The life on Fiji – LEWA yacht log

Part 7, 2008.01.14 – 02.07

(trans. By Laszlo AA7UY)

I am one, who could be anyone else if he listened to his heart. I am a man who falls on his knees before the mysteriousness of Life, who is open to miracles, who cheerfully and ardently relates to everything he does. Coelho, Paulo

No single day is like that another, because each contains a miracle, a magic moment, when the Universe collapses and new stars are born. Coelho, Paulo

(The above were translated from Hungarian quotes as written in the Yacht log)

2008.01.14. (day 478)

Interneted all night, slept none. At dawn talked with people, then at 8 walked over to Jerry in his village, he helped me to make a fish trap. His youngest child, Daniel escorted me to the village, who later helped making the fish-cage as well. Lunch: scrambled eggs with onions and biscuits in the ship. Before start we put the engine on deck, then I said good bye to everybody. Returned the books to Hans. Paul was rather de-concentrated, his wife left him and he can’t get over it. It was a difficult start, maneuvering with a trimaran is hard. 1.5 hours after leaving, anchored outside Lautoka. There are four popular tourist islands here: Beachcomber, Treasure, Bounty and Navini, we were not too interested in these. In Fiji, if you travel to another island you must check out with customs/port captaincy, this is rare in other parts of the world. It was similar in French Polynesia.

We also visited David the mechanic who took us into town free. Spent 60 FD fruits/vegetables, 74 FD for food from the store for two weeks. Drank beer at the Chinese (4.5 FD). Dined at the Tiger then drank with two Fiji girls (Vilimaina and her niece) in the ship in the evening. Then I drank some kava at night in the harbor with the security men. Paul is pretty unstable, often collapses completely and cries about his wife and girlfriend. Very depressed.

2008.01.15 (day 479)

“….I also sent you a number over the radio, as to a very brave man.J Imagine, several people reacted to this, how praiseworthy is your trip, and that they too saw the Focus!”

Paul’s wife called him on the phone, he woke me up with it. Paul is completely exhausted, nothing seems to help. We talk every day, but the situation hasn’t improved since July. Many, when losing their wife or girlfriend feel a deep pain and the world stops turning for them, but alas I’m very experienced in this and can handle it better. I also noticed that if the wife is traveling for a month and the husband stays alone in the ship, he can’t find his place, becomes sad and depressed, locks himself into his solitude and unable to enjoy his life alone. Sometimes solo sailors are terribly bored in port and keep calling friends, old girlfriends to the ship again, they don’t want to be alone and bored…

Reading in the morning, after breakfast we went over to the neighboring ship. Talked a little about the route possibilities to SavuSavu, where it is worth stopping and look around under water. Unfortunately the Customs are not very understanding, the previous customs clearance is missing therefore we can’t leave Lautoka. Lunch in town 2 rotis and fried kasava (2.3 FD). Then went to Banaras to see Ruben. His children’s birthdays are on Jan. 7 and July 23, which are great holidays in Ethiopia. Ethiopia is rather interesting for the Fijians: they originate from there (similar face, nose, hair…) and there are Biblical interpretations as well. The wives of Salomon and Moses also were Ethiopian women. Eden was in those parts too.

Dinner in town: 1.5 FD fish and fried potatoes. I have infected sores on my hands and feet just like Paul. This requires constant treatment, mainly cleaning. Viliamina came over to the ship again today.

2008.01.16 (day 480)

Got up early morning, had tea and talked with Paul. He had a hard but interesting life. Sailing for 12 years, 7 of those in French Polynesia. Ocean biologist and professional diver. together with his wife, who also is professional diver and they worked on pearl farms together in French Polynesia for example. According to many, I shall always be white here, you can’t assimilate because of the huge cultural differences. Everybody here speaks English, which sometimes is special but understandable, after 1–2 weeks. At least the language isn’t a problem. We found the missing document but can’t leave port because a cyclone is heading this way. Afternoon: went shopping for the trip. Read in the evening.

2008.01.17 (day 481)

Reading Bernard Moitessier’s book, I was very impressed by his recommending to sail with the Optimist. Though sailing with it is wet, but it’s very simple and very instructive. His experience was that many people are too proud to sail in a “kid’s boat” because they’re afraid to be a laughing stock.

Reading in the ship all day, then afternoon we went to town. Paul still has a few things to take care of. Late evening I meet some acquaintances in town and we had a bash.

2008.01.18. (day 482)

Breakfast: biscuits and bread with preserves. The wind is 25-30 knots but the waves are small, yet the anchor still slipped. For this reason we moved over to the fueling pier in the fishing harbor. This strong wind and heavy rain are from cyclone Funa (Cat. 2). The Lautoka - SavuSavu ferry turned back last night. We can’t leave because of that either. Lunch: avocado. Later talked with Paul about the eternal theme: women. He loves his wife but doesn’t know what he really wants, that’s the greatest problem.

P.m.: interneting in town one hour (1 FD), then lunch at the Chinese for 2.2 FD. Plenty and cheap, but cold. Beer drinking (1.5 liter of beer 6.7 FD).Shopping: bakery cookies 2.8 FD. Evening: Vilimaina came over and we drank a little beer. She said she’d introduce me to her family if we keep on meeting every day. Interestingly I learn more and more about Fiji when I talk with Vilimaina. About the old Gods (Dakuwaqa – the Sea God), the life without clothes, cannibalism and the tribal wars of the old days. These talks are very inspiring to me.

2008.01.19 (day 483)

Went to town with Paul again today, based on the weather forecast, we shall depart tomorrow. Less winds and rain – important if we are to do some diving. Last little shopping. Paul takes care of a couple of things and I meet with buddies, then evening Vilimaina comes over to teach me the Fiji language and we drank some beers.

2008.01.20 (day 484)

Departure at 7 in the morning, full sails by 8. Hoisted two main sails and a Genoa. Speed 5 knots, course 010°. Wind from 320° (Bf.3). The slats are missing from the after main sail, so its profile isn’t perfect. There are many shoals, we must be constantly alert and sometimes have to use the engine to avoid a shoal. There is a rat in the ship that chewed on the sugar bag, some papayas, bananas and avocados. It chewed my pen yesterday, which is annoying. We set a few rat traps but so far no results. The wind weakened after 10, Paul went to sleep so I’m navigating which doesn’t let me do much else.

Pleasant weather. Afternoon anchored near a small island (Malake is). I swam ashore right away. Evening: played a French table game with Paul (this we do quite often during the voyage).

2008.01.21.(day 485)

Departed after 8 in the morning (17-19S; 178-27E), prior to that I swam ashore and walked on the uninhabited island. Then dived over the coral banks. Wonderful morning. Breakfast fried bananas and papayas. Alas, around 10 o’clock the ship grounded on the coral bank, the reason is simple: Paul checked the map but not accurately enough… Had a hard time pulling it off with the help of an anchor and the engine. At noon we visited a pearl farm where only children were present. Afternoon at 2 bought fish from the fishermen on the open sea. Later the wind weakened to Bf.2-3. Late afternoon anchored at Vatu-I-Ra Island. It isn’t always easy to find the entrance between the shoals. Not a recommended anchorage because of the great depth but succeeded in finding a good place at the second time. Evening: the wind increased to max. 20 knots with rain.

2008.01.22 (day 486)

Sailing through Vatu-I-Ra Channel today, meanwhile catching a 5-6 kg jack. Then afternoon at 4 dropped anchor near the south part of Vanua Levu Island, near the village of Navave. Afternoon: diving and swimming. Late afternoon: continuous rain. It’s warm but wet. Meals: lot of fruits (papaya, mango, pineapple) and avocado. Sometimes fried fish or raw fish with soy sauce and lemon.

Windy all day, Bf.4-5.

2008.01.23 (day 487)

Left the anchoring place late morning. Sailed more than 20nm with occasional help from the engine.

Course is east, the wind north-northeasterly Bf.2-3 with heavy rain. Afternoon anchored in Wainunu Bay (across from Ravi). There are too are many shoals here and we chose our anchorage slowly and very carefully. Then I went to swim and dive along the shoals. Our gas is gone, no more cooking, will refill tomorrow in SavuSavu.

2008.01.24 (day 488)

Got up in Wainunu Bay in the morning. It’s sunny and warm. Departed late morning because we want to tie up in SavuSavu in the afternoon. The distance is 20nm. First motored through the narrow Nasonisoni narrows then set a north-northeasterly course. Destination: SavuSavu. The easterly winds arrived too, so we could now sail as well. Sailed all the way in quartering Bf.3-4 winds and occasional rain. Tied up at the Yacht Club buoy at 2 p.m. After a brief cleanup we went ashore to internet and for shopping. Dinner in town with Paul, curry chicken and roti 4.5 FD. SavuSavu is more expensive than Lautoka.

Got acquainted with Rosa and Ezaias at the marketplace, they invited me for drinks to their place, where I stayed until 11 p.m. They taught me a few Fiji and Rambi songs (see video – playing music together) and I sang and played the guitar with them on a very poor level.

This sailing voyage was an absolute rest, pleasant and without excitement. I almost forgot what the real, normal (?) sailing is like. A greater, more stable and stronger seagoing ship in normal weather near the coast. It was a little like “Croatia”.

2008.01.25 (day 489)

At 9 in the morning met Rosabella in the marketplace, then we bused to Salt Lake. Met her family. Five generations ago an Englishman came here, liked the island and bought some land. Now, more than 200 people live here, they are all cousins, it is a large family, descendants of the Englishman of course who came from a Rambi island. It is like a small settlement. There are two shops and a small coconut drying plant. Most everybody owns land which they cultivate (dalo, kasava, kava, tobacco leaves), and many are working at the local resorts. There is a large beach alongside the settlement, many make a living from fishing. Walked over the shoals with Rosabella to a small island where everything is perfect. Late afternoon Franky showed us the settlement and the local way of life. He introduced us to his buddies, cousins: Ben, Charlie, Jack… There’s an interesting little gangster team here that doesn’t always keep within the law!

There is a volleyball match every afternoon on the family court. Dinner with Rosa, what I really liked was the Drauni moli tea (lemon leaves), then drank kava with the family in the evening. Joshua (55), the father has 13 children: Franky, Ezaias, Jack, Jiren, (21 y/o), Rosabella, Mina, Edward, Joseph, Naomi, Kiuann, Mordecai, Matilda (2 years old).

Many foreigners bought land here and built house on it. Many live here all the time too. Frequently an older man marries a young Fiji, Indian or Rambi girl. Undeniably this was an unforgettable day, I had the feeling that this is the place I always wanted to live, and it would be good to settle here and live a simple farmer’s life…

2008.01.26 (day 490)

Morning: talked with Edward and the others from across the street. After breakfast (fried fish, that Jiren caught last night over the reefs) took Rosabella’s younger sister to the hospital in SavuSavu, instead of Salt Lake, because she was very ill. Saturday morning the buses are full, hard to find a place. We swam in the ocean before that though. The hospital reminds one of a Hungarian hospital in the 60s, but the people are kind. Lunch at the hospital: roti. Afternoon an hour of interneting (3 FD), then talked with Paul. We are planning to repair the keel. Drinking kava with the locals in a small village. Dinner: kasava with fried fish (4 FD). Visited Rosabella again in the hospital in the evening.

The Mormons came, I’m not an eloquent speaker, but have my opinion of things. Because I look poor, dirty and ragged clothing, my hair is rasta, therefore I’m more creditable than the well-groomed Mormon in white shirt with necktie, who always says the same things the same way. I am not talking about God, because in my opinion we are not there yet. I’m talking about people, because we humans keep making basic mistakes from day to day. We should first understand the world better…

2008.01.27 (day 491)

It’s raining. Everything is closed here on Sundays, even the buses aren’t running. So, I rest and read during the forenoon. Afternoon Rosabella, her brother Ezaias and his wife Tani came for a little 3-4 hour sailing. Their first time in a sailboat and they enjoyed it. The weather was perfect too, (it didn’t rain). While departing, sighted Luna, my friend Larsen’s ship, my line handler in Panama, then we met again in Marquesas and also in Tahiti. After sailing went to the hospital with Rosabella to visit her sister, then later had dinner in the ship, scrambled eggs with onions. Alas, it was raining a little during sailing, so my hair got wet and developed a cold because of the strong wind, so had a long and unpleasant night. You can easily get a cold in the tropics if you’re not careful.

2008.01.28 (day 492)

Again it’s raining all day. I’m sick, tea with lemon and algopirin didn’t work, also tried mexalen but it wasn’t any better. Had to go to town to internet (3 FD), the place was air-conditioned and my cold got worse. (I requested to have it shut off but they wouldn’t).

Shopping: 2 apples, 2 oranges, crackers and local medicine (Stopache) – 6.3 FD. Lunch: soup. Afternoon rested in the ship and drank many teas with lemon. Late afternoon went over to Luna to talk with Larsen, since we haven’t seen each other in 4 months now,

2008.01.29 (day 493)

Two hours of interneting in the morning (6 FD). Then bought some bakery cookies (2.5 FD). Ran into Larsen in town and we talked briefly. Here in the tropics two showers are needed daily, there are lots of bacteria because of heavy rains and warmth. Went to the hospital again where I met and talked with Joshua. Later I got a coconut oil massage for my illness from Rosabella in the village of Buda. Then we talked and drank beer. Her daughter, Julietta is 7 years old, she had her birthday bash today and a little more holiday like dinner with cake and of course music. Then we went back to the hospital again. There are no buses in the evening and was raining so we had to take a taxi (2.5-3 FD)

2008.01.30 (day 494)

Drank tea in the morning then played a game with Paul. Afterwards Paul hoisted me up to the top the mast and I re-threaded the jib hoist. The seat-board of the boatswain ‘s chair broke, so we replaced that with Paul then returned it to the neighboring ship. Had Chinese lunch in town with Paul, we need to do it occasionally because we are living together, we need common programs and talks. Then I interneted, had to send an article to Vitorlás Magazin (Sailing Magazine), it took less than an hour. The things I wanted to write about just poured out of me this time, though there are times when it isn’t so easy.

The tap water is undrinkable in the marina and in town because of the heavy rains. We still have some water from Vuda Marina, but not much. Paul lost the key to the showers, so the security guys opened it for me. Went to visit Rosabella and her younger sister (Mina) in the hospital in the evening. Because I walked, a heavy shower caught and soaked me. At night I slept in the ship with the window open – that didn’t help my cold either.

2008.01.31 (day 495)

Got up late morning, I’m sick again. Ate an instant-soup to get better. Afternoon I went shopping for a little food for the ship and kava for the friends. When I went to the Bligh Water Shipping LTD office I found out the next transit to Lautoka wasn’t possible because the ferry is aground on the reef by Lautoka: perhaps after 3 weeks of repairs. The MV Suil is OK to Suva however, would depart Saturday evening. Then bused with Rosa toward Salt Lake (2.4 FD/ticket), walking the last 5 km because the bus couldn’t negotiate the road from the trees felled by Monday’s cyclone. Evening: talking with the family and drinking kava, and because I didn’t feel well, I went to sleep early. The others stayed up ‘til 3 in the morning and drank kava. Dinner was a Rambi specialty. Papers, personal ID card, Hospital Card…mean little here, if someone loses it they don’t replace it, because here everybody knows everybody. They never ask for ID in the offices…

2008.02.01 (day 496)

It is a typical, average and simple house with few rooms and many people. It seems people sleep everywhere. In the morning Rose wrung some voyivoyi roots for me; its juice is a natural fever relieving medicine. At first I was just chewing on the root, then drank the liquid. Breakfast: freshly fried doughnuts. Later suckled on sugarcane with the kids. Her father wants to sell me some land at a special price, showed me a couple of places in the morning, he has a lot of land, all of it in premium locations.

One could build a smaller house fairly cheap. I told papa how unimaginably difficult this decision would be. New life, new country, new culture, leaving friends and family behind, living a land lubbers life instead of a seagoing one. You can’t start the next dream before finishing the present one. I haven’t finished my sailing voyage yet….

While walking in the forest with Joshua a flying ant bit me in a couple of places. This is a special tropical ant, you feel a rather strong pain for 5 minutes, then it ceases. Lunch: usual Rambi Fiji food with rice (i.e. fried eggplant). Later bused back to SavuSavu with Rosa. Refilling telephone card 5 FD, bought some cookies for dinner 1.5 FD. Paul was playing the usual table game with a guy in a wheelchair. Interesting scene. Most sailors are snobs and don’t like what Paul is doing. I accept it, but do not understand. He could easily find a pretty girl for himself and spend his time more pleasantly.

What I really liked here was the bamboo boat, called bilibili. 2 tall 4 wide 3 long bamboos are tied together with strong runners, strengthened by 2 smaller bamboos across. A coastal raft for 2 persons, the steersman stands in the end pushing the raft with a long bamboo pole.

2008.02.02 (day 497)

Went to town in the morning. Breakfast: meaty cookies (1.5 FD) and 1.5 hours of interneting (4.5 FD), later had pizza for lunch (1.5 FD). Today’s ferry has been cancelled (MV Suil) because of engine problem. It’s uncertain when they resume the transit, but must figure a minimum of a few days repair time. Went over to the other ferry company and bought a ticket for Sofi (55 FD economy class). She’s probably the oldest ship in Fiji, a Greek vessel that was decommissioned in Europe 20 years ago, but still good enough for here…Very slow, capable of about 10 knot speed. This is her last voyage. After Suva she’ll steam to New Zealand for a major overhaul. (There’s no dry dock large enough in Suva). So it will be an exciting voyage. Sometimes – rarely, I meet acquaintances from Vuda Marina, for example today I met with the captain and his wife of the ship Koro. Afternoon shopping for tomorrow’s trip (6.6 FD), then later slept in the ship because I had a slight fever again. A sore on my foot got infected also. Airplane ticket between SavuSavu and Nandi is 180 FD, so I never even considered that, rather, whenever possible, I choose travel by ship. Paul said I don’t have to pay, originally we were supposed to share expenses. It was a very nice gesture.

2008.02.02 (day 498)

Slept quite well, I’m almost healthy. I have no fever though my mood isn’t the best. Ate some bread with preserves for breakfast. Then I read, packed, washed dishes, cleaned up and rested a little as well. Bought a few cookies for the trip, then had a big lunch in the ship (egg-noodle soup). Had to board the ferry at 3 p.m. it went quite slowly because of the large crowd. Departed at 6 instead of 5, it’s hard to organize people here, they’re slower and less attentive. Films were shown, which was good. The negative part of the trip was that more people boarded than officially allowed, they’re trying to increase their profits that way (not very legal and mainly, not comfortable). About a 100 of us slept in one air space, next to me an old man snored, a small child cried a lot behind me, it wasn’t a pleasant night. Got acquainted with a Tonga sailor and a 20 year-old American lady, whose husband, Jim is 28 years old. Interesting combination. The lady is attending Suva University, but spends an occasional half-year in California. Jim is professional musician.

2008.02.04 (day 499)

We tied up at 7 a.m. in Suva, but could disembark after 8 only because of the crowd. Walked from the harbor to town, the Capital is nice and small, 80 thousand inhabitants. Looked at the more important buildings, statues, churches, parliament, government building, garden, also the museum (7 FD).

In the museum I was interested mostly in the canoes. The Bevelo is the smallest and simplest canoe, designed for rivers. In general, they’ve used it for fishing and carrying cargo. The one in the museum was used in the early 1900’s on the Waidalice river. Waqa Dura is an ocean going, double hulled canoe.

The last one was built in 1913 in Vulaga with help from the last traditional builder. Size: L-13.43m; L (second hull) =12.18m; Mast =7.92m; deck =5.5 x 3.31m. In the 19^th century the greatest was the Rusaivanua, 35.97m long.

Later met Gyuri and his family, he teaches at the local University. Lunched together at the Bowling Club, then he showed me around the University. An unbelievably huge garden on campus, pleasant place and it isn’t overcrowded with buildings. After a delicious Hungarian dinner, cooked by Tünde, I slept at their home at the University. After the night in the ferry, I could finally sleep normally. Thank you for the hospitality.

2008.02.05 (day 500)

In the morning bused back to town then from there to Lautoka (14.3 FD), the trip took 5 hours. There I bought some antibiotic crème, (3 FD), fried fish with potatoes (2.2 FD) and a few other necessities. Got back to the marina at 5 p.m. Dinner: spaghetti in Bobby’s ship with a few cold whiskeys. Then sorted my logs in the evening.

2008.02.06 (day 501)

Got up later in the morning. It rained all day, so no work today. Writing log, sorting pictures and watched a few films (DVD). Evening at 5 went over to Hans’ ship and we dined together. Hans is vegetarian, so the menu consisted of rice, soy and vegetables, finished with fruits and beer. With him all talks are very inspiring. Then went with Bobby to First Landing, where there was nothing happening, then to the Yacht Club. Today is Bob Marley’s birthday, so there was Bob Marley day at the Yacht Club. After closing I interneted at the marina ‘til dawn. Uploading pictures went very slowly.

2008.02.07 (day 502)

In the morning I disconnected the engine, but the free haul to the service didn’t materialize. Ate nothing all day. Afternoon walked over to Jerry’s village, where I got acquainted with half the village people, ate a little (roti) and drank tea. I brought the fish trap we made 3 weeks ago. Afterwards went to the river together to check and adjust his traps and canoed a little. Then I walked back to my ship in the marina with my fish trap. Dinner: tuna fish, onions biscuits. Then interneting and picture uploading ‘til dawn.

Rabian language lesson:

Good day! Mauri

Good morning! Te monigapong

This Aio

So long! Sapo

Thank you Erapa (singular), Kor apa (plural)

Food Amarake

Drink Noi

Thou Qe

I Gai

Fish Te ika

Ocean Tari

Ship Te posh

Girl Te aine

Child Te merimeri

Come Nakoas

Music Te anene

House Teaus

Evening Te pakantai

I love you Tariginko

Come here Nakomai

Hurry Kuriko

Bath Tepotepo

Akhelóos river God (or Phorküs sea God [3]) and the muse Melpomené (or Terpsikhoré, or one of the pleias, Steropé’s) daughters, inviting and horrible at the same time. The embodiments of temptation, worldly pleasures and sensuous desires: bewitching voiced, woman-headed, but winged and clawed Monsters.

With their magical voices and wise all-knowing, they seduce the sailors, then kill them. According to the most widespread sources there were three: Aglaiophoné, Thelxiepeia and Peisinoé, [4] but according to some legends there were two, (Homer: Odyssey), others put their numbers to three, four, even nine. The other siren’s names are Parthenopé, Ligeia, Leucosia, Molpé, Raidné and Teles.

(..Parthenopé’s corpse supposedly was cast ashore by the sea near Naples, and her grave was long embraced by a cult of honor.”) [5] The sirens inherited a beautiful voice from their mother which they were very proud of. In time however, they became arrogant and conceited, and started competing with the Muses. As they lost, their punishment was to transform into magical voiced but bloodthirsty, half human, half birdlike creatures, who are allowed to live until someone escapes their charms. In their shame, the sirens then retreated to the faraway, hidden islands of the sea. According to other legends, they acquired their monster form as punishment by Démétér, because they didn’t prevent the abduction of his daughter. Still Ovid [6] mentions them as playmates of Persephoné. The sirens also are called Muses of the Underworld.