liked it.

 

The flying fish is somewhat bony, but it tastes great – my typical breakfast on the boat. One can try this far away from the ocean in the city too, but it is hard to find flying fish there :(

 

Got a book from Timella on Galapagos: STAG (Tim Relf). It is customary for sailors to give books to each other, especially between solo sailors. Sometimes the sailors arrange a book exchange affair, in the cities/harbors there is a possibility of a book exchange.  Frequently they press the stamp of the ship’s name in the books, my book has Timella’s and the previous owner’s too: Nadezha.  Some even have business cards – of course, I don’t have any :(

 

06:00:  01-42S, 090-51W. 20 liter fuel transfer to the main tank – enough for 8-9 hours.

With some wind I can sail to 200 at 2 knots. 7 in the morning met with a small fishing boat – must avoid their buoys, but at least it is easier during daylight. Had to use the motor again for the maneuver.

 

Breakfast: hot dog, mustard, baguette, shortbread, cola.

 

Later started reading the ’Pacific Crossing Guide’ I got from Cameron on Galapagos – it is a Xerox copy.

 

08:00 – motor off.

 

Caught a 2 kg tunafish – parts of it put on the deck for drying.

 

Morning: mp3 listening, relaxing, because did not sleep a lot overnight. Put out the beef to dry after a 24-hour soaking. I do the same with the fish meat and with the sausages.....

 

Lunch: Hot dog, mustard, bread.

 

12:00 – 13:00 – sailing.

 

Afternoon: cant’t see the islands already. Packing, reading. A ship in the distance. Then a whale next to me.

 

16:30: motor off.

 

Radioing:

17:00 – 21.373 MHz - Freddy (5-5), Robi (5-9), Pali (3-5), Laci (5-5);

Position: 02-14S, 091-09W;

Wind: 20-23, increasing, SE, 8-15 knots, 135-157;

Temperature: 28-29 degrees C;

Bar.: 1018-1020;

Visibility: 4;

Sea condition: 0-1;

Speed: 2-3-4 knots, direction: 180-210;

Current: NW 1.5 knots;

Wind: Bf.0-1, direction: 140-150;

Water: 300 liters;

Fuel: 110 liters at start, mixed with 20 l oil. (No idea what kind of oil was put in by the seller...)

 

2007, June 20 (Day 270/3)

 

Coconut can be found everywhere around here, generally one should ask if it is OK to pick them, sofar it was free. Since in windy days the coconuts are falling from the trees, it is dangerous to stay in close proximity to the trees :)  The green, sweet coconut juice is tasty and is popular. The white meat of the ripe nuts is very good, usually they grade it. The coconut milk is made from the graded nut, if let it stay overnight, then the cream rises.

 

A lot of uninhabited islands are in this neighborhood with some very beautiful palm trees. There was a comfortable wind overnight, sailed in quarterwind to 200.  Saw a ship in the distance at midnight.

 

Morning: coke with rum, hot dog, mustard and bread.

 

Some lemons started to rot unfortunately due to the improper packing. Going to soak the fish caught yesterday in lemon juice.

 

Morning: fishing, reading – The Hero (the life of Charles A. Lindbergh), then relaxing and sleeping because did not sleep enough last night.

 

Lunch: hot dog, mustard, onions, bread (must eat the hot dogs, have no refrigerator, they can be eaten only for a few days.)

 

Afternoon: reading and planning the next days and nights – relaxing.

 

Temperature: 25 degrees C;

Bar: 1019-1021;

Visibility: 5;

Wind direction: 140-150, Bf.2-3 in the morning, Bf. 3-4 in the afternoon;

Sea condition: 1-2-3-4;

Current: NW 1.5 knots;

Speed: 2-3.5 knots to direction 200-210.

 

Radio:

17:00 21.373 MHz - Freddy (5-5), Robi (5-9), Károly (PY2KSZ);

21:00 on 21.373 MHz was bad, then on 14.287 MHz had an S7 noise, but could hear me OK;

Position: 03-14S, 91-44W;

Weather info: until the 23rd 12-16 S-SE.

 

Dinner: after 21:00 - the usual, same as lunch.

 

2007, June 21 (Day 271/4)

 

Potable water: the reliable sweet water is important. For instance, the faucet water on Galapagos was undrinkable – had 25% salt in it.

 

The water on Hiva Oa and Nuku Hiva is drinkable (Daniel Bay is famous for the good taste, but can not be had in every harbor.  Tonga, Fiji, the Salamon Islands have no water problem (but it is not advisable to drink after a big rain.)

 

Had a quiet night, stable, fast progress. Unfortunately my left sail stiffener broke at 3 in the morning, at the mast-side near the bottom - had a Bf.5 wind. Is made of aluminum, already got bent on the Carib Sea. Straighteneed it, but lost strength and broke. It is a problem because it is part of the mast stiffening.

 

Dismounted the Genoa, then pulled a reserve line as side stiffener. Got thinking of the repair, it is a difficult affair.....

 

Decision: WILL NOT TURN AROUND.

Reason: Most likely the boat can be maneuvered in a Bf. 4-5 wind, unlikely that stronger wind comes up for a long period.

 

Therefore everything will be harder, but must continue – more attention to ships....

 

Breakfast: the usual – hot dog, mustard, onion, and bread.  Don’t have much apetite.

 

From 7:30 at 260 sailing with autopilot.

 

7:30-8:30 motor, storm fokk – don’t want to overload the mast.

 

Lunch: made some cookies.

 

Water comes in constantly into the cockpit, everything is wet. Covered the autopilot from water.

Noticed that the water enters at the repaired left guard rail – the situation is not dangerous yet.

 

Temperature: 25-27 degrees C;

Bar: 1022;

Visibility: 4;

Sea condition: 4;

Current: NW at 1 knot;

Wind: Bf.4 (sometimes 5), direction: 150-160;

Speed: 3-4 knots, direction: 210-160;

Useed the motor for only one hour.

 

Radio:

17:00 21.373 MHz - Freddy did not hear me, but Robi relayed – shortly informed them of the problem;

Position: 03-39S, 09-47W.

 

Dinner: fish, hot dog, rice, onion, picante sauce from South America.

 

Guided the boat from 6 in the evening to 4:30.  Dolfins accompanied and entertained me, then a few mahi-mahi. The luminous planktons indicated their track under the water.

 

2007, June 22 (Day 272/5)

Last night the gasoline tank overturned and spilled some fuel due the big waves, Carina was tossed back-and-forth.

 

Woke up at midday, checked out the boat. The wind weakened, no problem.

 

Sleeping with the watertight blanket, it was cold and did not have the strength to undress.

 

12:00 breakfast: the last night’s dinner and shortbread.

 

Removed 2-3 liter water from the motor compartment.

 

Afternoon: sleeping, mp3 listening.

 

The sky is cloudy, rain starts sometimes....

 

Temperature: 25-30 degrees C;

Bar.: 1019-1022;

Visibility: 5;

Sea condition: 2-3;

Wind: Bf.3-4, direction: 160;

Speed: 3-4 knots, direction: 260;

Made 104 nautical miles in 24 hours in the right direction: Pacific Ocean record!!

 

18:00 Lunch: yesterday’s dinner with mayonnaise

 

Radio:

17:00 21.373 MHz - Feddy, Robi and Géza (www.rotorman.hu);

Position: 04-02S; 94-31W;

Weather: til 27: 12-18 knots S-SE wind.

 

Géza suggested that I should keep an approximate 4-30S until 116W and only after this should I start toward South, because the current is better and the waves are smaller here.

 

Dad suggested to pull the leftside stiffener back and handle it as a backstay.

 

Guiding the boat from 18:00 to 6 in the morning.

 

At 23:00 a ship passed me about 5 nautical miles away.

 

2007, June 23 (Day 273/6)

 

Temp: 26-29 deg. C;

Bar: 1018-1022;

Sea condition: 3;

Wind: Bf.3, dir. 140;

Speed: 3-4 knots in direction of  230.

 

Went to bed after 6, got up at 11.

 

12:00 breakfast: couscous fish, hot dog, onion with tomatoes (ran out of hot dogs.)

 

Afternoon: sleeping, relaxing, reading

 

Had to fix the autopilot’s assembly on the steering rod.

 

17:00 Radio:

21.373 MHz, Robi (5-5);

Position: 04-26S; 96-03W.

 

18:00: lunch - leftover from breakfast with banana.

 

Attempt to get used to the night navigation and to daylight sleeping. It is difficult, the temperature in the cabin around 12 is very hot and is difficult to sleep.

Explanation: if sleeping in daytime, I use the autopilot when the sunrays are continuously charging the batteries.

 

02:00 dinner: breakfast leftovers.

 

2007, June 24 (Day 274/7)

 

Temp.: 26-30 degrees C;

Bar.: 1018-1020;

Wind: Bf.2-3; direction: 150;

Speed: 3-3,5 knots;

 

Sleep: 06:00-12:00.

 

Breakfast: banana.

 

Relaxing, reading, mp3 listening:  12:00 - 14:00.

 

Sidebrace adjustment: 16:00.

 

Motor checkout, charging: 16:30-17:00.

 

Lunch: lunch from yesterday.

 

Tiring rithm, caffein tablets – the coffe helps somewhat.

 

Due to the limited capacity of my battery, can use the autopilot only sparingly, have to schedule every minute – see above.

 

Afternoon: a shark is following me.

 

Dinner: bread, sausage, mustard, onion.

 

17:00 radio:

21,373 MHz – Feddy (AA7UY), Robi (NV9R), Cameron (Timelláról), Robi relayed because the reception was bad, could hardly hear them;

Position: 04-36S; 97-34W;

Traveled 91 nautical miles in the previous 24 hours in the right direction.

 

Message: tomorrow is Dad’s birthday – Happy Birthday!!

 

Radio test with Freddy at 04UTC on 14.287 MHz – very faint signal.

 

Fish banging agaist my steering over night – I am concerned.

 

2007, June 25 (Day 275/8)

 

It’s Dad’s birthday.

 

Temp.: 26-28 deg. C;

Bar.: 1018;

Sea condition: 3-4;

Wind: Bf.3-4 from 150;

Speed: 3-3,5 knots to 260, afternoon to 330.

 

The wind generator won’t start, don’t know why? May have to disassemble and lubricate it.

 

At 14:00: breakfast – bananas and soup. The bananas are getting very ripe.

 

Radio:

17:00 21.373 MHz - Feddy, Laci, Károly, Gyuri, Robi;

Position: 04-33S; 098-43W.

 

18:00: lunch – soup.

 

Dinner: fried flying fish and scrambled eggs.

 

The flying fish are jumping at night, sometimes hitting my nape, once hitting my head.

The night was quiet. Sometimes, as usual, rain and strengthening wind. The sky is quite cloudy.....

 

2007, June 26 (Day 276/9)

 

Temp.: 26-28 deg. C;

Bar.: 1018;

Wind: 3-2Bf. from 150;

Speed.: 2,5-3 knots;

My direction: 260-270.

 

Going to sleep at 7  in the morning, the boom socket is squeeking – it will break.

 

Get up at 16:00 finally – after many bad dreams.

 

Breakfast: banana at 16:00.

 

Radio:

17:00 21.373 MHz - Gyuri (5-5), Cameron (Timella: 2 degrees behind me);

Pos.: 4-42S; 99-49W.

 

Lunch at 18:00 -  fresh fish, bread, pepper, tomatoes, onion.

 

Navigating the whole night, the autopilot is working during the day when the soolar cells are charging.

 

2007, June 27 (Day 277/10)

 

Temp.: 26-30 degrees C;

Bar.: 1018;

Wind: Bf.0-1 from 150;

Speed: 2-2,5 knots;

Direction: 270-280.

 

Consumed some soup at 3 in the morning – I was very tired. Set the autopilot at 4.  Had no energy to continue.

 

Got up at 10.

 

11 - breakfast: lots of bananas, they are getting very ripe. Impossible to relax, the sail is slapping me.

 

Trying to butterfly in about 1 meter waves in weak wind.

 

Lunch: soup, rice with beef, cucumber, tomatoes, onion, mayonnaise.

 

Reading – thinking...

 

Cheching the mast – tighten more the left-side stiffener, making order.

 

Remove the water from the motor compartment.

 

Motoring: 16:00 – 18:00 (unfortunately the solar cells are not enough to charge the battery.)

 

Radio:

17:00 21.373 MHz - Robi 5-7;

Pos.: 04-26S; 100-45W;

Weather forcast: 12-14 knots at E-SE.

 

Dinner at 24:00, leftover lunch.

 

2007, June 28 (Day 278/11)

 

Temp.: 26-30 degrees C;

Bar.: 1018;

Wind: 0-1Bf. from 150;

Sea condition: 1;

Speed.: 2-2,5 knots;

Direction: 280-290.

 

Beakfast at 6, leftovers from yesyterday, banana.

 

06:00 -12:00: navigating.

 

3 rivets broke on the boom, one almost, holding now only 2 rivets and screws. Repaired with ropes and wires.

 

1-2 mahi-mahi follows me, but not close enough to shoot them – are too far away.

 

Connected the HF radio to the reserve battery, unfortunately it uses a lot of energy and the batteries are getting low. According to my experience, the reserve battery can supply power to the radio for about 40 hours.

 

Lunch at 12 – leftovers from yesterday, banana.

 

Continuiously changing the navigating cycles, 12 hours at times, but usually 6 hours, then relaxing for 6.

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz - Feddy (5-5), Robi (5-9), (03UTC 14.287 MHz is the sdubstitute frequency);

Position: 04-22S; 102-00W;

Completed 73 nm in the past 24 hours.

 

Dinner: eggs with potatoes, vegetables.

 

Shot a 5-6 kg mahi-mahi at midnight.

 

2007, June 29 (Day 279/12)

 

Temp.: 26-30 degrees C;

Bar.: 1018-1019;

Sea condition: 1-2-3;

Wind: 2-3-4Bf. from 120-130;

Speed: 2-3 knots;

My direction: 280-300.

 

06:00 - 12:00: navigating. The sun is out, feeling great. Strengthening wind to Bf.4, butterflying.

 

12:00: breakfast – fried fish and boiled potatoes.

 

 Ran out of bread - did not want to bring more, could not preserve it, have no room on the boat. To preserve:  put the slices out to the sun.

 

Afternoon: Motor check (started very slowly.)

 

Genoa sewing, tore up at 2 places in the weak wind (but the new fokk is smaller, it counts in weak wind!)

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz - Robi (5-9), heard Laci too;

Pos.: 04-21S; 103-02W;

Weather forcast: 11-15 knots, SE.

 

18:00: lunch – leftovers from breakfast.

 

Shot a mahi-mahi at evening but got away from my harpoon.

 

Night: weak wind, quiet waters.

 

2007, June 30 (Day 280/13)

 

Temp.: 26-34 deg. C;

Bar: 1018;

sea condition: 3;

Wind: Bf.1 at daybreak, then Bf.2-3, direction: 130-140;

Speed: 2-3,5 knots;

My direction: 260-270.

 

Admire the fight between the fish (flying fish and mahi-mahi) and between the birds.

 

Breakfast at 12: buck wheat, fried fish, onion.

 

Afternoon: relaxing, Genoa sewing.

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz;

Pos.: 04-21S; 104-06W.

 

Lunch at 18:00, leftovers from breakfast.

 

At midnight: breakfast leftovers and beef.

 

Was tired, so went to sleep earlier today, slept to 6 in the morning.

 

Fullmoon.

 

2007, July 1 (Day 281/14)

 

Temp.: 25-35 deg. C;

Bar.: 1017-1020;

Visibility: 4-5;

Sea condition: 2-3;

Wind: Bf.3-4 (evening: Bf.5 gusts) direction: 140-150;

Speed: 3,5-4 knots;

My direction: 260;

Navigating: 6-12.

 

Sunshine, feeling good. Hardly any clouds in the sky. Entertained by the war between  the mahi-mahi and flying fish.

 

11:00: breakfast, the leftovers fom yesterday.

 

4 flying fish on deck in the morning as usual (true, thre are bigger ones too) – fresh meat! Fine lunch :)                            

 

Packing and cooking.

 

14:00: lunch – fried potatoes, fried fish, banana, and made cookies (sugar, flour, egg, water).

 

Afternoon: motor check, mp3 player charging, fishing gear packing – easier to shoot the fish.

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz – heard Freddy (weakly) and Robi (5-5);

Pos.: 04-30S; 105-43W;

Made 97 nm in the past 24 hours;

Weather: 12-14 SE.

 

Started to think about the hurricane season -  how could I sail more toward West...

 

2007, July 2 (Day 282/15)

 

Temp.: 25-35 deg. C;

Bar.: 1018;

Sea condition: 3-4;

Wind: Bf.3, Bf.4. int the evening, direction: 130;

Speed.: 3-4 knots;

My direction: 260.

 

Sleeping til 6, getting up occasionally to check the boat especially when the wind is getting stronger.

 

Breakfast: tomato-asparagus souce over half kilogram dough, onion, beef and mahi-mahi.

 

Ran out of bananas today unfortunately and the coffe is getting scarse too (because drunk 2 cups per day).

 

Navigating till 12 with full sails. Raining occasionally.

 

Afternoon: resting and relaxing.

 

The local storms are quite frequent. They can last from a few minutes to 1-2 hours.

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz;

Position: 4-48S; 107-28W;

New Pacific Ocean record: made 106 nm in the right direction in 24 hours!!! (Got this much closer to my goal.);

Weather: 12-14 SE. The wind is intensifying in the evening.

 

24:00: dinner, leftover from breakfast.

 

2007, July 3 (Day 283/16)

 

Temp.: 26-35 deg. C;

Bar.: 1017;

Sea condition: 2-3;

Wind: Bf. 4 in the morning, then weakens to Bf.2-3, later to Bf.2;

Speed: 2-3 knots;

My direction: 290;

Buttrflying from 06:00 in the morning.

 

Cooking is difficult due to the big waves.

 

12:00: breakfast – soup, rice with and mahi-mahi, beef, onion.

 

Afternoon: the motor strted now, but didn’t at the morning checkout – don’t understand why? What could be the problem?

 

Bailed out 1-2 liter water again from the motor compartment.

 

Took a shower at the boat front with a pale – the first one since starting. Will shower more frequently from now on – feels very good.

 

Continuous storms the whole day with increasing waves.

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz – Robi (5-5);

Pos.: 4-44S; 108-41W;

Completed 71 nm during the past 24 hours;

Weather: 12-14 SE (with storms);

Wind drops to Bf.1 at evening.

 

2007, July 4 (Day 284/17)

 

Temp.: 26-35 deg. C;

Bar.: 1016;

Sea condition: 1-2;

Wind: Bf.0-1, direction: 120-130;

Speed:1-1,5 knots;

My direction: 270 or. 300.

 

Started raining at dawn, visibility is bad til 7.

 

Morning: weak wind, then windstill. The waves are tossing the ship, the boom is fluttering...

 

Few mahi-mahies swim next to the boat.

 

Breakfast at 11, leftover from yesterday with picante sauce, apple.

 

Going to sleep, am tired. Resting and reading a little – collecting strength.

 

Lunch at 17:00, soup.

 

Problems:

1. Weak mast (the end of the broken stiffener damaged the sail);

2.  Weak battery (can not use the autopilot);

Fuel is depleting, can not use the motor to charge the battery;

The wind generator is not working (generally have not enough wind).

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz - Feddy (5-5) - can hear Feddy every day;

Weather info: 13-15 SE;

Pos.: 04-35S; 109-26W;

42 nm in 24 hours  - negatíve record.

 

Dinner at 24:00: filled cabbage á la Kúnság with meatballs (canned), biscuit – a little Hungarian meal :)

 

Wind intensifies to Bf.2 after midnight...

 

2007, July 5 (Day 285/18)

 

Temp.: 26-34 deg. C;

Bar.: 1016;

Windl: Bf.4-5, direction: 120;

Speed: 3,5-4 knots, my direction: 270;

Sea condition: 3-4.

 

The right-side small front stiffener’s aluminum fixture broke at early morning at 01:00, temporarily repaired it with rope.

 

Navigating between 06:00 and12:00.

 

Sunshine, comfortable wind, no clouds in the sky.

 

14:00: breakfast – chicken soup (instant soup from Equador). 

 

Drilled a hole into the broken fixture in the afternoon similarly to on the way to Galapagos. Must hold for 1800 nautical miles!! Cleaned  the side of the boat as much as I could – grew a beard – it is difficult due to the waves.

 

 Lubricating the drill (did the last time in December on the Cape Verde Islands).

 

The rope holding up the dipole antenna broke – the wind generator broke it, at least that works. The bumlift helped to raise the antenna. Will fix this in the next harbor...

 

Lunch: coconut, mahi-mahi, onion.

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz;

Pos.: 04-30S; 110-36W;

Progress in the past 24 hours: 67 nm.

 

Dinner: lunch lefovers at 23:00.

 

Showers and increasing winds in the evening.

 

2007, July 6 (Day 286/19)

 

Temp.: 26-35 deg. C;

Bar.: 1013;

Sea condition: 3-4;

Wind: Bf.4-5, direction: 90-120;

Speed: 3,5-4 knots;

My direction: 250 or 260;

In Eastrly winds, can not go to 270, only to 300 or 240.

 

Current here is generally 1 knot Westerly.

 

Breakfast at 11: leftovers from yesterday.

 

Lunch: coffee, chocolate.

 

Afternoon: motor checkout for 30 minutes (every 3 days).

 

Motor compartment water removal, Genoa sewing.

 

The target seems very far away, the chores are monotonous, is very tiring.

 

Got thinking, what would they say if I would sned my recepies to the Recepy Club :) - most likely they would not understand my jokes :))

 

Radio:

17:30 21373 MHz - Feddy (5-2);

Pos.: 04-36S; 112-02W;

Did 86 nm in the past 24 hours.

 

Weather forcast: 15 knots S-SE, later intensifying.

 

24:00: dinner – vegetables – filet (can), onion, biscuits.

 

2007, July 7 (Day 287/20)

 

Temp.: 26-35 deg. C;

Bar.: 1016;

Sea condition: 3-4;

Wind: Bf.3-4-5, direction: E;

Speed: 2,5-3 knots (the boat grew a beard, can not go over 4 knots for long);

My direction: 240 or 300.

 

06:00-12:00: navigating the ship, coffe, sweet stuff.

 

Breakfast at 3 in the morning: boiled potatoes, egg, onion. beef, mahi-mahi, I call this layered potatoes :)

 

The pot tilts over during cooking as usual and spills over my bed – got used to this and just smile.

 

Afternoon: resting, reading.

 

Lunch: chocolate.

 

Hard times: the autopilot is unable to keep the course, the waves constanly move the boat’s rear.

 

Butterflying with autopilot is virtually impossible.

 

The 3/4 is difficult because the boat is out of balance due to the broken sail stiffener.

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz  - did not hear me, 21: 00 on 14.287 MHz - Feddy (5-1);

Pos.: 04-388S; 113-03W;

Progress: 59 nm in the past 24 hours.

 

2 whales swam by at dusk about 5 kilometers from me, made a detour. Whale danger. They were VERY CLOSE!!

 

22:00: storm fokk and  large sail – now the boat is keeping the right direction.

 

24:00: dinner – leftover from breakfast.

 

24:00 - 02:00: the autopilot can not keep the course, it is unstable.

 

2007, July 8 (Day 288/21)

 

Temp.:26-34 deg. C;

Bar.: 1016;

Wind: Bf.3-4, direction: 90-110;

Seb.: 2,5 knots;

My direction: 250-300;

Sea condition: 2-3-4;

Raining at dawn, wind intensifies, autopilot unable to follolow course.

 

OK: big waves, weak battery.

 

Morning at 10: Genoa up.

 

Breakfast at 11: leftover layered potatoes from yesterday.

 

The steering stabilizer fixture broke unfortunately, had it changed it in Gibraltar in December.

 

Also, the autopilot fixture located on the steering split at the welding, fixed it temporarily with rope.

 

Later shot 2 mahi-mahi, enough for weaks – started to dry them. In about 30 minutes it is done – is going faster-and-faster. Working at the front, because can clean up the blood there easier.

 

13:00 – 17:00: sleeping, resting – unfortunately could not do it at night.

 

The battery is weak, the autopilot quits intermittently...

 

Lunch: chocolate, apple.

 

Radio:

17:30 21.373 MHz - Freddy and Gyuri were reading in the messages along with the recent Blue Ribbon race results. Did not hear Robi, heard well Laci and Károly (PY2SZ). Radioing is shifting to a later time, sooner-later will change to 14.287 MHz;

Pos.: 04-37S; 113-54W;

Weather: 13-16 SE-E.

 

24:00: dinner – rice with fried fish.

 

Showers and storms in the evening, wind frequently intensifies...

 

22:00-24:00: can butterlying.

 

2007, July 9 (Day 289/22)

 

From about now, feel the radioing is uncetain;

Temp.: 28-32 deg. C;

Bar.: 1014-1019;

Sea condition: 4;

Wind: Bf.5 from 110 (frequent rain and Bf.6 gusts);

Speed: 3-3,5 knots to 260.

 

Breakfast: leftovers from yesterday.

 

MP3 player charging.

 

Navigating, planning the trip to the Marquesas Islands.

 

Checking the autopilot cover, telelphone charging.

 

Resting from 10:00.

 

11:00: Genoa down becuse it got torn up. Fokk up.

 

Sometimes the waves appear as mountains....

 

Will take vitamins from now on.

 

Bottled 1/2 liter water for Dad from position 04-48S; 115-00W. Reached half-way. Showers and bad visibility.

 

Lunch: biscuit, made some cookies.

 

Radio:

18:30 21.373 MHz – Freddy (5-9);

Pos.: 04-48S; 115-11W;

77 nm in the past 24  hours;

Weather: 14-16 knots SE.

 

Dad suggested NUKU HIV at (Taiohae bay) for better repair conditions. Wanted to stop at  HIVA OA Island.

 

From midnight Genoa only beacause of intensifying winds. Sleeping between 01:00 and 05:00 – unfortunately the battery is getting weak but the autopilot still can steer the boat. Will rest from tomorrow on only between 02:00 and 04:00.

 

2007, July -10 (Day 290/23)

 

Temp.: 28-34 deg. C;

Bar.: 1016;

Sea condition: 4;

Wind: Bf.4-5, direction: 110;

Speed: 3-4 knots, 260.

 

Navigate the boat til 6 in the morning. Sleeping: 06:00 – 13:00. Brakfast: biscuit and soup.

 

Replaced the autopilot’a protecting foil. Mp3 charging.

 

Tired the whole day, plus the waves sometimes enter the cockpit.

 

(and running out of the wine too – had a total of 1 liter Sangria)

 

Lunch: biscuit and preserve.

 

Radio:

18:30 21.373 MHz – Freddy (5-5);

Pos.: 04-57S; 116-22W;

Weather: 11-17 E-SE;

Radioing from now on at 01:00 UTC on 21.373 MHz or at 02:00UTC on 14.287 MHz (if not possible before).

 

Dinner: fried fish, biscuit, onion.

 

19:00 - 24:00: navigating the ship.

 

Constant showers, the wind sometimes reaches Bf.5-6, therefore only 1 fokk is up.

 

2007, July 11 (Day 291/24)

 

Happy Birthday, Ákos!

 

Temp.: 26-35 degrees C;

Bar.: 1012;

Wind: 2-3-4Bf., 120

Speed: 2-3 knots;

My directon: 250-260;

Sea condition: 2-3-4.

 

From 24:00 to 06:00, navigating the boat.

 

Got a mild cold possibly due to the wind and my slightly wet hair. Sleep till 10:00, woke up – is warm in the cabin like in a sauna. Big sail up again.

 

Breakfast at 12:00 – biscuit with preserve.

 

The big sail spanner rope holding fixture fell apart. A bolt fell off but can be fixed fast.

 

Boom: now the screws are falling out, afraid that will not last long.

 

Lunch: soup with a lot of dumplings and biscuit.

 

Afternoon: read a little Bible, drinking lemonade. Feel good!!

 

Radio:

19:00 21.373 MHz - Freddy did not hear me; 21:00 on 14.287 MHz – Freddy (5-5);

Pos.: 05-20S; 117-24W;

Weather forcast: 13 SE-E.

 

Don’t understand – charged up the lamp battery, but still not OK. What can be the reason?

 

Dinner at dawn: fried fish.

 

2007, July 12 (Day 292/25)

 

Teemp.: 28-35 deg. C;

Bar.:1012;

Sea condition: 2;

Wind: 0-1-2 Bf., direction: 120;

Speed: 2 knots;

My direction: 260.

 

Steering til 6 in the morning, sleeping til 10.

 

Breakfast at 12:00: rice pudding and biscuit.

 

Afternoon: Genoa sewing, the elevator rope wore out at the upper pulley – had to shorten it, cleaning the bottom of the boat, mahi-mahis circle around me – so I rather give up. Rest.

Lunch at 17:00: müzli slices.

 

Shot a mahi-mahi.

 

Radio:

20:00 21.373 MHz  - heard nobody; 22:00 on 14.287 MHz - Freddy;

Pos.: 05-32S; 118-14W;

Weather: 11-13 knots at E-SE.

 

Translated by Pali/N6DMV.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

(Translation from here to 2007.08.16 by Laci/AA7UY)

 

2007.07.13 (day 293/26)

 

Temp: 28-35°

Bar.: 1016

Sea state: 1

Visibility:  4

Wind: 0-1Bf. direction 120

Spd.: 1 knot

Course: 300

Ate some fried eggs at 3 am.

 

6:30: secured the rudder, went to bed.

 

I rarely use the autopilot because my battery is weak (under 12V)

 

Breakfast: oatmeal

There’s no wind, it’s very warm during the day therefore I’m unable to rest normally during the day.

P.M.: sewing the Genoa, cleaned some mahi-mahi.

 

Lunch: biscuits with jam.

Dinner: potatoes with fish.

 

Radio: 22:00 local 14.287 MHz

Pos. (05-30S; 119-00W)

Freddy 5-7, Pali 5-5.

Weather: until 19: 11-13 E-SE

Spoke with Bogi too over the radio:

Bogi - telephone - Dad - Echolink – Freddy - radio – Áron, a little complicated.

My battery is so weak that I’m not using the cabin lamp. My flashlight is not OK, so I use the cellphone for light in the evening.

 

((The emergency light’s battery went weak after a few days, but I found the second emergency light later).

 

At night 2 or 3 squads of dolphin came and frolicked around me.

 

2007.07.14 (day 294/27)

 

Temp: 28-33°

Bar.: 1018

Sea state: 1

Visibility: 4

Wind: 01-Bf, E

Spd.: 1-2 knots

Course: 240.

10:00: Breakfast: biscuits, jam, fried bananas.

11:30 – 15:30 running the engine (to charge batteries), fuel transfer before it, (I have only 5 gallons left in the spare tank).

 

The main battery is so weak that it can’t start the engine. I won’t use the autopilot at all from now on.

 

The idea beginning now: “at night if the wind doesn’t blow so I sleep”. If it blows then I’d rather sleep during the morning (then the wind is generally weaker)

Lunch: fried bananas, coffee.

 

P.M.: sewing the Genoa, repairing insulation of the dipole antenna.

 

Alas, I cant clean the ship’s bottom, because there are very many mahi-mahis around and the presence of sharks is possible.

 

Dinner: fried bananas.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (5-36S; 120-02W)

Weather: 18 to 16 E-SE then weakens.

61 nm made good during the past 24 hours in the right direction.

 

I became sick after radioing. Nausea, but couldn’t throw up. My stomach aches. Reason: being tired, too much oily bananas, but hopefully nothing serious.

 

23:00 went to bed.

 

2007.07.15 (day 295/28)

 

Temp: 28-35°

Bar.: 1014-1018

Sea state: 1-2-3

Wind: Bf1-2 E

Spd.: 1.5-2 knots

Course: 270-300

4 weeks at sea. Got up after 5 and steered the ship in weak winds. The problem is that I have talked everything over with myself, so we haven’t any interesting themes left J

 

Furthermore my backside hurts from all the sitting J

 

08:00 Breakfast: coffee and orange juice from powder.

 

Forenoon: sewing the Genoa, cleaned the bottom being in the water for 5 minutes but the mahi-mahis were getting closer and afraid that sharks could be near, so I got out of the water. I’m trying to clean the bottom from the ship, as far as I can reach.

 

Carina’s beard is growing bigger by the day so I’m slowing down, losing 0.5 – 1 knot of speed.

14: Lunch: spaghetti

 

P.M.: putting things in order, there are many cockroaches on bard, these are my domesticated animals.

 

Washing dishes (must do it every other day, this I don’t like at all J)

 

Changing polo shirts every 3 weeks on the Ocean, this wouldn’t be appreciated in Budapest, that is why the Ocean is a good place: fewer people criticize one’s lifestyleJ

 

The Sun is out, but this isn’t enough for the solar cell… A few showers and a few wonderful rainbows. Furthermore mahi-mahis and flying fish entertain me all day.

 

Dinner: spaghetti

 

Radio: 22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (05-40S; 120-50W)

Freddy 5-5, Robi 5-6

Weather: 15kt E-SE, then 11-13kt E-SE.

 

2007.07.16 (day 269/29)

Temp.: 28-32

Bar.: 1016

Sea state: 1-2-3

Wind: Bf.1-2 E

Spd.:1.5-2.5knots

Course: 230 v. 300

Breakfast at 8 in the morning: leftover spaghetti, liver paste with biscuits. I made these biscuits nearly a year ago with Dad and my little Bogi. So every time I eat them I think of them and it gives me a good feeling.

 

6:00 – 13:00 steering the ship. Butterflying all day.

 

I found that I like to peel potatoes J

 

Lunch: fried potatoes, ketchup, then self made chocolate cream.

 

P.M.: tied a wind indicator to the side stay, a screw got loose in the railing, tightened that too. The shackle on the 2nd fore-stay got unscrewed, tightened it, a shackle got lost from the fore stay, found a new one and installed it.  Charging the MP3 player (received voice recording from home and listening to it weekly). Sewing the Genoa. Checking all mountings.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS(05-55S; 121-38W)

Freddy 5-5

Made 49nm past 24 hours

Weather: 15-14kt E-SE then strengthening to 15-16.

Calm night, wind sometimes strengthening to BF.3.

 

2007.07.17 (day 297/30)

 

Temp.: 28-32°

Bar.: 1018

Sea state: 1

Wind: Bf.1-2 E

Spd.: 1.5-2.5kts

Course: 300

Breakfast: yesterday’s fried potatoes, coffee

 

The engine didn’t start. Transferred about 15 l fuel into the main tank and tried to start it with the spare battery, but that is too weak anymore also…The 2nd spark plug should be replaced but I’m unable to loosen it.

 

Alas there will be no more engine tests because of the weak battery, only just before the island. This whole thing put me in a bad mood.

 

Cut my finger rather bad while cooking so everything got bloody.

 

Lunch: boiled potatoes, beef, onions.

 

I have been butterflying for days now, didn’t pay attention, unfortunately 1-2 head-banging occurred sometimes.

 

The ¾ direction, 290-240, not quite OK.

 

P.M. Sewing the Genoa, so, slowly “my thread supply is petering out”. The jib, new and smaller, so I’d rather use the old Genoa in light winds, every tenth knot counts.

 

Dinner: lunch leftovers.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS.(5-59S; 122-25W)

I have a hand tuner, so I must tune up every time too.

Very briefly, because this too uses power.

Sparing the energy, so I don’t even say my call sign, just “Freddy can you hear me, here’s Áron”.

Weather info; 16-15-13-10 East.

22:00-24:00 sleeping in the cockpit, then in the cabin until 1. The wind is strengthening, down with the mains’l, so that I can rest a few hours.

Got up at 5, up with the mains’l.

 

2007.07.18 (day 298/31)

 

Temp.: 27-32°

Bar.: 1016

Sea state: 3

Wind: Bf.2-3-4 from the East

Spd.: 1.5-2.5

Course: 260

Breakfast: yesterday’s leftovers, biscuits and caffeine pill. (I have hardly any coffee left).

 

A.M. steering the ship and able to keep the 260 well.

 

13: cooking and putting this in order.

 

Lunch: Bulgur, mahi mahi with garlic (the garlic is still from Hungary).

 

P.M. steering, later a 30 minute nap.

 

Showers all day, though most only last for a few minutes.

 

Dinner: lunch leftovers and onions.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (06-11S; 123-13W)

Freddy 5-5

Weather: 13-15 E-SE

 

2007.07.19 (day 299/32)

 

Temp.: 28-32°

Bar.: 1015-1017                                                                                                                    :

Visibility: 4

Sea state: 3

Wind: Bf.3-4 direction: 90-100

Spd.: 2-3 knots

Course: 240 v.300

Dawn at 4: down with mains’l, because the waves spill in and I’m getting wet.

5-7: showers, so I can rest (true: the wind is weak).

 

I opened Framling’s “2000 nm shinding” consignment today, some pictures of friends (partying & sailing pictures).

 

Breakfast: yesterday’s leftovers and biscuits.

 

Problem: the forward starboard side-stay shows broken strands at the eye – must be repaired later!!!

 

7:30–13:30: hand steering. Showers and occasional wind gusts.

 

From now on I’d rather be up from 7 to 24 and steer the ship (this is my duty time). Stretched it by 2 hours.

 

Lunch: yesterday’s leftovers.

 

P.M. wind is strengthening and increasingly more showers.

 

Evening: many dolphins follow me.

 

At 8 in the evening secured the rudder and went into the cabin to rest.

 

Dinner: eggs sunny side up, onions, biscuits. (Found 2 rotten eggs today). The preserving system isn’t OK after all, will eat more eggs from tomorrow).

 

Unfortunately since I came further south, the current is weaker.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (06-08S; 124-13W)

About 1000 nm to go toward my destination.

Wind: 16-20 knots from 100°

 

2007.07.20 (day 300/33)

 

I’m at 70% of my trip.

 

Temp.: 30-38°

Bar.: 1012-1014                                                                                                                    :

Visibility: 4

Sea state: 2

Wind: Bf.2 direction: 90

Spd.: 2.5 knots

Course: 240 v.280

Breakfast: baked cookies in the morning. Strong sunshine all day. Sailing with fixed rudder, it’s faster this way, 2.5 knots in the right direction!!

 

I noticed electric shock from the water while peeling potatoes:. After cooking I lowered an anode into the water (spare, bought back in Galapagos), with a safety line of course. Tied it to the engine block. This way might be better. II wouldn’t want my engine to be eaten up by the time I get to Marquesas.

 

Checking mast and stays. Putting things in order.

 

Lunch: potatoes, beef, onions.

 

P.M.: Reorganized the tool box, every tool is getting rusty though I greased them all.

Then my back started to ache. Strained it, or rather I made a couple of bad moves.

 

Dinner: lunch leftovers.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (06-29S; 125-14W)

I heard nobody, tried at 23:00 also but still heard no one.

(Noise was 5-7, it was raining around me, furthermore, perhaps the grounding isn’t OK).

 

2007.07.21 (day 301/34)

 

Temp.: 28-35

Bar.: 1017-1018

Sea state: 2

Wind: Bf.0-1, direction: 80

Spd.: 1-2 knots, course 240 v.280

Dawn: dolphins swimming alongside.

 

Breakfast: cookies (sugar, flour, 2 eggs – pasta that I steamed)

 

A.M. Replaced the rudder securing mount (broke a few weeks ago), re-packing port forward compartment, then putting things in order on the shelves. Inspected the onions: still have about 3 kg and none spoiled yet.

 

Laundry: 2 polo shirts/2 undershorts/1 pr. of shorts

 

Varnishing the port side handhold with 3 layers.

 

If I secure the sails: 2 knots in the right direction, if I steer: 2.1-2.2 knots..

 

Lunch: second set of cookies that I’m baking in the pan now.

 

P.M.: Steering in weak wind. Alas my back is aching, I worked too hard.

 

I describe the cooking, because it’s interesting how much can be accomplished in the kitchen with 2 pots (covers long lost, using a wooden board for cover), 1 fork, 1 spoon, 1 butter knife, 1 broken pocket knife, and a diving knife

 

Furthermore, I have to use my gas stove sparingly, my seasoning and food supply is low. This way perhaps it is better understood why these recipes are interesting.

 

Dinner: mahi mahi rice with garlic and onions.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

Unfortunately I overslept today, so didn’t radio.

My back was aching, so I rested in the cabin and didn’t even wake up for the alarm clock.

 

2007. 07.22 (day 302/35)

 

Temp.: 28-35°

Bar.: 1017

Visibility: 4

Sea state: 2-3

Wind: Bf.1-2-3 direction 80

Spd.: 1.5-2.5 knots

Course: 260 v. 300

Breakfast: biscuits and coffee.

 

My back is aching all day, I can’t even move. Can’t lie down, nor can I sit. Steering by hand regardless. The backache doesn’t want to go away. Joking with myself that at least I have a backbone J

 

Lunch: yesterday’s leftovers.

 

My Genoa tore a little on top but I can’t change it because of the backache, continuing with torn sail.

 

Dinner: biscuits, sweets and leftovers.

 

Radio: 22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (06-46S; 126-40W)

Freddy: 5-5

I can hear Gyula from Arizona, but I have to spare the battery, so I’m unable to answer…

Weather: 12-20 knot wind from direction 80-115

 

2007.07.23 (day 303/36)

 

Temp.: 28-35°

Bar.: 1015-1017

Wind: Bf.2 from 80°

Spd.: 1.5-2.5 knots, course 230 v 270-300

Breakfast: biscuits and coffee.

 

The main battery is so weak that not even the compass light works.

 

Steering from 8 in the morning, my back is aching badly, therefore lying down with minimum movements.

 

Had to throw out 10 eggs today, so the method isn’t all that good.

 

Lunch: spaghetti in tomato sauce, then baked some cookies.

P.M.: 15:30-17:00 rested and massaged my back with a body cream. Must rest it more because it’s painful, I hope it isn’t anything serious!!!

 

Dinner: leftover spaghetti.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (06-43S; 127-20W)

Freddy 5-5, Robi, Pali, Pista, Gyula

Heard quite a few amateurs today.

Made 40nm in good direction during the past 24 hours, that means the worst day to date.

 

2007.07.24 (day 304/37)

 

The Carina format logs are gone so from now on will write on blank sheets.

 

Bar.: 1014

Temp.: 28-38

Wind: Bf.1-2 (sometimes 3), direction E-SE

Sun is shining.

Breakfast: sweets, coffee, biscuits.

 

The back ache is getting worse, I’m unable to do anything. I must rest. In a situation like this should a storm come or if I had to handle a problem, I couldn’t do it.

I’m in a vulnerable situation.

 

A.M. : Reading the Bible.

 

Lunch: cream of pea soup with eggs and wieners.

 

Eggs: the ones under the port settee were bad (the last 10-15 pcs.), the ones under the starboard settee are still unspoiled. I think because it is the drier side of the ship.

 

P.M.: Steered lying down for 5 hours. The problem is that it hurts even during sleep, I don’t have a good sleeping position.

 

The reason for my backache:

1.      Lack of exercise (I forgot to do yoga and gymnastics)

2.      Lack of space (am either laying down or sitting, I can’t even stretch myself out properly, not even during sleep)

Problems:

The batteries are very weak.

The Genoa is torn but I’m unable to change it because of the backache.

I’m taking energy package besides my daily vitamin tablets (special tablets for cases like this).

 

Neither rum soaked compress, nor body cream helps. (Also tried a little massage)

 

Dinner: biscuits with liver paste, onions then soup.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (07-00S; 128-03W)

Freddy, Pali and many others.

Weather: 14-16kts E-SE

 

2007.07.25 (day 305/38)

 

Last night’s sail setting worked out fine. Made 18nm in 9 hours in good direction.

 

Temp.: 29-36°

Bar.: 1015-1016

Wind: 1-2-3Bf. (E, NE, SE)

Got up at 8.

 

Breakfast: coffee, biscuits, choc.

 

Steering all A.M. Many seagulls hunting around me.

 

Lunch: Rice, wieners with onions.

 

My back I aching badly. The ship is moving constantly, so healing is difficult.

It’s like a Trabi (Trabant: East German car from the communist era/tr) on a dirt road for  a backbone patient. (The streets of Budapest aren’t even worth mentioning …Hofi (famous Hungarian comic/tr) had a special show about the streets of Bp.)

 

P.M.: resting 1 hour and applied chamomile soaked compress on it. Showers all day.

 

P.M.: Took the torn Genoa down and raised the jib, can’t even sew the state I’m in.

 

Dinny: lunch leftovers.

 

Radio:

 

22:00 14.287 MHz

Freddy: (5-5)

POS (07-13S; 128-47W)

Weather: 14-18kt E-SE (large waves can be expected)

My message:

Battery Voltage:

Spare battery: 12.3V

Main battery: 10.3V (didn’t measure directly on the battery terminals, but on the wire, that’s why it is so low, of course it’s well under 12V)

There are many cockroaches and the ship is in disorder, which is depressing. It will stay this way until my back gets better, because I don’t want to strain it.

Many kinds of fishes follow Carina for days now, not only mahi mahi. The hot chamomile compress helped.

 

2007.07.26 (day 306/39)

 

Temp.: 29-39°

Bar.: 1017

Wind: Bf.3-4 E-SE

Dawn: Shower and stronger wind, so at 2 mains’l lowered, at 9 mains’l raised again.

 

Breakfast: biscuits, coffee and yesterday’s leftovers.

 

In the morning: a huge rain shower, the seagulls must like it, there are more and more of them.

 

A.M.: Steering. My back is aching badly. I must tell Freddy  so that they can visualize the ships and my situation. Very dangerous that I’m unable to move.

 

Lunch: potatoes, beef, onions, dessert: peanuts.

 

P.M.: steering lying down as usual.

 

Dinner: lunch leftovers.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

Freddy: (5-5) Pali (5-5)

POS (07-19S; 129-33W)

Weather: 13-17 kts E-SE

Also received Nuku Hiva info.

My message: “ My back is aching, I can hardly move for days now, generally lying down, my battery is weak”: short and condensed.

 

2007.07.27 (day 307/40)

 

I’m at 80% of the trip.

 

Temp.: 29-38°

Bar.: 1014

Wind: Bf.2-3 SE (P.M.: Bf1 NW)

Breakfast: coffee, oatmeal (with water and powdered milk as usual), peanuts.

 

A.M.: Steering, and the wind dies out completely at times.

 

Lunch: Eggs sunny side up with biscuits.

 

My back is aching very much. There are many seagulls circling around, must be many fishes in Carina’s vicinity.

 

P.M. Steering. 30 minute sleep.

 

Evening time: checking stays and mast.

 

From 7 dark clouds come, heavy rain by 9. I’m soaking…

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (07-06S; 130-17W)

Freddy:(5-5)

Weather info: 13-14 E-SE

(weaker down south, better to keep this latitude)

Strong winds (Bf.5 until 23:00 (with frequent showers), then complete calm!!

 

Night: the large waves remain, down with the mains’l, trying to stabilize the ship with the jib. I can hardly sleep, everything is moving back and forth.

 

Dinner: Stuffed Cabbage from Kunság. (Region of Hungary/tr)

 

2007.07.28 (day 308/41)

 

Temp.: 29-37°

Bar.: 1017

Wind: Bf.3 E-NE (morning Bf.2)

Breakfast: oatmeal, raisins, peanuts

 

A.M. Steering the ship. The usual speed: 2-2.5-3 knots

 

Lunch: cream of lentils, pork patties, a rotten apple for dessert.

 

P.M.: Winds weakening to Bf.1 from the NE, so slowed to 2 knots.

 

Mahi mahis, flying fish and seagulls battling in front of my bow every day.

 

Problem: the small starboard side stay loosened a little, will have to tighten it.

 

Dinner: lunch leftovers

 

Drinking more and more water, using 3.5 l daily sometimes, because of the heat.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (07-02S ; 131-05W)

Freddy (5-5)

Weather: 11-15 kts S-SE

Getting medical advice for my back ache. Will try to cure it.

 

2007.07.29 (day 309/42)

Every evening at sundown I think back over the past day and plan the next.

 

Temp.: 28-35°

Bar.: 1016

Wind: Bf.4 SE

A little bird has been sitting on my anchor since dawn. A wave washed her off in the morning, didn’t fly back. Strengthening wind.. Showers, showers. Lots of rain!! The waves also increase at these times. Everything is moving, rattling, and it isn’t any good for my back either. The waves spill into the cockpit.. This then is the situation. My back is slowly getting better.

 

Steering the ship in raingear. The spd. is good, 3-4 knots.

 

Breakfast: yesterday’s lunch leftovers.

 

Sometimes there’s a Bf.5 blow.

 

Around noon a fishing vessel-like ship crosses my way 2-3 nm away.

 

Lunch: thick bean soup with beef and onions.

 

P.M.: steering

 

The wind is diminishing and waves are subsiding. Strong sunshine, as always. Alas the solar cell connector isn’t secure, sometimes falls apart and then it doesn’t charge the battery.

My back is aching, so for the time being I can’t climb back to the end of the settee, probably isn’t really possible to do. The main connector should be replaced. Because I’m charging the main battery, that I’m not even using right now, this theme isn’t  very important.

 

At 5 p.m. a ship passes 1 mile away, the second one today.  Ship traffic not likely around here. From now on I’ll have to watch at night!!

 

Dinny: lunch leftovers.

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (06-55S; 132-07W)

489nm to go.

Freddy (5-5)

Weather: 12-15 kt E-SE

 

2007.07.30 (day 310/43)

 

Temp.: 30-35°

Bar.: 1010

Wind: Bf.3 E-SE (early morning Bf.4)

Breakfast and lunch: yesterday’s dinner leftovers.

 

A.M.: showers.

 

Problems:

1.      the screw fell out of the boom again, secured it (with glue)

2.      re-tightened the temporary port side stay’s backward pulling system.

P.M. My back is feeling better. Sewing the lifejacket, then the Genoa (which I put away as well). My thread is running out, literally, so I can’t finish sewing the Genoa. Later, after I bought some more thread. I have about 5 m of thread left, which I’ll need in the future…

 

Dinner: soup with lots of pasta.

 

Water: will start drinking bottled water from tomorrow. 3x25 liters water (with preservative, spare) in the after cabin for cooking purposes, 3x5 l for cooking. I have 60-70 l bottled water. In 43 days used 100 l Galapagos water so far. Plus 45 l used for cooking (of which 10 l leaked out).

Radio:

22:00   14.287 MHz

POS (06-58S; 133-05W)

Weather: 13-15 kts E

 

2007.07.31 (day 311/44)

 

Temp.: 29-33°

Bar.: 1012

Wind: Bf.4 E

 

There is a steady 1 kt current, nowadays weaker. Spd.: 3.5-4 knots (steady)

 

Cockroaches are increasingly more numerous.. There will be a cockroach war. May be I’ll just start with terrorist acts at first J

 

Breakfast: leftover, yesterday’s soup.

 

A.M.: steering, sunshine and pleasant weather.

 

Lunch: potatoes, beef (last slices) , pork patties, onions, eggs.

 

My back is feeling better.

 

P.M.: steering. Also started to move more to the south.

 

Dinner: lunch leftovers.

Map (Iles Marquises): 1976 ed., 1:962050, #83020 (USA), here the variation is 10° East (quite a lot!)

 

5 minutes before radioing:

My tuner (CW input) fell apart, it was soldered originally. Trying to fix it by candle light without soldering, I have 5 minutes. Succeeded with great difficulty.

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (07-19S; 134-03W)

371 nm to go.

Weather: 14-19kts, direction 90-110

 

2007.08.01 (day 312/45)

 

Happy Nameday to both Bogis! (I have 2 Bogis) J

 

Temp.: 34-42°

Bar.: 1012

Wind: Bf.2-3 E

Breakfast: oatmeal, raisins and fried flying fish with potatoes.

 

A.M.:  got up a little late, had some stupid dreams. Steering.

 

More and more cockroaches everywhere: cockpit, rear cabin.

 

P.M.: steering.

 

In the evening tried to shoot a mahi mahi without success. Baked, but the cookies didn’t turn out good (all 6 eggs spoiled). So I’m in a bad mood after these 2 failures.

 

Anode: at first the mahi mahis tried to eat it, nowadays a small crab moved into it. Interesting location J

 

Radio:

22:00 14.287 MHz

POS (07-37S; 134-46W)

Weather: 14-18 kts direction 110

Radioing at 23:00 (Galapagos time) from now on. Secondary time: 24:00 (rather 5 minutes earlier) (These “5 minutes before the hour” times were Freddy’s idea: everybody else starts on the hour, so the “Ether” is frequently occupied…)

 

2007.08.02 (day 313/46)

 

Temp.: 30-38°

Bar.: 1016

Wind: Bf.2-3 E

Breakfast: biscuits and lemon

 

10 o’clock snack: Meatballs in tomato sauce, onions, biscuits.

 

A.M.: Steering, navigating and there are showers of course.

 

Lunch: pasta with fish (reading while cooking). I’d very much like to eat all day J

 

P.M. steering while listening to MP3s.

 

(The main battery is beginning to come up, the plus problem could be with the fuse.

 

Dinny: biscuits, oatmeal with chocolate.

 

Radio:

23:00 14.287 MHz

POS.(07-40S; 135-39W)

Msg. from me: the engine wasn’t able to start for 16 days.

Freddy (5-5)

Msg. for me:

Weather: Aug.6-7 17-19 kts E

Robi said hello before going on vacation.

14.300 MHz Pacific Seafarers Net (03UTC)

 

2007.08.03 (day 314/47)

 

Temp.: 30-36°

Bar.: 1014

Wind: Bf.4-5 E-SE

A.M.: got up late.

 

Moved the charging circuit to the spare battery. I’ll tie everything to this battery now. The solar cell is charging it and sometimes the wind generator also. Only the engine remains on the main battery.

 

Sunshine, few clouds. Steering. This has been happening for days now, though the wind is stronger today than usual, so the waves are greater as well.

 

Breakfast: coffee, haven’t had it for a while: little left, must use sparingly.

 

Lunch: rice, fillet of mackerel, onions.

 

P.M.: steering.

 

Dinny: milk (from powder), rice with peas and carrots, wieners, mineral water.

 

Evening: reading Harry Potter.

 

Radio:

23:00 14.287 MHz

POS (07-44S; 136-29W)

225 nm to go.

The position report is done in a special way (this too is Freddy’s idea):

Saying only the numbers twice with 10 second intervals.

Weather: 16-18kts from 100°

Must steer toward the south because I’m too far north!

 

2007.08.04 (day 315/48)

 

Today is the wedding of Szabi and Györgyi. Much happiness! J

 

Temp.: 30-39°

Bar.: 1012

Wind: Bf.3 E-NE

Spd.: 2-3 knots

Course: 180-200 (3/4) v. 260-280 (butterfly, which is harder to hold)

Breakfast: yesterdays leftovers, rice, peas, carrots wieners and 2 mugs of cocoa (from powder of course).

 

A.M. steering wile reading Harry Potter.

 

Lunch: Bulgur, peas, carrots, wieners.

 

The ambience is a little monotonous…

 

Cockroaches and other bugs come around during lunch, they’re a little impudent. My sleeping bag is full of them (and my snow boots too J), there could be several hundred, unpleasant sub-tenants…

 

Radio

23:00 14.287 MHz

POS (08-07S; 137-10W)

Heard Freddy, but alas he didn’t hear me.

I tried at 24:00 as well but he hasn’t heard me again.

178 NM to NUKU HIVA

Freddy called in the weather forecast “in the blind”: 15-19kt winds from 90-105 direction)

 

2007.08.05 (day 316/49)

 

Temp.: 30-37°

Bar.: 1014

Wind: Bf.3-4 E-NE (evening Bf.2 SE)

Spd.: 2-3 knots 230 v.280 direction (3/4 v. butterfly)

Waves: 2 m

Breakfast: yesterday’s leftovers and chocolate cream (I made it)

 

Steering at sunrise, then all morning. 2 showers pass over me. Soaking.

 

Lunch: yesterday’s leftovers boosted with canned corn.

 

P.M.: steering and reading Harry Potter. Unfortunately I finished it today. Hope the weather will be nice tomorrow and I can read while steering.

 

Evening: the wind diminished.

Unfortunately the storm jib’s halyard fell down from 2/3 of the mast’s height. Was using it to stiffen the mast since Galapagos. Its small mount broke. Repairing isn’t important, the mast has to come down to be able to do it.

 

Radio

23:00 14.287 MHz

Freddy (5-5)

POS (08-26S; 137-48W)

Weather: 15-20kts 90-110°

Infos: Timella, Cameron measured 35kt winds 130nm SE of me.

 

He’s my acquaintance, his ship Timella is SeaDog class. Freddy got these infos from the Pacific Seafarer’s Net and relayed to me briefly.

I heard Karesz (HA5CAR) and Tibi (HA5APK) from Budapest and they heard me as well. Very weakly of course. This, so far, is my longest connection.

 

2007.08.06 (day 317/50)

 

Temp.: 29-35C

Bar.: 1018

Wind: Bf.3-5 E

Spd.: 2-3 knots

I could have shot a mahi mahi this morning but now concentrating on sailing.

 

Breakfast: chocolate biscuits, sweets (not much left)

 

I’m cooking potatoes and wieners for lunch and dinner in the morning, because the wind will strengthen later.

 

A.M.: Cloudy skies and raining for an hour. Raining everywhere around me. Read the STAG (Tim Relf) while cooking.

 

A.M.: Steering. Wind strengthening to Bf.5 with great waves. Lowered the main sail because it’s safer going this way.

 

Lunch: potatoes, wieners, onions.

 

P.M.: Wind diminishing some, so I’m able to read while steering. Butterflying most of the day. Later the wind increases again. Waves spill into the cockpit.

 

Dinny: lunch leftovers.

 

Radio:

23:00 14.287 MHz

POS (08-22S; 134-41W)

48 nm made good during past 24 hours.

90 nm to go.

I could barely hear Freddy at first, then propagation improved (5-5).

Pali also helped understand my position (5-6). Not easy, my battery is getting increasingly weaker also. The system: I call in all numbers twice with a few second intervals (because my voltage drops when transmitting…)

 

2007.08.07 (day 318/51)

 

Temp.: 29-32°

Bar.: 1018

Wind: strong Bf.5 SE

Spd.: 2-2.5 knots, on 210 (because I’m too far north!)

Breakfast: biscuits

 

A.M.: steering.

 

The waves are great and spill in too. The mast is swaying. Hard going.

Because sailing in quarter winds I can set the ship and don’t have to steer.

 

My course is 200, much sliding, and the current is taking me Westward. Hard going, I must get down more south!  Goal: 08-45S. The mast is swaying dangerously because I don’t have a port stay, so it isn’t even perpendicular and is weaker. Checking constantly.

 

Lunch and dinny: rice and canned fish (I’m not really hungry).

 

Engine: I was able to replace a spark plug, the 2nd plug is stuck again (the usual problem). Neither silicone nor hammer helps. The main battery is unable to start the engine (too weak), will try with the spare battery tomorrow.

 

Navigation question: shall I round UA HUKA from the north or the south. I’ll round from the north because it’s safe.

 

P.M.: resting. Reading STAG. Then putting things away and in order. Perhaps I can tie up tomorrow. After sunset I change course and progressing in half – ¾ winds north of the island.

 

Radio:

23:00 14.287 MHz

Freddy (AA7UY) very weak.

POS (08-45S; 139-19W)

Weather: 18kts 100 tomorrow.

Later butterflying. Fairly hard to navigate in this darkness.

 

Because of my missing stay, maneuvering isn’t easy either. It’s like if it were pulling to the left, I’m unable to steer right under certain courses. I hardly eat anything, continuous hard going. Concentrating.

 

At 3 in the morning the jib halyard breaks, the jib fell off the mast. Chafed rope, yet I checked it and shortened it at the first chafing a few weeks ago. Of course now the going is good in fair winds, butterflying: “galloping”.  20 minutes work on the bow. Hoisting the jib again with the spare halyard.

 

2007.08.08. (day 319/52)

 

Slept in the cockpit between 8 and 9 in the morning in raingear, then in the cabin for 30 minutes. So much for sleep, not too much…

 

Because I sailed off the West Coast of UA HUKA (4nm) I had to keep a sharper lookout.

 

A.M.: weak winds caused me to steer constantly.

 

I MUST REACH NUKU HIVA. 22nm!!

 

Slow going all day. Good news: checked the engine, it works but very slow! Max: 1-1.5 knots. The spare battery was just able to start it. A.M. sunshine and 2-3 showers which woke- and soaked me.

 

P.M.: 2 more showers soaked me thoroughly. Sitting and soaking in shorts only in the cockpit.  I don’t see any ships between the islands, only an airplane. Wind is weak, waves are great, the boom swinging back and forth. Hit my head hard, drew blood.

Not in a good mood. Can I get in today?

 

Breakfast and lunch: yesterday’s leftovers and plain biscuits.

 

I’m excited, the destination is getting closer and closer. Increasing my speed with the engine for 2-3 hours. Alas the engine died out several times by itself. I don’t know what the fault could be.

 

DESTINATION: NUKU HIVA, TAIOHAE BAY.

 

Finally I reached it. Turned in at the bay entrance. These last 2 miles are very hard after more than 3000 nm, 52 days. Had to lower the sail, heading into a weak wind. It isn’t easy with a frequently stalling engine! Even the current makes it more difficult at the entrance…Slow progress, but making PROGRESS. I aged at least 5 years, if it stops now, there’s nothing I can do. I don’t like to ask for help…

 

It’s getting dark, can’t see anything, proceeding slowly only. The fuel supply isn’t OK either, that’s why it keeps stopping frequently. Once I discovered this, I kept pumping by hand so it didn’t stall. One sparkplug is bad and the ship’s bottom is very dirty. In other words: I’m slow.

 

When I got closer I found a sailboat that was using the top light. I asked where the other ships were. Then dropped the anchor.

 

I’VE ARRIVED! Rum then rum and more rum and sleep. Slept well.

 

After the anchoring maneuver it was too late for radioing.

 

2007.08.09 (day 320/53)

 

Larsen (LUNA) came over in his dinghy, he was my line-handler during the Panama transit. Here we meet again. We really enjoyed our meeting, he brought me some fruits.

Then Liz showed up, a 27 year old American solo sailor (plans Round-the-World). She brought me hot coffee and fruits. Larsen took me ashore, where I checked in and withdrew some money too.

 

Local currency here is francs (1 USD = 100 francs). An expensive country, beer 2-3 USD, chow 6-9 USD. (Of course you can eat for $20 as well).

 

Then went on the Internet, because I was unable to notify anybody of my arrival. My telephone doesn’t work here either.

 

Peter (Australian solo sailor) offered to help with the ship’s repairs. Mainly riveting.

Liz, who was Gaspar’s love in Galapagos (they both surf, so there was a common theme), towed me into the inner bay, from where I can reach the shore easier.

 

The town is rather small, so it can be looked over in 1-2 hours. Also talked with the locals, as customary. Typically the local families are large, frequently even 10 children.

In general they hate the French and are very loose.

 

Evening: the sailors congregate in a bar, where we had some drinks and ate too.

Got to know a few interesting people. Dealen: 25 years old American solo sailor, (plans Round-the-World), has been on the Island for 2 months; an Englishman, here for 6 months now and doesn’t know when he’s going to continue… Many, many people are families in general, couples, Australians and Americans. (These times I find that I’d rather hang out with the locals).

 

Returned to Catrina late at night.

 

2007.08.10 (day 321/54)

 

Got up early in the morning. Didn’t sleep too well. Started to put things in order in the ship, a difficult case.

 

A local came by in a boat in the morning and we chatted some. He also brought some fruits. Perhaps I could squeeze in between the fishing boats on Sunday. Larsen took me ashore, then I tried netting. Alas, the machine wasn’t OK, antivirus problems. Went to see a German guy, the information expert on the Island. Finally fixed it myself…

 

P.M. Internetted. Evening: chatted with local fishermen, then we had some beers. They were kind and spoke English too, so I didn’t have to force my poor French.

 

Interestingly, there are 2000 inhabitants on the Island, but there also are a few transvestites J Met with a man who came to conduct census on the Island, or rather to organize it. Ones who resided here more than 6 months have to be included J

Met a young Czech who is island hopping, it was always his dream…

 

Spent the night ashore, slept on a bench. Shorts and polo shirt weren’t too warm. The wind is blowing and it’s raining (fortunately though I have a roof over me). The fishermen go out between 22 and 24 hours and return between 01 and 03. Interestingly 6 fishing boats went out, all of them sport motorboat style with 2 people. Modern fishermen J

 

Helped a lone fisherman to tie up in the rain, got soaked a little…So sleeping along with several fishermen on the beach, though some have blankets…

 

2007.08.11 (day 322/55)

 

The fisherman’s bar/cafe opens at 4 at dawn and I enter too and drink a coffee (the owner invited me). Nice man, we talked a little about my voyage.

 

The marketplace opens at 5, you can buy everything. Mostly fish, vegetables, fruits

bakery items…The harbor is full. After 7 we meet with the people from the neighboring ship. They come over and we talk a little. They don’t know how long they’ll remain on this island, could be 1 or 2 years.

 

The market winds down after 7 and the fisherman’s café closes, I meet the Czech traveler while walking in town. 

Breakfast and lunch: bagels and French cheese.

 

A.M.: talked with a local, interesting: there is a movie house that seats 40 persons J

Tattoos are available for 5000 francs (could possibly take a Tiki on me J)

I may go horseback riding, it’s excellent for charging up…There aren’t many program possibilities here. (There is no bar or place for shinding either…)

 

P.M. talked with the local ferry captain, there’s room for 9 crew and 150 passengers in his ship. He very kindly offered to help with the ship’s repairs.

 

Met with Dylan and Liz ashore. Dylan came over to help replace the lower point of the port rig and brought a special spark plug wrench and removed the stuck spark plug. Then Lars came over with Liz so we had a “single handed sailor’s” meeting in my ship. Lars’ girlfriend spent her vacation here and leaves today for home, so she wasn’t in a good mood, so we drank some Ecuador rum…

 

Evening: dinner at Dylan’s and drinking beer, it was an unbelievably good shinding.

Theme: the worst meal we cooked in our own ship, preparing the most complex meal, eating under the most difficult conditions, these were things we talked about. For example: when the gas ran out in Liz’s ship, she started her engine and heated the food on top of it…

 

2007.08.12 (day 323/56)   

 

In the morning: Peter (59 year old Australian solo sailor), started Around-the World in 2003 and will arrive home this year, he was going with a young girl in the Caribbean for 1 year, and other adventures made his voyage last this long, (trade: ship repair master), came over to my ship and we took the boom over to his ship for repairs.

Replaced the remaining 2 bolts with rivets, so there are now 8 strong rivets in it now.

 

Spent two hours in the water cleaning the ship’s bottom, the situation has improved, but not by much. Checked the rudder because it has play again. The two mounts at the bottom of the skeg are loose, the two bolts holding them are loose, I shall have to fix it next time the ship is taken out of the water.

 

Liz came over and brought me a book for the trip and a DVD full of music. Talked some. She’s in love with Gaspar, whom I met in Galapagos. So there are interesting connections here at sea.

 

Evening time Dylan came over and also brought music, I gave him Hungarian music. I.e.: Hobo. Worked some on the ship. Replaced the side stay mount, there’s only one more to replace. Then after dinner I went over to him to chat and drink. Swapped music and looked at films. Returned to Carina after midnight.

 

The Marquesas Island group: 9 islands and 4 rock cliffs, about 6,000 people live here.

There were nearly 100,000 in the 19th century, but western civilization and illnesses greatly reduced their number. Until then they were living in isolation with their own legends and rich natural surroundings (here there are fruit trees everywhere and all fruits are free, though they’re also being sold in shops) J Men and women relations are free…

 

May 9, 1595 Avaro Mendana de Veira started with 5 ships and landed on Tuamotu – Fatu Hiva.

 

In 1841 France occupied the islands. Mr. Dorlillon governed the islands, banned their religion, tattoos, heathen songs and introduced mandatory schooling. The locals couldn’t go around naked and such.

 

Nowadays the place is a Paradise for rich tourists.

 

French Polynesia (French department): Marquesas, Gambier, Tuamotu, Society, Australian islands.

 

The French atomic bomb tests were conducted on Mururoa Atoll, for this reason the southern part of Tuamotu in not accessible.

 

Interesting fact: the graves of Paul Gaugin and Jacques Brel are on Hiva Oa.

 

2007.08.13 (day 324/57)

 

Dylan poured water in the sink while crossing the Equator and watched it drain. He observed that the water did not whirlpool either right or left. Interesting experiment J

 

He took me ashore in the morning (before 8), so I was able to talk with Szilvi Suri in the Hátszél (Following Wind/tr) program, then I gave a report to Tina Magazin via MSN without headset that I left in the shipJ

 

A.M.: Dylan helped me to replace the last aluminum mount on deck, which secures the lower point of the side stay. Then cleaned the ship’s bottom a little.

 

P.M.: tried to upload pictures ashore, but unfortunately it went real slowly.

 

Went over to Liz’s ship in the evening, we had drinks. www.swellvoyage.

 

A sportish gal, who is very kind, alas I insulted her a little because she misunderstood me. It isn’t important for me to be appreciated, but apparently for her it is…

 

2007.08.14 (day 325/58)

 

Recommended book: DOVE by Robin Lee Graham (circumnavigated the world between 1969-1974 in a 24 foot ship. Left the U.S. at age 16).

 

Went ashore in the morning to Internet, then Liz towed Carina with her dinghy (the weak battery couldn’t start the engine). Now I’m tied up at the large ship’s pier. Many came to admire. Some already planning the evening party in Carina.

 

Peter invited me for a usual evening beer drinking at Rose’s . Happy hour starts at 5.

 

Started to fill the batteries one by one at the Yacht Service.

 

P.M.: uploaded pictures into the Gallery. Heard today that everything will be closed tomorrow, so I can’t Internet tomorrow either.  My 20-hour frame is gone, for that reason too I can’t Internet. I should buy some, but I might deal with the German info guy…

 

Evening: went over to Rose’s for drinks. Roy (English, 62 years old zoologist and solo sailor), Peter (Australian, 59 years old solo sailor) and Jefferson with his wife (who is a retired American doctor). Pleasant chat about the interesting Marquesian art (statues, tattoos) and where the Polynesians originate from.

 

Evening, because of ebb tide, I just about had to jump onto Carina. It didn’t go too well in the dark…

 

2007.08.15 (day 326/59)

 

Catholic holiday, but I don’t exactly know what kind J They held a procession in town.

It was interesting that they took a statue and of course with many flowers ashore in kayaks accompanied by drumbeat. And that’s where the procession started.

 

Everything is closed.

 

Philip (elderly English gentleman running a serious mechanic shop near the Industrial Park) promised yesterday to help. So I went up to him. Stay solution: replaced the old broken small piece with a new aluminum piece. Inside the pipe there is a strong (not stainless) 10cm long metal piece, to strengthen the critical section. Then a copper pipe soldered to the new aluminum piece, the copper pipe and the metal rod will hold the 2 aluminum pieces together, naturally I’ll apply some epoxy there as well.

 

Interesting conversation (frequently happens these days), when the work was finished.

-         How much do I owe you?

-         Why, do you have any money?

-         Not really – I answer with a smile

-         I thought so, you don’t owe me anything.

-         Thank you.

A typical conversation nowadays…Of course these people come to me saying they’d like to help me and afterwards it’s natural that they don’t charge anything.

 

Then I went to town  to look around (didn’t do it so far), then walked over to the next bay (my feet hurt after 1 hour of slow walk). After this I went to Rose’s and looked at her Museum. Rose is running a restaurant/boarding house and museum here. She’s been on the Island since 1972, before that, in the 60’s she sailed with her husband. In other words one of the most interesting persons on Nuku Hiva. J

 

Then I found a 220V outlet next to the bus depot, so I’m able to use the machine. The drawback is a lot of mosquitoes that like to land on the wound on my leg. Ran into the large ship’s captain, chatted a little. Then a local who is decorating the depot quarreled saying I shouldn’t use the electrical outlet. Explained my situation in my poor

French, so far all’s well.

 

I got acquainted with a local fellow (called Mohi) while returning to the ship, a 29 year old tattoo master, who is very loose and is full of tattoos and one can joke around with him. So we talked and started to drink seriously. Rum at first, then his pal joined us (talked with him earlier already, 33 years old, he won 3rd place in the Marquesas kayak championship). A little wine appeared, then we went to town for beers. The situation is that I rarely drink alcohol nowadays, so it got the best of me pretty soon J

 

A large tourist ship will arrive here tomorrow, they’ll hold a small festival on the beach for them.

 

2007.08.16 (day 327/60)    

 

Mohi, an artist, makes mainly wooden and stone statues. There is a great market because of the tourists and he too is selling his creations. For looks Mohi is a typical

Polynesian warrior…

 

Charged the spare battery to 13.11V. I don’t understand, the charger isn’t OK, checked the fuse and replaced it but it wasn’t the problem. Went to an old fisherman, but it wasn’t OK there either. He gave me fruits and now charging my batteries with his charger.

 

The boutique’s owner told me that earlier someone sailed from America in a 2-3 meter long boat for 3 months. At the end of the adventure he could hardly walk J