The Sailor of Sailors Dreams of Remote Horizons. (Centkiewicz )

 

My yacht log   -   11.24 - 12.03, 2006

"In the beginning they could not understand my insistence on getting away from the compass, that god of the West. But in exchange, they began to hear the why and sea talking with the boat. And when blue-tinted land appeared on the horizon, looking as it did to the mariners of old, all nimbed with mystery, a few of them felt that our rigorous techniques should leave a door open to those gods which the modern world tries so hard to exclude." -Bernard Moitessier, 'The Long Way' CLOSE WINDOW

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11.24, 2006. (Day 62)

I started from Koper 2 months ago.  I drank coffee and a little brandy last night with the watchman of the fishing ship, then he rolled a hashish cigarette, as all the fishermen do here…. He showed me the ship (Al-Manar) which is the training ship of the harbor, then showed me all the 46 knots he knew.  We talked a lot about the sea and the storms, and his family. He is 37 years old (looks 45), his wife is 24, they have a 7 month old and a 7 year old girl.  He has a good life JJJJ.  Before this, I dined in the city, for 1-2 dollars one can get a tasty fresh fish, lamb of whatever! The bread here has the shape of the pancake. It is very small in size and they eat it with everything. I went shopping to the city this morning (including 20 liters of gasoline). My afternoon program: I was working on my High Frequency radio dipole antenna. A solder joint broke at the shielding of the coaxial cable. The battery charging is not an easy task here: nobody wants to give me 220 volt power.  For a few packs of cigarettes – to something happen, this is what you have to do in Africa… Last night I spent a few hours on the connector of the ship – but it was not enough L  I have spent so much time on this subject that I rather resort to the nightly begging, maybe they will give me oneJ.  Around evening one can feel the strong southerly wind.  I was drinking tea with Abdul, his friend and his wife in their home. It is incredible: here everybody is fishing and smoking hashishJ. They want me to smuggle his friend to Las Palmas. They did not understand that I had to go alone in my sailboat.  I did the usual interneting in the evening, the internet Cafés close early here.

 

11.25, 2006. (Day 63)

Happy Name day, Mommy!  I tended to my official stuff before noon – I need one more stamp in my passport…. The mooring fee was 16 DH, less than $2. After this I went shopping in the harbor store. I was able to purchase rope, a metal saw and a 13 millimeter wrench. As Karesz used to say, of these  never is enoughJ. The harbor boss suggested an evening departure, but I left at 14:00 hours in the afternoon.  The rain started early morning, so everything is soaking wet, this is the reason that I did not turn on the radio. I do not radio in the rain, it can get wet too. Of the harbor in short: the fishermen’s mooring is at the entrance.  A teahouse is located here which sells baked fish, a small inn (an absolute 'knife thrower' place), a ship store, an electronics shop (GPS, radio) and a church. The fishing boats are stationing here and alas – I almost forgot: they have 3 gasoline stations too! Further in the commercial harbor is located.  1-2 ferries and 1-2 large ships are stationed here. Usually 5-6 large ships are anchored here, waiting for their turn. A lot of harbor guides can be found in these parts. I moored here next to a fishing ship, this is the civilized part of the harbor. The harbor is so big that even trains are coming-going here. The harbor has a main gate where the police always asked for my ID.  I started out in 5-6 meter waves and in an approximate Bf.4 wind. It rained the whole night with lightning, visibility was very bad. It, however, became better at dawn as the Moon illuminated the ocean.

 

11.26, 2006. (Day 64)

Unfortunately I had a westerly wind till late afternoon – this was not very advantageous. Occasionally variable wind conditions prevailed with approx. 4-5 meter Westerly waves, sailing under these conditions was not pleasant. I developed a fever at night and my stomach started to ache. I had a lot of nightmares during the night.

 

11.27, 2006. (Day 65)

I am sick!! In times like this, one does not desire to sail. Then the cold I caught in Malaga came up again, plus my bowel infection in Morocco.  The food service was not very hygienic… I could not even get on the radio. The whole day I just lay flat and took it easy.  Beside tea and soup, I don’t take in anything, it would come out immediately. Bolus astringents and algopyrin. The ship is guided by the autopilot approximately in a good direction…I fear that if my condition does not get better, I could easily dehydrate and get weak, this is not a good thing to happen on the ocean. In times like this, even pulling on the rope is a difficult task.


11.28, 2006, (Day 66)

I feel a little better. I could eat some crackers in the morning, then I got on the radio. Unfortunately I could hear them only weakly, despite they could hear me well. I again will look at the antenna in Las Palmas. After the radio I sewed the jib sail which was torn in 4 places. I sat at the front deck for the sewing, this way it was simpler and faster than if I did it in the cockpit. We can sail today again with 4-5 knots. I did yesterday 80 nm which is very favorable, despite the boat bottom being full with algae. If I get better I will scrape it off.  (The waves coming from the rear sometimes turn the boat away from the right direction.) I have good luck with the weather: the sun is out, 26 degrees C, air pressure and the wind cooperate – Bf. 3-4.  The wind intensified in the afternoon to a Bf.5, so I took down the big sail and just had the jib sail on.  The herpes surfaced on my mouth, that is, some 'things' developed in my mouth – hopefully the last gift from Morocco…1-2 large ships passed me at night, it is the average number.  I think as I will approach Las Palmas, the ship traffic will increase.

 

11.29, 2006. (Day 67)

I got on the radio in the morning, unfortunately they could receive me very weakly.  Gyuri read the list of messages from home.  I would like to write an article in the Sailing Magazine, but I have no power. My belly still hurts and I hardly ate anything in 3 days, consequently I weakened a bit…I sail with a strong Bf.5 wind now, in times like this, the wind generator supplies the electricity (fundamentally at Bf.4-5, variable intensity wind.)  Again, I ate only crackers, soup and toast today, but a little more than yesterday. Hope I will recover before Las Palmas!  Interesting…many small fish (about 20 cm long) are swimming next to me, it appears as they are playing with the bow-wave of the boat.  In reality the algae and the accumulated plant matter attracts them and that is why they are following me.  This is a splendid meal for them.  As mentioned, the bottom of my ship is full of algae and plants. The ship is growing a beard, like meJ.  The main reason for this is that my ship's painted line is below the water line. So, a 5-10 cm band is under water, but this area is not protected by the alga repellant. The algae for sure, appeared! (When I painted the repellant on the boat, I painted it over the water line, but not high enough.) By the afternoon I recovered enough to be able to fish.  5-6 meter waves, Bf.5 wind, 4 knot average speed, this may not be a good fishing time. But a good Hungarian 'fishermen's-soup' could do much good for the stomach. I will conduct a thorough washing – all the pots, the silverware – everything. (Hygienics is important on a shipJ). By the evening I can see Alegranza, the most northerly island of the Canary's. Las  Palmas is 120 nm from here, my next harbor of my plans. Dinner: millet with vegetables – possibly too heavy food for my stomach. (I left some for tomorrow.)

 

11.30, 2006. (Day 68)

I had no time for radio because I was washing and I could not stopJ. I was washing the whole time before noon.  The washing process on the Carina: 1. the clothes are tied to a rope and are dragged in the water after the ship, for 30-60 minutes;  2. I place the load in a pail with washing powder. Soak for about 20 minutes;  3. Washing the clothes with my hands in the pail;  4. 10 minutes rinsing on the rope; 5. Re-wash in sweet-water (I bypass this step on the ocean because on the ship the sweet water is scarce).  At 8:33 I monitored channels 10 and 16. In this area 8:33 and 20:33 are the times when the weather forecasts are transmitted. Could not hear anything, maybe I am still too far to the North. (There is no service like this at the shores of MoroccoJ.  I can not go straight to Las Palmas because I would have tailwind. In this case the fock would just flip-and-flop from one side to the other. So, I have to bypass Alegranza and Lanzaro with a necessary detour.  But even so due to the waves the ship has a 15-20 degree play in maintaining the correct direction.  Misty was right in that a jib is sufficient in this part of the ocean. Rotorman recommended 2 jibs for the trade wind area of Atlantic Ocean, but these winds start blowing 200 nm further down, south of the Canary Islands…At noon I took a shower with the help of the pail – it felt very good.  (The water is about 23º here.) The weather is sensational, I dried fast.  During lunch, I realized that with a big beard like this, it is not easy to live in a civilized world.  It is lucky that others don’t see it.  With a big beard like this, one has to eat differently than without it.  I ate müzli and apples, later also bread with pâté, unfortunately.  I should not have, at dawn I got my strong belly ache back. I could see now the lights of Las Palmas despite I am 30 nm from it.

 

12.01, 2006. (Day 69)

I traveled a little with the motor, charging the batteries. Then log writing.  Hopefully I can finish the article for the Sailing MagazineJ.  Got on the radio.  With bordering a miracle, Karesz received my position. The process is a little long, but successful!!  Weak winds prevail the whole day. As I approach Las Palmas, the current ceases and the wind is more from the South.  A sailor in Spain told me about this but unfortunately it did not register with me sufficiently. The harbor is 10 nm from here, but unfortunately I proceed very slowly. It is going to be a night mooring what I don't like much.  Unknown harbor, lots-of-lots-of lightsJ.  (Too bad, I don't have enough fuel to go all the way with the motor.  I m going to buy more reserve fuel next time.)  At 8 in the evening I moored in the marina.  The office is already closed, so I tie up at the pier before it for the night.  Then I went to look around a little in the city. It is Friday night and there are happenings everywhereJ. (This is so in every country!).  I drank a Miguel beer and eat a local cookie - I forgot the name of it....then I stopped by in a Chinese 'all-you-can-eat' place.  Unfortunately I forgot about my bowel infection and I ate good portion. In-between it occurred to me that I should not overload my stomach! (My stomach stood the test!).  A nice woman invited me for a cola – don't know the reason why?  But it tasted good, I thank you!  I could hardly sleep at night - so big was the noise.  On the ocean, one loses the sense of the noiseJ.

 

12.02, 2006. (Day 70)

I relocated in the morning to where the chief honcho indicated it with his motorboat, but I tanked up before. (I have now 60 liters of fuel.) Before I could tie up, my motor quit, so I had to row in place.  Reminded me of sailing on the BalatonJ. I am at the entrance to pier 15, in the first slot to the left. (The trouble with the motor is not serious, it is a sparkplug problem. I have to use the motor at higher revolutions.)  The harbor is well equipped – several sailing shops, workshops. One can wash here too naturally, but I don't have to do it nowJ.  I purchased a few minor items in the sailing shop what can come good on a long trip. After this I engaged in a longer than average duration conversation with one of my neighbors, Pierre de Luna.  A Canadian and he is sailing with his wife, they are also leaving soon…He had some useful advises concerning the Cape Verde islands.  Loaned me a book 'Atlantic Islands' by Anne Hammick, plus an addition to the book.  After this I went to town to take care of official matters. Exchanged money, it is not simple here. I had to hurry because the banks close at 1 PM.  Taking care it all, I stuck in the city.  The biggest shopping street here is Calle Mayor de Triana,  already in Christmas ornaments.  Is it going to be 'Bronze Sunday' tomorrow? I don’t know, I will figure it out later.  Then I admired the Cathedral.  In-between all this, I find myself in the house of Columbus. This is Old-Town, I feel myself a little in the 16th – 17th century. But now I have to return to the boat. On the way I admire the statue of Columbus and many more attractions, but I leave some for tomorrow too. In the afternoon I was working on the 220 volt cable – it had an intermittent problem.  Several neighbors happily came to helpJ.  I am standing next to Fantasy I., they did not want to believe that I am an electrical engineer.  I did not want to say that I am not on the top and the screwdriver almost falls out of my hand.  Following this, I again measured the HF antenna. I resoldered the connection, hopefully it will work.  I will check it out tomorrow morning.  Then I went shopping with my long list: 2 kg honey, 2 kg soup ingredients, about 10 chocolates. Wine for Christmas and the New Year's Day – what I re-package in plastic containers - and mustard!  Cold cuts, cheese, eggs, margarine.  Fruit, vegetables, bread, bottled water (10 liters). 1 liter brandy. I bought so much stuff that I could hardly carry it.  Fortunately a few sailor passer-byes helped.  When I am on my boat, many people come to see me. Unfortunately lot of people confuses the Hungarian flag with the Italian….When I correct them, they fake that they know where Hungary is.  I will give them Bp. poz.!  I am getting on the internet at the evening, then I am going to my favorite Chinese buffet… I was going through the Cape Verde notes till 2 AM in the café…then I was packing until 4:30 on the boat.

 

12.03, 2006. (Day 71)

I got up early because I had to test my radio at 9.  Good news: it works again! Occasionally the antenna is acting up (but I can do soldering only in the harbor.) in the afternoon I bought about 30 liters of water, müzli, and crackers.  After this I was looking for my 'treasure box'  - I keep everything in it.  Every bank card, injection records, cash, licenses, my insurance. Not here! Possibly I lost it yesterday. Dad reduced the charge limit on my charge card to 20 forints – only this much can use the lucky oneJ. I finalized the antenna suspension – there is another test tomorrow.  I started the never- ending checking of everything…I announced the loss of my box at the harbor police.  Tomorrow I will do the same at the marina office – maybe somebody turned it in.  I met an Englishman, his card was swallowed by the automatic machine.  Fate brought us together – he was a big talkerJ.

 

                                                                                                Translated by Pali-N6DMV/HA5CCV