TongaFiji

 

I dedicate this chapter to my Family.

(It would be nice if I could write better).

 

(Beginning to write November 15th based on my notes and memories).

 

2007.11.03 (day 405)

 

P.M.: Lunch in town for 1.8 pa’anga 2 cookies at a local bakery.

 

Cleaned the ship’s bottom, if I hadn’t, I’d be 1 knot slower.

(There’s hardly any alga-repellent left on the bottom anymore).

Re-installed the side stay, a young local kid helped me with this (12 y/o), then we talked a little, I gave him some Spanish biscuits. J

He liked Carina a lot. (Everybody speaks English here).

 

Untied three 25 liter water containers in the bow.

Completely disassembled and inspected the rudder. Alas the copper trunk wore some again.

Shimmed the gap as usual with thin plates (razor blades).

Fixing the life raft.

Packing.

Route planning.

 

Shopping:

5 loaves of bread – 7 pa’angas

12 eggs – 6 pa’angas

3 kg bananas – 2 pa’angas

1 pineapple – 2 pa’angas

3 papayas – 3 pa’angas

1 kg cucumbers - 2 pa’angas

 

Festival food for 2 pa’angas local cookies.

 

A local girl (Lilly) came to the ship and we talked. She was very happy and (weighed) 100 kgs – naturally she was eating all the time J

 

Gala dinner in town:

Ice cream – 2 pa’angas

Chicken/sausage/vegetables (local fare) – 6 pa’angas

 

1 beer at the local shinding place 4 pa’angas. It’s called Garden Bar and there were some stormy shindings. Dancing!

Got acquainted with Ben 33 year old rugby player, who has been living here in Tonga with his wife. He has a shop at the airport and makes a fairly good living of that. The shinding closed at midnight but invited him and his buddy to Carina for a shot of rum.

 

This too was a long day.

 

2007.11.04. (day 406)

 

Tonga:

About 100k people live here. Smaller than Samoa, Fiji, but greater than the Cook Islands.

The majority is poor, there are about 30 millionaires. Average income 1 (hotel waiter) – 3.5 (state employee) pa’angas per hour.

This is the only kingdom in the vicinity, though the majority is anti-king.

The reason is that the king died last year and his son became king, who is disliked by the people in general.

The other reason: that a few ambitious politicians want to abolish the kingdom so they can gain more power. The agitated crowd burned half the town down last year.

In town, there’s a strong conflict between locals and Chinese. The Chinese rule the market (every shop is owned by Chinese), and the locals don’t like it.

Interestingly here too they keep asking when am I going to come back.

 

It is customary on the street to take the cigarette out of one’s hand, even if they don’t know each other J

In bars they drink each other’s beer J If someone has no money, he doesn’t pay on the bus. People here are much more informal, this isn’t Europe. You can talk and ask any question J

 

I saw the king on Nov. 2nd, because that’s when the Parliament closed its session. Then the king motored to his residence in an open car with two other cars escorting, with kids standing and waving along the road. Earlier he got mixed up in a marijuana affair, perhaps that too contributed to his lack of popularity.

 

Got up at 7. Hai returned the charged batteries which I quickly installed.

Departure at 8 using the engine.

 

1011 mbar

35°C

 

Sunshine with clouds, there’s no wind.

 

9 waypoints guiding me through the passage, quite winding. Many reefs and it’s fairly narrow. Pendig on the tide there could be a 2 knot counter current here, so it’s important to leave at the right time. (Ebb tide at 9:00). Entered in the passage before 10, already left Atata (a local isle) by 10, at 10:30 I exited the passage.

Course: for the southern tip of Matuka, (dist. 298 nm 290°)

 

10:30 POS (21-01S; 175-17W)

 

Breakfast: bread with preserves and banana.

The margarin is from Galapagos and the preserves from Tahiti.

 

Lunch: chinese instant soup, banana, papaya.

 

Wind: easterly Bf.2 then Bf. 2-3

 

Spd: 3-4 knots 290°

I’d like to sail south of Vatoa.

 

Tied the anchor down with yet another rope, I hope it’ll stay in place this way.

 

Alas the compass light is absolutely bad, I must buy another lamp (and must alter the principle a little as well).

 

Dinner: bread, canned beef, cucumber.

 

Unfortunately the mp3 player doesn’t work. The error message is written in Chinese because that language was installed. In other words I don’t know what’s wrong with it.

Steering a few hours in the evening, then autopilot.

The night is calm and quiet, the easterly wind weakened to Bf.2.

 

2007.11.05 (day 407)

 

1017 mb morning, 1010  mb afternoon.

27° morning, p.m. already 33°

 

Got up at 5, sunrise at 5:30

Wind: Bf.2 east

Spd.: 2-3 knots, toward 280°

 

Breakfast: canned beef (yesterday‘s leftover), bread, cucumber, banana

Raining for 1 hour, then sunshine again.

The wind died down at 9, started engine.

10:30 stopped engine. Battery is on max again.

 

Wind blowing slowly and weakly, sailing at 2 – 2.5 knots 280°, mainly butterflying.

 

10:30 POS (20-38S; 176-51W) 206 nm to go.

Made 92 nm during 24 hours.

 

A.M. resting and reading.

 

Lunch: Chinese instant noodles.

 

P.M.: wind strengthening around 2. Bf.2-3, so my speed is 3-4 knots 300°

Dinner: beef with scrambled eggs, cucumber, bread, banana.

 

19:00 radio 14.287 MHz (USB) – 06 UTC

Alas the noise is 6, but I can hear Péter.

Péter (VK2VZ, Sydney) 5-9

He also can hear me well (5-6 report received).

Feri (HA3MQ) isn’t there today.

POS (20-28S; 177-18W) 179 nm to my first target.

Expected wind 17 kts East.

 

This conversation of a few minutes means the OUTSIDE WORLD and REALITY to me, it means a lot. Thank you.

 

The night passed calmly. When the autopilot and battery are working they steer the ship at night. Then I check direction and mainly the wind every 2 hours.

 

2007.11.06 (day 408)

 

The sun is shining.

 

1017 mb

30, then 32°

 

In the morning cleaned the toolbox, alas my tools keep rusting all the time.

Breakfast: scrambled eggs with red chile, cucumber, onions, bread.

 

10:30 POS (20-19S; 178-16W) 126 nm to my first target.

Made 80 nm during 24 h.

Wind: Bf.2-3 E

Spd.: 2-3 kts 280°

 

A.M.: Sorting maps. Pulled out #83590.

(1:350000, south-eastern part of Fiji, dated 1987)

 

Course change at noon to 310°, spd. 3-3.5 kts. (I’m too far south).

 

Lunch: banana, papaya

 

After 14:00 the wind Bf.1 E

14:30 starting engine, prior to it spark plug change of course (one is black again). Sparkplug code: 5110 B7HS, this is what I’ve been using since the start, I’ll check to see if the factory really recommends it. (YAMAHA 8B, serial number: 028973). 15:30 stopped engine, battery charged up. Waiting for the wind.

 

It’s coming slowly, 2-3 knots from 310°.

 

Dinner: Chinese instant soup.

 

18:00 route correction, instead of the southern point of Matuka Island, the southern point of Kandavu is the new target. This way the distance is 199 nm (instead of 102 nm). Course 285.

 

19:00 radio (6 UTC)

14.287 MHz (USB)

Noise level 5.

Péter 5-7, though at times the noise completely blanked him out, but I understood everything.

POS (20-04S; 178-41W)

80 nm during the past 24 h.

Weather forecast: light winds can be expected.

 

My stomach is slightly upset, it started in Tonga. Could be from the local foods or water.

Bottled water from now on and and simple meals.

 

20:40 saw a motor ship (about 3000t, 40m). Steaming straight in my direction and didn’t see my navigation lights in the darkness. I kept seeing his red and green lights continuously, heading directly toward me!!

My speed was 3 knots, hers must have been around 15-20. Lit up my sail but no reaction. Called her on VHF when she was about 1 mile away, but no answer, I called again!

“This is CARINA sailing boat. CARINA sailing boat. Do you read me? Do you see my position?”

She answered.Identified herself.

Told her my course and speed: “My direction is west making 4 knots…”

Then she slowed down and finally noticed me and changed course. I thanked him profusely and wished them good night. He said good bye too and “see you again”. I don’t insist on that. J

 

1.       I should have a mast light.

2.       Lighting should be with LEDs.

3.       More battery

4.       Should put the radar reflector up higher

Aron, wake up!

OK, one of these days ..J

 

I heard that ship’s traffic was heavier here. From now on: less sleeping at night and more checking (at least every 20-30 minutes).

 

2007.11.07 (day 409)

 

Slept little at night, watched the ocean. At 4 made home-made cottage cheese from my milk. Good  entertainment, doesn’t make much sense but it’s fun.

 

Wind: Bf.2-3 E

Spd.: 3-4 knots 270°

 

Haven’t seen any ships since that memorable incident, but there is continuous watch in the ship: 24 hours.

 

Breakfast: coffee, bread with preserves (preserves are now gone), honey on bread, banana.

 

9:00

Wind: Bf.2

Spd.: 3 knots 280°

 

I’m tired and in a bad mood because of lack of sleep, that you can get used to theoretically, since I’ve been doing it for more than a year. But in reality, if I want to be honest, you can never get used to it. Of course, the feeling that comes at this time is pleasant sometimes. J

 

10:30 POS (20-04S; 179-32W) 150 nm to target.

73 nm made during the past 24 h.

 

Mainly butterflying when I am steering.

32°

1010 mb

 

Lunch: the last banana and a pineapple (which is the first and also the last one)

Unfortunately my bugs like fresh fruit, greens, bread, their storing is difficult, kept mainly in a bag hanging from the afterstay. They are continuously soaking in the rain. The assignment: I must be smarter that the cockroach! This is the key and the solution.

 

Dinner: Cream of lentils, canned beef, onion, cucumber.

 

Wind: Bf.2

Spd.: 3 kts, 300°

 

19:00 (6 UTC) radio

14.287 MHz (USB)

Noise level 5

Some Hungarians speak but can not understand because of the noise.

Péter 5-9

Barely heard Jóska.

Also heard Árpi weakly.

Weather info: 16-19 kts easterly until Nov.11.

 

POS (19-47S; 179-58W) 122 nm to target.

Made 74 nm during the past 24 h.

The sun set after 19:00.

 

At 19:37 local time I transited 180°. 180W => 180E.
A holiday moment. Naturally holiday rum for the Ocean, Carina and me.

 

Transited 0° (0E=>0W) more than a year ago off the Algerian coast. Under very difficult circumstances.

 

“1522.July 9 was the day that once got lost in History. The scriber and secretary of the Magellan expedition, Pigafeta, who spent three years in the ship Victoria, that circumnavigated the Earth, once told all kinds of stories in a wine induced stupor about what happened during the voyage, and among others he remembered: “Today is Thursday”. “NO, today is Wednesday” said his listeners (How could it be Wednesday when today is Thursday!” Pigafeta, in a very surprised state, stole out to the ship, looked over all the ships logs, but couldn’t find Wednesday anywhere. So he simply listed it among the wants.” (József Varsányi: Around the World with Zsuzsanna)

 

Using candles for lighting for days now, found a good prop up system (towel and book combination). Put the candle on the empty chile bottle, perhaps a little aesthetic, but only moderately. It worked 500 years ago, it’s completely OK now as well. Sailors used it in the old days, not so many in 2007 anymore.

 

The night passed quietly, but I kept getting up to check the ship and traffic continuously.

 

2007.11.08 (day 410)

 

1016 mb (pm. 1012)

29° (p.m. 35°)

 

Breakfast: dinner leftovers, last papaya plus multivitamin as usual.

 

Wind Bf.2-3 E

Spd.: 3 knots 280°

 

Finished reading Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. (Kincses Sziget, in Hungarian read it as a kid, but never before in English.) Robert Louis Stevenson lived in Samoa for a few years and also died there. Will Viti Levu be my Tresure Island?

P.M. fuel transfer #2. Tank => main tank 18 l, 1 tank 22 l (Total 40 liters)

Must use the engine in the last section after the entrance, for that I need a tankful (about 20 l). Inspecting the ship, I do it every day, not my favorite pastime, but necessary.. For example: today a shackle holding the port side stay got unscrewed, sometimes the wire securing the turnbuckle breaks, that must be changed quickly. There’s plenty of work.

 

10:30 POS (19-48S; 179-14E) 80 nm to target.

Made 70 nm during past 24 h, in good direction of course.

 

Steering A.M. as well as P.M., mostly butterfly.

 

Strong sunshine! It’s very hot!

 

Lunch: tomato soup.

 

Record: killed 4 cockroaches by 1 swat J

 

Dinner: pork patties, bread, onions, cucumber

 

Unfortunately I didn’t catch fish today, is it possible my method is wrong?

 

19:00 (6 UTC) radio

14.287 MHz (USB)

Péter, (VK2VZ sydney 5-7

Heard Feri from Siklós.

Weather info: 13/17 kts east until Nov 10.

POS (19-36S; 178-49E)

 

The boom alignment bolt broke a few weeks ago, and now the boom fell out of its rail. Temporarily secured with rope.

Dolphins escort Carina at sunset, there may be a hundred of them.

At night: continuous watch. Passed calmly. At 2 the wind picked up to Bf.4 and rained too, but Bf.2 again after an hour.

 

2007.11.09 (day 411)

 

Dawn: spotted Kandava at sunrise (it’s southern part) 22 nm distant. From there my course is northerly.

 

1014 mbar

31° (P.M. 33°)

Wind: Bf.3 E

Spd.: 3 kts 290°

10:30 POS (19-19S; 178-03E)

72 nm during past 24h

 

Breakfast: yesterday’s leftovers and canned corn.

 

Lunch: Indonesian instant soup (chicken), canned fruit

 

14:00 sailing by the island

P.M.: Steering continuously, trying to speed up the ship. It would be good to arrive tomorrow evening. Alas the winds have weakened greatly.

 

17:00 engine started. (After spark plug change)

Spd.: 4.5 knots

Raining. Raining. Raining.

Dinner: milk, oatmeal with little sugar, have no patience to make scrambled eggs.

 

19:00 radio

14.287 MHz (USB)

POS (18-52S; 177-45E)

Noise level 6.

VK2VZ Péter, 5-9

Expected wind: 13-15 kts from 110-95°

I can hear other Hungarians talking, but unfotunately very weakly and can not lunderstand what they’re saying. Expect to arrive tomorrow evening or morning the day after tomorrow, radioing uncertain tomorrow.

 

Got up half-hourly during the night to check the course and the ship. Passing by Vatulele Island fairly close that was the main reason.  Passed the island at 2 dawn. After 3 a.m. I can’t go to sleep of course.

Then I light a candle and read.

 

2007.11.10 (day 412)

 

At 5 dawn made some fine scrambled eggs. Ate it with cucumber and bread. Afterwards I drank a cocoa.

 

At 7, after sunrise I can see the island.

7:30 started engine (after sparkplug change). 22 nm to the entrance but there’s no wind.

Wind: Bf.1 (Sea state 1, have seen this before. The waves are small).

 

1012 mbars

32°

 

It would be nice to arrive in daylight.

9:30 stopped engine. 

12 nm to the entrance, but the wind is Bf.0-1

For some reason the engine was weak around the end. Perhaps because of the sparkplug.

Fuel transfer: there is 22 liters, I need this from the entrance (the port is 22 nm from there)

 

So sailing at 1-2 kts and waiting for the wind.

Steering and maximizing the speed.

 

10:30 POS (18-06S; 177-15E) 11 nm to the entrance.

80 nm made good past 24 h

 

Lunch: Indonesian instant soup (rather spicy)

 

The entrance isn’t simple, there could be strong current, not too narrow though. Saw a sailboat, called on VHF. Ch.16 but alas didn’t answer.

 

According to my calculations it would be best to enter after 6 P.M. the current would be in good direction then.

The engine is not OK.

 

 

The story of Carina’s rescue – the story of Carina’s towing

(Navula Passage and vicinity)

 

Nov.10.

12:30 the propeller isn’t turning!

 

I suppose the propeller shaft broke. Because there are many trees/vegetation/everything floating near the islands, they could easily have blocked the propeller and therefore broke the shaft. This has happened when tying up at Cape Verde (Mindenlo).

 

I cannot check it in these large waves. Repair out of the question.

 

 --- I can not transit the entrance (Navula Passage) without the engine. Shoals on both sides, strong current back and forth and variable, weak winds. The entrance direction is 77°, typically there are easterly headwinds.

 --- There are no safe anchorages nearby or farther, continuous shoals before the entrance all along the island. I’d anchor and fix the problem if I could. I have no map of this area, only the MaxSea (digital map on the laptop, the laptop’s battery could last 1 hour), carefully observed the surroundings and made sketches. Found a small harbor nearby, though with a smaller entrance (POS: 18-03.6S; 177-15.9E), but perhaps someone will answer my calls on the VHF radio.

 

VHF radio calls:

13:00 I. General call: Ship’s name, Pos., Problem

13:30 II. General call: Ship’s name, Pos., Problem

POS (17-59S; 177-11E)

14:30 Calling the Harbor: Ship’s name, Pos., Problem

Nobody answered.

 

Changed tactics: will try to sail in, could succeed should the favorable wind last:

1.       Plotted (wind direction, course to entrance, Carina is able to sail 60° against the wind, she has a large slip), could succeed theoretically, if there’s no current and the wind lasts.

2.       2. The critical section is 0.8 nm, the entrance width is 0.3 nm.

 

The wind has died out completely and it’s raining, raining, raining. Slowly drifitng toward the shoals, 0.82 nm distant. I can not stop (the ship), there’s no wind, only current. Rowing doesn’t help.

 

15:30 Calling the Coast Guard: Ship’s name, Pos., Problem. Nearing the shoals. Asked for assistance. No answer. Or rather, I heard someone once, who didn’t identify himself, just spoke.

 

18:30 Luckily a very weak wind came, so at 0.5 kt and very slowly, but getting away from the shoals. Keeps raining. Visibility poor.

 

OK. This isn’t a good tactic.

 

19:00 radio 14.287 MHz (USB)

VK2VZ Péter, Sydney, 5-9 Informed Péter of my situation. Asked him to inform my Dad of this.

Because there isn’t any ship’s traffic here, I’m unable to ask anyone to tow me in..

Ship’s name, Pos., Problem. It seems they’re not watching the VHF radio here.

Perhaps Dad can lfind somebody from Budapest, who can tow me in thru the entrance, where there’s a safe anchorage and I can repair the engine. Péter called Feri via MSN, who called Dad (it’s 7 a.m. in Budapest). Keeping the connection with Péter continuously until 23:00, info exchange every 30 minutes.

22:00 POS (17-50S; 177-10E)

Trying to keep my position and not to get near the entrance.

Péter informed me of the promises Dad was able to get from the Navy/Police/Rescue Center.

 

They promised to send someone out in the evening, so I was up all night, kept my position and watched for the ship to come. Got ready to shoot a rocket and my position lights were on of course.

No one came until 5 (POS: (18-00S; 177-10E), so I slept a little between 5 and 7.

 

(Will use Fiji time from now on instead of Tonga, minus 1 hour).

 

Nov.11.

VHF radio:

7:45 Radio operator calls.

Gave POS, described the situation.

8:05 the radio operator called again.

Gave POS again.

(17-56S; 177-07E)

 

8:00 14.287 MHz (USB)

VK2VZ, Péter, Sydney, 5-9

Gave my POS. again. Péter got the message from Dad, that some one will come out during the a.m. and tow me in. He’s going shopping now, but will be on the Internet with fresh news.

 

8:55 A search ship’s captain calls. Again I gave my exact POS, rather that I’m 4 nm 220° from the entrance. Shot up a rocket and lit a hand torch. (Perhaps he can see me this way…)

 

9:00 14.287MHz (USB)

VK2VZ Péter, Sydney, 5-9

Gave my POS. again. Unfortunately there’s no ship for the time being, trying to sail in, this is the message. It didn’t make me any happier.

 

9:15 The radioman from the Rescue Center called, tells me there’s no ship. He’s looking bit couldn’t find any so far. I should try to sail in and stop someone for a tow. Answer: the ship traffic is very rare here. I’ll try to sail in but a small motor launch should be in readiness in case of emergency (a small motorboat is sufficient for a 1 ton 19 foot ship), It’s chancy without an engine in variable, weak winds. He didn’t promise anything. Course: toward the entrance!  Moving 1-1.5 knots in weak wind.

 

9:45 the Rescue Center’s radio called again, no significant new information.

 

10:30 I spotted a small motor boat a few hundred meters from me. No rescue boat, only 3 men heading out to fish. I routinely light a torch. They notice me. Approached me. Called them on the VHF radio. They answered. They start speaking in French. At this level its all the same, I tell them my problem in French (spiked with grammatical errors) and asked for assistance. OK. They tow me to a secure anchorage, the entrance is 2 nm, they tow me 4 nm, I drop the anchor after the entrance. Gave them my access and said good buy to them. MERCI!

 

I was there about 20 minutes and a motor boat approached. Offered to tow me to the Hotel Sea Shell’s buoy 2nm away because it’s safer. OK.

13:00 already tied to the buoy.

Ben and Pat come over to my ship and they like Carina very much. They work in the hotel. Their job is to take tourists out surfing.

I had almost nothing to eat for a day. Only crackers and coffee with rum. It was enough but not too tasty. Prepared a large dinner.

Scrambled eggs.

Canned corn.

Soup

Hinano (Tahitian beer)

 

After 14:00 checking the engine. The shaft didn’t break. Unfortunately the gear-shifting arm isn’t OK, which is under the engine beyond the transmission. Repairs possible ashore only.

 

Swam ashore to the hotel (100m swim, 100m walk – cut my foot on a coral).

I though it was Monday, but it was Sunday J Yet, I’m writing yacht log every day so that I can picture what day it is. Api, the local diver enlightened me of this. A reporter from Fiji Times called me about the rescue we talked over the telephone, she liked my web page a lot J Especially the opening picture.

 

Then I went for a walk on the beach. There were many people fishing, generally two together with a large net walking in the water. Then there are those fishing with a throw-net.

 

Met with some Fiji Indians on the beach, they offered beer. We talked, then they gave me a few fishes for dinner. 1 kg fish here costs 6 FJD, they offered me this work. I should learn better how to fish.

 

19:00 14.287 MHz (USB) radio.

Péter VK2VZ, 5-9

Outlined the engine problem. Outlined the towing problem. I’m looking for a cheap solution, this is time demanding. If one has money, it can be taken care of quickly. I have more time than money. Evening: reading Hemingway by candlelight (The Nick Adams Stories)

 

Lessons drawn from the incident:

 ---

 

The engine problem is not yet a PANNE PANNE (urgency signal/tr) call, but it could become a greater problem.

Later could call PANNE PANNE or even MAYDAY (i.e.: drifting onto a shoal the hull gets broken and I begin to sink, in this case my life is in danger: MAYDAY call)

 

First of all I’m thankful to everybody for everything.

In more detail:

1.       Péter, VK2VZ, Sydney was our channel of communications, without him I couldn’t have informed Dad of the situation.

Nov. 10. 19:00-23:00 and Nov.11 08:00 – 10:00 we radioed incredibly much and it helped a lot. Thank you.

2          I thank my Dad unbelievably much. He organized the Saturday night rescue at Fiji from Budapest. He spoke with many organizations and people. The whole island knew about me waiting for a ship to tow me in. The reporter lady called in connection with that. Dad was my connection with the Fiji organs, mainly with the Rescue Center. (See: Fiji Times). He gave them my position, because they did not hear it over the VHF radio. Later it became clear, that locally they use channel 86 instead of channel 16. That’s why I didn’t get an answer.

3          Handling engine problem caused situations is not the function of the Rescue Center. It isn’t a PANNE PANNE or MAYDAY call/situation. Their duty in such cases is keeping up steady communications so that they can take steps in case of danger. Therefore they kept promising and waiting.

 

Because there wasn’t much traffic through this entrance, I had a hard time finding another ship. A few months ago many yachts sailed through this vicinity, but now the season is over. No one is sailing here anymore.

 

It would’ve been better to check the engine out earlier and stop the first sailboat with a danger signal, or trying the passage earlier in the afternoon with stronger wind. Alas, one doesn’t know these things in advance.

 

My main guiding principle was not to risk the ship. Generally this is most important!

 

The story of Carina’s tow.

 

2007.11.12 (day 414)

 

BULA FIJI!

 

This ended a long voyage, started from Koper 2006.Sep.24 and now I’m here in Fiji. After a few minutes of happiness I began to think about organizing a tow again. (to Lautoka~22nm/tr)   It’d be nice to rest one of these days. Fished a little again without success.

 

I saw a sailboat coming through the entrance, called on VHF (ch.16), didn’t answer. She could be going to Vuda Marina. I certainly wouldn’t have the right to signal danger now J For a large, 10-20 ton sailboat towing 1 ton Carina would be nothing, they could tow her easily.

 

I thought if the Coast Guard knew I’ve not checked in yet it might make them nervous. I should report myself, then they’d certainly tow me to the port J

 

Appeared in the Fiji Times. Good ticket to get into a country, I like impressive arrivals! J

The Immigration Office hasn’t seen me yet though.

 

Breakfast: coffee

A.M. packing things away in the ship.

It’d be risky to leave with sails alone. There are continuously changing winds and strong currents here and of course reefs everywhere (shoals).

 

Lunch: cream of beansoup, canned beef, onions, cucumber.

 

Spent the early afternoon at the hotel. Played ping-pong with an Australian, who beat me of course. Talked with tourists, then played soccer as well. Considering that I’m not a guest and didn’t pay a penny for anything, they’re very kind. They asked no money for the tow or the buoy space.

 

MOST FREQUENT QUESTIONS:

1.       How long on the voyage?

2.       When and from where did you start?

3.       When are you going to get home?

4.       Next target?

5.       How many countries have you been to?

6.       Where did you tie up so far?

7.       When did you shave last?

8.       How big was the greatest storm?

 

Inventory:

1.       Quite a few vitamins remaining for the next sections. Perhaps they’ll last until Koper.

2.       Because I shall call in Australia, and they confiscate all food there, I must leave with a smaller food supply for a few months from here. I have a lot of food but I have 6 months to lessen it.

 

Alas sprouting wasn’t succesful so far, now trying again with radish seeds. Washed my trousers to have at least one clean one, but it didn’t get any cleaner. (Used the last 25 liter tank with Panamanian water for the heck of it for the wash.

 

18:00 14.287 MHz (USB)

Péter VK2VZ, Sydney 5-9

WA6HDD, Árpi, 2-5 (CQR, transceiver is in Australia, 50W)

Dad records the conversation through Árpi. Got a 5-4 report.

Couldn’t hear HA3MQ, Feri today.

 

Plan:

To visit both marinas by bus tomorrow, talk to them and see what they’re like. Day after tomorrow or later they’ll tow me for 100-175 USD, depending whether the target is Nadi or Lautoka. ( I’ll try to find the cheapest solution). Internet in the hotel is 5 USD per hour – expensive !! – surely must be cheaper in town.

 

Dinner: lunch leftovers.

 

2007.11.13 (day 415)

 

Increasingly more cockroaches. There are ones you can’t kill, there are mutants, also some giant ones.

 

Exchanged 25 FJD in the morning (max. obtainable from the reception for a 4% handling fee), then caught the 6:15 bus to Nadi (ticket 1.9 FJD). Looked around the town some.

 

Visited the Swami Temple (at the end of Nadi’s main street), ticket 3.5FJD. 30k people live in Nadi and there are many tourists (the airport is here). There’s a beautiful bridge and river at the other end of the main street. I was stopped many times in the main street to do business. I told them I had no money I wasn’t going to buy anything. They invited me for a morning coffee regardless.

 

Bused to Nadi Marina (ticket 60 cents), in Denarau. Spoke with the office manager of the marina office, then walked around the site. It’s small and is not a cyclone shelter. He suggested Vuda Marina (The Marina at Vuda Point).

 

Bused back to Nadi busdepot.

 

Lunch: cookies from a local bakery ($1.5F), with Indian sweets (60 cents).

 

Took the bus (ticket 1.5FJD) to Vuda Marina (www.vudamarinafiji.com), where the office told me they have no more spaces. Then at the plant Morua told me OK, there is space, I can come. The manager sill decide tomorrow, I’ll have to telephone the Marina (6 months storage, 2 lifts about 1500 FJD which is about $1,000US)

 

Bused back to Nadi after hitchhiking to the main road.

 

Interneted for 1 hour for 3 FJD (the cheapest 1FJD/hour).

 

Late afternoon spoke with a Fiji Indian farmer at the bus depot, they can not be the majority owner here. They lease either from the state or privately. In most cases for free or for symbolic amount.

1 hundredweight sugarcane 50-100 dollars, of course there are all kinds of animals on the farm, chickens, cows, horses.

 

The bus depot is full of Indians, it’s as if I were in India. They look and smile. Of course it’s raining, this is already the rainy season here. The Indians are constantly trying to do business, to sell something. I never buy anything, they no longer try me because of my worn and torn clothes J The tourists are at the tourist spots, not in the towns. Mostly in hotels, beaches. Islands, but not in local towns and villages.

 

Got back to the Shell Hotel at 5 p.m. Talked a little with Árpi, Ben, Pali. With the barman. Played a lot of ping-pong. Then swam back to Carina in near darkness. It’s hard to find the ship in darkness. Alas, I was late for the radio schedule.

 

2007.11.14 (day 416)

 

Ate the leftover beans for breakfast, at least now it’s gone.

Swam ashore but was picked up by the motor launch halfway.

Had a fine hot tea with the divers in the morning, then called the Marina. Gretel’s anwer: - OK

We are waiting for Carina with love. Whew! This is done!

 

Then walked over to the ship’s owner, the whole family was there except Mike, so I had to wait. They invited me for tea and pancakes. Got to meet the whole family: John, (grandfather), Dix, Max, Geru, Marry…then Mike arrived and we went out to the yard and negotiated the details.

 

The significant part of the dialog in English was like this while they spoke in Fiji language:

-          200 FJD

-          Just the fuel cost that much

-          240 FJD

-          400 FJD. Ship’s rental fee, captain’s fee for 1 day…

-          That’s too much. I spoke with several people, nobody wants that much. (This wasn’t true). I could ask someone from the Marina to tow me cheaper. (Told them I wasn’t rich, small ship and many problems).

-          Make an offer.

-          Max. 300 FJD, I can’t pay more. (350 Fiji dolloalrs would’ve been realistic).

-          OK. We want to help you – said captain Mike, who kept quiet all this time.

 

Towing taken care of. Whew! That’s done too!

 

I was reading the Lonely Planet that I borrowed from the diverbase.

 

Ping-pong matches:

John (Swedish, just graduated economist)

Charles (Australian, holds Phd in chemistry)

Naturally I was the worst, but at least had some fun.

 

In this hotel everybody stays 1-2 days only, then they visit 1 or 2 smaller islands. So I’m the “oldest” guest, of course this isn’t very good business for the hotel J

 

18:00 14.290 MHz (USB)

VK2VZ Péter, 5-9

HA3MQ, Feri, 5-9

 

Dinner: noodle soup with a lot of noodles. Afterwards my stomach got upset from something.

 

2007.11.15 (day 417)

 

Theoretically this is my birthday, but it isn’t important for me anymore.

If it’s a good day, then good day, if not, then not a good day.

 

The day is good when I can sleep, eat (and there’s a good wind) J

Celebrated my previous birthday in the Strait of Gibraltar, and not very well. Couldn’t sleep all night and had many problems. (See earlier log).

 

Several people told me that I’m Fijian because I’ll be here 6 months.

I answered that my skin is white, my eyes are blue, my hair is blond, I’m very European. “That doesn’t count!” Received a name too: Ároni J

 

The tow, et al went well. They ran out of fuel 3 nm before the marina, so I dropped an anchor while they went to get gas. Then Meil came over to Carina, gave him biscuits and naturally a little whisky too, alas he couldn’t hold his liquor, he was slightly drunk by the time we arrived at the marina. J

After 11 we arrived at the Vuda Marina (www.vudamarinafiji.com). Moored at place no.20, thanked captain Michael Vukuwale, Deve, Seru and Meil for the tow. They invited me for Christmas on their island several times. I said OK. I don’t have any other programs then…

 

Millie, the manager received me with kindness. She’s helpig with everything, regarding the fast paperwork and ship’s space. Because I couldn’t tie up at the Customs Pier, 5 officials came out and quickly filled out the documents at the table. Previously one came into the ship and noticed the cockroaches. He was quite upset about this situation. I must exterminate the cockroaches before I can lift Carina ashore. Had to pay 304 FJD to the officials:

Health, Customs, Agriculture, Port Authority, Immigration. Of that 200 FJD was their calling fee.  

 

Packed things away in the ship.

Dinner: biscuits.

 

19:00 14.287 MHz (USB)

VK2VZ Péter, 5-5, informed him about the marina

HA5CAR Karesz, 5-1

HA3MQ, Feri, 5-5 he relayed the messages

The time of the next radio schedule is uncertain because I’m going to lower the mast and antenna.

 

Evening: wrote and wrote the yachtlog. My main aim is for everybody to better understand the theme and get to like sailing a little.

Rained all evening.

 

The WLAN internet in the harbor is free but slow. After midnight, when everybody goes to sleep it speeds up some. Uploading pictures and videos is a very slow process.

 

I’m netting from 9 p.m. til 7 a.m., trying to upload pictures/videos to my webpage. The net is slow, I sit on the ground in the laundry section because I heard it’s the fastest there.

 

Nov. 16

 

Slept unitl 10 in the morning, then went into Lautoka hitchiking and by bus.

Lautoka is the sugarcane capital here, everything is about sugarcane. Not a very beautiful town, very small: market, bus depot and main street.

 

Bought a new cell phone (Motorola, Motomanual) for 49 FJD, I can use up the 49 dollars with the card. This new company  was founded Inc (1mp – 1 cent), Fiji vodaphone is more expensive.

 

Bought 2 small lamps for the compass (60 cents).

Cockroach killer (6.5 FJD) and a strong cleaning fluid (2.4 FJD), will hold a ship cleaning over the weekend. Bought mosqito repellent crème 2.2 FJD, there’s dango-fever here sometimes and many, many mosqitoes.

 

Breakfast, lunch in an Indian eatery 3.4 FJD (curried chicken with pancakes and curry sauce). The town is full of Indian eateries.

 

There are 3 radio stations here:

1.       Fiji language

2.       Hindu language

3.   English language

 

P.M.

Went to the marina’s sailing shop. May put up a mast light.

The 15W 3 colored underway light is 131 FJD

The 10W white mastlight is 21 FJD – this is what I’m going to buy

Will change the sternlight too: the 10W sternlight costs 23.3 FJD

 

Met Hans, a German captain, around 60 who left sailing from home 31 years ago with his wife. This 40 foot, old steel hulled ship is their third.

 

Then spoke with Brian, who is one of the managers of BaoBab (www.baobabmarine.com) land, will inspect my ship’s bottom on Monday. I suspect osmosis in a few places under the waterline.

 

Started drinking with the security guard and the gardener, later joined with us Morua, the marina’s all around man and assistant manager. He’s been working here for 15 years, from the beginning. Before this he worked at the Suva Royal Yacht Club. So he must know about ships.

 

Masa invited me to his house, so we left after 7 p.m by bus and walking. He lives with his family in a small village on the beach  His parents and brother died in a rockslide on their island when he was 8 months old. So he has been living with his aunt for nearly 30 years, his uncle died a few years ago.  He has many cousins and they have 6 or 8 houses in the small village.

 

We had dinner then a coffee ceremony.

Meanwhile they played a local game with french cards, it was very simple. The winner got food packets. I told them about Hungary because everybody was interested.

 

After an hour only the young ones remained. Bon, Franco, Masa, Dave…then we started to mix coffee and beer, I fell asleep while watching the netball (it’s like basketball but different, there is nothing like it in Hungary).

 

Had breakfast with Masa and walked along the beach to the next little village to his buddy.

Then, late morning I swam back to the marina.

 

Cleaned and killed cockroaches all day. Got some boric acid from a neighboring sailboat (Australian couple). I’m sure I won’t have any cockroaches after a few weeks!

 

Spoke with a few sailors about many subjects.Basically it’s difficult to get Indonesian sailing permit, I don’t know the reason why. So, many will start in the Darwin Sailing race, for every sailor gets it because of the route. Of course actually only a small portion ot the initial starters take part in this race, the majority goes to the office www.sailindonessia.net for the permit only. (From Gene, captain of Emelia)

 

Lunch and dinner: biscuits and coffee. Swithed to biscuits quite a lot. I have many and they’ll expire shortly.

 

The usual evening program: free net in the laundry.

 

Translation by Laszlo AA7UY