03-09-2007 LK

The Sailor of Sailors Dreams of Remote Horizons. (Centkiewicz)

My Yacht-log 2007.02.27-03.04

2007.02.27 (157^th day)

Today I mapped the island some.

Going to- and from the beach is a problem since I have no dinghy. The local water taxi is too expensive for me, so I am always asking someone for a ride in or out. Not a major problem because my ship is the nearest one. Then I always have to tell them where I came from and who I am and the usual questions (it's getting a bit old). I'm glad for the ride - they're glad because I am an 'interesting' yachtsman. They usually take my picture, though I am no so beautifulJ

The water is clear in the bay and there are fishes as well, but it isn't a diver's paradise. In general I eat bread and salami for breakfast with eggs.

I am thinking about a solution for the (damaged) crosstree, did talk with several shops already, also organized taking down the mast, maybe I can get some help….

2007.02.28. (158^th day)

Built a ladder next to the mast today and managed to unscrew the crosstrees. At least I don't have to take the mast down again. I've met Tomy yesterday who would have come to help. (The ship is moving back and forth on the anchor, sometimes jerks, sometimes the wind pushes it over in addition to the waves: I don't want to try this alone…)

I swam ashore early afternoon and made friends with the rastas J Then went to Tomy's house for lunch. He fried some chicken with rice, I brought along some french wine:) Tomy is 43, looks more like 25, has 3 children but is living alone. The view from his house is unforgettable. True, the house is very small, (only 2 rooms, like a summer cabin), but very nice. He pulled a sack of marijuana from under the stairs before lunch, could have been about 5 kg. This is completely normal here.J))

I went back to the ship after lunch and got wrapped up in Albert Wass' book:

The Witch of Funtinel so much, that I didn't even go out for the evening.J

2007.03.01. (159^th day).

Went to see Robin in the shop this morning, a nice elderly Englishman who runs the shop with his wife, and told him of my problem. He said he'll come out to the ship after lunch, around 2 p.m. to fix it. He didn't of courseJ

Another boatman promised to come over and will bring his tools, I hope at least he shall come:-)

Bought some lacquer, I am going to fix the Solar Panel with it. External lacquer is perhaps a better solution instead of silicon and polyester.

Everybody says this is Paradise…

Caribbean realities:

1. The morals are a little looser than in Europe. (There was a case where

Mother was selling her daughterJ For this reason too: when the tourists brought in AIDS, very many people got infected in a very short time.

The ratio of AIDS affected people is very high here!!

The local dance is the most erotic that I've ever seen, the nightclubs of Budapest are far behind.J

2. Because of rum and marijuana (Charly), some 70% of the people are living in a haze and at a very slow pace. But this is PARADISE regardless!!!

I like their buses too:

Howling black music, everybody is singing like at a school class outing J Generally crowded without air conditioning, that doesn't bother me - I'm no longer demanding. Sweating together with a few huge blacks whose sweat is dripping on me but even that doesn't bother me anymore.

The people I generally get to know are the water taxi drivers on the beach and the vegetable and marijuana growers. Everybody appears younger here than their age.

This afternoon I've met Kid, an old Dutch boatman. A very good man! His 36 foot ship went aground and sunk 4 years ago (because his wind-steering malfunctioned). Then he bought a 9 meter ship with the help of his brother and friends. He sailed solo around the world around 1998-2001. He likes ports, so he's in no particular hurry…

I have met the local ship owners with Kid's help in the local bar. You can't even list how many there are here…

Most of them have been coming here for 20 – 30 years to sail 4-5 months. They live on Bequia, that's very famous, yet I didn't even know about it. Live music starts in the bar after 8 in the evening and dancing takes place on the sandy beach. I tried dancing later only, because I am unbelievably numb.J

I was introduced to the local celebrities: the Prime Minister of Bequia, who knew

Imre Antal because he was an official delegate at the Hungarian elections to ensure their honesty. (In my opinion he is more of a Governor of the island than P.M….)

Then I've met with an elderly gentleman, who is a Historian (and professor), his theme is the history of the Island. He runs the Museum too. I complained that a ticket costs 15 ec that I thought was a little too expensive.

I have met Rodin who was born here, his parents came from the States of course. He was in Hungary 2 years ago, it's a small world….(He asked for my e-mail address, for he will come again and we could meet. J

I also talked with an American (Salty), who opened a bar and has been living here 4-5 years. Used to be a banker for 25 years which he hated J)))

Many – many interesting people:

2 German cousins. One, (Elvis) is doing business near the ferries, the other works in construction. A nice American, who is captain on a luxury yacht, gave me some ideas for the route. Perhaps I had the best conversations with him.

Or may be with the two Old ones, (Kid and his buddy), who can dance unbelievably, but not quite like Qpsi J.

It was interesting that everybody was older than I. Most people are 60-70 years old J

Many others came yet, (not boatmen but tourists too) and asked many questions, basically I could converse well with everybody.

I was drinking local beer all night, everybody just kept bringing it and I just drank and drankJ Then a water taxi took me to out Carina – he was very kind. He said whenever I need a free water taxi just wave.

2007.03.02. (160^th day)

Got up early. Put things away, made order, it'd be good to start out again.

Did some diving in the morning, there is unbelievable sea-life under water here, even in this closed bay by the town.

Afterwards, as customary, I went to see Robin in the shop, he has a thousand things to do and my case is the least importantJ

He said to unscrew the crosstree and bring it in the shop. He came to Carina while I was diving.

I swam across to Kid around noon, he showed me his ship. An 8 ton, 9 meter wooden ship, built strongly for seagoing. A week ago he had a minor accident and was now working on his ship. He scraped a rock during the night: the wind was strong and the current added to it.

We had curried chicken together for lunch. Then Doug came over and the three of us talked about last night… Kid slept shore, he couldn't go back to his ship.J

Doug came over and the two of us fixed the crosstree.

Then we went over to his ship (type CARENA 37) and did some repairs on that.

Monday, when he was sailing around there, the mounting on his main sail's block broke and the steel cable got wound up on the wind generator: I climbed the mast while Doug was giving me the instructions from below. It wasn't a simple task, at dusk in 20 knot winds.

In the evening we drank some and went ashore to attend the Friday night happening. I see more and more familiar faces. There are many tourists as well.

Spent the evening dancing and drinking local beer. I've also met some aquaintances from Sao Vincente whom I spent New Year's eve with (also even before). Young Germans, who are going home in April, and will continue their voyage next year.J

2007.03.03. (161^st day)

I started early (at 7), and went for a little diving after the morning cocoa. The Caribbean is very warm, around 24-26C, so one is not cold even after 1 or 2 hours of diving. The usual many, many fishes and coral everywhere. (Perhaps better for divers than Egypt J

Went to town in the morning to buy some bread for the trip and for next week. Stopped a dinghy for the ride as usual. This is when you to talk to people, slowly I'm getting to know everybody J

Swam over to Doug at 12 noon to help.

A crosstree fastener shackle fell off, that's what had to be fixed in strong winds and at 10m height. Succeeded after a lot of difficulty: I'm improving J

I've heard many, many interesting stories here:

How an American bought an island (Pam) for a dollar from the government in the 50-s… they were drinking together and bargainedJ

or how some people smuggle cocaine out of Venezuela for half a million dollars…

also, how you can obtain a ship freely J))

Then there were the usual hitchhiking stories, a young Englishman is trying to wander all over the area this way, then sail back to Europe in the spring.

Young people: I suggest that you too try hitchhiking and you can get to all places in the world this way at almost no cost to you!!

I took off at 14:30.

Winds: Easterly, Force 5, (sometimes 6 gusty winds)

Temp: 31C

Barometer 1015mb

Sails: jib (last used it off the African coast), and 2/3 reefed mains'l.

Sea: seagulls and flying fish. One flying fish fell into the ship in the evening but I threw it back.

The target: St. George, Granada.

Course: 210°

Distance: 65nm

Naturally, a few showers caught up with me, and the wind got stronger at times to force 6. Thus at 9 p.m. I took down the mains'l, even so I could make 3.5 - 4 knots in the right direction (in half wind).

Didn't sleep much in the evening, there weren't many ships in the vicinity.

At these times, near the coast I'm catching max.10 minute naps, then I check the wind (it's strength and direction changes frequently) and the traffic around.

This kind- and amount of sleep was now enough.

2007.03.04. (162^nd day)

I tied up at 11 in the morning at the Granada Yacht Club. (St. George, Granada).

They wanted to send me away at first, but now I can stay one day J

Most of the ships are at anchor here in the bay and are coming and going in dinghies.

Immigration, duties and other paperwork took about 15 minutes and cost 78 ec

(about 27 euro). They charge some duty everywhere in the Caribbean area.

Started to fix the solar panel. Put a few layers of lacquer externally. Perhaps it will seep into the cracks and will keep out the seawater. Bought 20 liters of fuel. Cheaper than in Europe, 1 liter = 1 $US. (Here they measure in gallons, I had a hard time figuring it out J The gas pump is only 5 minutes walking distance, wasn't too bad.

Here too, they didn't ask for the special visa that became effective until April because of the World Championship of Cricket. I saved another $100 US.

Tried to tidy up a little, but increasingly incapable to do it: too little space and too much stuff.

The City: calm and quiet Sunday. They were trying to sell me all kinds of drugs, but I just laugh them off anymore. I like the look of the town very much, though there aren't many old houses (a few churches, the burned-out Parliament and Fort George). The view toward the Sea is perfect!!!

Granada just recently became independent, from Venezuela I believe …

Flags are everywhere advertising Granada's Independence.

Did a little shopping, bought 2 kg of bread and 2 kg bananas. Will be at sea for about a week.

There are very beautiful sandy beaches on the edge of town, I'll go diving tomorrow morning.

Had fried chicken and fried potatoes for dinner at a local restaurant, sparing the salami.

This evening (also in the afternoon) I tried to connect to the WLAN on the Internet in the bar at the Marina – again without success. They said it was OK yesterday. It doesn't matter, at least I can charge the laptop battery and drink some Carib Lager that I'll have little chance to do later on.

Next Goal: Islas Los Testigos (a Venezuelan island) for a little diving. I heard it is one of the most beautiful parts.

Course: 240°

Distance: 90.7nm

Caribbean exchange rates:

1 $US = 2.67 ec, 1 euro = 3 ec

Prices:

3-4 ec a beer (could be 6 ec in the disco),

5-7 ec fried chicken with potatoes (max 10 ec) in a local restaurant.

1 kg bread cost 3 ec.

A meal could cost 50 – 70 ec at the tourist traps.

(translated by Laszlo AA7UY)