The
Sailor of Sailors Dreams of Remote Horizons. (Centkiewicz )
My yacht log
- 11.24 - 12.03, 2006
"In the beginning they
could not understand my insistence on getting away from the compass, that god
of the West. But in exchange, they began to hear the why and sea talking with
the boat. And when blue-tinted land appeared on the horizon, looking as it did
to the mariners of old, all nimbed with mystery, a
few of them felt that our rigorous techniques should leave a door open to those
gods which the modern world tries so hard to exclude." -Bernard Moitessier, 'The Long Way' CLOSE WINDOW
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11.24,
2006. (Day 62)
I started from Koper 2 months ago.
I drank coffee and a little brandy last night with the watchman of the
fishing ship, then he rolled a hashish cigarette, as all the fishermen do
here…. He showed me the ship (Al-Manar) which is the
training ship of the harbor, then showed me all the 46 knots he knew. We talked a lot about the sea and the storms,
and his family. He is 37 years old (looks 45), his wife is 24,
they have a 7 month old and a 7 year old girl.
He has a good life JJJJ. Before this,
I dined in the city, for 1-2 dollars one can get a tasty fresh fish, lamb of
whatever! The bread here has the shape of the pancake. It is very small in size
and they eat it with everything. I went shopping to the city this morning
(including 20 liters of gasoline). My afternoon program: I was working on my
High Frequency radio dipole antenna. A solder joint broke at the shielding of
the coaxial cable. The battery charging is not an easy task here: nobody wants
to give me 220 volt power. For a few
packs of cigarettes – to something happen, this is what you have to do in Africa…
Last night I spent a few hours on the connector of the ship – but it was not
enough L I have spent
so much time on this subject that I rather resort to the nightly begging, maybe
they will give me oneJ. Around evening one can feel the strong
southerly wind. I was drinking tea with
Abdul, his friend and his wife in their home. It is incredible: here everybody
is fishing and smoking hashishJ.
They want me to smuggle his friend to Las Palmas. They did not understand that I had to go alone in my
sailboat. I did the usual interneting in the evening, the internet Cafés close early
here.
11.25,
2006. (Day 63)
Happy Name day, Mommy! I tended to my official stuff before noon – I need one more stamp in my passport…. The mooring
fee was 16 DH, less than $2. After this I went shopping in the harbor store. I
was able to purchase rope, a metal saw and a 13 millimeter wrench. As Karesz used to say, of these never is enoughJ. The harbor boss suggested an evening departure, but
I left at 14:00 hours in the afternoon. The rain started early morning, so everything
is soaking wet, this is the reason that I did not turn on the radio. I do not
radio in the rain, it can get wet too. Of the harbor in short: the fishermen’s
mooring is at the entrance. A teahouse
is located here which sells baked fish, a small inn (an absolute 'knife thrower'
place), a ship store, an electronics shop (GPS, radio) and a church. The
fishing boats are stationing here and alas – I almost forgot: they have 3
gasoline stations too! Further in the commercial harbor is located. 1-2 ferries and 1-2 large ships are stationed
here. Usually 5-6 large ships are anchored here, waiting for their turn. A lot
of harbor guides can be found in these parts. I moored here next to a fishing ship, this is the civilized part of the harbor. The harbor
is so big that even trains are coming-going here. The harbor has a main gate where
the police always asked for my ID. I
started out in 5-6 meter waves and in an approximate Bf.4 wind. It rained the
whole night with lightning, visibility was very bad. It, however, became better
at dawn as the Moon illuminated the ocean.
11.26,
2006. (Day 64)
Unfortunately I had a
westerly wind till late afternoon – this was not very advantageous.
Occasionally variable wind conditions prevailed with approx. 4-5 meter Westerly waves, sailing under these conditions was not pleasant. I developed a
fever at night and my stomach started to ache. I had a lot of nightmares during
the night.
11.27,
2006. (Day 65)
I am sick!! In times like
this, one does not desire to sail. Then the cold I caught in Malaga came up again, plus my bowel infection in Morocco. The food
service was not very hygienic… I could not even get on the radio. The whole day
I just lay flat and took it easy. Beside
tea and soup, I don’t take in anything, it would come out immediately. Bolus astringents and algopyrin.
The ship is guided by the autopilot approximately in a good direction…I fear
that if my condition does not get better, I could easily dehydrate and get
weak, this is not a good thing to happen on the ocean. In times like this, even
pulling on the rope is a difficult task.
11.28, 2006, (Day 66)
I feel a little better. I
could eat some crackers in the morning, then I got on
the radio. Unfortunately I could hear them only weakly,
despite they could hear me well. I again will look at the antenna in Las Palmas. After the radio I sewed the jib sail which was torn
in 4 places. I sat at the front deck for the sewing, this way it was simpler
and faster than if I did it in the cockpit. We can sail today again with 4-5
knots. I did yesterday 80 nm which is very favorable, despite the boat bottom
being full with algae. If I get better I will scrape it off. (The waves coming from the rear sometimes
turn the boat away from the right direction.) I have good luck with the
weather: the sun is out, 26 degrees C, air pressure and the wind cooperate – Bf.
3-4. The wind intensified in the
afternoon to a Bf.5, so I took down the big sail and just had the jib sail
on. The herpes surfaced on my mouth,
that is, some 'things' developed in my mouth – hopefully the last gift from Morocco…1-2
large ships passed me at night, it is the average number. I think as I will approach Las Palmas, the ship traffic will increase.
11.29,
2006. (Day 67)
I got on the radio in the morning, unfortunately they could receive me very
weakly. Gyuri
read the list of messages from home. I
would like to write an article in the Sailing Magazine, but I have no power. My
belly still hurts and I hardly ate anything in 3 days, consequently I weakened
a bit…I sail with a strong Bf.5 wind now, in times like this, the wind
generator supplies the electricity (fundamentally at Bf.4-5, variable intensity
wind.) Again, I ate only crackers, soup
and toast today, but a little more than yesterday. Hope I will recover before Las Palmas! Interesting…many
small fish (about 20 cm long) are swimming next to me, it appears as they are
playing with the bow-wave of the boat. In
reality the algae and the accumulated plant matter attracts them and that is
why they are following me. This is a
splendid meal for them. As mentioned,
the bottom of my ship is full of algae and plants. The ship is growing a beard,
like meJ. The main
reason for this is that my ship's painted line is below the water line. So, a 5-10
cm band is under water, but this area is not protected by the alga repellant.
The algae for sure, appeared! (When I painted the repellant on the boat, I
painted it over the water line, but not high enough.) By the afternoon I
recovered enough to be able to fish. 5-6
meter waves, Bf.5 wind, 4 knot average speed, this may not be a good fishing
time. But a good Hungarian 'fishermen's-soup' could do much good for the
stomach. I will conduct a thorough washing – all the pots, the silverware – everything.
(Hygienics is important on a shipJ). By the evening I can see Alegranza,
the most northerly island of the Canary's. Las Palmas is 120 nm from here, my next harbor of my plans.
Dinner: millet with vegetables – possibly too heavy food for my stomach. (I
left some for tomorrow.)
11.30,
2006. (Day 68)
I had no time for radio because
I was washing and I could not stopJ. I was washing the whole time before noon. The washing
process on the Carina: 1. the clothes are tied to a rope and are dragged in the
water after the ship, for 30-60 minutes; 2. I place the load in a pail with
washing powder. Soak for about 20 minutes; 3. Washing the clothes with my hands
in the pail; 4.
10 minutes rinsing on the rope; 5. Re-wash in
sweet-water (I bypass this step on the ocean because on the ship the sweet
water is scarce). At 8:33 I monitored channels 10 and 16. In this area 8:33 and 20:33
are the times when the weather forecasts are transmitted. Could not hear
anything, maybe I am still too far to the North. (There is no service like this
at the shores of MoroccoJ. I can not go
straight to Las
Palmas because I
would have tailwind. In this case the fock would just
flip-and-flop from one side to the other. So, I have to bypass Alegranza and Lanzaro with a
necessary detour. But even so due to the
waves the ship has a 15-20 degree play in maintaining
the correct direction. Misty was right
in that a jib is sufficient in this part of the ocean. Rotorman
recommended 2 jibs for the trade wind area of Atlantic Ocean, but these winds start blowing 200 nm further down, south
of the Canary Islands…At noon
I took a shower with the help of the pail – it felt very good. (The water is about 23º here.) The
weather is sensational, I dried fast.
During lunch, I realized that with a big beard like this, it is not easy
to live in a civilized world. It is
lucky that others don’t see it. With a
big beard like this, one has to eat differently than without it. I ate müzli and
apples, later also bread with pâté, unfortunately. I should not have, at dawn I got my strong
belly ache back. I could see now the lights of Las Palmas despite I am 30 nm from it.
12.01,
2006. (Day 69)
I traveled a little with the motor,
charging the batteries. Then log writing.
Hopefully I can finish the article for the Sailing MagazineJ. Got on the radio. With
bordering a miracle, Karesz received my position. The
process is a little long, but successful!!
Weak winds prevail the whole day. As I approach Las Palmas, the current ceases and the wind is more from the South. A sailor in Spain told me about this but unfortunately it did not
register with me sufficiently. The harbor is 10 nm from here, but unfortunately
I proceed very slowly. It is going to be a night mooring what I don't like
much. Unknown harbor,
lots-of-lots-of lightsJ. (Too bad, I don't have enough fuel to go all
the way with the motor. I m going to buy more reserve fuel next time.) At 8 in the evening I moored in the
marina. The office is already closed, so
I tie up at the pier before it for the night.
Then I went to look around a little in the city. It is Friday night and
there are happenings everywhereJ.
(This is so in every country!). I drank
a Miguel beer and eat a local cookie - I forgot the name of it....then I
stopped by in a Chinese 'all-you-can-eat' place. Unfortunately I forgot about my bowel
infection and I ate good portion. In-between it occurred to me that I should
not overload my stomach! (My stomach stood the test!). A nice woman invited me for a cola – don't
know the reason why? But it tasted good,
I thank you! I could hardly sleep at
night - so big was the noise. On the
ocean, one loses the sense of the noiseJ.
12.02,
2006. (Day 70)
I relocated in the morning to
where the chief honcho indicated it with his motorboat, but I tanked up before.
(I have now 60 liters of fuel.) Before I could tie up, my motor quit, so I had
to row in place. Reminded
me of sailing on the BalatonJ. I am at the entrance
to pier 15, in the first slot to the left. (The trouble with the motor is not
serious, it is a sparkplug problem. I have to use the motor at higher revolutions.) The harbor is well equipped – several sailing
shops, workshops. One can wash here too naturally, but I don't have to do it nowJ. I purchased a
few minor items in the sailing shop what can come good on a long trip. After
this I engaged in a longer than average duration conversation with one of my
neighbors, Pierre de Luna. A Canadian
and he is sailing with his wife, they are also leaving soon…He had some useful
advises concerning the Cape Verde islands. Loaned me a book 'Atlantic Islands' by Anne Hammick,
plus an addition to the book. After this I went to town to take care of
official matters. Exchanged money, it is not simple here. I had to hurry
because the banks close at 1 PM. Taking care it all, I stuck in the city. The biggest shopping street here is Calle Mayor de Triana, already in
Christmas ornaments. Is it going to be
'Bronze Sunday' tomorrow? I don’t know, I will figure
it out later. Then I admired the Cathedral. In-between all this, I find myself in the
house of Columbus. This is Old-Town, I feel myself a little in the 16th
– 17th century. But now I have to return to the boat. On the way I admire the
statue of Columbus and many more attractions, but I leave some for
tomorrow too. In the afternoon I was working on the 220 volt cable – it had an
intermittent problem. Several neighbors
happily came to helpJ. I am standing next to Fantasy
I., they did not want to believe that I am an electrical
engineer. I did not want to say that I
am not on the top and the screwdriver almost falls out of my hand. Following this, I again measured the HF
antenna. I resoldered the connection, hopefully it
will work. I will check it out tomorrow
morning. Then I went shopping with my
long list: 2 kg honey, 2 kg soup ingredients, about 10 chocolates. Wine for
Christmas and the New Year's Day – what I re-package in plastic containers - and
mustard! Cold cuts, cheese, eggs,
margarine. Fruit, vegetables, bread,
bottled water (10 liters). 1 liter brandy. I bought so
much stuff that I could hardly carry it.
Fortunately a few sailor passer-byes helped. When I am on my boat, many people come to see
me. Unfortunately lot of people confuses the Hungarian flag with the
Italian….When I correct them, they fake that they know where Hungary is. I will
give them Bp. poz.! I am getting on
the internet at the evening, then I am going to my
favorite Chinese buffet… I was going through the Cape Verde notes till 2 AM
in the café…then I was packing until 4:30
on the boat.
12.03,
2006. (Day 71)
I got up early because I had
to test my radio at 9. Good news: it
works again! Occasionally the antenna is acting up (but I can do soldering only
in the harbor.) in the afternoon I bought about 30 liters of water, müzli, and crackers.
After this I was looking for my 'treasure box' - I keep everything in it. Every bank card, injection records, cash, licenses,
my insurance. Not here! Possibly I lost it yesterday. Dad reduced the charge
limit on my charge card to 20 forints – only this
much can use the lucky oneJ.
I finalized the antenna suspension – there is another test tomorrow. I started the never- ending checking of
everything…I announced the loss of my box at the harbor police. Tomorrow I will do the same at the marina
office – maybe somebody turned it in. I
met an Englishman, his card was swallowed by the
automatic machine. Fate brought us
together – he was a big talkerJ.
Translated by Pali-N6DMV/HA5CCV