(Translated by Laszlo, AA7UY)
Jeszu (pron. yaesu/tr.): Hi, or see you in familiar Greek.
Gerald came over from the neighboring French yacht to help me remove the mast. He also had one or two excellent ideas, I like to observe and learn. Had to remove the wind generator as well, it was in the way. Removed everything from deck because we let the mast down stern-wards, solar panel, life raft, life ring.
The mast had not been taken down since Fiji, so checked it thoroughly. It was about time too! The VHF antenna connector and cable were completely corroded and broken. Perhaps the insulation and silicone couldn’t take the strong sunshine? I didn’t repair this one, will keep using the reserve VHF antenna. Should buy some coax cable and connectors, but haven’t got much money and now every little bit counts.
All mountings and wire ropes at the top of the mast were in good shape. I was worried they would be about to break, but not so. Will not repair the masthead light for now, have no wire or time. The red and green navigation lights will now have to make Carina visible to others.
Re-secured the radar reflector, practically nothing was holding it. Last time fixed it good and strong in Eritrea some 5 months ago.
Some, mainly yachtsmen, are coming by and asking questions. They don’t even notice Carina because I’m tied up more toward the inside. So far I haven’t met any yachtsmen here that left Europe, the Mediterranean. There are some that has been sailing in Greek waters for 20 years J Interesting. Most are sailing toward the Adriatic, Greek waters, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, Tunisia, possibly toward Turkey.
There are charter-, also touring ships, whose crews live in their ships during the season. It’s far more expensive here in Europe than in other place, also most locations are pretty crowded. Fortunately not so here. Charter boating is big business on the Med!
P.m.: they wouldn’t refill my gas bottle, they said it’s too rusty and dangerous. So will have to make do with what I have.
Shopping for some food. Packing things away in the ship.
The local TV came out for an interview. Will broadcast it on the local station tomorrow, then later nationwide.
Then re-stepped the mast with Gerald.
Evening: assembled in Gerald’s ship. 2 married couples, and yeah, a young Hungarian drank Uzo.
Later walked in town, meeting local youths, then interneted (wifi) at night as usual at the café.
I love the waitress; the only problem is she doesn’t speak English J
2009.08.19 (day 1061)
Local tourist paper: www.messiniathisweek.gr
A.m.: Routine checking and cleaning the outboard, changed sparkplugs.
Adjusting the mast. Writing yacht log, planning my route with the help of MaxSea.
P.m.: Shopping: fresh vegetables and fruits, eggs, w small loaves of bread (expensive) and a few odd and ends.
(I always buy the cheapest and least amount of everything.)
Bought 2 liters of oil (2 stroke marine type), it was quite expensive.
Inspected the temporary VHF antenna and secured to the wind generator tower. Re-hoisted the HF radio antenna.
Sealed a fitting on the bow and a hole near the mast (used to be the hole for the 12V mast light cable). In other words a lot of small jobs and checks to prepare for departure.
Evening: no interneting, I’m tired and will be leaving tomorrow. So went to bed.
Greece, Kalamata – Greece, Lefkada (Levkas).
7 days, 200 nm.
WP1 (36-38N 21-56E) southern part of Venatika Is.
WP2 (36-42.5N 21-40.7E) Schiza Is.
WP3 (37-20.5N 21-22.1E) Strofades Is.
WP4 (38-13.7N 20-11.3E) Zakynthos Is.
WP5 (38-31.4N 20-31.5E) southern part of Lefkada Is.
Southern part of Vasiliki Bay: 38-37.6N 20-36.3E
2009.08.20 (day 1062)
Bought some fuel and departed at 1030LT.
1.5 knots on course 270° wind Bf.2-3
Lunch: bread, green salad, orange and chocolate
P.m.: cleaning sparkplugs, packing things away
15UTC: 14.292 MHz radio: POS (36-56N 21-57E) heard HA5CAR well; HA5HS weakly. Tomorrow at 6UTC on 7095 kHz. They couldn’t hear me today.
Bf. 2-3-4, variable.
Evening: diminishing wind, then calm..
Many fishing boats around because I’m close to shore.
Dozing off in the cockpit.
Dawn: northerly wind Bf.1, then variable.
2009.08.21 (day 1063)
1010mB, 34°C, Bf.0-1 N
Breakfast: bread, vegetables
9LT reached WP1. Wind W Bf.0-1
Lunch green salad, bread and a couple of swallows of wine, then spaghetti with cheese
Wind weak, then calm. Increasing ship traffic.
15UTC 14.292 MHz POS (36-49N 21-39E)
HA6HS couldn’t hear me.
P.m.: weak wind
Dinner: lunch leftovers
Evening: many large ships near and distant.
Night: west wind, calm, then southerly
Dozing off in the cockpit.
2009.08.22 (day 1064)
1010 mB, 32°, calm in the morning.
Breakfast: spaghetti, orange, chocolate.
6UTC POS( 37-04N 21-28E), 16 nm to WP3
7.095 MHz radio: YO2AAG (5,7); HA5TGY
A.m.: weak wind NW-NNW Bf.0-1. Sailing north at 1 knot.
A few yachts and a large ship in the distance.
Lunch: green salad, bread
P.m.: calms and poor visibility
Dinner: canned pork, vegetables, bread
Weak NW wind, direction 260°
At night: southerly winds and butterflying.
2009.08.23 (day 1065)
1010 mB, 29-32°, Bf.0 NW
The Peloponnesus peninsula is now well visible
Breakfast: dinner leftovers
6UTC 7.045 MHz radio POS (37-25N 21-11E)
HA5CAR, HA5HS, YO2AAG, YO2BF (5,8), Károly, Temesvár; YO2MFM; YO2GL
Forecast: W-NW-N winds Bf.2-3-4
Finished reading Dennis Conner’s Comeback (My race for the America Cup – 1986-87)
Its subject is a Sailing Cup, the oldest Cup in the World,. How he won it back and why he succeeded J. Good book! He won in 1980, lost in ’83 and won it again in ‘86/87.
Lunch: spaghetti and grapes. Haven’t bought grapes for a long time, now I have it and they’re very good!
P.m.: NW wind Bf.1-2
Having no charts I rather sail around the islands on the outside.
Later Bf.3-4, increasingly short and uncomfortable seas
2030LT POS( 37-26N 20-52E)
A few large vessels in the distance. Must keep a sharp lookout!
Wind weakens after 24LT and shifts to northerly
2009.08.24 (day 1066)
1009 mB, 30-32°, BF.2 NNE
Breakfast: leftover spaghetti
6UTC 7.095 MHz (37-26N 20-35E) 51 nm to go, made 15 nm past 24 hours (weak winds)
The tuning of the radio isn’t perfect, there is some reflection.
HA5HS; HA5APK; YO2AAG; HA7UN; HA7JZ
A very good friend of mine is vacationing in Levkas Island, so I’ll stop there in a few days time.
Forecast: variable weak winds (E, N, W), Bf.1-2-3
A large ship altered her course and came near to see what my ship was.
The upper tie of the HF antenna broke yesterday, fortunately it won’t fall off.
Bananas I bought in Kalamata are beginning to ripen, will have one for lunch.
Sailing near Zakynthos island, where there is presently a forest fire (Boby said (YO2AAG/tr). The smoke is visible.
Lunch: vegetable salad and bread.
16LT POS( 37-36N 20-42E) 45 nm to go.
The bread is getting moldy.
1830LT anchored in a small bay near Zakynthos Is. Having no charts, I don’t know its name. It’s small enough not to have a name. I named in Carina Bay. Depth: 11m and open to the south.
Using 2 anchors, there are rocks nearby.
POS ( 37-43N 20-44E) 40 miles to go.
I anchored because there’s no wind yet heavy fishing boat traffic. So I couldn’t make headway and couldn’t sleep either…
Dinner: canned fish, bread, greens, chocolate, and a glass of cheap wine.
More landlubbers are reading my sailing Webpage than sailors J
2009.08.25 (day 1067)
1012 mB, 27°, Bf. 0-1 NW
Departed at 0630LT before sunrise.
Breakfast: dinner leftovers and plums (haven’t eaten plums for years)
Counted 7 masts in a larger bay at the northern part of Zakynthos Island. There are many yachts in this area, this could be the best anchorage in the vicinity.
There are very good guides for yachts available , which indicate where the best anchorages are but unfortunately I don’t have one. I can maneuver easier with little Carina than the larger yachts.
6UTC 7095 kHz POS( 37-50N 20-36E), 32 miles to go, 19nm made past 24 hours. (Weak winds and calms).
HA5HS; YO2AAG; HA5AIL/P Pécs, Jóska;
Forecast: N-NW-NE weak and variable.
Spotted three yachts this morning, increasingly more yachts and tourists. Later fishing boats.
A good wind came up shortly after the radio sked, Bf.1-2 E then Bf.2 SSE
Making 2.3 – 3 knots wide sailing.
Lunch: spaghetti with tomato sauce.
Wind died after 13LT, then Bf.2 from 300° around 15LT.
17LT POS( 39-09N 20-23E) 10 miles to WP4.
Anchored tonight at the SW side of Kefallinia Is. This is a sheltered bay, but now there are no other ships, a small fishing port is nearby. Only locals use its small beach. Using 2 anchors in 5.5m deep water..
Swam and snorkeled a little. Set the anchors by hand, rocky bottom. Later swam ashore and walked some.
Sea life is pretty dead here. Saw very few and very small fishes only.
Dinner: spaghetti and a glass of wine.
Evening: reading and BBC.
2009.08.26 (day 1068)
1015 mB, 27-32°, Bf.0-1 NW.
The anchor line got snagged, had to dive to free it. Free-lung dive at dawn.
Breakfast: dinner leftovers.
6UTC 7.095 MHz POS( 38-16N 20-20E), 17 miles to WP5. 7.060 MHz is better, less noise.
HA5HS; YO2AAG; HA5AIL/P; HA8EG (5,9) sending from Hvar Island, using 80W.
Forecast: E-NW-N-W-E, Bf. 1-2-3 variable winds.
Pali in USA is listening through the internet, but I can’t hear him.
Tried fishing but the ship is too slow, it’s harder this way.
On course with Bf.1-2 E, making 2 knots.
Around 12LT the wind is NE then N and weakening. The seas slowly subside, but the Sun is getting hotter and hotter.
Lunch: moldy bread, canned pork, tomato, onions, paprika spiced with mustard.
Very many yachts in the vicinity, don’t even bother counting them. The sea is full of ‘em.
Dolphins escorting me at a distance.
P.M.: NW winds Bf.1-2-3, quarter-banging.
The wind is increasing in Vasiliki Bay, it’s always stronger here than the outside. That’s why the surfers like it.
About Bf.5 here, fairly gusty, I’m galloping!
18LT tied up in POS( 38-37N 20-36E) at a free pier that’s full of restaurants.
Will spend tomorrow here, meeting a good friend.
Stern anchor – depth 3m, 10m chain and 5m rope, Guardien anchor.
Strong side wind, but no waves. Good spot!
A Hungarian family is vacationing on board the neighboring large yacht. We talked and showed them my ship. Later their friends and acquaintances came. Carina filled up, we could hardly find a place! There is a ’51 fine-, also cheap wine (in a bag) in the ship! Spent a pleasant evening, then went to their apartment as well. Slept in a bed but it would’ve been better in Carina! J
2009.08.27 (day 1069)
A day of rest. Beaching and the like.
Didn’t buy anything, nor did I eat at any restaurant. The Gyros cost 1.5 Euros in a place, that was my holiday dinner! J
Route plan to Koper, 600 nm.
WP1 (39-07.8N 19-51.5E), by Paxoi and Antipaxoi Is.
WP2 (39-47.3N 19-19.5E) by Othoni Is.
WP3 (40-23.6N 19-11E) Canale D’Otranto
WP4 (41-53N 16-21E), by Vieste, but first a call at Otranto and Barletta, weather permitting.
WP5 (44-48N 13-38E) by Pula, perhaps anchoring here also, yet uncertain
WP6 (45-29N 13-28E)
WP7 (45-33N 13-43E) entrance to Koper Harbor.
There are oil drilling rigs and separated shipping lanes in the northern Adriatic. Also heavy traffic.
2009.08.28 (day 1070)
1018 mB, 25° in the morning!
Departed at sunrise. Weak, Bf.0-1 N wind
Breakfast: banana, moldy bread, vegetables, a quarter of a can of pork laced with mustard.
6UTC 7.060 MHz POS( 38-34N 20-34E) 47 miles to WP1
HA5HS; YO2AAG; YO9BRT, Áron; HA2TX, Misi; YO2GL, Károly, Temesvár.
Forecast: W-N-E, Bf. 1-2-3, variable weak winds.
A.m.: total calm.
Motored a little around noon, then the wind came. Bf.1-2 W, then NNW. Quartering at 1–2 knots.
The inter-island ferry route is nearby, they pass close to CARINA. Made a SUDOKU from a newspaper. Last time I did that with Nick in New Zealand.
Wind weakened and died out in the evening.
The coax of my VHF radio has been faulty since Egypt. They broadcast weather forecasts in different languages, including English, from Greece on VHF channel 68.
Heavy ship traffic at night. Slept in the cockpit, but went inside at dawn for a more comfortable sleep. Lightning in the distance.
2009.08.29 (day 1071)
1005 mB, 38° max, Bf.0-1 W
Breakfast: leftover spaghetti, chocolate.
6UTC 7,060 MHz HA5CAR; HA5HS; YO9BRT
Forecast: W-S-SE-NW Bf.3-4 winds expected for the next few days.
Calm. Motored at low RPM. Alas, there’s a weak counter-current here.
There are ships but only far away.
It’s very warm. Reading.
Lunch: noodles with eggs, canned corn
15UTC POS( 39-23N 19-29E); 64 miles to Otranto.
Tunas jumping around me. Tried fishing but the speed is too slow and haven’t got good bait either. The mountains of Korfu are well visible.
Heavy ship traffic all day and all night. Getting closer to the Strait. Dozed in the cockpit at night and went inside at dawn.
2009.08.30 (day 1072)
1008 mB, 31°, Bf.1 S, mostly cloudy.
6UTC 7.060 MHz, POS( 39-49N 18-53E) 26 miles to Otranto.
HA5CAR; HA5HS; YO2AAG; HA5CTN, Árpi; YO9BRT; HA7UN; HA8AW; YO5PHQ, Attila, Nagyvárad; HA3TGL,Laci, Marcali;
Special event station: HG8NAVIGA, Józsi, Orosháza.
A.m.: Bf.1-2 S wind, making 2 knots on 315.
Lunch: rice, soy sauce, sardines, fried vegetables, orange juice
Fishing but moving too slow for it.
P.m.: Bf.2-3, stronger winds, lightning and gathering clouds.
Several large ships in the distance, also yachts.
Finished reading today: Zola: Párizs gyomra (The Belly of Paris /tr.) (first read it 10-15 years ago).
The wind direction is changing: W Bf.3. then NW Bf.3-4, almost perfect headwind – not too good!
Late p.m. wind strengthened to Bf.7-8 in seconds, flying spray, this is a storm. Lowered all sails and waiting. Wind has weakened after 1 hour, but still uncertain. The sky is cloudy and lightning in the distance. I rather motored into nearby Otranto with some help from sail.
Anchored before dark in the sheltered harbor in front of the town. POS( 40-09N 18-29E)
Threw out the stern anchor to stop her from moving around, in the little space.
I’m back in the Adriatic! Good bye Ionian. The Rounding was officially completed today, crossed my Oct. 2006 track late afternoon.
2009.08.31 (day 1073)
1020 mB, 28-32°,
Breakfast: dinner leftovers
6UTC 7.060 MHz HA5HS; YO2AAG; HA7UN; HA3TBL; HA7JZ; HA3MQ; YO2MFM; HA3LP; HA5PIK; YO5PHQ,Attila, Arad;
A.m.: tied up at the large pier of commercial and fishing vessels, there was no room at the sailing club anchorage.
Tied next to a First 40.7 with a nice Italian couple in it. They kindly offered me to tie up next to them, because there was no room elsewhere. The captain, (George), his charter company:
www.raceanc.com. They’re heading for Venice, but – like me – are waiting for favorable weather.
The Port Authority asked for my sailing license, it was probably the first time this happened.
They became very suspicious when I explained that I have no usable telephone number at the present!
.P.m.: Walked about town, also visited the Seaman’s Church. Then the beach, walked on the main street, the Fort and the Old Town.
The more than 25-knot headwinds weakened in a few days then shifted southerly. Two ships departed toward the south, easy for them, they sail with following wind. The GPS got wet yesterday and stopped working. Now dried it in the sun and it works again. Luckily the harbor was well visible from far away.
The HF antenna hoist frayed, so repaired it.
Spoke with a nearby Austrian yacht and he told me about this place. Here, where the two seas meet in the narrow strait, there are noticeable currents, frequently short but steep waves.
For this reason sailing is difficult and unpleasant in this area, but the steep waves cease about 30 miles to the north from here.
Presently I’m in the southernmost port of the Adriatic, my last Sea, with one of the northernmost ports, Koper the target. The summer will soon be over, autumn is around the corner. The Adriatic will be windier and colder, though September is still more summer like.
The fishing boats near Otranto could not fish for 40 days, so almost all of them are in the harbor, and some yachts can tie up to them.
Evening: had a beer with my neighbor, George. We talked about sport fishing, ships and sailing around Venice.
Dinner: soup in the ship.
Today is the last day of the Otranto Jazz Festival. An open-air series of concerts and today I’ll go and listen to them.
Albanian waters are no longer off limits to foreign vessels. There are many off limit areas though in the area. Same in Montenegro’s waters, those are wise to avoid!
There also are special areas in Croatia and Slovenia where special regulations apply because of the National Parks. Italy too has restricted areas but not many.
Local winds: Bora, Scirocco, Jugo, Maestro, Libreccio, Tramontana, Levanat…
The buoy system is IALA.
2009.09.01 (day (1074)
The neighboring marina is full, also the main pier, even the anchorage is filling up fast.
Laika, the fishermen’s dog barks at everybody at night, even at the fishermen.
6UTC 7.060 MHz HA5HS; YO2AAG; HA8WV; YO2MFM
Forecast: departure soon, wind should weaken.
Packed away the hooks.
Organized the ropes
Caulked the stainless base-mount of the wind generator. (Split a little.)
No interneting: closed.
Luka, the captain of a neighboring Italian yacht invited me for coffee, we chatted some. He is sailing in his old, fiberglass 10m boat in the area. They live in the ship with his wife and 1 year old daughter. She’s expecting their second baby. They’ve been staying in the ship for a year, but will return to Pescara in a few weeks to live normal landlubber’s life again. The yacht needs overhaul and they’ll have to go to work as well.
The fishermen are very friendly but don’t speak English. So, we understood each other with Nicol by mixing a sort of Italian with English. It was so successful, that he too invited me for coffee with one of his fishing mates, also called Nicol.
I thought we’d go to an espresso to drink the usual presso coffee, but not so: you must drink 3 shots of hard liquor in the espresso. You mustn’t decline, that’s a genuine friendly gesture.
Later we went back to the harbor. They continued to repair their net and I went back to Luca to look over their ship.
Yachts are arriving in the harbor. For example a Comet 42 arrived late afternoon, whose tying up I also helped with. They tied to a fishing boat and it’s important to catch and secure their lines, especially in case of an older couple.
Evening: interneted, 2 hour cost 1.5 Euro. (I was there yesterday already, we talked and a local acquaintance, who also works as a DJ, helped to get a special price).
Evening: stepped into an open food can causing a deep cut in my big toe.
2009.09.02 (day 1075).
Departure at dawn. Weak NW winds. Motored out of the harbor at low RPM for 1-2 hours.
Sunrise on the water. Fish are jumping out of the water next to me.
6UTC 7.060 MHz POS( 40-13N 18-28E 119 miles to Barletta.
Forecast: weak southerlies afternoon, lasting a few days and slightly increasing to Bf.3-4.
HA5HS; YO2AAG; HG3FIM, Pécs, Zsombor; HA7UN, Feri; HA3UX, Tamás; HA7JZ; HA8FLE, Lajos, Szeged; YO2MFM, Gyuri, Arad; HA2TX, Misi (5,9); YO5PHQ, Attila, near Várad, (5,9);
The sea is full of motorboats near the coast. The weather is nice and they’re fishing.
Therefore I must sit outside to keep avoiding them.
Lunch: muesli, raisins, pear, orange.
The southerly wind gradually strengthening from noon.
My speed is increasing 1->1.5->2->2.5 knots.
Raining over the coast a few miles away but fortunately it’s fine here.
Later some yachts from Otranto caught up with, and passed me at 5 knots.
Evening and night: heavy traffic, I’m near Brindisi, frequent ferries, so must watch for them.
Generally the traffic decreases after midnight and it’s possible to rest a little.
2009.09.03 (day 1076)
Slept through the radio sked (6UTC, 8LT), couldn’t get enough sleep at night watching the movements of large ships, so fell into a deep sleep at dawn, waking up after 10LT only.
Sorry radio amateurs!
1012 mB, 32°, Bf.1 S; speed 1-2 knots.
Breakfast: biscuits, chocolate.
11LT POS( 40-50N 17-38E) 67 miles to Barletta.
P.m.: wind strengthening to Bf .4, S.
My speed: 3->3.5->-4>4.5 knots in the right direction!
Lunch: spaghetti in tomato sauce with mushrooms
The fishermen around me are dragging their nets perpendicular to the coast, in other words crossing my path! Must go around them sometimes.
Dolphins following me!
Evening: SW wind, diminishing to Bf.3 my speed is.2 knots.
At night: SW wind Bf.3 -> Bf.2
Many, many ships are near and in the distance, ferries, fishing boats, yachts and large freighters
2009.09.04 (day 1077)
1012 mB, 32°, Bf.0-1 S.
6UTC 7.060 MHz POS( 41-17N 16-44E)
HA5HS; YO2AAG; YO9BRT; HA5ALE; YO2MFM; HA7UN; HA8WV; HA7JZ; HA0BAS; HA8DL; HA7BJ
Messages from home: two Hungarian yachts, presently in southern Croatia would like to meet Carina. It’d be nice, but most important is to arrive Koper on time.
A.m.: speed 1 knot in Bf.1 S
Very many small vessels around me, must keep a sharp lookout.
Lunch: yesterday’s spaghetti.
P.m.: increasing wind stays southerly Bf.2-3, my speed is 3 knots on course.
16LT arrived Barletta.
Tied up at the fisherman’s pier, secured with a buoyed stern anchor and two bowlines. Valerio, the friend of a local virtual friend gave me a hand with the tie-up. Alessandro is still working, will come later. He’s a fireman. Alessandro wrote me an email a few months ago, he saw my Webpage and liked CARINA.
Valerio, riding his scooter, showed me around town a little. Then we had coffee at the largest coffeehouse in town! Alessandro has an internet café, where we visited in the evening. I met Alessandro and his family. Nice people! I love Italians! J
We moved Carina to anchor among the small fishing boats, it’s safer. They invited me for dinner to a pizzeria, I can’t even mention the quality and style: GUSTO!1
2009.09.05 (day 1078)
Breakfast with Alessandro and his family at a main street café. Very tasty, fresh local pastries.
Then played with his son at the play station. J
A.m.: brief interneting, uploading pictures, etc.
Italians in general are pretty relaxed, I am the same way, Feeling good here.
Anna, Alessandro’s wife made spaghetti with chicken for lunch. My spaghetti is not as good, can’t even touch the Italian quality!
Tonight is special night here: notte bianca – white night. There are open-air concerts all over Barletta tonight for this occasion. Walked around with Valerio.
2009.09.06 (day 1079)
Valerio came over in the morning and showed me around town: the Cathedral, a few famous statues and buildings. Invited me for lunch with his family, they were very nice.
Italian lunches are huge and GUSTO! Naturally spaghetti is always the first course, and they didn’t eat soup. I can still taste the fine wines and fruits I had there!. His younger brother is going to Milan tomorrow for University entrance exams. Barletta is a small town, one must travel away for higher education.
The family spoke some English, there were no problems with communication.
Italians usually take a siesta after a Sunday lunch. Valerio showed me their garden, the source of their fine fruits and vegetables, and I left.
P.m.: walking in town and on the beaches.
2009.09.07 (day 1080)
Morning coffee with Alessandro and one of his friends.
A.m.: shopping for a few little things. Interneting.
Lunch at Alessandro – Dolce Vita.
When Italians are asking about their food, I mention the spaghetti, and they get very inspired. However, when I mention ketchup, their hearts contract. J
Anna’s parents came over and we had coffee.
Later, in the afternoon we moved Carina to the end of the fishing pier.
Alessandro, Mauro and Michael helped too.
Unfortunately, the wind has further increased in the evening and the place became dangerous by nightfall. Alessandro recommended we shift over to the large ship’s pier, which is more sheltered. Carina began to rise and fall from the increasingly higher seas. Alessandro called a motor boat and it towed me over and I had a calm, pleasant evening. The boys brought some beer, the Coast Guard and Port Captain and some others came over. There was even some food!
I tried to babble in Italian while grinning like an idiot.
The Coast Guard asked if I had all required equipment. I told them yes and listed what I had in the ship. The liferaft is secured on deck, it’s well visible, so they didn’t start any serious inspection.
2009.09.08 (day 1081)
A.m.: sorting ropes and anchors, bought fuel, re-packed food supplies. Alessandro gave me a lot of presents, I had to find place for them. Francesco bought me lunch to Carina. It was delicious, and of course very Italian. He also brought some fine wine. His motor boat is called Fata Morgana.
Then a reporter came from barlettalive.com and we talked about my voyage. He didn’t want to leave my shipJ
P.m.: went to the apartment of Francesco’s parents. Later had some drinks with local buddies at a local bar. Francesco gave me a scratch ticket and asked me to scratch it. They thought I’d bring luck! Funny J
Evening: all acquaintances assembled in the harbor to say good bye. Departing tomorrow morning.
2009.09.09 (day 1082)
1020 mB, 22° early morning, later 25 and still getting warmer.
We had a last cappuccino with Alessandro (Meeting Café).
.A large ship moves to occupy the berth I was in, I must go.
Bf.3-4 WSW# wind, heading north ¾ - ½ wind at 3 knots
11 LT wind easing then shifting to W, later NE Bf.2; variable today.
There are 21 fishing boats around me. They couldn’t go out during the past few days , so now the sea is crowded.
Lunch: fried eggplant with onions and biscuits, ginger, multivitamin.
P.m.: cooler: long pants, T-shirt, pullover.
Evening: even more cooler, put on a jacket too.
Dinner: scrambled eggs with onions, biscuits, paprika.
Counted 12 fishing boats, then an hour later 24. It’s dark and the area is full of them, we’re near Vieste.
At night: lightning in the distance. I even donned my waterproofs. It’s cold!
Drinking coffee to keep awake, turning on the navigation lights when ships are coming toward me. Bf.2 WSW wind.
Brief calm at dawn, then NW, later westerly wind, variable near the coast.
Keep dozing off in the cockpit, then going to sleep in the cabin at dawn.
2009.09.10 (day 1083)
5UTC 3.618 MHz, Hungarian Rooster Circle.
1020 mB, 28-32°, Bf.0-1 NW wind.
6UTC 7.060 MHz, POS( 42-20N 15-52E) 176 miles to Pula, 70 nm made good past 24 h.
Forecast: NW-N-NNE weak wind, rain expected.
I hear Zex is waiting for me in Pula.
Got the position of a secure anchorage.
Breakfast: liver paste, biscuits, cucumber, onion, paprika, energy tablets, ginger, multivitamin.
6UTC 7.060 MHz, HA7UN; OE/HA8CT; YO2MFM; HA7RW; HA7JZ; HA8DN; HG7JTO;
The sun is out. Large ships are coming and going around me, we’re in shipping lanes.
Noon: I can see Vis island in the distance already.
Lunch: almonds, Greek wine, spaghetti in tomato sauce.
P.m.: weak Bf.1-2 NW wind, heading west at 1-1.5 knots.
Wind increasing to Bf.3-4 W, so my speed is 2.5 knots, quartering.
Large ships and ferries nearby.
Dinner: lunch leftovers.
At night: heavy traffic, not much sleep.
Went to sleep at 4 am. Wind NE Bf.3
2009.09.11 (day 1084)
1017 mB, 25°, NE Bf.3, (P.m.: NW Bf.2-3)
6UTC 7.060 MHz POS( 42-45N 14-59E), 134 nm to Pula; 38 nm made good past 24h.
HA5HS; YO2AAG; HG4GHJ, Jóska, Dunaújváros; HA7UN; HA7JRD, Tibor, Jászberény;
HA7BJ, János, Törökszentmiklós; HG7JTD, Laci, 5-9; YO2MFM
Breakfast: multivitamin, ginger, chocolate, yesterday’s spaghetti
A.m.: sleeping, I am tired.
Forecast: NE-NW Bf.1-2-3-4, then weakening, becoming southerly.
Lunch: spaghetti leftovers.
Tired all day from last nights watch, didn’t sleep much.
Beating into cold NW headwind, changing tacks.
P.m.: saw 2 yachts heading southward. At first I thought they were acquaintances, but not so. Two Hungarian yachts also are in the vicinity, it’d be good to meet them, but most important is the Sep. 19 arrival in Slovenia. I set that arrival time around Aug.20. The official will be 10 days before that, about now.
Dinner: 2 eggs fried sunny side up, onions, biscuits, paprika, cucumber.
Night: not much sleep, I’m near the Italian coast, many fishing boats, 20-30 minute naps.
2009.09.12 (day (1085)
1016 mB, 24°, Bf.2 N, cloudy sky
Heading NW at 1-2 knots.
6UTC 7.060 MHz POS( 43-05N 14-20E) 107 nm to go.
HA5CAR; (5,7); HA5HS (5,9); HA7UN (5,9); HA7RW (5,9); YO2BF, Oszkár (5,7); YO2MFM;
YO6AEI, Misi; HA8EG., Feri; HA5PTN, Jutka;
Forecast: variable winds
Breakfast: liver paste, biscuits, vegetables
A.m.: a sparrow flew into the cockpit and flew around a while, shit on my boots then flew away!
The Italian coast is visible, I got fairly close, which is not too good because of a possible 0.5 – 1-knot counter current.
Wind: Bf.3-4, rough seas – uncomfortable going.
Lunch: boiled potatoes, the last of the paprika, cucumber and a third of can of beef.
P.m.: the ferries are coming and going near the coast, I’m near Italy.
Cloudy. A few days ago I got sunburn, my back is painful.
At night: continuous lightning, then rained for a few hours. Must keep watch for large ship traffic.
At dawn: already Bf.5-6, apparently should be reefing, but both my mainsail and jib are smaller than normal, so there’s no problem. We’re galloping!
Drank my last and only energy drink.
2009.09.13 (day 1096)
The last Sunday.
1016 mB, 24°, Bf.1 NE. making 1 knot heading NW by the oil drilling rigs.
6UTC 7.060 MHz POS( 44-01N 13-52E) 49 miles to go.
HA5CAR (5,7); HA5HS; YO2AAG; HG7JT; HA8AT, Batanya, Imre; HA6NH, (5,9), Laci, Balassagyarmat; HA5TGY;
Forecast: variable, sometimes stronger, not headwinds J
My Pulai acquaintance, Zeljko recommended this bay: 44-49.6N 13-50.7E
Passing near the drilling rigs, the wind calmed and I started to drift toward them even more. The picket boat turned slowly toward me…I figured this was the time to motor away a few miles.
Breakfast: multivitamin, magnesium fizzle pill, energy tablet.
Lunch: biscuits, beef stew (canned), orange, chocolate.
P.m.: a few ferries and a large ship passed nearby.
Dinner: biscuits, cream of lentil soup with sausages (the last Hungarian canned food), onions, chocolate.
Evening: calm. I’m near shipping lanes where the traffic is heavy.
Lightning all around.
At night: weak E wind
Dawn: strong SE wind, Bf.3->4->5
Cloudy sky (can’t see the stars), lighting and rain around me.
2009.09.14 (day 1087)
1014 mB, 22°, Bf.5 SE, lowered the mainsail, left the jib only.
6UTC 7.060 MHz POS( 44-44N 13-50E), HA5HS couldn’t hear me, YO2AAG heard me; YO5TD
11LT POS (44-49.72N 13-51.09E)
Lunch: multivitamin, scrambled eggs with onions and biscuits
The bay is full of ships and food begging seagulls.
Later shifted to the front of the bay where I also found a buoy.
P.m.: Cleaning the space below the bunk, cleaned sparkplugs, checked motor and water supplies.
Later Zeljko, local acquaintance, who has been following my voyage and gave me the coordinates for this bay, arrived in pouring rain with his small dinghy. I showed him the ship, we drank a beer, then he towed CARINA to a small private jetty, where they gave me permission to stay.
Evening: one or two beers at the local fisherman’s bar with Zeljko and his friends.
2009.09.15. (day 1088).
1021 mB, 18°, It’s cold! Donned blue jeans so I won’t freeze.
6UTC 7.060 MHz HA5HS; YO2AAG; HA5ALE
A.m.: cleaning shelves, spotted a few leaks. Stopped raining. Interview with a local paper.
Later more visitors: Mario; Marco (laser coach). We chatted.
P.m.: interview with a (Croatian) nationwide newspaper
Evening: drank beer with Zeljko and some of his friends at the local pub. Then Mario, another of Zeljko’s friends showed me the nightlife of Pula.
2009.09.16 (day 1089)
Mario brought breakfast in the morning. Thanks! Croatian pastries.
A.m.: cleaning compartments.
A local newsman came and we talked in the ship for an hour.
Early afternoon I went to Mario and interneted from their place. A very kind friend and a good man.
Yesterday he gave me an extension cord and now I’m charging the batteries.
P.m.: raining and no work.
Evening: had dinner at Sonja and Ivan’s with Mario and Zeljko.
It was a fish dinner, the sea is near and everybody catches fish.
There is a shoal nearby, where two or three yachts run aground every year. A few months ago a 20m motor yacht ran aground there and promptly sank. The captain left everything in it. The story was that they were playing cards and the boat was on autopilot at 10 knots.
2009.09.17 (day 1090)
Heavy rain all morning.
Sonja and Ivan came out to the ship and invited me for coffee in town. Zeljko, Marion and Milan joined us. Everybody was supposed to be at work but they slipped out on my account J
The rain stopped at noon and the Croatian National TV came to Carina for an interview.
Departure. Koper, my next and last port is 60 nautical miles.
P.m.: Weak southerly wind. There was a yugo (wind/tr) during the preceding few days that has weakened by now. There are many sailboats near the coast, I haven’t seen anything like this in years. The sea is full of themJ
Packing and putting things in order.
Dinner: boiled potato, onion and canned fish.
I have no more unread books.
Recently finished The Last Temptation by K.Z.
At night: coffeine tablet, I’m tired. Many fishing boats in the area and must keep good watch.
Dolphins swimming beside me at night and following me, yet I’m barely moving, the sea is like mirror.
2009.09.18 (day 1091)
I do not follow what comes from the outside, I’m only following what comes and came from the inside.
1020 mB, 21°, SW wind Bf.0-1, making 1 knot on course near the coast.
Breakfast: dinner leftovers, multivitamin.
Trying to rest and sleep. I’m very tired from the night watch.
6UTC 7.060 MHz POS( 44-58N 13-32E) 35 miles to Koper.
HA5HS, Rudi,; YO2AAG, Boby. They can’t hear me, yet I’m receiving them well.
Forecast; variable weak winds today and tomorrow.
Supper: leftovers from last night (made a salad of the boiled potato), apple, chocolate.
P.m.: total calm. Cleaning (i.e. the kitchen), packing things away (like fishing gear).
At night: many fishing boats around, frequently got up to check the traffic.
My last night alone outside.
2009.09.19 (day 1092)
Special day, arriving today. The last day!
1021 mB, 21°, Bf;0-1 SE wind.
The last sunrise alone at sea, even more beautiful than usual. Everything is nice and pleasant.
6UTC 7.060MHz POS( 45-31N 13-28E) 10.3 nm to Koper.
I can hear HA5HAS, Rudi, but he can’t hear me. The last radio sked as well….
I thank the radio amateurs, the ‘Hungarian Circle’, for being with me and for their continued watch over three years.
Breakfast: biscuits, canned fish, mustard and onion.
A little cleanup, shaving, washing up.
Distance to the port at noon is 3 nm. Shortly spotted Gál Józsi’s 44 foot sailboat Equator II. Decorated with holiday flags, many people on board. Family, friends and reporters (TV2, RTL, X-treme, two foreign newsmen as well: Poór Józsi and Jean Luc G.).
My speed is 1 knot, following wind, sailing together for a while. The meeting of two Hungarian ships is always a great adventure. Even more so now!
14:05: arrival at the marina. Many people. As much as possible, I’m trying to talk with everybody. Gál József, Hungarian twice Round-the Worlder is here, representing the Hungarian Sailing Association. Greeted me pleasantly, gave me a Cup. (Attila Frigyer also took part organizing this event but he was unable to attend).
My friends are greeting me with a magnum of champagne. Carina receives a Holiday Flag.
My three new friends, Alessandro, his nephew and Francesco from Barletta, Italy came to greet me, as a surprise. They traveled 13 hours to spend only 1 hour here. Having to work tomorrow, they’ll travel another 13 hours back. A father came with his 3 children: he wanted them to witness my arrival, perhaps to remember it always…
And, of course, came my relatives, friends, acquaintances and strangers.
I was profoundly touched by this affectionate reception. I want to thank everybody for everything from the bottom of my heart.
I must confess, I recently tried to imagine how the Moment of Arrival would feel, but it’s impossible to project the actual feeling. You must live through it. And had to sail around the Earth to experience it.
It was all worth it, and not only for this moment! J
The afternoon and evening went by fast, but it would take long to write it all down. I couldn’t even write its essence.
This is the END of the yacht-log. No more. I will not continue, the words are few, they'd be like a barrier…
Peace and Fair Winds!
CARINA and Áron.