The ’Last’ Repairs

Part 13, June 3 to July 4, 2008.

2008.06.03. (Day 619)

http://www.devguru.com

Went to the marina office in the morning and collected the items sent by Henri Lloyd Hungary and Hella Companies, my sponsors of the trip. Henry Lloyd sent sailing clothes, Hella LED lights and various electrical parts for the boat. Thank you.

Washed the ship J.  Checked the water level in the bottom of the boat, found virtually no water that makes me quite happy.  Started to review the boat and packing.  Since I was not here for more than a month, had a lot to do. Went to town in the afternoon to shop for vegetables, canned fish and some noodle.

Dan, my motor mechanic is on a funeral, so we determined the day of the repairs on phone: Friday, the 6th of June.

Went to the boat next to me, the Shambhal for a little talk, picture exchanging and to play card.

There was no net in the marina tonight, could not get on.

2008.06.04. (Day 620)

’Fire walking’ (Vilvailaiero in Fijian).  The Na Ivilaukata Clan from Bega (Mbenga) Island performs the fire walk here on Fiji. They have the ’masawe’ – the power for it.

Did some yoga in the morning with Nick, standing on the edge of the marina where there is not much traffic, we were virtually alone. Then meditated in the boat.

Wanted to get on the radio but the HF radio is not functioning, will look at it tomorrow when will have enough space in the boat to work on it.

Spent a few hours on the net and finally could send pictures to my web site – am usually a bit slow with it.

Discussed the motor repair tasks with Mo and Georg in the afternoon. The marina manager allowed me to use the space next to the crane because there will be no crane operations at that time. Mo stated his opinion of the work. In short, it will not be easy.

Was no net in the marina at night – could not get on, altough would have been nice to be able to talk to the family finally.

2008.06.05. (Day 621)

Disassembled the HF radio in the morning and did some testing, measured 12.37 volts at the switch, but the set still did not turn on.  Noticed that the dipole antenna connector got rusted, has to be replaced too.

Hitchhiked to Lautoka in the afternoon. First went to the motor mechanic, Dan.  Agreed on the motor repair plan, he will come to the marina tomorrow at 3 P.M.  Then purchased a coaxial cable connector (FD8.5) to replace the corroded one. Was not easy to find it, had to cover the whole town and had it only at one place.

In case I can not repair the radio, I located a technician in town who would do the work. Accidentally met Szai in the afternoon, went to eat cookies next to the market place. Szai is the nephew of Sam, sometomes we meet like this, drink coffe and have fun together.

Took the bus and also hitchhiked back in the evening.

 

2012 A.D.:  December 21, 2012 is the end of the Mayan calendar. Some think that date is the end of the world. (According to the Moslim calendar the end is in 2076, the Jewish calendar predicts 2240 A.D.)

Many think that it is the year of change. „The Earth itself will transform inside n’ out, prepares to enter a higher level of consciousness. This elevation will affect people as well, only those can continue to live, who will rise to a higher level in spirit together with the Planet.”

According to Carlos Barrios if we will not destoy the Earth by then, we will „rise to a higher level.  For instance the human DNA will experience a large change – Indigo child (some think this is only a fable). It is certain that the sunrise will be different on that day. ’Time of Great Change’:

www.diagnosis2012.co.uk.; http://www.halexandria.org;

http://www.ewswoopglobal.com/2012.htm; http://www.greatdreams.com/2012.htm

http://www.experiencefestival.com/earth_changes_2012

2008.06.06. (Day 622)

Here in the marina there is a constant search for deckhands by 4-5 ships for the Vanuatu-New Caledonia-Solomon Islands-PNG trips for paying helpers of course, payment is daily 15-50 USD.

Got up early morning and unpacked a few heavy items from the ship, then when the tide arrived at somewhat  later than 9, the marina motorboat pulled me to the crane area. The crane operates practically every day except today, so I can use the space.  At high tide, placed boards under the keel. Then tied the front end with 4 ropes to prevent the boat from slipping (the crane area is not horizontal -:).  To prevent the boat from tipping to the sides, looped two ropes under the boat in front and after the keel weight, tied them to the crane. As a security measure, tied two ropes to the mast top too.  On the sides, dampers were applied, but were not needed.  Pulled in with nose first but in this case the boat was resting on the rudder because the place is not horizontal. Quickly turned the boat around, it is simpler this way. (See the Gallery).

A few sailors and some marina workers helped too because to do this job properly, tieing up the boat  in a short time is nearly impossible alone!!

After this I painted the algae killer on the nose because the water level was higher than anticipated. Then checked out what I could before the mechanic comes.  The impeller was OK, tested the water flow with a hose, found no problems. Somewhat late David and Daniel, the motor mechanics came. Daniel worked about an hour on the engine.

The cooler-system pipe over the impeller was clogged up, but he could not reassemble it. He said that a piece broke off from the brass part, then sealed up the hole with silikaflex and a plastic bag – will hold out hopefully for a few days.  Dan did not promise anything, don’t know when is he coming back..... May not have selected the right mechanic.
At the night tide had to pull the boat back alone with the marina dinghy to its place, was not hard just quite tiring after a long day.

Watched these pictures in the evening: http://www.zawar.hu/foto/arc2005/index.php

2008.06.07. (Day 623)

Anoushka Shankar: http://www.anoushkashankar.com

Doing clothes washing in the morning and cleaned out the boat.  Put together the HF radio – the problem seems serious – will take it to the technician in the city Monday.

Got on the net in the afternoon near the coffee house and had fun with friends J.

Also Shambhala returned from a few days’ trip around the neighboring islands, the other crew member, Rick has to fly back to New Zealand – the work and a girlfriend are waiting, and a ’normal’ predictable life.

Meditated and talked, then Rick invited us for a tasty dinner in the marina restaurant. It was the first time here that payed for the food J.  Had some beer and played card in the boat in the evening. Did not lose

today J.  Of course, I would not bet my boat on the cards, am not that much of a card player, however, in the past six months I progressed a lot in this area too.

2008.06.08. (Day 624)

Still getting e-mails from New Zealand that they need crew for a ship. For instance, the captain of a Canadian Formosa 46-er (1977  )looked me up. One can find ships for ocan travel.

Right after got up in the morning, went over to Shambhala for a common meditation. Nick tought Rick in the past few months on the small islands how to meditate.

Unfortunately the WLAN came on only after 11, of course, everybody wanted to get on it (about 10-15 laptops) which slowed down the net to near uselessness..

I eat Biopont rice these days – still have some in this small ship J - or noodles with vegetables and tuna from the can.

This is the fastest, cheapest and simplest, besides it is enough for me.

Got acquainted with Bob (Serenity), the owner of a wooden Tahiti ketch.  His story: he bought it 6 years ago for USD5000 in a very bad condition, fixed it up with his own money, work and equipment.  He is around 60 and has a very painful injury, now he is not working, just relaxing on his ship J.  Has to go back to Australia after 3 months – he is a car mechanic.

Meditated with Nick and Sophie on Shambhala in the evening.

2008.06.09. (Day 625)

Hull Shapes: http://www.sailingcatamarans.com/hullshapes.htm

Got up early in the morning – will be a long day.  Pull Carina on the strand, then will prop-up from the side and when low-tide comes, will fix it with the moror mechanic.

 

Called the mechanic already yesterday to plan for the time of the low-tide on Monday, but did not promise anything.  Called Dan and David this morning 4-5 times, finally got a promise for 3 PM.  The water level should be low by then.

 

Plan for today:

High tide – 1.88m – at 10:42 (a small motorboat will tow me);

Low-tide: - 0.38m – at 17:09 (+/- 3 hours motor repair);

High-tide: - 1.78m – at 23:40 (a small motor boat will tow me back to the matina).

A small motor boat pulled me to the beach in front of the marina, then with the help of Nick and Noe we stabilized the boat. The beach is sandy and level.

(Noe is an American opportunity crew member. His goal is to sail with a  60 foot catamaran to Galapagos-Tonga, then with a smaller sailboat to Tonga-Fiji, and now with a sailboat named Flight to Vanuatu. (Usually pays nothing, but now has to pay a minimal amount for food).

Affixed 2 ropes to the nose and anchored them on shore. Pushed/dug into the sandy soil 1-1 large wooden rod next to the boat side to which we attached the side of the boat. Placed stones on the rods to prevent slippage.  In addition, placed 1-1 other wooden rods next to the large ones for security. Tied the ropes very strogly to boat shell – this is essential. Fundamentally, this is the English method. The ship stood nicely and stably vertical. Continuously checked til 13, since the first 2 hours are critical.

 

In cases like this, the marina of course sends the bill, according to a time scale.  For instance they sent me a bill for charges for the time when I was not in the country, but used electrical power in the marina......FD390 was the charge for 2 months plus a few more days.

Paid until May 19 for a half year for my place in the marina on dry land, but the last month the boat was in the water, for this I had to pay extra.

 

The motor mechanic came and in 2 hours reassembled the motor parts and adjusted the gears.

 

The charge was FD45, out of which the travel was FD10.  This was the time when I noticed that from the 4 motor suspension bolts two were rusted out and broke.  The motor tilted 2-3 millimeters toward the back that was not obvious by looking at it.  Most probably this happened before arriving back, this may have caused the shaft fracture in November at the southern part of Fiji.  Dan did not think that this is a big problem.

Essentially spent the whole day on the strand. Meszaki and Moura came to my strand (’Eroni-strand’) and were talking and drinking a bit.

Was alone at night when the high-tide came. Sam, the security man did not want to come and help me, but I talked him into it. Went to the marina motor boat to the strand and jumped in the water. Prior to this I prepared everything for the action. I, however did not calculate the head wind and the big waves which were unfortunately stronger than the 8 HP marina motors. The motor boat pulled, I pushed, every so often pulled down the mast top with an elevator  rope.  Felt that the wind and the waves pushing me toward the shore. After a 15-20 minute trial decided to fasten the boat. I was left alone in the dark, Sam went back to the marina. Main concern was to maximally stabilize the boat. Proceeded to the shore for wooden bars and a 3-hours-plus work followed in the water.  Left my shoes in the marina boat, I was bare footed now.  Ran with bare feet in the sandy coral-laden strand and dug out the sand under the steering with my hands. By morning my hands and feet were full of wounds, but only one of them was serious on my sole. Am concerned about infection. Fell asleep at 4 in the morning in my sleeping bag.

2008.06.10. (Day 626)

Got up 7 in the morning. The boat did not turn to its side but tilted some and for this reason did not sleep in it. The high-tide arrives at 11:47 – maybe it will be a success then. Everything is easier at daylight because I can see the ship J.  In addition, can find help too.  Norua with the motor and Nick with me were pushing/pulling the boat in the water, pulled it downward with the mast top. At last we were able to push CARINA out of the strand. Success!  In 5 minutes I was back in my place in the marina. Everything was covered with sand – inside and out, it was chaotic. Due to the work on the motor, under and over the right-side coffin bed had to be vacated, so my bed was full of the stuff.  It was too dark after the motor work to pack everything back.

Just realized that this task will be a lot of work too.

Took my RF radio to the technician in Lautoka in the afternoon and purchased vegetables on the city market and noodles in the store.  Had to visit one of my friends, consequently got back in the marina only in the evening. Had some drinks in the club with Ian, a Canadian solo sailor becuse the sailors gave a concert to other sailors today.

Constantly thinking about – how can the motor bolts be repaired.

Stormy, windy sailing (BT Global Challenge 2000): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXuzy0k9mZQ

 

2008.06.11. (Day 627)

 

Sailing categories:

Tiny size: under 4 meters L.O.A. (T.I.N.Y. – This is no yachting:-).

Midget size: 4.01 m – 6.50 m L.O.A.

Medium size: 6.51m – 15.50m L.O.A.

Major size: 15.51m – 24.50m L.O.A.

Giant size: over 24.50m.

A sailboat named Nomadlife arrived in the marina before noon.  Met this ship in April 2007 in Colon and in November in Tonga.

Spent the afternoon with the Canadian sailor Ian, helped him with the repqaiar of the electrical lighting, then sipped beer together on shore.

Later started to restore order in Carina. The ’stranding’ on Monday and Tuesday made sand covered everything in the cabin. In addition, inspected the space under the bed.

Called the radio repairman, can pick up the set tomorrow – was not a big problem, a contact got rusted that I could not find........

Evening: watched a film in the Club.

 

Consulted with my father about the broken motor mounting bolts. According to him it could be difficult to repair them in the boat.  I am thinking that it is possible and it would be simpler and cheaper.

Stormy sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0qbyRWSptg&feature=related

 

2008.06.12. (Day 628)

 

Basically it is a part of sailing that boat repairs and painting can be made during low-tides. The first time I used this system was on Galapagos a year before and now on Friday, Monday and Tueasday at dawn again. As an example, the bamboo rods in my ship serve the same purpose. It is very important to have wood and other material for the stabilization of the boat since there are no cranes on most islands, but painting and repairing has to be made sometimes. In lieu of a crane a sandy shore and a few strong wood rods suffice J.

Different schemes exist to shore-up the boats, but the pictures speak for themselves.

Went to Lautoka for my radio – it had no serious problem just a rusted contact.  Funny, I tested it with a meter, but it did not show the problem.....(FD10). Then purchased vegetables and banana on the market. Back to the marina with bus.

Fuel purchase: 24 liters of mix (about FD49).

Buying water: in two 25 liter tanks (with hypo preservative) and 4ea 5-liter and 2ea 15-liter tanks (no hypo)

Difficult to find the proper weight distribution because in my case there is a large number of mobile ballasts (tanks and packages).

Later had to stop working on the deck due to rain, therefore was arranging things in the cabin and tuned the HF radio to 14 MHz.  Evening: meditation with Nick.

Looking for a new motor mechanic for the problems!

Hydrofoil speed record: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCuP-XHefTo&feature=related

2008.06.13. (Day 629)

Friday the 13th – not looking for a mechanic today!

A short motor test before noon, the cooling water flows, all seems to be OK.

Based on the weather forcast there wil be good weather from Tuesday next week, a low-pressure zone exists until then: rain around Fiji......

Several sailors start out then, who have a private ’friendly’ HAM net too.

Evening: talking and drinking on Nomadlife with Graham and Judith til late night.

What were we talking about?  Story of acquaintances colliding with a vale (the ship did not get damaged), mast fractures and similar accidents among tourists during last year’s Tonga-NZ section, lightning srtikes hitting sailboats near Panama, submarine after Galapagos.

During the transit on the Atlantic Ocean a serious electrical fire happened on the Nomadlife. The reason: shifted battery position and worn insulation.
Vendee Globe 04/05: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjYY1VfyesE&feature=related

2008.06.14. (Day 630)

The first T.I.N.Y. trans-Atlantic crossing trial is connected with William Andrews, an American. Unfortunately my sources are contradictory. It is sure, however, that he tried three times with 3 different boats to cross the Atlantic therefore he can be considered to be the founder of the Blue Water Game (B.W.G.) movement:

  1. 1888 L.O.A. 3.9 meter; Dark Secret
  2. 1898 L.O.A. 3.96m; Phantom Ship
  3. 1889 L.O.A. 3.66m; Doree

 

Purchased fuel before noon, again 20 liters of mix for ~ FD40,

Then got on the net (WLAN) near the coffe shop. Came a larger ship and had to move the boat to a different place.

Afternoon: tried to radio but perhaps because the rain, heard no stations on 14.290 MHz.

Meditated and talked with Nick and Sophie in the evening.

Le Vende Globe (2000-2001): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGIOqigTxG0&feature=related

2008.06.15. (Day 631)

Met today with a French traveler who sailed the New Zealand-Lautoka trip in 37 days with a ~ 100-foot sailboat. Did not understand the reason and perhaps the ship was too old and heavy.....

The first window leaked and I got wet, repaired the seal before noon with a special silicone compound.

A 25 liter container broke again: -1 tank, +1 support utensil.

Found az ant colony on the first deck under the sails – killed them with chemicals, then vigorously washed the deck.

C leaned the three black food barrels, placed them in the cabin.

Afternoon: rope and deck order.

Because my little motor problem Ronil (my namesake) came over – a motor mechanic from

India, heard only good things about him and discussed the repair plan for tomorrow.

17:20 – 19:20: radio and dinner. Unfortunately could not hear Hungarians and just barely others. Will check the antenna tomorrow again.

Sailing the Noth Atlantic: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xX0ZGzuo78&feature=related

2008.06.16. (Day 632)

One has to mind the boast constantly, one of the difficult aspets of sailing.

Fiji national holiday: for the occasion of the birthday of the British queen.

Went to shop in the city in the morning (FD94): 15 canned fish, 5 canned chicken, 5 canned sheep meat, 5 canned bean, 2 kg rice, 4 kg sugar, 1 preserve, 2 liters of oil, 1 liter soy sauce, 700 grams of hazelnut creme, 5 200-gram biscuits, 1 kg washing powder, etc.

By noon was back in the marina, the motor mechanic came too.

The ’little’ motor problem is a special one: two of the four motor support suspensions got rusted and broke. Consequently the motor is slanting, the difference is only 2-3 millimeters but this cold have caused the axle fracture at my arrival.  Want to correct this before my departure. If it left it uncorrected, the axle can break again in an hour. Removing or exchanging the rusted part is impossible in the boat.

Ronil had the original thought that he will make an ’U’-shaped metal piece what he will weld onto the motor holding part under the motor, then stabilize it from above with a bolt forcing the motor into the proper position (see the Gallery pictures).

We covered the motor with wet rags and put the fire extinguisher in close by.  Unfortunately the piece can only be welded marginally, it is an aluminum alloy. The welding would be expensive.

Ronil’s idea was that he will make two hardware pieces for tomorrow what he will not weld but affix it with screws. In that case the two out of the eight support bolts will tension upwards in the wrong direction what is undesirable on the long run.

Went to Meszaki settlement (a village which has no chief) situated before Lautoka on the shore. Placed a hot kura-leaf on my infected wound on my foot. This is better than the traditional chili-leaf tratment of Fiji.

Stormy sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKusg6Jyc9Y&NR=1

 

2008.06.17. (Day 633)

 

8,137 Hz 09:00 LT is the common friendly net in the area and Ian, the Canadian sailor (Africo) uses the same. Will try it too because the 14 MHz has not worked with the Hungarians so far (18 Local Time -19LT). New idea for the repair: will force the motor back into its place with two bolts, for this we have to cut threads in the lower metal, need no welding for this.

Had to go to town to buy four 19 cm long No. 13 bolts with washers, paid FD8.5.

Bought also: tooth brush, tooth paste, soap, coffee, canned tomato, biscuits for FD20.

Ronil, the mechanic did not show up at 2, but finally picked up the phone and arrived at 3 – brought no tools.....

This means we had to borrow tools from the other sailors – was not easy because many do not use metric tools and in the majority of ships no such tools are to be found. Finally Nil, the captain of Koro gave us the tools.  Another problem was that we did not have long enough drill bits – nobody else had.  Ronil left at 5.

Agreed to continue tomorrow at 7:30 – will pay only upon the completion of the work.

Storm sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4oYkF3Ejuo&feature=related

2008.06.18. (Day 634)

Ronil did not come in the morning and did not pick up the phone either.  I felt that everybody is aganst me..... Have to look for a new expert.

In the early afternoon went to Lautoka with auto-stop and went to a shop I knew and used before. Talked with the shop boss who promised to come tomorrow morning and will fix the suspension.

Sailing pairs are trying to live a social life. It is difficult because most of the ships spend only a short time with another ship. Constant movements, sailing and many different plans. In the marina, at the anchoring areas naturally cliques will form (often based upon nationalities and age). The French always keep together, don’t know the reason but possibly due to their horrible English – like mine. The solo sailors  usually group together, they have a common theme. The third clique is the alcoholics, they congregate in the bar from afternoon to the evening. A good bunch, this clique is more open than the average J.

Te average sailing pairs feel time-to-time the need for socializing, for this reason they organize dinners, some times a bit forced.  In my case of course, this does not apply J.

Sailing off of Cape Horn:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3tKql2ePyc&NR=1

 

The Story of My Motor Purchase

 

I am thinking of an outboard motor since Galapagos. My built-in motor is 27 years old and in such an old age, something can happen in any moment. Repair is difficult every time because it can not be taken out easily. On a long run this was not the case with outboard motors. Was postponing the issue so far, but it can not be ignored any longer.

Disadvantages: if it is big and heavy, I can not take it off and on behind the cabin in heavy seas. The propeller may come out of the water occasionally (bad for the motor, it can stall), the ocean is soaking the motor (true, I would keep it in the cabin when not in  use).

Advantage: easier to repair, allow taking on and off and handling.

2008.06.19. (Day 635)

The motorman from Lautoka did not come at 7 in the morning. Was waiting, but did not come. Talked with Brian who is the boss of the local repair company, but he charges a lot. My problem did not seem to interest him.....

I feel I am totally alone and nobody can or wants to help. The situation is bad –FD6 daily for the marina, with elctricty use an extra FD3.5.

The days are passing and I should start sailing.

Sam and another motor mechanic came at noon to discuss my situation. According to me and others rubber seal would be necessary at the anchoring bolts. A repair of this kind can not be made in the ship, furthermore it would be very expensive. Looks like the least expensive solution is to buy a used outboard motor which could be applied to the rear of the ship when necessary.

Hitchhiked to Lautoka in the afternoon and talked to Dan and David, my previous motor mechanics. Could have a used 9.9 HP Yamaha long shaft motor for FD550 in the city, 1 hour travel by car.  Dan would come with me to check it out for free. Still thinking on this offer. Do not really trust them and the motor is too heavy for me.....

On the radio at evening as usual (5-7 UTC), transmitted on the HF radio of my new beighbor (Paul, IRONBARK), but heard no Hungarians.

Placed a note on the marina bulletin board – looking for an outboard motor.

Heavy wheather sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IV5llWEEfAw&feature=related

2008.06.20. (Day 636)

Called Denerau marina in the morning (Import Marine, Mike) and also Marine Power (Nadi, David). They have 2 used motors: for FD2800 – 15 HP long shaft Yamaha; FD2300 – 15 HP short shaft Sails. For me these are too heavy and too expensive!

Visited some of my acquaintances today, they have a farm nearby next to the highway. So, the detour is insignificant, one of my good buddies is Jimmy, the cousin. (Everywhere is a connection here).

Then hitchhiked to Lautoka.

At Asco Motors (Yamaha trader), the new 8 HP Yamaha long shaft costs FD3000.  At Carpenters Motors (www.carpmotors.com.fj) the new 9.8 HP Tohatsu long shaft is for FD2800.

Was in the fishing harbor too, looking for a motor, found an 8 HP motor with boat for FD3000. The motor alone is not for sale.

After a short shopping, went back to the marina taking a bus. Got on the radio at evening (05:20-07:20 UTC) but heard nobody.

Will leave my original motor in the boat and if I will have money, time, and opportunity, maybe will have it repaired in Australia. For this a good shop and one or two good experts are needed, who know what they are doing.

Cruise ship sinking: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BFux2AAMso

2008.06.21. (Day 637)

The ARC World Rallly arrived here this time which started out in January, 2008 from Sta. Lucia (Caribbean). 40-50 ships will sail the world around in about 1 year (til March, 2009), this is a new type of  tour competition. A ship in the harbor (Whitebeard) gave up the race due to a multitude of technical problems (very expensive). The crew is looking for a job now J.

Talked with Brian, the owner of the local repair shop in the morning, but he knows not of any 8-9.9 HP used outboard motor for sale.

Ben, a harbor worker heard of a 9.9 HP Yamaha for FD600 in the Danarau marina, a sailor is trying to sell it.  Waitig for the connection to him, the motor would interest me.

One of the taxi drivers has an 8 HP Yamaha for sale – unfortunately it is inoperative, but is cheap....looking for a good motor because the parts are expensive and the repair requires much time.

Thinking of ordering a motor from the USA due to the low prices there and would not have to pay taxes on it. But the shipping would be time consuming an expensive.

I feel I exhausted all possibilities – Fiji is small and a survey can be accomplished easily and fast.

Water purchase, cleaning, washing and cooking took up the morning.

Again listened to 14.290 MHz at 4 UTC – heard somebody with a Morse code. Have no radio contacts as yet.

Talking and drinking with Szim in the evening. Martha is the name of his ship. It is the third Estonian sail ship circumnavigating the Earth: www.marthaworldcruise.com

2008.06.22. (Day 638)

Bill Dunlop: a 2.76- meter Wind’sWill sloop’s unsuccessful try to circumnavigate the Earth must have been an interesting trip. In 1982, crossed the Atlantic Ocean in 76 days, had no problem between Panama and the Cook Islands....... then disappeared in the vicinity of Australia.

Walked to the First Landing Resort in the morning to watch the World Championship Italy-Spain soccer match. Was not too exciting, expected something better.

Tried to get on the net – was no net in the marina. Cleaned out the space around the motor and reconnected all electrical wiring. Replaced the motor separator walls in their place and arranged the packages on the coffin beds.

Closed up the exhaust opening along with the fuel tank – won’t need them for awhile.

Then Meszki and Frank came. Know Frank since November, he is working in the Denerau marina (HELP YACHTING). Knows a lot of people, may find something for me. Drank some beer in my ship then went to the Yacht Club for a chat with my buddies.

Was in the ship between 16:30 and 19:30, but heard only some weak garbled signals on the radio (14.290 MHz USB). The reason: www.spacewheather.com

Biggest wave of the year: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWoKkaWieE4

2008.06.23. (Day 639)

John Riding: crossed the Atlantic in a 3,66-meter Bermuda sloop. Sailed in the direction of Plymouth-Azores-Bermuda-Newport, Azores-Bewrmuda in 67 days. Then crossed the Pcific to New Zealand – everything was OK. Disappeared toward Australia in the Tasman sea..... (Would be interesting to write a book on the disappeared sailors.)

An advertisement in the Fiji Times listed a Suzuki 9.9 HP motor for FD2500; a 15 HP – FD3000 in Lautoka. They are too heavy for me – 44 kg.

Was no net in the marina this morning, but it would be quite important these days

Applied laquer to the solar panel, insulated some suspicipous spots on the ship. Purchased items in town in the aftrenoon then went to Ruben’s for a dinner. The theme was the same – the MOVEMENT  J. Evening: film watching in the Yacht Club.

Unreal wave sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOcw1Zw2bAw

2008.06.24. (Day 640)

Garry Spiess: in a 3.05-meter sloop (Yankee Girl) completed the California-Sidney trip in 105 days. Average: 70 nm per day. His fastest day was 130 nm! – which is a record even today in the T.I.N.Y. category.

Have to solve the outboard motor suspension somehow, or make a corrosion-resistant appliance for the motor fastening, or make a cheap wooden one.

Have not decided which motor will I buy as yet – is a difficult decision. Of course, will try it first and if works OK, only then will buy it.

A difficult decision, don’t want to hurry too much with it.

Went to my farmer buddy in the afternoon to losen up a bit – to talk and to drink coffee.

Got on the radio in the evening (04:30-07:30 UTC) but heard nobody.

Then listened to an Auckland radio station (9.615 MHz, AM) – is interesting to hear what is going on in the world.

Greatest Boat Crashes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhOV01QkaPU&feature=related

2008.06.25. (Day 641)

Webb Chiles: around the world in 1978-94 with an 18’9” gunter yawl ship – it was a record those days!

Shan Acton: around the world in 1972-80 with an 18’4” sloop – completed half the trip with his girlfriend – that I am even afraid to think of J.

Wrote am e-mail letter to Curley who lives in SavuSavu and is the chief of the local Yacht Service – possibly he will find me an outboard motor.

Nil, the captain of Koro bought last year an 8 HP Mercury for FD2000 in Suva, this is quite cheaper than the rest.  Of course you can not buy this now for the same money.

Talked with Peter too who has a ship company here (delivers and repairs ships), he has a 15 HP motor but it is too heavy and old for me.

Helped Constantin and girlfriend to find a boat for them to Vanuatu, then he translated a two-sided extract of my trip to Russian. They live here for weeks in a house of an Indian and trying to find a ship toward the West, the big target for them is Asia. Got acquainted with a Czeh sailor Romana, who is a masseur and will try to put my back in order J.

2008.06.26. (Day 642)

Talked with Frank in the morning, then called James on the phone who sells motors, but only his wife was at home.

Walked the whole day the Danarau and Nandi area (Martintar).

Niranjans, the Suzuki outboard motor shop: Suzuki 15 HP short shaft (44 kg) for FD2800, has no 8 HP and the 9.9 HP is  also 44 kg – too heavy! 

With my aching back, could not handle the too heavy motors under stormy conditions.

Homemaker: Johnson 8 HP longshaft, FD3800 – expensive!

Court: Yamaha shop, more expensive than Asco.

Nadi has no motor service selling them.
Placed a note on the marina wall in Danarau and talked with two companies (Marina Power, Import Marine) without results. The new Mercury 8 HP motor here costs FD3800, this is the Marin Fiji Mercury agency. Expensive!

Then visited the Carpenter Nandi Division of Asco but their prices are higher than in Lautoka.

Basically 8-9.8 HP would be better, they are between 20-30 kg. The 15 HP motors start at 35 kg - too heavy for me!

Took up connection with a firm: Nadi Plumbing Works Ltd.  Possibly I will commission them to manufacture the rear motor suspension. This is possible only after the motor purchase.....

2008.06.27. (Day 643)

Missed today’s game unfortunately because had to relocate to a different place in the marina. This is my 7th position, they shove me here-and-there if room is needed for a big ship (this is my smallest problem).

Basically I have two options:

  1. NEW MOTOR (the best deal in Fiji: 9.8 HP Tohatsu, 27 kg, long shaft, FD2800 – Carpenter Motors);
  2. USED MOTOR (FD600: 9.9-15 HP, Yamaha, 35 kg, long shaft).

a.   problem: with a small motor (5-6 HP) according to my experience that it has to run at a high revolution which is not good for the motor on a long trip. In 6 months some parts can fail;

b.  problem: the large motors (15 HP) are heavy (35-44 kg) and could not carry them out of the cabin to the rear and back in stormy conditions.

Ideal for me: around 8-9.9 HP, 20-25 kg.

Went to Lautoka looking for motors. Visited the already known places, read the specifications, but did not get much smarter.

Was together with Ben and Mesz in the evening in their village (from that alone one could write a book :-).

Even the radioing does not work! On the 60 ships in the harbor here nobody uses HF radio, maybe just for listening......

Possibly the (http://www.pacsea.org/) Pacific Seafarer’s Net will work (on 14.300 MHz, 03 UTC), but did not hear them either.

2008.06.28. (Day 644)

Washed the ship in the morning and put things in order, sealed some spots.

Got a gift, a battery chargher from a sailor. Since am positioned near the main entrance, everybody stops by, ask questions and take pictures.

Saturday afternoon in Lautoka, who counts, can be found on the main road or in the Park opposite to the marina. Met a lot of acquaintances J.  A rugby game will be today. Something always happens on Saturdays: rugby, bazaar, soccer......

Met Jimmy, Frank’s nephew who is a motor mechanic and has 2 motors:

  1. 15 HP Yamaha long shaft, 1 year old, FD1500;
  2. 9.9 HP Mercury long shaft, 2 years old, FD1000.

Thinking. Will make decision on Monday for sure. The problem is that buying a used outboard motor is risky. Who knows what will fall off, sometimes the repair costs more than the purchase price. In addition, every motor problem is loss of time, the towing is expensive too.

Dinner: kandu, rice and salad (use rice vinegar these days). Kandu is a food from India: squash, onion, garlick, curry, chili, salt.

Tohatsu 9.9 HP: 2 cylinders, 9.8 HP (7.2 kW), 169 cubic centimeter displacement, manual start, fuel 50:1 oil mixture, oil:TCW-3,  27 kg; long shaft, max. rpm range: 5000-6000;

www.tohatsu.com

2008.06.29. (Day 645)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i-HtlQa2I0

Am standing next to Martin (Flat Lady), a large motor yacht. Was consulting with him before noon about the motor issue. Got to buy a long legged motor, this in not the question.

Got on the net, then cleaned up around the ship and arranged the packages......

Hitchhiked to Nadi airport in the afternoon because I am sending a small package home with Gyuri. Was sitting in the back of a small truck with several women who were teaching me how to make flower ornaments (i.e. necklaces) Fiji-style J.

Accidentally bumped into Gyuri on the parking lot, it was nice to be able to speak Hungarian again, the Skype is not the same.

After the short meeting, hitchhiked and walked back to the marina.

In the evening visited Raven, an English sailing ship and talked with Peter (Sydney) on the radio; (report: 5-1). In-between they offered rum-and-coke, for politeness sake, accepted it.

Got invitation to a birthday party in a nearby hotel named Anchorage. Paul (an old kiwi) had his birthday who is the owner of an apartment ship in the marina. Previously was mooring next to him.... Everybody was there who ’counted’, who ’live’ or spend months here, or have businesses around here, therefore live in the neighborhood.

Talked with a farmer before this, walked together almost to the hotel because he lives nearby J.

I was the youngest in the party by 15-20 years at least (more like 30). Free drinks (missed the free dinner), live music and dance til late night. Served cake too J.

Never celebrated my birthday with a party and never will – no need to say the reason why.

Talked to everybody in the party since I know everybody, but did not dance. A few older gentlemen are here who play music, sing together every Sunday, like today!

Had to leave before 10 becuase had to jump in a bar and go to a German ship (Artir, Feeling) to deliver a map – and of course to drink beer.

2008.06.30. (Day 646)

An iron ship arrived yesterday in the harbor and was immediately craned out. Collided with a reef at high speed and suffered a serious hole in the keel. The captain plugged up the hole with a wooden block temporarily. In the morning together with the German sailors (Wolfgang, Szim, Artir....) we were watching the soccer World Championship final, after which they lost their good mood.

 

DECISION: NEW MOTOR!  More expensive than the used one. In about 4-5 months it will be cheaper (after no 3-4 motor repairs, replacement part expenses and wasted time). The used motor is inherently more risky due to the repair expenses, therefore it can be more expensive than a new motor!  Some times a bad motor can cause great damage, for instance in navigating between shoals in strong winds, it can be fatal (the MARTHA case).

Accidentally met with Arvin (Carpenter Motors outboard engine sales) at 9 in the morning, with whom we went to Lautoka together. Looking at the motor the whole day and asked idiotic questions. For instance: the fuel consumption, but nobody could answer.

Alternator (12 V, 80 W) would be FD470, so won’t buy it – would have limited use only.

They did not find the Service Manual..... consumption: 4.9 liters/h @ 5500 rpm.

Due to a little bank problem, could pay only FD1800 today, will pay the rest tomorrow.

Could not find the Owner’s Manual either, will be delivered tomorrow from Suva.....

Was not a successful day , but bought a motor – which means a new beginning!

Dinner: leftovers from yesterday (use golden smiki these days, a piquant paprika sauce). Was no radio contact again (14.290 MHz, 07-07 UTC).

Peter is an old solo sailor (on an old iron ship) loaned a book to me: „500 Days” by Serge Testa (Around the World on a Twelve Foot Yacht). Reading this book in the evenings these days. It is still the record!

http://www.demnet.org; http://www.globalance.org

2008.07.01. (Day 647)

An intersting cultural mixture is present here what is manifested in the food too (curry with chicken kasava), chesa – Fijian-Indian nasi with the alcohol. The original strongly spiced snack (i. e. bhuja) is very popular among the people from India and Fiji. Then the roasted fish pieces and roasted but not so strongly spiced vegetables what they consume with the alcohol.

Bus to Lautoka in the morning, paid the rest of FD1000. Then broke-in the motor with the Service Department: 10 minutes at idle speed, was shown and explained everything. Although these things were not new to me, but are very important – better to hear them again!

Went with Arvin to All Engineering where talked to the chief, then went to the boat with an expert. Took measurements of the required suspension for the motor. Will be made of  acid-proof material naturally (the galvanized version would be cheaper but it would hold for maximum of 6 months only, in my opinion).

Later Abdul, a ’businessman taxidriver’ has shown me a nice suspension for FD130, but had a disadvantage: would have to modify it because the rear end of CARINA is not vertical, the suspension was made for a vertical configuration. 

Peter sent me a nice e-mail from Holland. He has a similar boat (CARINA) and shared his experiences with me. His is a little longer with a double keel.  He uses it on IJsselmeer, a large lake in the middle of Holland. In a Bf. 6-7, he reached 6.5 knots with a little surfing – it is possible if the boat is not overloaded.

'…I have the feeling this is leading to something more in my life. I don't know what yet but I learned to listen to my heart and trust on the future…'

2008.07.02. (Day 648)

The news came today that Ukelele collided with the nearby shoal yesterday. Captain of the boat is Paul, an older Czeh whom we conversed at length a few days ago. Most likely he has to come back to the marina.

Called All Engineering in the morning for an estimate for the suspension. Did not know it. (In the afternooon still did not know it – promised it for tomorrow.....’Fiji times’).

So, we modified the suspension obtained from Abdul. Several sailors helped out with advices. Among the many suggestions the winner was: weld 1-1 small extension (95 mm) on a support rod pair (see Gallery). Price for the two acid-resistant plate welding in place: FD50. The Baboa company charges a lot here.....was thinking that it will be free for me: a little welding for a little boat – but did not happen.

Then refurbished the wooden part of the suspension with polyester and fiberglass.

Evening: film watching in the Yacht Club and got on the net till the end.....

2008.07.03. (Day 649)

Auto-stop in the morning to Lautoka to buy acid-resistant bolts, washers, and nuts – FD18.5 – for the motor suspension, cables for the batteries (FD36), and food (FD20).

Bus strike today, Fiji-style. The Indian owner of the bus company wanted to increase the bus fares but the government (not an elected one, result of a political-military coup aided by ’ratu’, the Fiji chief that is, with the leaders) did not want to agree to this. Here the buses purchase the fuel 10% cheaper based upon an agreement 4 days before.

The strike here is a political issue, not an economic one. The political issues here are always the power struggle between Fijians and Indians and the fight between the political directions. 

(In my opinion the social order with the chief system here is very outdated and is the core problem.

The friction can be felt between the Indian and Fijian residents. Don’t know what is going on here...

In the Nadi and Lautoka areas Indians were denied of the land lease extensions since 1987. Therefore practically all leases expired 4 years ago. Lautoka is the ’sugar-city’, but there are no more Indian people around there, consequently sugar cane disppeared and kasava replaced it...... this means that less businesses and export exist connected with sugar.  Simply stated there is less money since 1987. The cause is a political one what is expressed by the Fijians as: „go home”. Even the intelligent Fijians fail to undestand why an Indian person can be a minister, I have no words for this. Only this: Would be better to leave.

Installed the suspension with Martin and Jan onto the rear wall of the ship, then started to laquer the wooden parts.

Drank beer with Jan in the afternoon.

Evening: eat Hungarian ground meat with rice, a lot of onion and chili. Hungarian-style dinner!

Later baked Appalamt (indian food) into masi.

2008.07.04. (Day 650)

Applied laquer in the morning to the wooden parts of the suspension, continued it in the afternoon. Want to make it well, would not want to do it again after 6 months.

Talked with French captain of Matin Bleu before noon. His ship is an individual-built 48 foot single body ship. Has 2 masts, but has no top sail and stationary ropes.

Invited me to his deck and showed me everything.  The picture gallery starts with cutting down a tree.....and the building took 2-1/2 years. Started out 3 years ago from France and are sailing the oceans ever since without fixed plans. Has an extremely elaborate tool assortment; can repair everything on the ship. Sewed the sails himself, made everything himself on the ship - windows, mast, metal fixtures, boom......

Afternoon: washing (FD5), purchased water (2ea 15-liters plus 25 liters), organized the packages. In the evening drank rum with him and his buddy, then went to the Yacht Club to watch films.

 

Peace and Love,

CARINA and Áron.

 

Translated by Paul Lukas