Bali - Singapore
2008.11.03-12.13
Translation: Karolyi (wa6ypp)
My few days before my departure.
11-03-2008 (day 772)
”It’s rough when you can’t decide if what you wear is a t-shirt or an engine cleaning rag.”
I got the package sent by Zoli and my father. Thank you! In it I found a micro-torch kit, which is a multifunction gadget: a soldering iron, a gas operated hot air generator. There were also special lamps and many tiny gadgets.
In the morning I spent a few hours in town and on the Internet, then I returned the loaned scooter. In four days I traveled 550 kilometers on this small island. In the afternoon I had coffee with my Australian neighbor Jock. He ha a 30 foot long iron boat: LOWINA IV.
Inexpensive supper in a local eating-house. I went back to Carina to sleep. I am tired!!
11-04-2008 (day 773)
Grease:
1. For general use (cheap)
2. Silicon grease (very clean)
3. Grease for marine electronics
4. In my case for the engine the marine grease would be good.
Jock gave me a small water collector and I could collect the morning rain. They say that in the middle of the Ocean the cleanest water is the rainwater. I should collect it myself.
I bought some Indonesian balsam. They say it’s good for cold, stomachache and headache. I like the homeopathic cures like: CAP KAKI TIGA Balsem, HIJAU CAP KAKI TIGA Balsem, OTOT Balsem, and the Indonesian oil: MINYAK TELON.
I also bought several buckets, 2 liters of motor oil for the outboard and rubber hose.
In the afternoon I checked the bottom of the boat. The inboard’s cooling system has problems. At the water intake hose there is clogging somewhere. I rowed over to my neighbor’s trimaran (built in 1967 and she is an Australian designed ketch catamaran. The boat’s name is Akoona and 42 foot long. I asked for a diving bottle. With that I’ll try to clear the obstruction in the cooling system. Hopefully it’ll help. (That solved the problem in Panama.) The owner is a 66-year-old man, Peter. He lives here with his Indonesian wife named Yuli They want to start a charter company. Peter gave me a strong cleaner (porstex), maybe that will clean the system. Also I got two good maps that show the area.
Floores: a volcanic lake that changes color.
Sulawesi: This is the place where both the Australian and Eurasian animal species can be found in the same place. They are mixed together
Work to be done on the boat: a new line from the solar panel to the battery; also has to change the line between the wind generator’s connector and the voltage regulator, (the old wire got rusted and broke).
Evening: Supper and coffee on Jock’s boat. Today’s topic was about staysails. He very much recommends it. The sailing can be much sharper (instead of 55 deg. 45 deg.) and if the wind is from the rear this second sail gives a secure sailing. Carina is small for this, but even I have a small forestay.
11-05-2008 (day 774)
A Hillberg–Rassy 62 type yacht’s voyage on the oceans of the world:
http://hem.passagen.se/yaghan/
Somebody said that this sailboat is the best touring boat in the World!
Work to do in the morning:
A new (Hella) lighting installation with LED (the 10 W lamp in the kitchen and on the writing table is no good).
The injection of Porstex (a strong cleaning fluid) into the opening of the cooling water tank.
Changing the main feed line on the left side.
I purchased 2 tubes of antibiotic cream (APOTIC). Here it can be purchased without prescription.
Late afternoon I had coffee on Peter’s and later on Jock’s yacht. The yacht owners are the most independent people around and they are proud of it. The captain of a large catamaran
Said that if he wants he does not have to put into port for a year. He’s got enough food, repair materials and fuel (diesel) and he also got an electric water-maker. There are yachts where one can stockpile even more materials. The other side of the coin is that every 5-10 years there has to be a major repair done like painting and it is easier to do those in a port, so they, if for no other reason, will put into port and civilization.
11-06-2008 (day 775.) (Half-moon)
Information about mini-yachts: http://www.smallsailboats.co.uk
Work to be done:
4 Cabel repair
5 The exhaust pipe cracked (overheated); I had to shorten it.
6 92 liters gasoline cost: 555 000 rupees (6000 rupees/liter)
Iwent In the city this afternoon to shop for a special small screwdriver and a battery for my voltmeter. I spent a few hours on the Internet (checking the weather and saying good by to the family).
In the evening while I had supper I also met the cook and his brother, and his friends. Started to drink arak (cheap local rice liqueur). Then I went over to his brother, where I had supper again. We talked a bit and I found out that for the last 12 years he worked at the hotel’s laundry and that he has two grown up children.
11-07-2008 (day 776.)
Indonesian language lesson (supplement):
Munkesz – maybe
Kes kes kavari?- How are you?
Hyang widhiwasa - God
At down the ‘brother’ gave me a lift to my boat.
I paid 120 000 rupees to somebody who lent me a dinghy for two weeks.
Things to do in the morning: To clean the bottom of the boat (this will add 1 knots to my speed).
In the morning I dropped anchor in the marina and I bought 160 liters of water for 120 000 rupees. I filled up my new tank, which was placed in the bow, (I became a little nose-heavy). To be in the marina costs me 163 000 rupees a day but I stay for one day only.
I did the usual ‘shopping before departure’ Spent 1 000 000 rupees. This is the most expensive activity.
I had an inexpensive lunch in a nearby restaurant. Many people ask me what is it I eat? Well, I don’t know :-)
The rest of the day I check the boat and pack.
In the evening Dan, who owns a local sailing charter service, gives me advice about the morning departure time.
From a neighboring boat they lent me a book for a few hours. It’s about marinas, harbors and shipping in Singapore, a very useful book and I have to finish it tonight.
Bali, Indonesia - Karimate, Indonesia - Singapore
(21 + 8 days and more than 1000 nautical miles)
According to the wind charts of November and December there should be 0.7 to 1 knot back current and that would accompany me on my whole journey. In November the number of calm days are 9-13 (23-40%) and with varying wind. In December that will be 7-8 days with a characteristically W or NW wind.
The southern hemisphere until the middle of December is in a Spring transition and that causes weak wind, then from the middle of December summer with NW wind and that in my case is head wind. The N. hemisphere until the middle of December is in a fall transition that is weak wind, and then from the middle of the month it’s winter with NE wind. This for me is nothing else but ‘half wind’.
The day I started from Bali the high tide (1,7 m) happened at 5 LT (local time) this meant that the early morning start was ideal, the current takes me out. At 12 LT the low tide (0.7 m) gives the opposite effect the current wants to push you back. The Moon influences these currents. I could read the possible currents from the guidebook illustrations (it is not easy). Moonrise: 13:48 LT, moonset: 01:34 LT.
Rout plan:
WP1(08-32,25N; 115-35,66E); WP2(08-23,9S; 115-43,2E)-Bali’s end, WP3(07-04,7N; 114-53,8E)-passage between the reefs, WP4(05-38,2N; 112-57,4S), WP5(03-31,7N; 110-01,3E), WP6(02-44N; 109-28,3E), WP7(01-49,9S; 108-39,4E), WP8(00-00,2N; 107-09,8E), WP9(00-56,7N; 105-00,3E), WP10(01-10,3N; 104-52,1E), WP11(01-24N; 104-31,4E), WP12(01-20,2N; 104-19,6E), WP13(01-18,2N; 104-09,8E), WP14(01-16,4N; 104-00,1E)
This is the anchorage for small boats: 01-17,3N; 103-55,8E
I made sketches on paper about the critical areas using MaxSea. This way I was sure of the reefs’ position and dimension. The Sailing Club of Raffles Marina (http://www.rafflesmarina.com.sg) responding to my father’s letter offered to pay for my registering fees. POS (01-20,53N; 103-38,22E). Thank you Raffles Marina, Prakash Reddy!
11-08-2008 (day 777)
Bali Travel News: www.bali_travelnews.com
1008 mbar, 35-40 deg. C.
I weighed anchor at 6 in the morning. I am motor sailing and as the current gets stronger my speed is also increasing to 5 knots then drops to 4.
The critical section is the nearby narrow strait, where the current is stronger and the waves are more uncomfortable. I sail near the shore because the currents and the waves are not so strong. The sea is dirty – a disappointment.
Battery voltage: 12.48 V. One of the cables slipped out and there was no charge, The LED of the voltage regulator indicates if the solar panel charges or not. Maybe I should pay more attention to that.
Lunch: noodles with greens, papaya. Apple. Salamat makan! That means: have a good appetite. In the afternoon I motorsail near Bali in complete calm. Quite a few dolphins are around me. The back current starts: 1 knot, 2 knots, and 2.5 knots. The going is getting slower and slower. A few ferries and fishing boats cross in front of me, but they are fewer and fewer. I am getting farther and farther from the Island.
Afternoon: The back current weakens and the wind is 1 Bf. From 330. Shut off engine and take a course to 60.
Supper: Salad and snack.
In the evening dark clouds gather and the lightning is all around. Big ships are coming and going; this is a busy shipping lane. I sleep in the cockpit and every 30 minutes I check the weather and the ship traffic. I have to change direction twice during the night; a big ship was too close. At 02 LT there is hardly any current, but the wind is up again (Bf 1). Motorsailing again for several hours then I shut off the engine and with 2 knots start sailing NW towards WP3. There were dolphins swimming next to me, I heard their voices.
11-09-2008 (day 778).
Walk around the world for peace: http://www.worldwalk.blogol.hu/
1008 mbar, 35-40 deg. C., Bf.2 SE, 2 knots I’m sailing to NW.
In the morning small fishing boats fish around me. We try not to get in each other’s way.
Breakfast: scrambled eggs, snack and multivitamin. (Instead of bread I bought snack, which is cheaper and keeps longer.)
During the morning hours I still see Bali’s highest mountain.
It’s hot! I drink quite a bit of liquid. The Sun burns.
Not long after that the wind stops and the current (0.8 knots) slowly pushes me back towards Bali.
Lunch: chips, pineapple, apple.
Afternoon: weak winds and many calms. Sometimes I turn on the engine.
Book: Fletcher Knebel, Crossing in Berlin.
Radio time: 21:30 LT (13:30 UTC) 14,290 MHz POS(07-36S; 115-14E)
I talked to: Karesz (HA5CAR) 5,7; HA5APK, Tibi5,7; HA0KA, István, Debrecen, 5,8; XU7GL, Lajos, Topolya, 5,7;
Supper: Noodles with greens.
The whole night was calm.
11-10-2008 (day 779.)
1008 mbar, 30-40 deg. C, BF. 0
Morning: no wind. I turn on the engine.
0630LT POS(07-14S; 115-05E), I’m 15 nautical miles away from WP3.
Kangean Island can be seen quite well; next to it is the pass. I want to leave this part (full of reefs) as soon as possible so I start motoring.
Breakfast: poridge, vitamin
The wind is Bf. 2 with rain and bad visibility, then calm again. The sea is flat.
Ships are coming and going. This pass is a ship rout. I start the engine again. Up till now I used 37 liters of gasoline.
13 LT I turn off the engine. Bf. 1 and my direction is NW. A big ship came quite close and that troubles me every time. The Indonesian small fishing vessels come close too, but those are ok. I even like it. I’m in-between the Kemirian reef and the Goa Goa Island just entering the Java Sea. Since I started the temperature is very hot so I drink plenty water. Daily water consumption is 3.5 liters and I also take 3 salt-water showers up in the bow. I do not want to combust.
Maps: 1066, 1653.
Afternoon and evening: total calm, fishing boats around me.
Supper: rice, beef, cucumber, onion and hot sauce.
The whole night is a mess of lightning and there are many fishing boats around me.
Bf.0-1. Sailing direction: NW.
2130LT POS(06-54S; 114-44E)
On the radio I talked to Karesz, (HA5CAR); Laci, (HA7RW); Laci, HA2RI; Attila, Gyõr, (HA1DFN);
The expected wind in the next few days: 5 knots E; 8-13 SE.
Today’s book: Catherine Gaskin, I Know My Love
11-11-2008 (day 780.)
http://www.danielfromhungary.blogspot.com/
1008mb; 30 deg, C. Bf.0-1 SE; the wind now is 1,5 knots.
The autopilot does not keep the boat on course so I steer a lot.
Breakfast: leftover from yesterday’s supper, then chocolate, my last papaya and vitamin,
A small shark followed Carina, and then a bigger one attacked a fish. I saw it all.
Morning: Carina is standing still; the sails are slapping around and the big ships and the small fishing boats passing me by.
Noon: I’m sweating – no shadow – the temperature in the cabin is above 49 deg. C. I use sun-cream every day. The only way I survive is that I drink lots of water and have showers.
Lunch: salad, snack, chips.
The sea is trashy around here!
Supper: noodles with greens, snack and banana.
Today’s book: Joyce Stranger, Flash
2130UTC(06-34S; 114-27E), WP3 is 107 nautical miles from here and I sailed 24 nautical miles in the last 24 hours. I did not here anybody on the radio.
I steer a lot at night and also during the day. Dolphins are swimming around Carina.
Today as usual I was sleeping in the cockpit. At 1 in the morning the rain started but no wind. Later Bf. 1 and the speed is 5 knots!
11-12-2008 (day 781.)
The most Tsunamis are around the Philippine Islands. That territory has the most volcanoes (21 on the Island). About 3 of them are under the sea.
Pacific Tsunami Warning Center, Honolulu Observatory and the Hong Kong Observatory: http://www.prh.noaa.gov/ptwc
http://www.hko.gov.hk/gts/equake/tsunami_mon_e.htm
1002 mbar, 30-40 deg, C. Bf.1; speed 1.7 knots. Direction of sailing: NW.
Breakfast: yesterday’s leftover from supper.
Large vessels are coming and going and followed by many fishing boats. This is the same story every day. Lots of small fish are following Carina. They are too small for eating.
Lunch: apple, chocolate, chips.
I sail by Rass Island, Sapudi Island and Maduri Island.
The sails of the Indonesian fishing boats are always blue so those can be seen from afar. To sail among them is like a time travel – from those times when there were yet no engines.
Today’s book: Robert Byrne, The Dam
Supper: rice, canned fish, cucumber and onion.
I keep fishing, but I’m slow, so no bites.
The wind is from SE –S-SW.
Tonight lot’s of fishing boats around me. Sometimes I see 4-5 lights at once.
2130LT POS (06-18N; 113-52E). I sailed 40 nautical miles and on course.
Radio connections: Karesz (HA5CAR, Budapest); Rudi (HA5HS, Nagyrév) 5-6, Laci (HA7RW, Budakalász) 5-7,
At night the wind is weak and variable. Again I sleep in the cockpit and wake up every 30 minutes, then adjust the sail. 03-05 LT: rain and the wind comes up: Bf. 1-2. I’m sitting outside and keep steering. I am dressed in waterproof garb and steer around the fishing boat.
11-13-2008 (day 782.) (Full moon)
Sebastien Josse, Vendee Globe:http://www.btsebjosse.com
1008 mbar, 30-40 deg C., Bf.0 SE wind,
The current is against me and ut is 0,5-0,7 knot (SE). I turn on the engine. Course: NW!
Breakfast: leftover from yesterday’s supper, banana, vitamin.
The sea is flat. Today’s book: Torey L. Hayden, One Child
Lunch: crab and pineapple.
Afternoon: after running the engine for 2 hours I switched it off and now I’m waiting for the wind. The ship traffic is considerable here too. Later the wind came up (Bf 3) and rain. In about an hour the wind dies down to Bf. 0-1.
Basically there is hardly any wind. One has to look for dark clouds or local showers and then sail into it. When that happens the boat moves!!
Late afternoon I caught a fish, and I did know that specie. The lure was a small piece of sausage. After I completely cleaned it I cooked it in coconut milk.
21:30 LT POS (06-00S; 113-30E); I sailed 27 nautical miles in the last 24 hours.
14,290 MHz: The frequency was occupied but I did not hear anybody.
So far the gasoline used was 50 l. In the last 3 hours I drifted backwards 2 nautical miles. This is not good. I slept in the cockpit. The ship traffic is heavy and there is no wind. I started the engine for a short time.
11-14-2008 (day 783.)
Vendee Globe: http://www.vendeeglobe.org
1008 mbar, 35-40 deg. C., Bf0, there is a 1-knot back current (SE).
Since yesterday afternoon there is no wind. I turn on the engine for a short time. Usually the rpm is low (1500) that gives me 1-2 knots.
Breakfast: I caught a fish again last night, snack, banana, and vitamin.
I do fish a lot because fresh fish is very good for you, better than canned fish.
That type of fish with the aid of a suction cup on its head adheres to the under side of the boat.
0930LT: POS (05-45S; 113-19E)
In the vicinity of Java and Madura islands the sea is dotted with oil derricks so I go around them in a northerly direction.
There is no wind now for days. I use the engine a lot. I’m getting low on fuel. My plan is to motor-sail north to Karimata Island.
1. I hope that near the island there is more wind, (at dawn and at sunset.)
2. The back current is not as strong.
3. Maybe I find a village where I can purchase fuel.
Lunch: Fish soup, snack and mango; I caught a fish again.
Today, the same: no wind. The engine is on and I’m making 2 knots in a NW direction. It is hot! I put up a canvas over the cockpit, but that does not help either. I take a shower up in the bow.
As usual the ship traffic is heavy. Quite often the water around me fizzles and the fish keeps jumping out of the water. That means that predator fish attacks them. Above CARINA birds are circling and waiting for leftovers.
Late afternoon again dark clouds above and rain farther away. Later the rain caught up with me and the wind got stronger (Bf. 3). After half an hour got weak again. In the distance I see the Bawean Island. A Bf. 1 wind lasts until 21 LT. My course is NW, speed 1-2 knots.
Turned on the short-wave radio: 14,290 MHz 21:00 LT POS (05-22N; 113-10E), I sailed 36 nautical miles in 24 hours.
I talked to Karesz, (HA5CAR) and Rudi (HA5HS) on the radio. Karesz transmitted a message from Raffles Marina. This Marina offered Carina moorage free of charge and I also received the coordinates of the place.
In the next few days the expected wind is from SE direction and with a speed of 3-7 knots.
The whole night is lit up with lightning, then the wind comes up, this condition needs close watch. Bf. 3-4 and then after 20 minutes the Bf. Is 0-1 again.
11-15-2008 (day 784.)
Today I became 29 years old. During my travel this is my third birthday. I was 26 when I started.
1005 mbar, 30 deg. C., wind is calm Bf.0-1, SE.
Breakfast: oatmeal, vitamin.
Morning: no wind and I wait.
I’m doing 0.5-1 knots. There are large ships and dark clouds in the vicinity.
I caught my usual fish from my “fish farm”. These fish attach themselves on the bottom of CARINA and so they are always with me. Sometimes they are easy to catch and sometimes not. This is easy fishing because I can choose which one I like. Fishing is important because this insures that I have fresh meat. Carina smells like a fishing boat.
Lunch: banana.
Afternoon: the dark clouds and rain are with me. For 20 minutes the wind is Bf. 3-4 and I’m doing 3-4 knots and then the wind diminished again. Bf. 0-1. I’m doing 1 knot, course: NW.
Battery voltage: 12.71 V. I think the battery cables have problems. Maybe the battery is weak to use it for radio transmissions.
Supper: noodles, fish stew, tomato, onion, cucumber salad.
In the evening the wind slowly stops. At 20 LT it stops and the sea’s surface is smooth. I’m not moving, just waiting. Here the current does not push me back. About 2-3 miles away a fishing boat has been drifting too. I think he has seen my mast light,
21:30 LT POS (04-50S, 112-53E) I sailed 31 nautical miles in the last 24 hours.
Wind prediction: 3-7 knots, from SE. Radio contacts: Karesz, (HA5CAR) ; Laci, (HA7RW); Rudi (HA5HS), Laci (HA5BRW)
At night the wind was weak and variable with a long lasting rain. I was sleeping in the cabin.
From 02 LT on there is no wind.
11-16-2008 (day 785.)
I cannot give advice about a ‘rock bottom budget’ type excursion. They ask me about it a lot but what I know is what is in my log. This style of sailing is called “yachting Gypsies”.
1008 mbar, Bf.0-1, wind from the North. My course is 270, speed 1 knot.
06 LT: The wind is weakening and it’s raining. The sky around me is dark. At least the sun does not burn me.
Breakfast: roasted lobster piece, vitamin. The only time I eat this when I’m not in a good mood.
Today’s book: Alan Hale, Wanted Dead
It is raining and I’m standing still. I’m sailing in almost total calm.
My map is good till Karimata (1066) Island, after that I have to use INT711, this encompasses the Indian Ocean and the scale is 1:10 000 000. This map shows Madagascar, the Red Sea, and China etc. so it is not very accurate.
In the morning I worked out a little. Sometimes I do these to prevent my backache. My life is mostly sedentary and so after several weeks I start to feel my joints. So systematic workout is necessary.
Maybe I can buy gasoline either on Karimata Island or on Serutu Island (Guide Book from 1997). I am about 300 nautical miles from there. The southern part of the island is full of reefs so it will be difficult to get in.
It’s hard to sail when there is no wind. During the night, in 8 hours, the distance traveled was 5 nautical miles.
From the big water tank I always fill up smaller bottles with water so I could handle it better. I do that twice a week.
It was late afternoon when I caught a fish and for lure I used fish liver. They love it.
Sunday supper: curry, fish, rice, orange, and apple.
Today it was raining constantly, the sun did not even come out once.
I am sailing west in a slight NW head wind. My speed is 0.5-1 knot.
21 LT POS (04-31S; 112-45E), Distance traveled in the last 24 hours: 13 nautical miles.
Radio contact: Karesz (HA5CAR), Laci (HA8RD), Rudi (HA5HS), Laci, (HA7RW), Attila (HA1DFN).
At night the wind is Bf.0-1 NW, hardly moving. Lot of rain and variable wind. A tiresome going.
11-17-2008 (day 786.)
1008 mbar, 30 deg. C., Bf.0-1 NW, I’m sailing W with a speed of 0,5-1 knot. My course is W in ¼ wind.
It is raining the whole morning and everything is wet. There is not much wind but the waves are big and strange.
Breakfast: coconut (sari kelapa) and vitamin.
I’m surrounded with dark clouds it is raining and I have a weak headwind. This will be a long road.
Lunch: soup and my last pineapple.
In the afternoon I looked up the islands on MaxSea and I wrote down their positions, the map is not very accurate.
Today’s book: Rumer Godden, The Dark Horse
In late afternoon I am motor sailing for a short time. I would like to leave this rain behind and the back current is strong again – 0.7 knots!
Supper: Noodles and canned lobster.
21 LT POS (04-12S; 112-17E), I traveled 32 nautical miles in 24 hours. Contacts on radio: Karesz (HA5CAR), Rudi (HA5HS). I heard them but they can’t understand my position report. At dawn from 3 o’clock on it was raining so I crawl into the cabin to sleep.
11-18-2008 (day 787.)
CARINA is the smallest Hungarian sailing boat on the sea.
Charles Simonyi’s luxus yacht, the M/Y Skat, (70,7 m long, 13,5 m wide) is the biggest Hungarian yacht. Her max. speed is 17 knots has 16 crewmembers and there is enough room for 10 guests.
1007 mbar, 30 deg C., Bf.0 sometimes 0-1 NW,
6 LT POS (04-12S; 111-55E) The goal is to reach 4WPt.
I’m almost standing still yet I want to sail.
Breakfast: scrambled egg, snack, and a couple of tomatoes, onion, cucumber, and vitamin.
Dishwashing is simple, I put everything out to the cockpit and the rain does the rest.
After 08 LT Bf.1, but heavy rain!!
There are always ships in my vicinity; I got used to them.
10 LT: the sun comes out and even the remaining wind has stopped.
I’m near a reef, (04-04S; 111-46,5E).
11 LT: POS (04-08S, 111-46,3E), I am sailing north and the wind is from NW.
Lunch: the last mongo.
Afternoon: I am, reading and later I catch a fish again!
Supper: noodles, roasted fish, tomato, onion.
21 LT POS (03-57S; 111-50E), on 14,290 MHz I contacted Karesz (HA5CAR) and Laci (HA7RW). I'm expecting wind from the NW or W but maybe it finally turns out to be from the West. Wind Speed: 8-10 knots max.
Propagation is not good, can't hear the Hungarian Net.
At night I can see the lights of Karimata.
Lightning and thunder and dark clouds around me. The strong current pushes me to NE with 1.5 knots. At 23 LT the wind starts to pick up. All of a sudden it is BF. 5. My speed in ¼ wind is 4 knots. In front of me the waves are short and high. They slap into Carina all the time. It’s raining and the visibility is restricted. I can hardly see anything. I quickly reef in the main sail, I had to because the mast started to wobble. I can’t see even the nearby (2-3-miles) fishing boats.
) 2 LT: The wind is still very strong and the rain comes down in buckets. How long will this last? I go into the cabin I can’t sleep in wet clothes so I just close my eyes, but sleeping is impossible: feels like I’m in a mixer...
02:30 LT: the wind start to weaken the rain follows. The wind speed is now just Bf.4.
I can't sleep in wet clothes so I go into the cabin and just lie there with my eyes open.
03-06 LT: I am a sleep.
11-19-2008 (day 788.)
SE Asia: There are 145 000 different type of plants, many of them weren’t even discovered yet. At Borneo there are 200 different species of orchids can be found. And also on Borneo is the highest and oldest tropical jungle.
In about an acre of Malaysian jungle there are 176 different tree species can be found
SE Asia:
More than 200 species of mammals, like elephants, bears, leopards, tigers, orangutans, and the Malaysian tapir.
There are several hundred different bird species and more than 100 000 different insects. More than 200 different reptile species.
More than 70 species of snakes.
1010 mbar, 31 deg. C. Bf.2-3 NW. I am doing 2 knots in a westerly direction.
Breakfast: sausage, onion, snack, fruit and vitamin.
I scooped out the seeped in water from the middle compartment. Yesterday and the day before yesterday the water seepage got bigger and I don’t know why. The hand pump has not been working so I do it with bucket and rags. There was some water in the right compartment too but not much. Here a rag was enough.
11 LT POS (04-03S; 111-30S)
Today’s book: Jeanne Ray, Julie and Romeo
Lunch: instant soup, roasted crab.
The wind direction is 340->330->300->290, this means that my sailing direction is SW. I’m not getting nearer to my goal and because of the constant wind changes I have to watch it carefully. In the afternoon the rain clouds are in front of me and behind me and the wind blows from where I want to go! Carina too wide and heavy to be able to tack easily yet for days now I have to tack.
16 LT: moderate wind (Bf2), but the waves do not change. They slow down Carina. I caught two smaller fish so the supper is roasted fish, rice, moong and onion.
21:00 LT POS (04-10S; 111-24E), Radio Frequency: 14,290 MHz.
I traveled 20 nautical miles in the last 24 hours. I hardly heard the Hungarian stations, but I read in my position in case they received me.
My speed is 1 knot and the direction is 220
02 LT: starts raining!
02:30 LT: The wind picks up, Bf.3.4 W.
03:30 LT: The wind is: Bf.5-6 SW, I reef in the main sail because of the rain. The visibility is bad, (50 m).
05:00 LT: the wind dies down: Bf.4-5, I let the main sail out, but the downpour still with me.
11-20-2008 (day 789).
The Philippines has (Philippines, Indo Pacific Region) the most divers sea life in the world. 3700 species of fish lives here. They catch 12 million tons of fish annually in SE Asia including China.
1012 mbar, 28 deg. C., Bf.4-5 SW. I am sailing to 290 with 2-3 knots. The frontal waves are slowing the boat.
It’s raining and as usual everything is wet.
Breakfast is leftover from yesterday’s supper, canned fruit and vitamin.
11 LT: POS (03-53S; 111-00E). Speed: 2 nautical miles and the course is 310.
Today’s book: Tess Gerritsen, Gravity
Afternoon: calm wind and then it stops altogether. The current start to push me back: 1knot SE.
16 LT: turn on the engine. The waves are tall and because of that the outboard does not do so well, but later it gets better.
Supper: noodles, canned beef, onion.
21:00 LT POS.:(03-43S; 110-50E). Turned on the radio: 14,290 MHz, heard Karesz, (HA5CAR), Rudi (HA5HS). In the next few days the wind speed is 5 knots, W-NW. In 3 days it could be even SE.
At night it did not rain and the wind did not get stronger. Still there are many fishing boats in the vicinity. I sleep in the cockpit and I wake up every hour to check the boat and the traffic.
11-21-2008 (day 790)
Type of reefs:
1. Coastal Reef
2. Offshore Reef
3. Offshore Reef and Atolls
The formation of the corral reefs depend on:
Water temperature: above 20 deg. C (ideal: 25-30)
Water depth: not more then 55 m. Ideal depth is 3-30 m.
1012 mbar and 30 deg. C temp. Bf. 2 N, my speed is 2 knots and the course is 280. The frontal waves are slowing me down.
The shore is pretty close and because of that the fishing boats are many.
Breakfast: egg over easy, snack, salad with mayo, (tomato, onion, salad), apple and vitamin.
08 LT: POS. (03-42S; 110-34E)
My speed is two knots, but the wind is weakening!
12 LT: there is hardly any wind and the sun really burns. The temperature is above
Lunch: crackers and lemonade.
Afternoon: I noticed a yacht and I sailed close to her then I called her on the VHF radio. I asked the captain to tell me where can I buy gasoline close by. He did not really know. But he read me something from the Pilot. The wind got stronger and it started to rain. Later I saw a nice rainbow.
Late afternoon: Bf 4.5 and I am tacking towards west. The big waves as usual make Carina to sail slow and throw her around a bit. Inside the cabin things are chaotic: the cooking oil and the vegetables are all over on the floor. Everything is oily.
Supper: potato salad with mayo and onion.
21 LT: POS (03-53S; 110.23E). On 14,290 MHz I heard Karesz, (HA5CAR).
The next few days the predicted wind will be W-NW with 5 knots.
11-22-2008 (day 791).
1010 mbar, 29 deg. C., Bf.1, speed 1-2 knots and the direction is 240.
06 LT: rain and poor visibility (50-100 m)
Breakfast: crackers, potato salad, vitamin.
Today’s book: Stephen Leather. The Bomb maker
7 LT-9 LT: main sail reefed in and the jib off, (the mast trembled and the sail started to tear. The jib already started to tear.
After 9, I sail by a big Indonesian fishing boat. Due to the bad visibility she became visible when I got 20 m from her. I deliberately go near her and shout:
„selamat pagi and ikan…” I wave and they shout, the rain hardly matters and the wind also getting weaker. I make the genoa ready and then the jib.
10 LT: it’s raining and the westerly has just about stopped.
10:30 LT the wind and the rain are getting stronger again, I can’t see anything. From the fog at about 1 nautical mile away a big ship appears. Her course is not a danger to me and then an other ship appears. Finally a smaller fishing boat appears out of the fog and now I have to change course. It’s raining the whole morning. More and more big ships appear and the reason is that I’m getting near to the straight.
Lunch: instant soup, boiled potato, canned beef.
The sky is cloudy, no sun. The wind is weak, the current is strong and I hardly make any headway and even that is in the wrong direction. On top of all that the big waves slow me down as well. The water seepage starts to build up, now I have some in the motor compartment too. The reason is the rain and the waves.
Supper: crab
The direction of the big ships are NW and this is the direction the wind blows from. I tack crossing this course, which is dangerous, especially during the night. One has to be on guard constantly!!
21 LT: POS (04-09S; 110-09E) I turn on the radio (14,290 MHz.) and talk to Karesz (HA5CAR), Rudi (HA5HS), Laci, and (Ha8RD). Rudi told me that there is snow on Kékes. The wind is from NW and 5 knots. Starting from tomorrow it changes to SW.
The night was quiet. There were fishing boats and big ships nearby. Slept in the cockpit and in 30-60 minutes I got up to check thing out. I do that every day.
11-23-2008 (day 792.)
1010 mbar, 31 deg C, The wind id Bf, 1, direction: NW, my course: 230. I’m waiting for the wind from SW! Early morning black clouds around and the wind picks up for a short time then quiet.
The Sunday morning breakfast: porridge, milk and vitamin.
09 LT: I turn on the engine.Bf.0-1 and the wind is from NW with strong back current.
Later I cleaned the outboard’s sparkplugs and tried to dry my wet clothes. I pour water into smaller containers.
Today’s book: Susan Madison, The color of hope
Battery voltage: 12,44 V
14 LT POS(04-13S; 09-49E)
Lunch: crackers
Afternoon: the wind stopped so I’m motoring. I caught a fish. There are dark clouds around me.
Supper: roasted fish, rice, and onion.
21 LT POS(04-03S; 109-46E), on 14,290 MHz radio contacts: Karesz (HA5CAR). Weather report: from tomorrow the wind will be SW, after 3 days the wind will come from N-NW.
I’m doing 2 knots in a northerly direction.
Night. 02 LT: Rain and the wind picks up. Up till now I slept in the cockpit. Main sail off.
04:30 LT Main sail up, The wind is getting calmer and rain and rain. The visibility is poor and ships are close by.
11-24-2008 (day 793.)
The South China Sea is the biggest in the World. c.1,000,000 sq mi (2,590,000 sq km),
The average depth is 1140 m,/3420ft. The NE part is 4000 m./12000ft. The SW part (Gulf of Thailand, Singapore) is shallow: 200 m./600ft.
The deepest see in SE Asia is the Philippines Sea; The depth is 10 863 m/32 589 ft.
The warmest sea is in SE Asia: 25-30 deg. C. and the salt content is less then the norm. This is because of the many rivers that empty into the sea.
At dawn the wind gets stronger again so I reef in the main sail. Later when the wind weakens I let the sail out again.
1010 mbar, 28 deg, C. Bf.3 NW, I’m sailing North with 2 knots.
07 LT: The rain stopped and the sun came out.
Breakfast: Leftover from supper, apple and vitamin.
09 LT: The sunburns. The temp is above 35 deg. C.
The sea is dirty and the ship traffic is heavy. This is our civilization. I could not take out the trash from the Ocean; it would not fit in my boat.
Today’s book: Nicholas Sparks, A walk to remember
I’m reading and relaxing. The wind gets weaker and weaker. I wished I did not have to turn on the motor today, only 80-90 l. gasoline left.
Lunch: sausage, onion, snack, tomato and crackers.
Afternoon: stable wind at Bf. 3. I’m doing 2 knots and my course is N. It’s slow going
due to the back current and the accumulated algae on Carina’s bottom and the frontal big waves don’t help either.
16 LT: POS (03-31S; 109-36E), I left the Mampango lighthouse. This lighthouse marks the reefs around the area; Singapore is 462 nautical miles away as the crow flies.
Wind picks up. “Reef in the main sail”. Rain, rain, rain. Bf. 4-5. The wind is down again. Main sail back. Visibility is bad and the ship traffic is heavy.
Supper: noodles
21 LT POS (03-22S; 10930E). Radio Frequency: 14,290 MHz, I talked to: Karesz (HA5CAR), Laci (HA7RW), Feri (HA3MQ). There were others but they were too weak for me to hear them well.
Weather report: Wind is W-SW till the 28th then N-NW (head wind) and 5 knots.
11-25-2008 (day 794.)
Weather pages from around here:
http://www.hko.gov.hk/contente.htm
http://www.hko.gov.hk/wxinfo/currwx/fnd.htm
1010 mbar, 30 deg, C, Bf. 2, wind W; I’m sailing towards N. with 1-2 knots.
Breakfast: oatmeal and vitamins.
As I was checking the boat I noticed that in the bow area there is a leak. I do not know exactly where, but my maps and my clothes got wet.
On my computer I brought up MaxSea and checked out Karimata Island. The map is not detailed so I can’t see where the village is, but at least I see the shape of the island
According MaxSea on the SE side of Karimata Island there might be villages and anchorages (Tanjung Dunga):Wpt01 (01-42,2S; 108-53,8E); Wpt02 (01-40,36S; 108-53,6E). According to my guidebook the entrance among the reefs are marked by poles.
At 12 LT. Start the engine. The SE current is strong here about 1 knot and with the sail up I am standing still. I turn the motor on and off. This is how I try to save gas.
Lunch: instant soup and crackers.
In the afternoon I got rid of 5 buckets full of water that came out of the bottom. Yesterday evening there was no rain and the waves stayed outside, so where did the water come from? I think the problem is above the waterline.
In the afternoon I set up the fishing line and caught a fish,
Supper: fried fish, corn porridge, and onion.
Dark clouds around me, but slowly I leave them behind me.
Today’s book: Jeffery Deaver, The Devil’s Teardrop
20 LT POS (02-47N; 109-19E). I’m 70 nautical miles away from Karimata Island.
I talked to Karesz (HA5CAR) on 14,290 MHz, Weather forecast till 29th: 5-10 knots wind from S-SE. After 10 minutes I could hardly understand him and I think he did not understand me.
During the night I slept in the cockpit. The wind is calm and the big-ship traffic is heavy.
11-26-2008. (Day 795.)
’Be British’, that was the last command of the captain of the Titanic to his sailors.
1010 mbar, Bf.0, Motoring. There are many dark clouds around me.
Breakfast: leftover from yesterday, porridge and vitamin, Shower up in the bow.
I sailed off the 1066-map and from this moment on I do not have a map. I know the reefs position that will come up.
Morning: checked the bow compartment. I found only a little water and I get rid of it. I did some cleaning, then dried out first compartment on the right side. Washed my t-shirts (this I do every week).
I installed the new 100 l tank in the bow, but it touched the window and rubbed out the insulation a little. This is big problem.
Lunch: cracker, fried crab.
Afternoon: The wind picked up and so did the rain.
First I just want to reef in the sail but the possibility of a strong Bf, 6 wind changes my mind and I take it off completely. Then I even take off the middle jib (drifting). After 30 minutes the wind weakens Bf. 5-6> so later I put the jib back.
15 LT: hoist the main sail. The win looses its strength but the big waves remain. In the late afternoon even the rain stops, the sky clears and I can see the islands.
16 LT: POS (02-17S; 109-02E). My course is NW. My speed is 2-3 knots, the wind drops: Bf. 4-3-2-1. The rain is just a drizzle.
Supper: noodles
21 LT POS (02-07S; 108-58E). Radio on and I hear Karesz (HA5CAR) on 14,290 MHz.: 29-Weather information: wind from SW, and then it will be from NW (head wind).
At night busy ship traffic and the wind is constantly changes: Bf. 0-1-2. I sleep in the cockpit but not much.
11-27-2008 (day 796.)
Thunder storms. In this part of the world (SE Asia) can be found the most thunderstorms. The whole year is full of them. This is because of the ITC (Intertropical Confluence) and the mainland. In practice the clouds can herald its nearness. Just before it hits the wind come up and the waves get bigger. To me it happens every day since I’m sailing in Indonesian waters.
1010 mbar, 32 deg, Bf.0-1, Calm sea. There are dark clouds around and lightning. The island is 12 miles away.
07 LT: strengthening wind. Bf. 1-3, then an hour later back to 0-1 Bf. It’s raining till noon.
I see a fishing boat near the island. Looks like they are very busy fishing so I don’t want to go near her. I called them on VHF but did not answer. I put the question to them in English and Indonesian: “ Where is the village and where can I get gasoline?”
11 LT: Karimata is only 8 nautical miles away. A huge turtle swam by me!
Lunch: scrambled egg, snack. The eggs start to rot after 3 weeks. I did not turn them anymore.
I know that the village is situated on the SE side of the island and the anchorage is inside the reefs. I do not know however where is the entrance. It is the south side on my GPS. I do not have binoculars so I stand on the highest point on Carina and searching for the houses in the village. First I don’t see a thing then I start sailing east and soon after I see the houses. But where could be the anchorage? Then I glanced at a local fishing boat and turned toward her. I t took 10 minutes to reach her and I asked them to tell me where is the entrance among the reefs to the village bay.
In Indonesian language: village – kampung. Desa means where and dimana means anchorage. Labutan is reef, katang is island, and nusa is big.
Father and son tell me that there two villages here and both have gasoline for sale. They don’t know about the reefs because they do not have a keel. I start slowly and looking for the entrance. I could not find it so I anchored in 1.5 m and started to swim to shore. I don’t have a dinghy but I like to swim. I always feel good when I swim. While swimming I met a small fishing boat and I got acquainted with Harry who pulled me in to the village jetty. I stopped next to the fishing boats. The rice liquor went fast, but I did not have much to begin with. In two seconds Carina filled up with the villagers. They were everywhere, sitting, standing and hanging on to the side. Children came with wooden canoes. The whole village was there. I had the feeling that I am at the end of the world’s last village. I loved the people especially being alone for 20 days. I bought 112 liters of gasoline (1 liter is 8000 rupees). It is more expensive than in Bali. I cleaned the bottom of the boat and started out again. Probably I was not even there for an hour. The wind is favorable (SW) and I am in a hurry!
There are reefs around the island so I go slowly.
Supper: sausage, onion and snack.
A great amount of flies got off the island with me – a souvenir? They are very annoying. The cabin is full of them.
21 LT POS (01-38S; 108-43E). I am 272 nautical miles from wpt. On 14,290 MHz I do not hear the Hungarian stations. I try to get a contact for 20 minutes. I announce my position a number of times.
In the evening I’m motoring for several hours among the islands mainly because of the currents. Then I start sailing!
I’m sleeping outside, in the cockpit wearing a sweater and using a blanket. It’s colder than usual. The night was calm.
Bf.1-2, wind: SW, 1-2 knots. I’m sailing NW.
11-28-2008 (day 797.)
1010 mbar, 30 deg. C.
Breakfast: Porridge and vitamin.
In the morning: steering, relaxing and reading. Later: gas cylinder change in the rear cabin. I have to pack everything out like several water and gasoline containers, diving gear, etc. The problem is that the container is quite rusty. It makes no difference that I painted it with rustproof paint. Besides this type of work on the sea is difficult. The water easily slaps in. When I’m doing something like that I let CARINA to drift with the waves. Later I change sparkplugs in the Tohatsu outboard and clean the older sparkplugs.
Lunch: scrambled egg with onion and snack.
Heavy ship traffic and I see fishing boats too.
Battery voltage: 12.24 V.
15 LT POS (01-26S; 108-08E). Speed: 1-2 knots. Direction: NW. Wind speed Bf.2. and its direction is SW-W.
Afternoon: rope and antenna repair.
Supper: noodles
Evening: Lightning around me. Bf. 0-1. The wind is weak and turns to W.
21 LT POS (01-17S; 108-04E). Radio contact on 14,290 MHz. I try to talk to Karesz (HA5CAR), but he is weak and cannot understand him.
Today’s book: Paul Garrison, Fire and Ice
After midnight the wind stopped. A weak northerly current this time takes me to where I want to go (0,2-0,3knots). In this month the currents direction is variable. Most of the time it against me. Later I start up the motor.
Dawn: rain starts, so I go to the cabin to sleep.
11-29-2008 (day 798.)
1010 mbar, 30 deg, C. Bf.0-1 W, My course is NW and the speed is 1-1,5 knots.
Breakfast: cereal, vitamin.
I feel weak. I am not sick but got no appetite, but even without appetite I try to eat normally. Lifting 20-25 kg. makes me tired. Not so long ago this was not a problem. Maybe this sedentary life is the cause of it.
Late morning the sun is out. Sometimes a big ship passes me by, later stronger wind and rain. I take off the jib and only the main sail remains up. I’m sailing with half wind to NW. Within an hour the wind changes from Bf. 4-5 to Bf. 2 so the jib goes back.
I’m reading (www.transommagazin.com.au.) and resting.
Lunch: Instant soup, mushroom paprikas.
In the afternoon has further weakened, from Bf. 0-1 to 0. The current takes me towards N. I insulated those areas where I thought the water seepage comes from. I started the engine to be able to sail west.
18 LT POS (00-51S; 107-31E). Dark clouds and lightning.
Supper: leftover from lunch.
21 LT POS (00-47S; 107-31E). I am on 14,290 MHz but can’t hear anybody. The band is very noisy. This is the third day without contact on the radio! On 14,295 MHz I heard German sailors from Phuket.
The whole night the ship traffic is very heavy.
040-06 LT: rained and strengthening wind.
11-30-2008 (day 799.)
1005 mbar, 30-40 deg, C. Bf.1-2 until 10 in the morning then Bf.0.
Breakfast: scrambled egg with onion, crackers and vitamin,
Morning: I’m waiting for the wind. I turn on the motor. I’m on 00-38S. As usual close to the equator there is very little wind. I knew that and that was the reason to buy gasoline on that small island. It is always the outboard I’m using. The reason: the inboard uses more gas and noisier. Today I started the inboard also, but still no cooling water circulation. It looks like the problem is similar to Bali problem. If I get to Singapore I have to use a strong cleaner.
Lunch: Crackers.
Today’s book: Higgins Clark, We’ll meet again
Afternoon: Bf.0-1 SW, I’m sailing to NW with 2 knots.
Supper: rice, moomgs, onion, cooked mushroom, hamburger and my last apple.
Battery: 12.45 V. The sun panel is charging well. Today is sunny.
In the evening the wind weakens and becomes a little like head wind. Lightning everywhere. I turn on the motor.
21 LT POS (00-23S; 106-36E), I’m sailing NW with 2,5 knots.
Radio is on 14,290 MHz. The Hungarian stations are very weak; I don’t know what’s the problem. They can’t hear me well either.
12-01-2008 (day 800.)
1014 mbar, 35-40 def, C, - Bf.0-1 NNW weak head wind and the motor is on.
Breakfast: leftover from yesterday’s supper and multivitamin.
Morning: cleaning and reading.
Dark clouds around me again.
11 LT: motor off. I’m sailing W with a NW wind. The current pushes me a little to S.
Lunch: cracker, vegemite (I eat from it every day.)
Afternoon: strengthening wind and rain. Dark clouds, bad visibility and everything are wet. Bf.1 with W-NW wind. Speed 1-2 knots and I sail N,
Supper: spaghetti
21 LT POS (00-04S; 106-07E) 14,290 MHz radio on, I hear Rudy (HA5HS), but he does not hear me. This is the fifth day that I could not establish any connections!
Passing the Equator (S->N) 22:50 LT, 14:50 UTC (00-00N, 106-06E)
I celebrate it with a little rum. I give a little to the Ocean and Carina.
At night: calm, bad visibility and heavy commercial ship traffic.
Today’s book: James Herriot, Vets Might Fly
At night the wind direction changes a lot, From 3 in the morning rain. I keep watch all the time. Sometime these ships come quite close.
12-02-2008 (day 801.)
1005 mbar, Bf.0-1 NW, 08 LT: Motor on.
Everything is wet and there is a weak headwind. Rains all morning. The guy wires for the radar reflector broke. Only one rope holds it. If it would fall the big ships would not be able to see me and around Singapore that is important.
I’m tired. Have not slept much the previous night.
The wind picks up with rain, then calm and rain. Everything is wet and the visibility is very poor. Dark clouds all over.
Lunch: meat dumplings in tomato souse (canned). Onion and crackers.
The main sail got torn in a number of places. At 3 in the afternoon the wind and the rain stopped. I’m waiting for the wind and turn on the engine.
In the Tohatsu I changed the sparkplugs. Calm winds and then a weak head wind.
Supper: leftover from lunch.
19:30 LT: Bf.1-2, the wind is from the north, I’m sailing.
21 LT: POS (00-26N; 105-52E) I turned on the radio to 14,290 MHz, Laci (HA5RW) took my position.
From 3 in the morning the wind picks up again, there is rain and ship traffic and I can’t sleep.
12-03- (day 802.)
1010 mbar, 30 deg. C. Bf.0-1 NW.
Breakfast: cracker, multivitamin.
Morning is calm. Motor on. Navigation check and with the help of the computer I also check the ebb-tide numbers. Again I get rid of five bucket full of bottom water. What could cause that?
11 LT: the wind picks up again. Bf. 1-2 N. Speed: 1-2 knots and I sail to a course of NW.
Lunch: crab.
Afternoon: 26 l/day – 80 l (the new tank in the bow is empty). Water transfer to smaller containers. Vegetables and fruit check. The wind picks up. I reef in the main sail. I do not want to put more strain on the torn main sail.
Bf.3-4, the wind is from the NW and my course is 280;mit should be 315.
On occasions the wind gets to be strong and the waves become high. I’m sailing in a ¼ wind.
Supper: boiled potato (the last one), sardine, onion, and milk.
The wind picks up in the evening. I reef in the main sail.
21 LT POS (00-31N; 105-14E), 14,290 MHz radio on, Rudi (HA5HS) copied my position.
Night: strong wind, reef in the main sail. Heavy ship traffic and bad visibility. Not much sleep. My course is 300, but I got near to the reefs on the western side. I change course but because of the SE current the drift rate to S is greater.
12-04-2008 (day 803.)
Tropical Revolving Storms – TRS
Typhoons: ta fung Chinese word and it means: great wind. This is how they call the cyclone here.
Tropical depression: <Bf.7
Tropical storm: Bf8-9
Severe tropical storm: Bf.10-11
Typhoon >Bf.11
Super typhoon: wind above 100 km/h.
I wrote about these cyclones before: http://meder.hu/bb/viewtopic.php?id=89)
The danger season is Jan.-Apr.
On the Pacific Ocean (NW side) there are about 30 TRS and from that 10 are typhoons.
1010 mbar, 30 deg. C. Bf.2-3 É, Course 90/110 due to the currents.
Breakfast: yesterday’s supper and multivitamin.
I am tired. The wind weakens. It’s sloe sailing.
The stiffener on the right side fell off. It did not brake. It was only the safety nut that fell off then it slid off. While I’m sailing I cannot put it back due to the waves. This is a serious technical problem. I should get to Singapore as soon as possible so until then I have to be careful how much stress I put on that side and to the boat in general.
09 LT: weak head wind. Motor on.
12 LT: POS (00-28N, 105-20E).I’m sailing to E
13 LT: main sail up, but I don’t start the engine.
Lunch: soup, boiled potato and orange. Afternoon: rain and stronger wind, but after an hour the wind weakens.
Supper: Last sausage, corn porridge, and onion.
21 LT POS(00-48N; 105-19E). On 14,290 MHz, the frequency is occupied. I could not hear the Hungarian stations. Later somebody announced that the wind in the next few days will be 5-7 knots and from a NW direction. Then the station just disappeared.
I’m sailing to N. Speed: 2-3 knots.
01:30 LT. Engine on.
12-05-2008 (day 804.)
Today’s reading material: G.M. Ford, Last Ditch
Lunch: soup, cracker.
I’m getting close, but it’s a difficult going. The ship traffic is heavy, the wind is against me and there are strong unfavorable currents. It is not possible to run the engine all the way, sometimes one has to sail.
Supper” porridge
21 LT POS (01-19N; 104-38E), on the radio: Karesz (HA5CAR), Rudi (HA5HS)
21:30 LT: 14,290 MHz. I turn on the radio again. Weather report: wind is 5-7- knots and from W-SW. Big ships around me, head wind and waves! Lightning all around me! What’s next? I could not sleep for one minute. I had to steer a lot.
01 LT: currents are against me. Head winds. I turn on the engine.
After 6 in the morning I can see again. There are large ships around me everywhere and a few hundred are on anchor!
12-06-2008. (day 805.)
Sailing is ”The fine art of getting soaked and becoming sick whilst slowly going nowhere at great expense”
1012 mbar, Bf.1-2-3 W,
I’m running the engine. The ship traffic is heavy. Every 10 minutes a big one sails by me in a distance of 50-100 m.
Breakfast: leftover from yesterday’s supper, vitamin and coffee.
I had the motor on all day, in weak head wind and in a narrow shipping lane it was rough going. The sea is not dirty but everywhere I look there are houses smoke stacks.
Lunch: Crackers and peanut butter.
Slowly I get used to the traffic. It resembles city traffic!! Due to speed limits it is not too dangerous.
Afternoon: It’s raining and the head wind is getting stronger
My route from the city to the marina:
Wpt01(01-15,9N; 103-46,2E); Wpt02(01-15,9N; 103-44,7E); Wpt03(01-14,2N; 103-42,3E)
Wpt04(01-13,0N; 103-35,9E) – in reality this is different from MaxSea! ; Wpt105(01-18,5N; 103-36,7E); Wpt106(01-20,5N; 103-37,7E) – and this is the marina. But to find the Raffles Marina was not easy. Finally after asking a pilot and trying this and trying that I found it. There were a few changes so the shore was not where it should have been.
After 20 LT the current against me again then from 22 LT the current weakens.
At 23:20 I dropped anchor in the Raflles Marina. POS (01-20,61N; 103-38,04E)
Celebrating my arrival I prepared my supper and it was: cold noodles and canned beef with onion. I don’t even know how many days went by without sleeping properly. Yesterday I could not sleep for a second and on the previous couple of days I got up every 30 minutes to check on the ship traffic. Tonight I went to bed at 3 in the morning and finally I slept. The “total tidiness on deck” lasted for two hours then I took a hot shower followed by a really cold one!
My few days in Singapore
12-07-2008 (day 806.)
Jan. 17-21 2009, 15th Singapore Regatta: www.straitsregatta.com
Royal Langkawi International Regatta 2009: www.langkawiregatta.com
Morning at 8 in clean T-shirt and shorts I looked in the office of the Dock master. Cannon who was on duty this Sunday was very nice. He gave me a strong cup of coffee and I sat down at the boss’s computer to go on the Internet. I read my mail.
I also got some bad news that my server will change or maybe it will cease to be www.meder.hu. any more. My Internet pages are very important in what I’m doing. I’m getting a lot of help and encouragement through this and many are sailing with me with the help of these pages. I do hope that through my home page I will help increase the number of Hungarian ocean sailors
I started to charge the battery and started to clean the compartments from the accumulated water. In the afternoon I inspected and cleaned the bottom of my boat. I also sprayed strong cleaning fluid into the cooling system of the inboard.
Evening: I continued to write my journal.
Later in the evening came Peter ( he is a pilot who works in Singapore) with Virag and gave me a Hungarian flag. I showed him Carina then they invited me over to their place. Virág baked me a chocolate cake. Thank you for the cake but more importantly the great welcome!
12-08-2008. (day 807.)
The Monsoon Cup, Malayisa http://www.monsooncup.com.my/
The time was quiet at Peter’s and I could use the Internet a lot. Virág (Flower) cooked a delicious lunch. Thank you for the very nice welcome!
In the evening me, Virág and Peter took a walk in the city, Marina Bay, Singapore River, bridges and downtown Singapore. The evening lights made all this interesting, but for me it was a bit noisy. .
12-09-2008 (day 808.)
Volvo Ocean Race 2008/2009: http://www.volvooceanrace.org/
They start from Kochi to Singapore on the 13th of December. The distance is 1,950 NM. and from here they start again on the 1-th of January to their final destination of Qingdao.
Peter took me back to the marina and Virág provided me with many delicacies. Thank you guys! I changed place with Carina, this time near the restaurant. Tomorrow a newspaperman will come to make an interview with me.
The charging of the spare battery (56 Ah) was completed and I started to charge the main battery (circa 300 Ah).
I borrowed a ladder to put back the disconnected holding bar, then I climbed up to the top of the mast to fix the radar reflector.
I purchased 3,8 l 2 stroke oil for 44 SGD in a nearby store.
In the dock-master’s office I talked to the boss who was very kind to me. In the afternoon I met Charles - an English sailor – who’s yacht is the biggest boat around here (72 ft.). Had a few beers and watched videos. His girlfriend is from Thailand.
In the afternoon I took the free of charge bus from the Marina to the Jurong East MRT (metró). I looked at the stores and the prices and was thinking how will I organize the purchases for the next round of sailing. I had a nice supper for 5 SGD and then a tapioca desert, roasted banana and roasted jackfruit. This was a feast!
Back to the Marina where I used the WiFi free of charge till the morning.
12-10-2008 (day 809.)
http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com
I got up at 10 in the morning.
Breakfast: dragon fruit and guava.
During the morning hours I tidied up Carina.
Lunch: siewtor, and this has to be steamed for 30 minutes.
From 14:00 I held a press briefing in the Marina’s elegant briefing room. I spoke nearly for an hour in English. I told them what my thoughts were about sailing and about the world and I answered the news reporter’s questions. I met Raffles’ CEO. He was very sympathetic, however I do not know how much what I said got understood. To communicate my feelings and my observations in a foreign language is difficult, but sometimes I felt they understood. Later we made a few pictures at my boat. A few of the newspapermen were very kind and interested in my story; there were a few who did not dare step on the deck of Carina.
In the afternoon I talked to the Uruguayan sailors on Charles ship.
Later I bought contact cement for 38 SGD. This I will use to repair the main sail. Also bought a local healing weed preparation to strengthen my immune system (Poon Goor Soe, Dua Orang Tua)
Evening: writing my diary and a ‘no-end-in-sight’ Internet surfing. I even had time to glue the sails,
Many people advised me to start teaching when I got home. I did teach sailing on Lake Balaton for 5 years while I was attended university. I know what it means. It is not easy but a good teacher can make miracles. Miracles are good! Could I make miracles?
12-11-2008 (day 810.)
”Life is what happens while you are busy making other plans” John Lennon
Every morning the marina sends me the local paper: Straits Times, www.straittimes.com
The newspaper is quite long but not too interesting.
In the morning I was gluing the damaged sail and then I went into the city to look around.
The Sentosa Island resembles a little to Margaret Island in Budapest. To reach it I had to use the Metro (MRT). Sentosa is divided to five districts: Siloso Point, Imbiah, Beach, Resorts World, and Serapong.
Link: www.sentosa.com.sg
Siloso Point: fort and a WWII museum. I did not go in to see a museum, and I did not go to see the Underwater World, I know about that.
Imbiah: There is plenty to see here. I only wanted to see Merlion. Next to it is the Tiger Sky Tower, which is the same as Merilion but a little more popular. This is where the Cable Car stops; consequently the place is always full. Later I took a walk in the parks (Dragon Tail). It was nearly empty.
The beach (Sioso) is very clean, sandy and long. There are palm trees too. So everything is perfect. But it is a little disappointing that facing this perfection 200 big ships are on anchor.
Next stop was Chinatown and that was great. While here I looked at the Sri Mariamman Temple (Hindu) and the Jamae Mosque, where the people were very kind. I had a long conversation with some young Muslims about their religion and the catholic/Jewish roots.
My bible knowledge came in handy.
Late lunch: Ah Balling Ginger soup with sesame rolls.
Purchases: Panax Ginseng Capsules (10 SGD). This is good when one is tired.
In the evening I was back in the Marina and was on the Internet.
Supper: duck leg, head and neck prepared to be a little hot and served with bread from Chinatown. Next Chiku fruit, bamboo and rice cake.
At night listened to Radio Kossuth (Hungary on the Internet and then updated my diary.
12-12-2008 (day 811.) (Full moon)
I slept late (13 LT) because of the accumulated tiredness.
In the afternoon there was work to be done: I was mending the sail for a number of hours.
Had to repair the VHF radio coax connector. Charging the batteries.
Late afternoon I traveled by bus to Jurong East MRT looking for underwater cameras. They are not expensive and may be with the help of those I could show the joy of snorkeling.
Supper: Xia Bing, Xia Gu Juan, Popiah, Bian Xiang (Sambal Chili).
I met Benjamin who recommended staying for Christmas. On Christmas Eve there are other programs besides mass, like concerts. I told him that I can’t, I have to travel on. He invited me for a party in Sentosan: Zoukout Party 2008. December 13. He gave me his telephone number and told me to call. His friend has a car and they can give me a lift back to the Marina. Maybe I go :-)
Purchases: 5 kg. rice, 3 kg. sugar, chocolate cream, jam, Chinese honey (Great Wall brand, maltose), coconut, aloe vera and a strong cleaner to clean the motor’s cooling system.
Pasar M’sia: this is a local fruit and those are the cheapest but for me they are great. I always look for new tastes. I also bought Shark’s Fin Soup for 2,2 SGD. It was good.
I was writing my diary when Juan dropped by and invited me to go with him to the Cuba Libre (a nightclub). I was there from 10 in the evening till 1 in the morning. I met a few sailors and locals. Everybody has a story around here, like Mike who delivers boats, Bruce and Tom who are yacht owners and Zek who belongs to the ocean sailor’s fraternity. I felt good among them.
Between 1-2 in the morning while I was on the Internet, came Tom and Mike and told me that still a few beers can be had on Charles yacht. The party is not over yet. I agreed, Charles has 72 feet long luxury yacht made of wood and has 2 masts. This is the biggest yacht in the Marina. I like to be there.
We were jumping from the bugsprit (could not use the side stiffener because there was an other yacht in the way). While doing it we lit a Chinese paper balloon and let it go. When one does that one has to wish for something. I went to bed late. It was Friday night.
12-13-2008 (day 812.)
Early morning Zac came by to take a look of Carina. Later I started to work around the boat and finally I finished the main sail repair. Later came the CEO of the Marina and we talked a little. Nice man! The inboard’s cooling system is working again. The cleaner did the job. From now on I have to start the outboard every week (every Saturday check).
Today is Saturday and many people take a walk in the Marina. Many of them stop and we talk. The topic is sailing and sometimes they give me beer.
I went to see Juan and to Charles in the afternoon. He gives me a few software and music cd.
It was raining so we drank beer. No work because everything is wet.
In the evening Juan and I went to Singapore to look at the nightlife on Saturday night.
Singapore (a city-state)
More that 4.6 million people live here and the Chinese population is dominant (76%), but there are also the Malaysians (14%), the Arabs, Indians (8%), Javanese and bugis.
The English with the leadership of Stamford Raffles started the settlement in 1819. The goal was to protect the English-Chinese trade route.
After WW II the independence movement was getting stronger with the leadership of Lee Kuang. Self-government since 1959.
Independent from England, (the Malayan part: 1963).
Complete independence: 1965.
Singapore is a modern economy based on industry, education and urban planning. The place is multicultural.
The official languages are English, Malay, Tamil and Chinese.
The local slang is called Singlish.
Alamak – wonderment
Boh Liao – There is not anything to do
Heng – fotune
Kai kai – get out
Sian – boring
Obiang – paralysed
Pai seh – Excuse me
Money: Singapore dollar and cent. 1 USD=1,6 SGD
Time: UTC+8
Worth to see:
Singapore Flyer: www.singaporeflyer.com, www.turfclub.com, Holland Village
Rochester Park, Sentosa:: www.sentosa.com.sg, www.zoo.com.sg
www.nightsafari.com.sg, www.birdpark.com.sg, www.sbg.org.sg, Chinese Garden, Chinatown, National Museum of Singapore, Singapore Art Museum, Parliament House, Little India, Sultan Mosque, Kampong Glam (Muslim Arab Community), Sultan Glam, Merlion (the official symbol of Singapore is mythical animal: a lion’s head and the body of a fish), Marina Bay, Changi Village, and there are many parks on the island.
Around here the population’s most important thing to do is shopping
Internet links: www.visitsingapore.com, www.visitors.sg, www.mpa.gov.sg, www.nus.edu.sg
There are more than 10 million tourists arrive here annually.
The top 10 local foods: Bak Kut Teh, Char Kway Teow, Chili Crab, Curry Fish Head, Fried Carrot Cake, Hainanese Chiken Rice, Roti Prata, Laksa, Rojak, Satay,
Interesting rules: a few years ago chewing was forbidden and the ship’s crew with long hair was not allowed to land by the authorities.
The Straight of Singapore has the biggest ship traffic in the world. The commercial ships start In less than 12 minutes interval (1887 data), There are more than 200 shipping lines based here and the ships come from more than 600 ports!!
Buoy system: IALA ’A’ (right hand traffic)
Singapore Radio (9 VG):
HF: 2760 kHz, 4369 kHz, and 8728 kHz
VHF: channel 16.
Transmission time: 08 LT, 20 LT
Singapore Offshore Forecast: 4369 kHz and 8728 kHz, 00:05 and 10:05UTC.
Singapore Port (01-16N; 103-50E)
Marinas in Singapore:
Republic of Singapore Yacht Club: http://www.rsyc.org.sg
Singapore Royal Yacht Club: http://www.singaporeyachtclub.com/
Changi Sailing Club: http://www.csc.org.sg
Keppel Marina: http://www.marinakeppelbay.com/
One 15 Marina: http://www.one15marina.com
Raffles Marina: http://www.rafflesmarina.com.sg
http://www.safyc.org.sg, Natsteel Marine, Ponggol Marina
In the Singapore Straight the ebb tide is very complicated and it can reach 6 knots. The tide in Malacca Straight and the tide of South China Sea meet here and that is the cause.
If somebody wishes to sail in this area then he or she has to apply for a ’PSA Pleasure Craft License’;’PSA Pleasure Craft Driving License’
Sailing Routes:
South China Sea – Singapore: The sailing is the best in the NE monsoon time and when coming back choose the SW monsoon (May-June). In the transition season there are a lot of calm winds and small storms. Malacca Straight –Singapore: Sailing is the most pleasant in the NE monsoon. The sailing routs are determined by the monsoons.
Merlion
Singapore used to be called Temasek in ancient times. This is a Javanese word and it means sea, Temasek was a bussines centert. In the 4. century BC. Temasek was destroyed. Prince Sang Nila Utama rediscovered the Island in the 11th century. When he got to the shore he saw a lion hence the name of the Island. Singapura is a Sanskrit word: singa means lion and pura means city.
The symbol of Merlion Temasek and the modern Singapore is the lion head and the body of a fish.