The sailor’s sailor is
dreaming of faraway horizons. (Centkievicz)
My Yacht log 2007.04.10-19.
Text
translation: Laszlo AA7UY.
Everything
is painted illusion, a crumbling
Snow
covered heart and death,
Only
one thing is real, my crying face
And
my two misty eyes shrouded in fog.
You
went to sea: existed then disappeared,
Your
face sails on a hostile sea
today and by now your warm words
at
this minute, sink below the water.
with your eyes went all the precious blue,
With
your graceful head all the nice striae
And
your body , that rides beyond the clouds
Near the sun on ever dizzying wings.
Everything
is painted illusion, a crumbling
Snow
covered heart and death,
Only
one thing is real, my crying face
And
my two misty eyes shrouded in fog.
(Pilinszky: In the Harbour).
(poem translation: L.Karolyi.
wa6ypp)
2007.4.10. (199th day)
Great
day today: I asked Bogi to be my wife.
Before
Engine test and packing.
A few hours on the Marina Terrace, where you can always make new
acquaintances.
For
example: today a Frenchman who used to sail in the
Lunch
at
Then rode a bus to Cocoplum near Portobello. Alvaro Guzman invited us
here earlier. Free boarding (normally costs $90 USD).
Afternoon:
swimming at Cocoplum beach, then we swam to a nearby
island
(1
nm away, but was able to wade a great portion because of the 1 meter depth).
There
we walked, then broke a coconut for Bogi, which we
drank and ate. J
The
rested in lounge chairs J
The
dining room at Cocoplum beach was closed so we walked
to another nearby restaurant. It is
built on a jetty and we were the only customers.
Dinner:
fried fish and fried bananas, octopus with coconuts and of course beer (
After
dinner I asked Bogi to be my wife. She said yes,
though there was a conditionJ
2007.04.11. (200th
day)
Breakfast at the Cocoplum dining room. Scrambled eggs, fried
yucca, fried sausages and naturally coffee.
Great
day today:
We
are going on a Jungle tour in the nearby National Park part of which is
rainforest!
Our
guide arrived too after
(For
further info: http://www.geocities.com/selvaventuras)
Coffee
and briefly comparing plans together…
Between
1st
tour: visiting 3 waterfalls, where we also swam, then through a larger hill.
Many,
many butterflies, lizards…
2nd
tour: Rainforest, then later a lake.
Here
unfortunately were mosquitoes as well, however also tasted one or two
interesting fruits.
We
saw monkeys too in the rainforest.
Most
interesting was a 400 year old tree.
Evening:
a holiday dinner at the restaurant (fried fish, fried bananas, rice with
coconut, squid, plus, of course Chilean wine), later we talked with Erika.
Erika very kindly gave us another two glasses of wine for the evening because
the dining room closed at
A
noisy Panamanian group came to the hotel in the evening, they argued until
dawn, but it didn’t disturb us J
So
far we were the only guests in the hotel.
I
couldn’t sleep well in the soft bed, also watched TV - which I rarely do.
2007.04.12. (201st
day)
Breakfast at the Cocoplum dining room. Scrambled eggs, fried
bananas and of course coffee.
Happy
Erika
missed the Hungarian lesson, we told her 1-2 more important words only.
Erika’s
parents originate from
After
lunch we took a bus to Portobello, where we walked around in town.
The
local cathedral is famous for its black Jesus.
The
fort system is extensive but not contiguous, with old cannons.
Lunch:
local soup, fried fish with fried bananas.
We
met an Austrian couple who have been in
After
the Canal they’ll sail toward
We
bused back to
Yuka,
fish and some unknown local fruits and naturally beer and wind (you can buy a
fine Chilean wine for under $2).
We
talked for hours with the other sailors on the
I
met Harold, a 71 year old Norwegian sailor (he lived in
He
has a long white beard though, like Santa Claus.
One
can talk a lot these times, but unfortunately I soon forget the names L
For
example: I met again with Colombian acquaintances, who
arrived today. They too will spend a minimum of two weeks in
I
started looking for line handlers for the transit, four line handlers are
required. I wrote an ad too, that I posted on the bulletin board. Called in the ad over the VHF radio (channel 74, the common
frequency of sailboats anchored in
Made
our supper together with Bogi, the more delicate ones
Bogi made of course, (like fish).
2007.04.13. (202nd
day)
We
got up at
Last
time the engine overheated, and because of this, unfortunately part of the
plastic exhaust pipe still didn’t seal well.
(There
were 1 or 2 small holes in it).
I
cut another 20cm piece off, then re-secured it and sealed with heat resistant
silicone.
Forenoon
a French couple took us ashore, they have been in
Dad
called me at the bar at
Then
I continued to look for line handlers on the marina terrace.
Herberdt. a
50 year old Swiss engineer, who presently is the crew of Nomadlife
agreed to help me. Then I coordinated with Tito to get the lines on M<onday
morning.
After 11 left with Bogi for the Colon Bus
Terminal and we bused to
We
first went to the hotel where we stayed last and left our luggage.
Then
later went into the town to walk (the
We
tried all kinds of interesting foods on the street along the way.
Bogi also shopped a little, clothes are cheaper here than in
Then
a farewell dinner at the Coca Coffee: fried fish, oysters, octopus, rice, fried
bananas, tuna salad, lentils and 2 large beers!! I finally didn’t get kids
portions J They
were more attentive and kinder than average in the cook-house style restaurant.
We
ate so much that we couldn’t even move afterwards J
So, we cancelled the Friday night Salsa bout.
2007.04.14.
(203rd day).
Got up at 6 in the Malparaiso Hotel. After packing we left at
7 for Albrook and from there to the airport (Tocum).
For breakfast in Albrook at
The airport was 45 minutes from here (ticket $1), because
traffic is light on Saturday morning.
We were together with Bogi an hour at the airport, then
tearful good-bye…
On the way back after 10 traffic jam already on the roads. It
took 2 hours to Albrook in 35°C heat, no air conditioning of course.
From Albrook I bused directly to
Met Larsen and Rönald in the evening, they
promised to be line handlers.
Later
I talked a lot with Frederico, then dinner: meatballs
in tomato sauce (I was asleep by 21).
2007.04.15. (204th
day).
Morning:
cleaning the ship’s hull, then shortening the special
plastic exhaust pipe, which melted when the cooling didn’t work. I found some
more small cracks in it, that part I cut off.
According
to plans three people will sleep in the cabin. With this in mind, I had to pack
and put things in order.
Later: 30 minute engine test, max speed 4 knots, not good
news, but it could be enough – though narrowly L
The engine is running at 75%, I don’t know why (it later
turned out to be a faulty spark plug, but you can’t get this type in
Breakfast: coffee.
Judith and Graham took me ashore, and I sat in a bar for a
beer and hunting for line handlers.
Was talking with Larsen, when a pretty woman asked me,
whether I know of a ship looking for line handlers. A pretty woman can come aboard
as advisor, she smiles and they chat.
I hoestly told her my situation, but she accepted the
discomfort, Natasha is a Dutch traveler who has been traveling around the world
for 4 years, mostly in
Caramba (47 foot catamaran) will be with me tomorrow during
transit, Spoke with the captain, (Pierre, Frenchman) and he kindly offered for
one person to sleep in his ship.
A Dutch traveler (Bem), who has been riding his motorbike in
Nowadays it is increasingly hard to find yachts traveling in
that direction.
Two young New Zealanders arrived today in the harbor (in a 47
foot ship). They came from the north
I checked out tonight and he finished checking in. So we were
together in Puerto Cristobal. Cost $28.20 +$1.5 USD (other things are generally
free), the fellow asked for another $20 USD because of the weekend, I told him
I’m broke and have only $10. It was enough from me (you have to bargain here)…
The young New Zealander was so well groomed and clean that we
took a taxi ($1) because (to walk) with him along would have been dangerous in the
Judith and Graham invied me for dinner in Nomadlife. Dinner
was a very tasty crab. They came over
for drinks from the today arrived neighboring ship.
The captain was the British Olympic Sailing Cadre, who is
presently sailing with his wife and two
year old daughters. Goal:
2007.04.16.
(205th day)
After packing and putting things in order early morning
around 6 , started to clean the ship’s bottom and side of the hull, of course
the propeller too. Algae grow faster in the warm water and unfortunately there
are increasingly more clams as well...
Started out to the Panama Canal Yacht Club around
Dad called me over the bar telephone. Had a
This will not only be a transit, but the most interesting
transit in the history of sailing. I’ve heard that a Canadian 20 footer went
through a few years ago, but my ship is even smaller. I want to exploit the
local slackness (corruption). The Canadian applied for an official permit to do
this.
Transiting today! Starting at
In my opinion it is very important that the crew and advisor
(ACP’s colleague), be keen, ready for anything, accept everything and believes
in this whole thing.
Mark said, that the ACP scheduler (Marine Office Scheduler)
asked so that I call him, because “there was some small error in the system”.
I called then a ACP’s colleague also, then went to Citibank,
2-3 hours before start I was still arguing with the officials…
The problem was that, since I paid on April 2nd,
the transaction code has expired after 10 days. The card’s limit was lowered
again on April 3rd, and the Bank asked for a new transaction code on
April 13th, but couldn’t get
it because of the limit. Unfortunately,
even when I called them on Sunday, they did not inform me of the situation.
I started to arrange things rather late, after
Dad raised the limit and the Bank too, very helpfully,
speeded up .
Then the ACP colleague helped also, by
Got the permit: transit at
Meanwhile I shopped for tonight and tomorrow, then checked
the engine.
Continuously kept in touch with the liners, as to when and
where I shall pick them up.
The liners: Natasha (
Kept the connection with Cristobal Signal
Marine Traffic on the VHF Radio from
I
called them on Larsen’s telephone and they said my advisor is not coming to
work today….
This
meant two problems:
1.
Secure another 4 liners
2.
Another day of delays and tension.
The
liners kindly offered their help for tomorrow. I thanked them, and we drank 1.5
liters of rum and many, many beers to celebrate.
I
didn’t anchor in the evening, instead I tied to
Larsen’s 28-foot ship, Luna. So the two ships were together.
We
all went over to the greater ship. Luna is a sensational vessel. Then we looked
at the
Could only fall asleep late, after
2007.04.17. (206th
day).
Got up early in the morning and entered the
water to check the hull, even cleaned the bottom a
little.
Then checked the engine. One of the plugs didn’t work right. Burned the dirt off the sparkplugs over the gas cooker.
Wiped
off the cables to make everything clean.
Meanwhile
Larsen called the APC to find out today’s transit time. Answer:
Then
after 9 I motored into the
Late
morning in the marina a Canadian lady approached and indicated that she knows
me. - ? ? ? Luis’ (Hungarian radio amateur, who lives in
It
took 6 months for the Canadian couple to get here from
Went to buy rum, fruits and vegetables again.
After
Kept in contact with Cristobal Signal from
Everything
is OK.
Tito
too called ACP again, transit today at
We
circled in the anchorage from
The
answer: all’s well. We’re ready and waiting.
At
He’s
in his thirties, works at Cristobal Signal at the
radio center, sailed all over the world as a professional seaman, as Third
Officer. A kind and helpful man.
At
The large vessel was in the center (over 40 feet), on her
port side was the 32 foot, Junk rigged, two masted ship, then Carina. We used
three lines to tie us together: one forward, one aft and one across the middle.
The “locking” begun, together with a large, 30,000 ton ship,
but we were far from it, about 50 meters away.
Carina’s line handlers had nothing to do because she’s so
small, so the port side lines were handled by the larger vessel’s handlers, the
ones on our starboard side by the Junk rig handlers.
Everything went smoothly, it was very interesting and
exciting to rise together 10 meters per lock.
After the rise ended, there was a small problem, Carina let
the forward line go before the stern line. I already let he stern line go, but
the larger ships handler has not yet finished releasing it from the cleat.
Mike, captain of the larger vessel did’nt notice the situation and put his
engine in gear, his vessel started moving, the line tightened, Carina turned
around, and was towed stern first. I was on the stern and kept Carina from
hitting the larger ship’s wind steering mechanism. Carina being only 1 ton, was
easy to keep her away from the other ship…
The large ship slowed, the stern line slackened and the
handler returned it to me.
Then I waited a little and started the engine. (Officially
the engine is not supposed to stop while in the lock and even after).
Carina started toward the northern buoys of
The engine stopped after 20 minutes, Started checking it,
Cooling system OK, ignition OK…Re-started, but it stopped again after 5
minutes, then I couldn’t even start it L
The buoy wasn’t too far, so the line handlers creatively
started to row toward the buoy. I was busy with the engine.
The pilot boat that came for the Advisor was waiting nervously already. They were about to
call a towboat , but gave us another 5 minutes and the liners managed to row
in!!
Tied to the buoy with 2 lines, also with two lines to the
boat ahead of us. This way we surely couldn’t collide.
The Advisor was in a hurry, he didn’t even want to drink,
just left.
Then I poured a rum and coke for everybody with ice and
started to cook rice.
Went over to the neighboring (Junk rigged) captain to ask
what he thought. We talked some then I went back to the crew and we held our
first conference:
1. I called on VHF
(ch. 69) the larger vessel tied to the other buoy and explained our situation.
He gave me some advice, mostly of technical nature.
Then Larson also called him and inquired about the
possibility of a tow.
Mike, the captain was very helpful and willing. He said he’ll
do everything for Carina that does not endanger his ship and the Advisors
accept. So, if necessary he’ll come back next day for Carina to tow her.
This was of course thanks to Larsen, whom Mike knew from San
Blas already! True, he also knew me from
The rice being ready I fried 15 sausages and cut vegetables
(green peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers) then with a little sauce, everybody liked
everything. Then came two rounds of rum and coke with ice, a little wine.
Everybody loosened up, so we held the next serious conference
about tomorrow’s schedule, plans and possibilities. Then we started to check
and fix the engine together. Natasha meanwhile put some music on, so, in a word
it was a bout-style repair J
The problem turned out to be a clogged fuel line and by
2007.04.18.
(207th day).
Got up at dawn,
Larsen and Herberdt didn’t wake up, so the three of us tried
to rest in the small place. After some 30 minutes the rain eased, so I made a
tarp from the old main sail, a little tent over the cockpit. So Nasha and Rönald could go to sleep there but it didn’t go simply.
I relaxed on the middle bed, that isn’t really a bed because
I could only fit in an S shape on it.
Got up before 6 (the rain has stopped), first I filled up the
tank completely (22 liters, theoretically this should be enough J
Then went into the water to check the hull and propeller,
everything was OK. True, there are many crocodiles here, but others were
swimming too. I.e. Larsen swam across to Mike to talk over the possibilities.
We spoke of the possibilities over the VHF radio several
times yesterday. Captain Mike was maximum help.
They’ll help with everything, even a tow, if the Advisors
permit. It would be against the rules…
I was glad I met Mike and his kind team.
Carina’s advisor, Ivan arrived and we started out first.
Ivan is a pilot in his thirties, college professor who is
being asked to help out as an advisor
during the peak season (April, May), one could tell he’s very pro.
The other advisors were laughing at him, pulling his leg…
We went ahead with 6 persons, a weak following wind, about
3.8 – 4 knot speed. Larsen suggested after the first buoy that everybody go
over to Mike’s. I agreed, this was so much against the rules, that it has never
occurred to me….
Ivan and the other advisor accepted it also (and of course
Mike as well), so Natasha, Rönald and Herberdt
transferred to the larger ship.
Thus
my ship became lighter, I hoisted the
Made
an omelett for breakfast (with coffee, orange
juice, vegetables and fruits….)
Lunch was fried wierners, (with mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard,
vegetables, mountains of fruit and chips.).
In other words I was cookjing, Larsen was steering and did it
very well. I felt they understood each other with Ivan.
Luckily there was no rain, though the sun shore brightly and
made a bimini (tarp/tr) using the
main sail Ivan J
Ivan asked for ice over the radio, a pilot came and brought
ice.J This is
luxury J
This canal system leads through an artificial lake that is an
ecologically protected area and is wonderful!!
There are many, many little islands, jungle, monkeys,
crocodiles. We saw a crocodile and I photographed it!
We caught up with the other two ships sometime before
We were an hour late, but no great problem, they modified the
transit sequenceJ
We didn’t handle anything in the locks, the larger ship’s
crew handled the two (port) lines, the other, 32 foot ship’s crew handled the
two lines on the starboard side.
True, I was often alone in the ship because the Advisor and
my line handlers went over to the larger, more comfortable vessel…I continually
checked the bumpers and lines and of course photographed and made videos.
The mood was festive after the last lock, though Ivan left in
a hurry, a pilot boat came for him.
Sailed under the bridge at
Herberdt steered the ship, I took over for maneuvering. The
fueling dock was full, so I stayed at a buoy, then another and yet at a third
one.
Finally Carina found the 3rd buoy suitable.
I made history today. The smallest sailboat that transited
the Canal following the rules! Though it
isn’t official, I don’t care much about records, but a very interesting moment
during my Voyage J
I thank the liners for their help, these last three days
(Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday) were an unbelievable experience. The real reason
for success was that we could learn from- and were interested in each
other. Thank you! Thank you! Thank You!
We went ashore at 6 and I said good bye to he liners.
I’m glad I could provide them with this huge adventure, I
believe they’ll never forget it. Like they won’t forget: Lalala either.
My message to them: I hope we’ll meet again!!
Once I sat down, I quickly made 1 or 2 new acquaintances, the
neighboring ship is Austrian, for example, an American helpfully explained what
was where in the
Roger, (Tito’s boss, the Dockmaster of the Panama Yacht Club)
came before 7 to pick up the four 125 foot lines and returned the $60 USD
deposit. He said this was the smallest
ship to transit, a 20 foot Canadian sailboat transited a few years ago but he
had special permission.
Interneted in the bar from 19 to
2007.04.19.
(208th day)
I got up tired, sleepy and in a bad mood at 6 in the morning.
There’s too much to do. Cleaned up for about an hour….There were 6 people in
the ship yesterday….Lots of empty bottles J and rotten bananas. Bananas last only 2 –3 days here
without refrigeration.
Then I checked the solar
panel, wiped it off well, plus after an acetone wash, applied another layer
of lacquer. It still needs another 1 or
2 layers more…
The solar panel was in the cabin during transit. Dangerous
business in the locks plus during that time the APC colleagues throw lines on
the ship’s deck, and if their aim is off then they could break the solar panel.
Breakfast: leftovers from yesterday’s lunch (fried wieners).
Went ashore with the free watertaxi even before 8, where I
started interneting, 1 or 2 hours were
spent on brief talks with friends and acquaintances. I.e. installing the new
MSN, uploading about 350 pictures through WLAN. So I interneted until about
The manager of Happy Tours Travel Bureau helped me (for the
sails: thanks to; István Dénes., Vitorlás Magazin, Pannon Sail, Farkas Litkey,
Bence Litkey, Doyle Sails) to store the sails, the 3 new sails couldn’t have
fit into the ship during transit. Yet I’m getting tomorrow via Fedex: Waterlog, Autopilot.
Thank you Sr. Alvaro Guzman Z.
Afternoon walked to the nearby gas pump (2 km) for fuel, 23
liters of benzin cost $18 USD. Unfortunately the fueling dock was out of
gas. During transit: 1st day
used 5 liters, 2nd day 20 liters (motored 9 hours).
Later started to fill up ther water supply (80 liters today),
because all tanks were empty before transit,
And of course packing in the cabin. Sometimes I feel it’ll
never end J
Dinner: fried wieners.
During the evening, because I couldn’t work in the dark, went
ashore to internet, write my log, upload pictures and videos to the meder.hu
server. It lasted until late night…Meanwhile charged up my hand camera’s
battery.
B . András’ videos from the Webcam: