The sailor’s sailor is dreaming of faraway horizons. (Centkiewicz)

My Yacht Log 2007.03.25 - 04.01. Organizing the Panama transit.

Interesting Sites:

1. An American painter’s web-page with whom I met in Colon: SV Pacifico CSY 44 WO (Gary Kanzler and Susan Fox), http://www.kanzlerfox.com/

2. A very nice English couple’s page: we also met in Colon: www.maggieandnathan.com. They will be sailing on a similar course to mine. I hope we can radio with each other.

3. Oystein Djonne Norwegian sailor’s page: http://www./valkyrien.tk/. He and his friend started sailing in a 22 foot ship on an around the World voyage. I hope we’ll meet on the other side of the Canal. So far we’re e-mailing only.

2007.03.25. (183^rd day) (Cont’d/tr)

Afternoon my anchor slipped, therefore I put another, larger, 12 kg four pronged one as well with 20m of chain and 35m of line (depth is 12.5m).

The muddy bottom of Guardien isn’t any good, slipping frequently occurs here.

So now there are two anchors out. The Marina would cost $20, so I remain at anchor. Left from the Canal entrance is the sailboat anchorage, where presently are 50 sailboats at anchor. (My map is 1984 ed. BA26066).

A French ship’s captain invited me for a drink in the evening. The wife has 6 times, the husband 9 times transited the Canal (in a 6-meter ship on one occasion) and always enjoyed it very much. They’ll probably start in about 2 days. Presently they have a 42 footer, and their goal is French Polynesia, where their 14 old son will take an exam.

2007.03.26. (184^TH day)

Woke up at 3 in the morning, it’s hard to return to normal sleeping hours. True, I always have something to do in the ship. Packing things, tidying up (5 people will sleep here) and lubricating the drill motor.

Then, after a great breakfast I hitchhiked a dinghy, which took me ashore. A nice, young Spanish couple (in an 11-year-old ship) who are not going to transit the Canal, because she wants to go back to Europe. This is my method here too; I usually hitchhike sailing people, who will take me ashore out of kindness.

This way I’m slowly getting acquainted with everybody in the Bay.

Here, you can retain an Agent for $250-300, or for $25-50 even the taxi drivers will help the sailors among the labyrinth of offices. An aggressive driver wanted $30 to help me, but I have no need for it. True, it’s more tiring this way and more difficult, but cheaper.

Since, at first I didn’t know the town I took a taxi to the offices, but later I didn’t have to because I got to know Colon.

In town the taxis are 1 dollar regardless of distance. Interestingly I took taxis four times during the forenoon, I’ve never ridden taxis so much in my life. And the driver didn’t know either where the offices are…

First I took a propane tank to be filled. Then went to three Immigration Offices, for all kinds of stamps and got a $10 visa (had to have a picture made before and many photocopies of everything.

Nobody tells you anything; you never know what has to be done, it’s quite interesting. True, the other sailors are helping, but their information isn’t always accurate.

Afternoon: I accidentally found the Puerto Cristobal Cap. building, where I paid $39 for a cruising permit and also dropped $10 for check-in. True, I was late again, because one must always check-in at the Port Captain upon arrival. They want passport, visa, ship’s papers and crew list everywhere. Made many unnecessary trips, like to Pilot Control, but I’d rather not talk about this. Gas fill up (propane/tr) cost $4.78US.

Holiday feast in town: sweet potatoes, pasta with pork chili ($1.50).

Basically everything cost 1 dollar here, i.e. Panama beer at the Marina bar and a bowl of soup in town, which is the lunch of the average Panamanian (and mine too).

A Canadian, who came from Greece, took me back to my ship, but he too will not transit the Canal, rather stays in the Caribbean. The bad news is; that there are ships which have been here for ten days already, waiting to transit…

Dinner: skipped it, my stomach isn’t quite OK yet. I ate on the street in Columbia and it wasn’t overly hygienic. Taking Bonus adstringens again.

Toilet: Necessary to have during transit, but I haven’t any. Greater problem is that there will be six of us in the ship, which are a few too many J

Of course I remember the Nova (B-18) tours, when there were six of us many times, but now my ship is full anyway!!

Everybody says that Colon is dangerous, so far I had no bad experience. Of course I look like a homeless person, long beard and a dirty polo shirt, so nobody would want to rob me J

2007.03.27. (185^th day)

Got up early in the morning to prepare my fishing gear. Unfortunately I either lost 30 m of fishing line (very strong No.2 line) or it was stolen. After 8 a.m. a Cartagenian acquaintance took me ashore. Together we went to Control Pilot (Canal Directorate). They are going to survey the ship on Thursday. That time they’ll determine whether the ship is fit for transit.

Spent 4 hours on the Internet in the afternoon, to answer correspondence only.

Met Patrick (47) and his girlfriend in the bar and had a good chat. He came from the States and has been sailing in the Caribbean for 4 years, but he enjoys rather quiet sailing, not sure if he’ll transit the Canal. They’ve met with Attila also, who’s been sailing in the area with his girlfriend for 3 years in a 31 foot ship. Unfortunately I didn’t meet him, we missed each other, but were corresponding.

Not many Hungarians here, Attila, Géza, myself (and a couple of more for shorter time).

Then I met a few American veterans and sailors in the bar and talked with them also. They are going to help me repair the stays and will give me a new one to replace the broken stay.

Later in the evening I met a French couple who are sailing in a 36 foot ship toward South America and they’re painters. Their ship is also their studio, so it’s a tight squeeze inside.

In the evening a solo sailor came to my ship who’s been sailing alone for 15 years, but he’s getting tired of it and might sell his ship J

Told me about his adventures in Columbia and naturally, sailing also came into the conversation. At such times 60 knot winds and 10 meter waves come up, which would be frightening even in a 40 foot ship, and couldn’t even mention Carina in those…

Radioed in the evening, 14.287MHz will be the new frequency.

19:00 (00:00)UTC AA7UY, Laci, Nevada, 5-5

20:00 I heard nothing.

Dinner: bean soup with Erős Pista (Strong Steve/tr) and lot of onions, held a Hungarian day today.

Slowly I’m getting to know the 40-50 ships in the Bay, true, 4-5 ships come and 4-5 leave daily. My ship is anchored in the first place in the area, so I can hitch a ride with anybody J

2007.033.28. (186^th day)

(“Toilet problem”)

Got up early. Was able to remove the broken stay from the mast with great difficulty. Built a fixed tower from the liferaft, three 25 l cans and a bucket, and so I could reach it (the mast couldn’t take my weight if I climbed it). True, it wasn’t simple, because a bolt had a counter nut on it and that was a two handed operation. In other words I was hanging on with my third hand.

Breakfast: none today.

Hitchhiked to the beach, a french family took me, they left two years ago. Their goal: French Polynesia. Interestingly, they crossed the Atlantic in May (Canary Islands – Martinique) in 4 weeks but it wasn’t too windy then. The ideal time period is from November to March, this is when the Tradewinds are the steadiest.

Interneting in town. Then lunch, a bowl of local soup that I like for a dollar. It contains a lot of greens and meat. Best thing is that it also has corn in it.

Went to my American acquaintances to make up the new wire rope. The American fishing boat’s name is Pathfinder, docked in Puerto Cristobal. The First Officer, Ed, and even the Captain too, helped me… Unfortunately I couldn’t find any clamps, checked in two shops, there’s none in Colon. The Americans invited me for lunch, fish soup and a good coffee together. It is possible that the Captain and one technician will come over as linehandlers on Carina for the Canal transit. Walked all over their boat, it’s better equipped than a Moroccan, Tunisian or Algerian fishing boat J

Tito, who promised me a chemical toilet, said that there won’t be any for tomorrow. So I was looking for a toilet between 14:00 and 17:00 hours in the harbor and the bar. They had great fun on me over it, but for me it’s a serious problem! The ship’s survey will be tomorrow. Tito gave me 6 bumpers and four lines (50meter, 20mm lines, the rent was $78US, you must have them for the transit. An American sailor helped me take them back to the ship. Found no solution for the toilet, will try to bribe the pilot (about $20 should be enough).

Dinner: preserves on bread.

The deck is in perfect order for the survey.

Radioed at 00:00UTC, spoke with Laci (AA7UY) 5-5, Károly, (PY2KSZ), 5-7, but after 10 minutes of using the radio the 12V power line melted at the tie point, so I turned the radio off.

2007.03.29. (187^th day)

Already awake at 6 in the morning. Today, after 9 comes the ship surveyor, I am a little worried. Ate no breakfast either because of it. For example max. problem: though the ship can carry four people, there will be 6, there is no toilet, the engine is weak and the ship too slow….

At 8:30 I swam over to the small Italian ship (28 foot metal vessel), to see if they had a chemical toilet, but they didn’t. The captain, Frederico, was very kind and ready to help. He also knew Attila, here everybody knows Attila. Yet, in the Bay, we asked 3 or 4 ships, but nobody had chemical WC (I’d need it for an hour only, to show the surveyor). At 9 we went over to my ship for coffee, the surveryor came at 9:00. He didn’t want to board my ship, so we filled out four forms 2.5 hours later in the marina bar, the whole thing took 1 hour.

Lunch: local soup, $1US.

Afternoon: 3 hours of Interneting in town.

An English couple took me back to my ship in the evening.

Started fishing in the evening but unfortunately caught no fish.

A ship promised me a free chemical WC. Is it possible that I’ll have a WC after all?

Dinner: Pork patties, millet and of course onions.

2007.03.30. (188^th day)

Breakfast: same as last night dinner.

I get upearly every morning, unfortunately I am unable to sleep any longer. Often I wake up at night, because I’m used to nightly wake ups. Frederico came over in the morning and we had coffees together. I told him about the ship survey and papers.

Frederico will be line handler for a transiting Italian yacht for $50 today.

In the morning two french kids took me ashore, they went to study. They too will take their exams in French Polynesia in the beginning of summer. At 10:30 the programme “Hátszél” („Following wind”/tr) called and I talked with Szilvi for 15 minutes.

Unfortunately I’m unable to repair the stays because clamps are not available here. I’ll have to go to Panama City for them.

Another bad news: because my ship is so slow, I’ll have to pay $840US in addition to the $600 transit fee. Unfortunately the max. speed of a ship depends on its length, a ship this size should have an 100HP engine to be able to reach 8 knots. Everyone knows that my max speed is 5 to 6 knots.

Spoke with Ed (1^st offcer, Pathfinder). Interestingly the captain will be my crew and professional seamen my linehandlers J

Lunch: soup and rice in a seaman’s bar ($1.50US). I believe I was the first free one in this place J

Afternoon: 3 hours of Interneting in town!!

Ship repairs: the stern light seal developed a leak. Poured the water out and restored it to a lamp again. (see photos).

Dinner: an English ship invited me for dinner. Indian food with lots of beer, wine and whiskey! At the end Maggie tought us how to drink whiskey like Scotsmen, how to taste J Their travel plans are similar to mine. I hope we can talk over the radio (HF, 7080LSB) in the Pacific Ocean.

My Canal transit will be the most extreme thing here. The smallest sailboat, much smaller boats are not even allowed…

2007.03.31. (189^th day)

Woke up at 6:30 in the morning. Of course, I woke twice during the night. No breakfast!

I found two proper clamps in my toolbox and so I could fix the new wire rope. Some young people from the harbor helped.

Forenoon: Cleaning the ship’s bottom (for higher speed), installing lamps (sternlight, forward light, kitchenlight). The forward- and kitchen lights were Okay, but the wiring or the switching panel isn’t ... Radio cable repairs, antenna tuning and testing. Afternoon 22:00UTC, 23:00UTC tried to radio, but made no contact. I’m building a tower again to repair the stays.

Afternoon: a pilot boat came by and began to make friends. When am I going to transit and where I came from. They too are interested.

Lunch: Meat with rice. ($1.05US)

A local wouldn’t leave me alone, kept asking for money. I told him that I was not a rich American tourist, even yelled at him, I became a little too aggressive. We almost got into a fight, but the fellow rather just kept talking.

1 hour Internet in town.

Bought 4.5 gallons of benzin (91) for $12US. Naturally I went on foot to the gas station.

Dinner: scrambled eggs.

Evening program: repairing seals and handling rusty tools.

2007.04.01. (190^th day)

Breakfast: leftover scrambled eggs.

A.M.:

- install lines next to 4 smaller stays that are insurance in case a stay breaks: gives me time to lower the sail so the mast won’t break…

- tiller-holder glued (haven’t repaired it since Gibraltar)

- cleaning the ship’s bottom.

Lunch: with Frederico in town, in a Chinese place (soup $1.20US dollars)

P.M.: drinking beer with Jeff in his ship, he used to be a Formula 1 racer before.

Radio:

23:15 UTC the frequency was busy.

00:00 UTC NV9R, Robi, Chicago, 5-9.

We talked with Frederico unitl dawn and my Russian vodka is gone.

Many ships are looking for crew. Enterprising spirited young people: a ship can also be found in the Caribbean Sea, where one can sail free for a few weeks or months. Meanwhile you can learn how to sail and see the world. Several of them find ships via the Internet, perhaps this method is the cheapest and surest.

In America, rather in the Caribbean Sea the older ships are cheaper. Frederico bought himself a 28 foot metal hulled ship for $7000 US, that came well equipped and works fine.

Unfortunately I heard about a crazy French sailor, who keeps lighting up ships in a Panamanian port south of here, because he’s been sailing alone for a long time (has been alone for too long), and went nuts . (The authorities don’t know what to do with him…)

Calm down: there’s nothing wrong with me!!! J

translated by Laszlo AA7UY