Maldives, UligamuOman, Salalah

1300nm, 21 Days

Translated from Hungarian by Paul Lukas.

 

Pilot Chart information:

Currents in February: 0.5 – 0.7 knots, Western.

Wind in February: NE, 15 knots for 63%, N is characteristic on open waters, E is dominating near the shores, and frequent windstill near the Arabian Peninsula – 35%.

Anchor points in front of the harbor: WP (16-56.88N, 054-03.08E).

Port Salalah entrance: WP (16-56.88N, 054-01.49E); WP2 (16-56.76N, 054-00.70E); WP3 (06-56.23N, 054-00.30E.

This voyage takes 10 days for an average yacht.

 

2009.02.18. (Day 879)

Indian Ocean net: 8.104 MHz in the morning about 6 – 7 LT.

Fishermen sailed close and listened to Bob Morley at high volume. Doing some underwater pictures without breathing gear. The visibility is excellent, plenty of large fish, even saw a huge ray. A few weeks before at the Blue Water Ralley 47 yachts were anchored here, but normally far less. Since 11 years the yachts stop here, about a hundred per year. 5 yachts are here at the moment, 2 came in the morning, 2-3 will leave today. This is the season in the good weather for the Maldives stop. In case of strong winds, this place is not a protected anchor point. 

Cleaning the bottom of the boat, 1 hour is enough now.

After 10, moved next to the Njord (Boo’s ship) to secure the radar reflector. Tied the two ships together, then pulled me up the mast of the Njord from where I could reach the radar reflector. A 20 minute job.

Then took me to the island with their dinghy. ’Check-out’ (Immigration/Custom/Health Port), shopping (20 liters gasoline, 1.3 USD/l here – it is expensive!, 14 eggs, vegetables and fruit for USD5), and talk to József Czakó too on telephone (RTL). He is calling on Imad’s phone, who is the local agent here.

Talking to the youth on shore for a few hours, waiting for the dinghy. (I have none, would not be any room fot it anyway...)

Start at 15LT. Using the motor in weak wind until leaving the atolls.

1-2 knots at 290 – slow!

1330UTC, 14.293MHz, POS(07-09N, 072-47E), Karesz (HA5CAR 5-9), Rudi (HA5HS 5-9), Feri (HA3MQ 5-7).

Weather forecast: 5-7-10 knots NE for the next days.

Dinner: scrambled eggs, moldy bread, tomatoes, onion.

Finished: ’The Stubble Field’ by Mary Nichols.

Night and daybreak: windstill, only the weak current pushed me toward the West.

 

2009.02.19. (Day 880)

1009mbar, 32degrees; Bf.1NE, due to the influence of India, the monsoon weakens;

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz tablets.

Reading, then cooking.

The steering is squeeking since India, have to steer gingerly or secure it. The problem may be that a gap developed between the acid-resistant bar and the pipe or something, rubbig against something. Should be oiled maybe? Had grease originally, but perhaps got used up by now. The steering axle can only be removed on shore.

Lunch: vegetable with noodles, moldy bread, dessert: ’tala kithul joggry’ (from Shri Lanka).

Fish follow me since starting out. Trying to fish but no bite – I am too slow, not much wind.

The fish were jumping all over me for a short time.

Battery: 13.12V.

Radio: 1300UTC @ 8.182MHz, this is the frequency where Boo, Ian and other familiar yachts sailing                            

in the Maldives-Yemen stretch communicate. Saying nothing, just listening for their conversation and their wind conditions.

1330UTC @ 14.293MHz POS(07-28N; 071-57E), 53nm/24 hours, Karesz (HA5CAR 5-9); Rudi (HA5HS 5-9).

Weather forecast: 4-5-7-9kn NE-E, possibly intensifying in a few days; Father recommends gear oil for the squeeky steering.

Sailing at the moment at 2-2.5kn to 270 in NNW wind.

The night passed in calm.

 

2009.02.20. (Day 881)

http://www.adab.hu

Caught a larger tuna fish at dawn.

1010mbar, 32deg, Bf.1E, my speed 0-1kn. Will motor toward North later on for a few hours.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Morning: tuna fish with lemon and coconut, cocoa; small fishes follow me.

Novel for the day: Aldous Huxley, then popular music.

Before noon:

Spark-plug replacement and plug cleaning of the outboard motor.

Steering oiling (with gear oil), hard to get to but don’t want to disassemble it because more troubles can surface. Squeaks.

Sailing in quarterwind to N, but due to the W-current, NW is my real direction. Bf.0-1 – hardly moving!

10LT, but there is already 40deg. in the cabin. No clouds, no wind, the water is flat and the air is stagnant in the cabin.

Gasoline reserve: about 50l, enough for 150nm.

Lunch: fried coconut-fish.

Reading in the afternoon.

8.182MHz – listening to the acquaintances, but saying nothing. They also have no wind, motoring.

1330UTC @ 14.293MHz – to – 14.292MHz – to – 14.287MHz – the frequencies were occupied, POS(08-00N; 71-31E), 38nm/24 hours in the good direction; Karesz (HA5CAR); Rudi (HA5HS 5-8).

Weather forecast: 2-4-6-7-8-12kn NW-NE-E winds are expected in the next few days.

Sailing @ 2kn to 280-290;

Dinner: boiled fish head.

At night: weak wind, 1-2kn NNW. Slow progress...

 

2009.02.21. (Day 882)

Weather pages of the area:

www.wetteronline.de

www.weather.yahoo.com

www.oceanweather.com

1010mbar; 32deg, dawn: total windstill, motoring to N and fishing for a few hours. Early morning before daybreak jumped in the water and swam around the boat a little, 50-60 small fish following, CARINA is their guide.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz tablets.

Morning: fish smallcake - after 2.5 years a self-developed recipe is created.

Then read a 2 month old ’Straits Times’ (Singapore), www.straitstimes.com.

Weak wind.

Lunch: rice, moongs, tomatoes, onion, garlic, salad, baked fish with Indian spices with flour and eggs.

Fishing – they bite, but the line broke. Saw three container ships – is this a ship route around here?

The top light is intermittently blinking, has a connection problem, checked the wiring in the cabin and cleaned the contacts.

Felt a bit sick in the  afternoon – sunstroke, maybe heatstroke in the 40 deg. cabin!

In the evening took a ’good-for-everything’ ginseng pill.

8.182MHz: listening to my acquaintances again, did not join them. They have no wind, are motoring.

1330UTC @ 14.293MHz-to-14.292MHz, the frequency was occupied.

POS(08-43N; 70-54E), 60nm in 24 hours in the good direction; Karesz (HA5CAR 5-9); Rudi (HA5HS).

Weather forecast: 5-7-8-11-13kn NNE-NE-E winds are expected in the coming days.

Sailing with 2-3kn to 300.

Dinner: leftovers.

The night passed in tranquility.

 

2009.02.22. (Day 883)

1016mbar, 29-34deg, Bf.1-2NE,

Breakfast: shrimp crackers baked in oil – Indonesian style.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz tablets.

Lunch: fish soup from the barracuda catch yesterday, dates, fishcakes.

Afternoon: variable wind, sail adjustments, did not see ships today.

Today, finished reading ’Greenmask!’ (a detective novel) by Elisabeth Linington.

1300UTC 8.182MHz – noisy frequency, can hardly hear them.

1330UTC 14.293MHz-to-14.292MHz; POS(09-36N; 69057E), 1029nm from the target, 66nm per 24 hours.

Karesz (HA5CAR), Rudi (HA5HS), expect winds of 4-5-8-9-12kn NE-NNE in the next days.

At night weak wind, completely stopped by daybreak.

 

 2009.02.23. (Day 884)

1010mbar, 32-40deg, Bf.0-1ENE, 1-2kn at 310.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Morning: müzli, cocoa, reading.

Battery: 13.15V.

Checked and cleaned the right front compartment – a lot of rusted items, lot of breakages.

Lunch: Mushroom with vegetables, rice, moongs.

Vegetable and fruit purchases, checking things.

1300UTC, 8.182 – Ian’s (the Captain of Africo) guitarsolo starts the net.

1330UTC, 14.293MHz, POS(09-57N; 69-23E).

Karesz (HA5CAR 5-9); Tibi (HA5APK); Rudi (HA5HS); Boby (YO2AAG).

Dinner: lunch leftovers.

The night passed uneventfully, no ship traffic!

 

2009.02.24. (Day 885)

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz tablets.

Reading, compartment arrangement, water supply checking (of course, I cook with sea water).

Lunch: puliszka (maize porridge), fried tuna fish, pineapple from Sri Lanka.

Afternoon:

Replaced the toplight cabling in the cabin.

Continuously fishing, the fish was too large and broke the fishing line and got away.

1300UTC 8.182MHz: Ian is playing the guitar and the yachts ahead of me relay the weather information. My wind is weaker but they have not much more either, they virtually motoring all the way.

1330UTC, 14.292MHz, POS(10-34N; 068-37E), 57nm/24h; target: 932nm. Karesz (HA5CAR 5-7); Tibi (HA5APK 5-7); Rudi (HA5HS 5-8); Boby (YO2AAG 5-5); Ernő (HA1TO); Lajos (OE6RL 5-5).

Wind: 9-10-12kn NE-ENE in the coming days.

Finished reading Elisabeth Linington’s ’No Evil Angel’.

Dinner: instant soup.

At night: wind strengthening to Bf.3-4, speed 3-4kn.

At down: a ship in the distance, a nice big fish got away.

 

 2009.02.25. (886. nap)

1012mbar, 32-38deg, Bf.2-3ENE, 3kn to 310.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz tablets.

Breakfast: cocoa.

Before noon:

Shortened the HF antenna elevator rope, it was ready to break at several places!

Fishing and reading.

Lunch: lentil stew, onion, mushrooms, dried tuna fish.

Afternoon: caught 2 tuna, afternoon snack: tuna with lemon and coconut.

1300UTC, 8.182: Ian-net.

1330UTC 14.293MHz, POS(11-21N; 067-36E); 74nm per 24h; 858nm to target; 25kn to 300, Karesz (HA5CAR 5-7); Tibi (HA5APK 5-7); Rudi (HA5HS 5-8); Boby (YO2AAG); Ernő (HA1TO 5-8); HA1SP from Győr, Hungary.

The night was quiet, the waves made progress not too comfortable.

 

2009.02.26. (Day 887)

1009mbar, Bf.0-1NE, 35-40deg, the sunrays are strong, not a single cloud in the sky.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz tablets.

Reading: ’Date With Death’ by Elisabeth Linington.

Lunch: soup, fried shrimp crackers, noodles, boiled mushrooms, tuna with curry.

Battery: 13.07V.

1300UTC @ 8.182: Ian-net, 6 yachts are on motors, nobody has wind.....

1330UTC @ 14.292MHz, POS(11-50N; 66-46E), 57nm/24h; 801nm to target; (HA3MQ 5-7); Karesz (HA5CAR); Rudi (HA5HS); Boby (YO2AAG); OM5OM, Ottó, HA8VA; Pista from Ohio heard me, but could hear him with difficulty due to noise, did not undestood him well.

Expected to have NE wind in the coming days.

 

2009.02.27. (Day 888)

1013mbar, 32-40deg, windstill at dawn and in morning, a 0.3kn current is pushing me toward N-NE.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Breakfast: leftovers from last night’s dinner and cocoa.

Before noon: water supply rearrangement.

Lunch: rice, moongs, fried fish.

Dessert: asanka (with honey and hazel-nut, Sri Lanka style), papaya.

1300UTC @ 8.182 – they are approaching and are over half-way. As most yacht people, began to count backward. Celebrating the half-way point, nearly all transmissions are about this.

I am not used to celebrate it, I like every day perfectly to be the same.

On radio @ 1330UTC – 14.293-to-14.292, POS(12-21N; 065-58E); 55nm/24h; 746nm to target, Karesz (HA5CAR 5-9); Rudi (HA5HS 5-9); Tibi (HA5APK with wire antenna); Zoli (HA7JZ).

Wind for the next days: 10kn NNE.

Diner: lunch leftovers.

The night was quiet, but a large ship passed by.

Book for the day: ’Something Wrong’ by Elisabeth Linington.

 

2009.02.28. (Day 889)

A familiar sailor’s site:  http://www.cloudtwo.zeilt.nl.

1012mb, 32-40deg, Bf.2-3ENE (the wind is weaker in the morning).

Breakfast: fried the Blinjo Tawar in oil - Indonesian style.

Before noon:

Desk rearrangement, reading: ’Down the Mine’ by George Orwell.

Lunch: red lentil porridge, dessert: Rulan cookies – Sri Lanka style.

Afternoon: reading, the wind shifts to ENE.

Radio @ 1330, 14.292MHz, POS(13-04N; 065-01E); to target: 678nm; 68nm/24h; Tibi (HA5APK), Karesz (HA5CAR 5-7), Rudi (HA5HS), Attila (HA5CDM 5-8), Barnabás (HA5ALE), Boby (YO2AAG).

Next days: 8-10-12-10kn winds NNE.

Drank my last beer – a nice yachtsman gave it to me as a present in Sri Lanka.

The wind weakened at night, a large ship passed by but held a 1-1.5nm distance.

 

2009.03.01. (Day 890)

Woke up to motor noise at 7 in the morning – at first I thought it was an airplane, but looking out revealed that a big ship is quite near to me at a 500m distance.

1014mbar; 32-40deg; Bf.1-2, NE in the morning.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Before noon:

Cockpit cleaning, tied the rescue raft after the mast to provide more room in the cockpit.

For lunch: pancake from bread flour, put tuna in the inside.

Dessert: one half papaya – a gift from Sri Lanka.

Afternoon: high heat and weakening wind. Albatrosses and sea gulls are circling around me today too. Read the December issue of the Business Times, (www.businesstimes.com.sg).

Battery: 12.68V.

1330UTC, 14.292MHz, POS(13-30N; 063-53E); the distance is 607nm; sailing at 2-2.5kn at 290; 71nm/24h.

Expected wind for the next days: 8-10kn, N.

Connections: Karesz (HA5CAR); Rudi (HA5HS 5-8), Boby (YO2AAG); Barnabás (HA5ALE), Tibi (HA7APK 5-7).

Dinner: soft boiled eggs, biscuits, noodles with vegetables.

Caught a fish at night, but was lost. The wind was getting weaker.

 

2009.03.02. (Day 891)

1016mbar, 32-40deg, Bf.1NNW.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Leftover noodles from yesterday.

Before noon: ship washing, continuous sail adjustments, trying to pick uo speed – accurate direction holding. Unfortunately at dawn and in the morning could only sail toward W or WSW, the waves and the current are pushing me.

Later on fixed the main sail, received four new patches (there are already 86 patches on the main sail).

Battery: 12.42V – something is discharging it!

Lunch: pappadam (in Sri Lanka style) fried in oil, lentil porridge, boiled mushrooms, onion.

Afternoon:

Disconnected the built-in motor starter and cleaned the solar panel connectors; hopefully the battery will be OK now;

Battery voltage is again 12.84V, therefore I solved the problem;

Bailed out 2-3dl water from the nose compartment, if floods again, will have work on it again in Oman.

The steering is ’wacky’ – have to do something about this in Oman.

Shelf arrangement, toolbox repacking, tool cleaning.

1330UTC, 14.292MHz on the  radio, POS(13-41N; 062-54E); distance: 549nm; 58nm/24h.

Wind of 6-8-10-12kn expected for the following days.

Communications: Karesz (HA5CAR 5-7), Rudi HA5HS 5-8), Tibi HA5APK), Boby YO2AAG 5-6), Laci (HA8DN, Szeged, Hungary).

The wind weakened at night to 2-3kn, sailed to 290.

 

2009.03.03. (Day 892)

1012mbar, 32-40deg, Bf.2-3NNE;

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Breakfast: leftover dinner from yesterday.

Relocated the solar panel to the other side of the ship, now it gets more light!

Map: INT4703; INT71.

Before noon:

Map box cleaning, map arrangement – cleaning the molded maps.

Lunch: rice, green moongs, potato salad, cucumber salad, Biopoint hamburger;

Afternoon:

Reconnected the solar panel to its original place and follow the sun, would be nice to charge up the battery.

Medication selection: discarded the expired ones (Fenistil, Semicillin, Ospen, Amopxicillin-B).

1330UTC – radio on 14.292MHz POS(14-05N; 061-50E); 482nm to target; 67nm/24h;

7-9-12kn winds expected for the next days;

Discussed the battery charging with the Hungarian net and with my Father.

Karesz (HA5CAR 5-5), Rudi (HA5HS 5-8).

In strengthening wind at night got in a BF.4 region, the waves are growing, CARINA is rockig and shaking what makes sleeping hard; but a flying fish landed – a good news!

 

2009.03.04. (Day 893)

1018mbar, 30-38deg; Bf.2-3 NNE;

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Breakfast: leftover dinner with fried flying fish.

Today finished reading Toni Morrison’s (Nobel-price winner writer) book ’Tar Baby’ and ’The Sporting Spirit’ by George Orwell.

Battery: 12.47V, then 12.82 by the afternoon – inbetween and after solar battery charging.

Lunch: dried mango and instant soup.

Afternoon: intensifying wind and poor visibility, big waves splashing into the cockpit.

1330UTC, 14.292MHz, POS(14-28N; 060-26E); 398nm is the distance, 84nm/24h (section record); sailing with 4kn to W; 8-9-10-11kn wind expexted in the next few days;

Karesz (HA5CAR), Rudi (HA5HS 5-7), Tibi (HA5APK), Károly (YO2GL 5-6), Boby (YO2AAG 5-7), Attila (HA5CDM, Budapest), Zoli (HA7JZ 5-8), Richárd HA6ICP, Recsk, Hungary).

Dinner: rice, black moongs, cucumber, boiled potatoes, dried fish, bean germ, apple.

Evening reading: ’Marrakesh’ by George Orwell.

The wind weakened by night and shifted to NE. Caught a big squid at dawn.

 

2009.03.05. (Day 894)

Weatherfax:

New DelhiIndian Ocean, 7403kHz 1430-0230UTC/14.840MHz 0230-1430,

CairoRed Sea: 4526.5kHz and 10123kHz; 0000UTC/0600UTC/1200UTC/1000UTC

Ankara: 3377kHz/6790kHz; 0330UTC/0430UTC/0940UTC/1240UTC/1840UTC.

(Further details: List of Radio Signals Vol.3).

1018mbar; 28-35deg; Bf.0-1E in the morning.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Before noon: cleaning of the big toolbox.

Lunch: fried squid with rice.

Afternoon: tool cleaning and de-rusting; the small GPS fell into the water and sunk immediately.

Lost a GPS, the best one. Have two more, but unfortunately one is very old, the other is a bit broken.

Reason for the poor visibility is the sand from Oman – the whole ship is covered.

In the afternoon listened to radio: 17.828MHz, 13.818MHz, 11.760MHz, 12.095MHz;

1330UTC on the radio – POS(15-04N; 059-33E); to target: 339nm; 59nm/24h;

1-2kn at 280, 6-7-9-12kn NNE/NNW/N winds expected for the next days.

Communications: Karesz (HA5CAR 5-9), Rudi (HA5HS 5-9), Tibi (HA5APK), Boby (YO2AAG).

 

2009.03.06. (895. nap)

Recommended books: Red Sea Pilot, Stephen Davies, Elaine Morgan,

The theme:  The Red Sea and the Aden Gulf from Oman to Egyipt.

1018mbar, 28-35deg, Bf.1E.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Breakfast: leftover from yesterday, fried flying fish, cocoa.

Some dolphins swam by CARINA at great speed.

Before noon: checking and greasing my mechanical drill.

A fishing boat in the distance.

Lunch: Blinjo Tawar fried in oil, then soup with grits.

Afternoon: fishing rod rework.

Battery: 12.8V.

1330UTC 14.292MHz POS(15-27N; 058-44E) , 286nm to target, 53nm/24h.

Karesz (HA5CAR), Tibi (HA5AKP 5-7), Richárd (SP9DTI, Krakow, Poland), Rudi (HA5HS).

Expected winds: 4-8-10-11.

Caught a tuna, ate part of it.

 

2009.03.07. (Day 896)

1019mbar, 28-35deg, Bf.1NE, 2kn, sailing to 280.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Breakfast: fried fish, cucumber, bean germ.

Listening to radio on 5948kHz, then food check.

The battery got discharged a lot due to listening to the radio, have to moderate myself.

Lunch: baked fish, tomatoes, bean germ.

1330UTC @ 14.292MHz, POS(15-58N; 057-39E); 217nm from target, 69nm in the good direction; Karesz (HA5CAR), Rudi (HA5HS 5-8), Laci (HA7MO, Karcag, Hungary), Tom (HA7RY, Fót, Hungary).

Weather: 5-6-7—10-11nm NNE, ENE, N, NW, E, ENE for the next days.

There is a ham radio contest – all frequencies are busy but we hear each other.

Radio:

9400-9995

12100

13570-13770

15100-15800

17480-17900

18900-19020

21450-21850

Dinner: noodles, salad, fried fish.

Caught a squid at night , then the wind got very weak, only the current carried me toward NNW.

 

2009.03.08. (897. nap)

BBC programs in this area:

6-15UTC 11760;

9-14UTC 15575

03-06UTC 9410

02-04UTC 6195

15-17UTC 12095

18-20UTC 5945

19-21 1413

1018mbar, 32-38deg, Bf.1-2 NW;

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Battery: 12.28V, very discharged. Autopilot minimization, steering and fishing.

Later rearranging of the first shelf, cleaning.

Lunch: rice, baked squid (calamari), germ and salad.

Afternoon: Steering and reading, the wind is weakening from Bf.2NNE to Bf.1NE.

1330UTC radio on 14.292MHz, POS(16-10N; 56-46E); 165nm from target, did 52nm in the past 24 hours in the good direction.

Rudi (HA5HS 5-9), Boby (YO2AAG), Zoli (HA7JZ), Tamás (HA5PTS).

Wind forecast for the next days: 7-11kn NNE-E.

Dinner: lunch remains.

At night: weakening wind and a lot of steering.

Dolphins are following.

 

2009.03.09. (898. nap)

’Everything that is not you is an object, it is luggage for the journey. The less of it, the more comfort the journey’ Sri Sathya Sai Baba

1018mbar, 28-38deg, Bf.1E,

Breakfast: rice, dried fish.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Am in a bad mood: a big fish tore off my lure. Have only two.

Before noon: Cabin organization, leak in some places.

Weak wind the whole day, barely made progress – 1-2nm to 280.

Lunch: pie cake baked from bread flour.

BATTERY: 12.32V, the solar battery is charging.

1330UTC, 14.292MHz, POS(16-19N; 55-59E), 46nm/24h.

Radio: Karesz (HA5CAR 5-9), Rudi (HA5HS), Lajos HA8VA 5-9, Tompa, Hungary), Laci (HA0NAR 5-9, Debrecen, Hungary), Zoli (HA7JZ 5-9, Jásztelek, Hungary), Karcsi (HA1ZU 5-7, Budapest, Hungary), Barnabás (HA5ALE 4-5), Gábor (HA7PO 5-9, did not speak with him since January, 2007), Lajos (YU7GL 5-9, Topolya, Serbia), Miklós (YO5ALI 5-9, Nagyvárad/Oradea, Romania), Boby (YO2AAG, Temesvár/Timisoara, Romania).

Weather forecast for the next days: 7-10kn NE-E.

Read ’Sri Baba Speaks XVII’ by Sathya Sai.

Weak wind at night.

 

2009.03.10. (899. nap)

Weather fax: Indian Ocean (New Delhi) 7403 1430-0230; 14.840MHz 0230-1430

Red Sea (Cairo): 4.526,5MHz; 10.123MHz 0000UTC, 0600UTC, 1200UTC; 18UTC

See: List of Radio Signals.

1012mbar, 32-38deg, BF.1-2E; 2-2.5kn to 290.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Breakfast: Biscuits with jam.

Before noon:

Front compartment and under bed compartment checking, unfortunately there was water in the front compartment. The insulation failed again somewhere! Therefore I have to fix it.

Lunch: coconut (did not have it for a long time), dried fish, chili, cabbage.

Afternoon: Clothes arrangement, the zips on my briefcase are all rusted....

See a fishing vessel in the distance, then a white sail. Sail boat!

An iron ship – ’Silver Heel’ (~44 foot boat) approached me and took pictures of each other, had a conversation.

Exactly at radio time – so I could not........

Radio at 1330UTC, 14.292MHz, POS(16-42N; 054-47E); Karesz (HA5CAR 5-7), Rudi (HA5HS 5-7), Miklós (YO5ALI 5-8, Nagyvárad/Oradea, Romania).

Dinner: lunch leftovers with vegetable garnishing, this way all my vegetables are gone! The wind weakened at night, used the motor. A few large ships passed by, but the traffic was not extensive. The mast light is blinking – connection problem, have to fix it in Oman. Full moon tomorrow, will be able to see far. Getting up hourly or half hourly to check the traffic.

 

2009.03.11. (Day 900)

HAM net: Indian Ocean net, Perth, AUS, VK7BO: 1115-1130UTC, 14332kHz; 8104kHz 07LT.

1018mbar, 25-35deg, Bf.1E.

Vitamin-C, magnesium and calcium fizz pills.

Before noon: reading and cleaning the ship, then total windstill, motoring. Following the buoys and avoiding the big ships, motored into the harbor.

On VHF Channel 12, reported the ship’s and my personal information.

Anchor throwing before 12, POS(16-56.15N; 054-00.35E).

Was waiting for the officials, the yellow flag was up, but nobody came. Eric, a French yachtsman took me to shore in his dinghy.

A young Dutch couple was here too, I met them before at Sri Lanka and at the Maldives Islands. Got  beer from them – thanks.

Customs: 15 OMR; Immigration: 15 OMR; Visa: 6 OMR – 36 OMR together.

Got acquainted with Eric and Sebastian who are going back to France with a ~50 foot iron ship (S/V Genesis). Eric went around the Earth in 14 years, stopped at several places to work for a few years.

Battery: 12.52V.

Took me to Salalah town in the afternoon.

Walked in the city; was looking for oil for the outboard 2 cycle motor, but found none – the place was closed.

Shopping: 5kg potatoes, 3kg onions, 5kg flour, 1kg jam, 5liter oil, bread, biscuits, etc.

 

2009.03.12. (Day 901)

Before noon:

In the morning, went to near the shore. Purchased 100 liter water, my supply is about 200l these days.

Insulating, fixing in the front, polyester and glass fiber work.

Rope works.

Many came to my ship asking questions, conversing. The people around here are rich but most of them do not buy yachts and do not know the ’sailing adventure’ category.

Afternoon:

Cleaned the ship bottom in the water for 2 hours, is completely covered with algae – they grow fast in the Indian Ocean!

Gasoline purchase: 113 liter, 0.115 OMR liter, paid 12,800 what corresponds approximately to USD30. I think the fuel is the cheapest here in the whole world.

Graham with his rented car helped me back from the gasoline pump from a 6km distance.

The Port Police came to my ship. I can not stay here, have to move back to anchor. Have no dinghy...... Port Control order, OK, will talk to them – may even beg them :-). Took a little presentation of my voyage to the Harbor Captain and to the Manager. (They have no superiors.) They listened with interest and asked questions – since they are sailors and understand the sea and the difficulties.

„Why are you doing this? Are you getting money for this?”

Basically most of the people’s goal is money, for this reason were the questions asked.

„Love to sail. Everything is simple and peaceful. Get no money from anybody for this.”

„How come, you still have coverage for this?”

„Basically, I have none. Some times somebody likes what I do and sends money. Before my journey, I saved some money, accepted smaller jobs, but after 2-1/2 years have no more money and until I get home, there is no prospect for work.”

USD100 would have been if mooring next to the shore. But they waved the fee – maybe because felt sorry for me, or they liked my presentation. This is the way they helped.

Dinner in the harbor canteen: beef curry for 0.500 OMR.

Early evening in the Oasis Sailing Club did some interneting for an hour for 0.700, talked to several sailors. In the evening watched James Bond (DVD) on an Oman freight ship, sipping tea with Somali, Indian fishermen, and with Adi, who came from Zanzibar. Exchanged DVDs. Now have some traditional African music!

At night, writing the  diary til 4 in the morning, for this I needed a little coffee, of course.

 

2009.03.13. (Day 902)

Before noon:

Insulating in the front, searching for the spot where water leaked in, caulked.

Steering oiling – it squeaked. Since it had a gap, filled the worn metal parts with metal pieces.

Then coffee with Adi aboard the CARINA.

The fishermen gave me a fish what Adi fried for me. Was very good – thanks a lot!

Afternoon:

Moved near a  fishing ship, but could not reach the mast light, so talked to Ibrahim, a Captain from Yemen who owns a big iron fishing boat and is higher, will try it tomorrow, maybe can reach it from there. His boat is higher than the other fishing boats.

Then relaxation.

Swam at the strand and did underwater swimming without gear. Have no coral here, just fish, but not too many.

Then walked around, the whole place to me is a desert.

Dinner in the harbor cook-shop for 0.500, about USD1.1.

Went to Robert’s 51-foot ship at 6 in the evening for his birthday (66) party. All sailors were there from the 6 ships – many-many sailors. The conversation theme was sailing and the Somalian pirates. Robert lost his passport in the afternoon, I took it back to him. He was happy! Birthday present, or something similar. Only a little magic – I said :-)

Typed the diary at night and talked with the Indian sailors.

Fish curry:

1.     cut onion to small pieces, bake in oil;

2.     cut tomatoes in it;

3.     add crushed garlic, ginger, and chili;

4.     add salt, 1 teaspoonful of chili,1/2 teaspoon coriander,1/2 turmeric, then a glass of water and the fish.

 

2009.03.14. (Day 903)

Went over to Adi in the morning who baked fish for me. He said that the crew of the Somalian ship is my family with a Captain from Yemen. It felt very good.

He bought a mobil yesterday and I helped to program it, he was very happy.

Explained to him the operation for an hour, but not sure he understood it, but then the experience......

Before noon:

Pulled in next to the big fishing boat for the mast light repair. Yesterday I used a smaller boat, and could not reach the mast top (6.5m).

Was easy from here, 2 hours of work in the heat. Then tea in the ship canteen with the crew.

A yacht went to buy fuel and bought 29l for me for USD8.00.

Quo Vadis – a New Zealand aluminum yacht returned after 2 days, came back yesterday. Water seeps in the gear box, did not find the reason.

An acquaintance took me to town in the afternoon..

Purchased: 2-stroke outboard oil,; food; xeroxed a ship letter, the passport, walked in the town. Dinner in a cheap local cook-out for 0.600, (USD1.5). Internet almost the whole night – pictures/videos downloaded to meder.hu.

Lebanini or Kobos – local Oman small roti;

Kerla – large roti;

Saorma, Santucs – grilled meat, Oman food;

Matan – cattle;

Digagchiken.

 

Oman

Sultanate three times the size of Hungary on the south east part of the Arab Peninsula. Belongs to it the Hormuz-straight „ supervisory”, one time known as the Pirate-shore Musandam peninsula.

The country on the south east part of the Arab Peninsula is bleak, meets the Arab Sea and the Oman Bay with an unpopulated shore. The Oman mountains running parallel with the shore occupying the north part of the country, the Kara-mountain eastern extensions are situated on the south side. Large part of the country is desert. Highest point: Djebel-es-Sam, 3352m.

The occupants of the territory of the country of today developed the irrigating agriculture and sailing to a high level already 4 thousand years before our calendar. From the 6th century B.C. until the arrival of the Islam in the 7th century, the country was owned or fell under the influence of three Iranian dynasties. These are: the Achamaida, the Parthus and the Sassanids.

The Islam spread in Oman even during the life of Mohammed. Its territory was annexed to the Arab Empire in 634 and in the 8th century the predecessors of the present population, the Haridjites became independent under the command of their imam. The Portuguese appeared in 1508 and occupied them. Maskat was in their possession from 1508 until 1648, for 140 years. With the security of the sea lanes the Europeans fortified the city where the remains of the colonial architecture are still exist. The Prtuguese regime was taken over by the Osman Empire in 1650. The founder of the present dynasty was Ahmed bin Said in 1741 who achieved the independence of the territory, unified the country, even occupied the Island of Zanzibar. In the second half of the 19th century the British set foot in the area and in 1891 they forced a protectorate treaty on Maskat and the Osman Sultanate whose independence became a mere formality. The tribes living in the inland of the country rebelled against the British rule and declared the independent Omam Imamate. This was accepted by the Maskat of the shore area, Great Britain and the Sultan of Oman as well after a 7-year bloody war. In 1951 the troops of Said Sultan with the help of the army of England occupied the whole territory of the Imamate. The reign of Said resembled the darkest middle ages. Slavery became general, he looked upon the oil treasure of the country as his personal property. The heir Kabus, after completing his studies in Oxford tried to talk his father into a more moderate reform politics. When he failed in this, grabbed the power through a quiet coup d’etat in 1970. Until 1970 the country consisted of two parts: the Maskat and Oman Sultanate and the Oman Imamate which were unified under the reign of the new Sultan.

 

Salalah

One of the most attractive travel destinations of the Middle East is Oman where the eastern comfort, the high mountains, the beautiful sea shores and the extraordinary desert areas can equally be found. In Oman, the survived traditions of the old civilization and the modern development achievements exist in perfect harmony. In this country which can be found in the vicinity of  the United Arab Emirates on the shores of the Oman Gulf and the Arab Sea – one can get acquainted with the mesmerizing culture of the East, their art, historical remains, and nature environment. All the beauty here is worth to experience from closer aspects - the proud and glorious past, its present achievements and the hopeful future. The Oman Sultanate can be found on the south east part of the Arab Peninsula. This one-time insulated, mistical world provided amazement to the travelers, because beside the usual, vast desert the area is characterized by beutiful mountain ranges, lush green areas, small gulfs and oasis’s, as well as crystal-clear, deep blue sea. This rich-in-tradition-and-culture country in our days provides first class hotels and strands, waiting for the active, as well as the passive, relaxation seeker tourists. The friendly hospitality, the high level of services, the variable and multicolored program possibilities convince more and more people to spend their time at this place for vacationing, relaxing.

Useful information:

Visa: For Hungarian citizens entering the Oman Sultanate visa is necessary. The passport must be valid for 6 months from the date of arrival. The visa fee is to be paid on the Oman airport upon arrival. Fee is USD16 per person or 6 Rial per person. (IMPORTANT: there is no business on Fridays!)

Time zone: + 3 hours.
Weather, dressing: 35-45 C from May to September, 20-30 C from October to March. Advisable to take light clothing, although there is air conditioning in the buildings, so take a jacket too. The ladies should not wear short skirts or pants, but if only the knees show, nobody objects. Entering a minaret requires shawl covering the shoulders, clothing must cover the knees. Open, well ventilated shoes are recommended.

House current: 220/240 Volts.
Money change: the local money is Rial (1 OMR = USD2.6). Exchange places are on the airport and in the hotels.
USD is accepted everywhere, but is more expensive for shopping, they return Rials as change.

Shopping: The prices on the markets and bazaars are cheap, especially for folk art objects, spices, traditional Arab clothing. There are shopping centers also where one can buy everything.
Transportation: One can use taxi, but can rent a car too with acceptable prices, their driving culture is blameless. Have an extensive road system, more emphasis on the auto roads.

Telephone: the Hungarian mobil phones are not working there, one can make calls from the hotels.

Meals: The Indian and Lebanonese foods are the favorites in Oman, so one can sample these first. The hotels serve European food. The prices are cheap in self-serving restaurants (Automatic Reataurant) for good food (about 2-3 OMR). A lunch for 2 in a hotel or in  a restaurant is about 15 OMR, dinner for 2 is about 18 OMR. Alcoholic drinks can be had in hotels and in bars but are somewhat expensive (a glass of beer: 1-2 OMR, refreshing drink ~1-2 OMR also).
Bathing: One can bathe on the public strands, most hotels have private seaside strands, the city dwellers have Beach Clubs where it is more comfortable. Toplessing around on hotel property is forbidden. Use of strongly protecting sunscreen is advisable.

Photography: Can take pictures of all things, but for people, especially for women, permission should be obtained. Dependent on the whims of the palace guards of the Sultan will decide whether you can take a picture or not.
Public safety: Excellent, you can walk safely in day or night.

Facultative programs: Advisable to take a cap with you against the strong sun. It would not hurt to take with you on outings warmer upper clothing since the buildings and cars are air conditioned. Take bathing clothing and sunscreen with you when going into Wadi. In the desert it is very important to have a head cover and shoes from which you can shake out the sand.
Mina Qaboos (
Muscat)  -  small marina.

Call Port Control on VHF 16 half an hour before entering harbor, they will advise about any big ship movements and direct you where to anchor. The Port Control officers track you on radar and make your course corrections for you. They will also notify the officials who will come to the boat. If necessary it is ok to go ashore and visit the immigration and customs building, though it is quite a long walk. The Royal Oman Police will keep passports until departure; you are now expected to get visas (OR6 each) and pay a cruising fee (OR15 per yacht). You must present a clearance certificate from your previous port or face a fine of OR1500.

No longer allowed to pay Customs/Immigration fees by cash.

The authorities are reported to not be keen on yachts being left unattended while you travel inland or leave the country, so it is advisable to arrange for someone to keep on eye on the boat while you are away.

Mohammed Saad offers services to yachts such as helping obtain fuel and car rental (very useful for getting about); he will also look after the yacht if it is to be left.

Mohammed Saad
gasboob@hotmail.com

Port Control (VHF Ch. 16) will advise on where to anchor. The holding in the harbor is not always good in anything of a wind.

A small building next to the dinghy landing has basic facilities: shower, toilet, hand laundry facilities and water. It will be locked so ask at the Port Police office for a key. Although not a yacht club, the Oasis Club, situated just outside the port gates, is reported to be very welcoming to visiting yachties, providing great food, alcohol and WiFi. Contact marina on Channel 16. The marina office will contact the relevant officials for clearance. Visiting yachts are charged according to their LOA (not as previously reported on Noonsite). However, as the marina is nearly full with yearly berth holders, if a yacht is much smaller than the long term berth available it may be necessary to pay for the size of the berth and not of the yacht, if one wants to make sure that this berth would be guaranteed. Although the marina is almost full, marina manager Bob Looker bob@marinaoman.com will always ensure visitors can have a berth. There is water and electricity to all berths in the marina. Good restaurant and bar, and communication facilities exist as well.

Marina Bander Al Rowdha
P.O. Box 940,
Muscat 113, Oman
Tel:737288/ 291, Fax:737285
marina@omantel.net.om
Travel lift and some small repairs possible. Some toilets and showers, restaurant, limited chandlery. 20 minute taxi ride to good hotels and shops.

Mina Qaboos Port
Tel:+968-714001, VHF Channel 12

Anchorage Info.
16 56.23N 54 00.30E
4.5m average depth, sand over very hard-packed base.
Very tight anchorage with poor holding, boats dragging in light winds, sheltered but in commercial port.

Links:

http://www.omanet.om/english/home.asp

http://www.destinationoman.com/

http://oman.lap.hu/

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/oman

http://www.worldtravelguide.net/country/213/country_guide/Middle-East/Oman.html

http://www.omantourism.gov.om/

http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0107856.html

 

There was a cold January morning when a man stopped in a Washington, D.C. metro station and started to play a violin. Played 6 Bach pieces for 45 minutes. During this time more than a thousand people passed through the station, most of  them were in a hurry for work in the peak traffic time.

In three minutes a middle-age man noticed the musician. Slowed down and stopped for a second, then hurried away. A minute later the musician earned his first dollar, a woman threw the money in his violin case without stopping. A few minutes later somebody started to listen to the music while leaning against the wall, but a little time later he took a look at his watch and hurried away. A little 3-year old boy paid most attention to the music. His mother walked with him hand-in-hand, but the boy stopped to watch the violinist. His mother pulled him away a little time later, but the boy was just looking back while walking away. The same routine repeated itself with other children, but without exception every parent took the children away. During this 45 minute performance only 6 people stopped. About 20 of them gave money while passing by, but nobody slowed down. Altogether 32 dollars were collected. Nobody noticed the end of the music, the station quieted down, nobody noticed the change. Nobody clapped, nobody congratulated.

The passer-byers did not know that one of the world’s most famous violin player, Joshua Bell played the most beautiful pieces of the musical history on his 3.5 million dollar Stradivarius. Two days before the metro-performance he performed in front of a full house in a Boston theater where the average price of a ticket was 100 dollars.

This is a true story! The metro-performance with the plain clothed camouflaged Joshua Bell was organized by the Washington Post newspaper as a sociological experiment. Wanted to find out that in an everyday environment, in an inappropriate time, would people recognize beauty, would they stop to accept and value a talent unexpectedly.

One possible result of the experiment: if we have no time to stop and listen to one of the world’s best musicians performing the most virtuoso pieces of the musical literature, how many other things we pass by unnoticed the same way day after day?