The life in Fiji

10th part, 2008.03.23-04.14

 

(Translated by Laszlo AA7UY)

 

 

2008.03.23. (day 535)

 

Neted in the morning twice although briefly. My festive lunch consisted of couscous with vegetables, smoked kippers (canned in Hungary). After lunch I swam in the pool for half an hour, where they happened to demonstrate zulu at the same time. Zulu is a local skirt, practically a large kerchief they wrap around their waists. The men’s zulus are tied at the side or front. Women have seven basic methods. The demonstrating lady produced some astonishing magical configurations from a simple wrap.

 

Afternoon varnished the rudder and the cracked solar panel. (I check it monthly and re-varnish every three months) Barry came over later and together we made adjustments to the mast. I’m trying to straighten the mast by tightening the little forestay. I think it’s improved.

 

Late afternoon walked in sandals to my fishtrap that’s pretty far past the reef then did some diving as well. There was a small fish in the trap, I let it loose. Will set up the trap in the marina, easier to check and there should be more fish.

 

Went over to Hans in the evening for (vegetarian) dinner. The conversation went along several strands, here I must mention Noam Chomsky (shall write more later).

 

http://www.chomsky.info

 

http://www.understandingpower.com/

 

Hans gave me a magnifier for Easter (yacht’s name Muluhia), and, what’s most important, he cultured a very good Italian yogurt, it only needs water and powdered milk and of course the culture itself. I’ll have fresh yogurt in the ship from now on. 500 gr powdered milk costs 5.5 FD that produces kefir for a minimum of two weeks.

 

Evening movie: Galapagos. (BBC)

 

Bird that frequently sits on the bow: Bubi (Bobo).

 

Spoke with the family at night (Skype).

 

2008.03.24 (day 536)

 

Have been continuously charging (and using) the batteries for two days now, they’re simple car batteries, therefore require constant attention.

 

Morning chores:

-     re-install the boom

-          varnished the rudder, solar cell, grappling hook and some other minor chores

-          connected VHF antenna, soldering at the base of the mast and insulating with vulcanizing tape.

-          Tried the radio with Allen (Yacht: Kiwi Dream), unfortunately it’s a little noisy….

 

David, a laborer who works on other people’s boats, came over for tea in my ship (nowadays comes over for tea nearly every day), said “Big Adventure”. Afterwards I swam in the pool.

 

Afternoon chores:

-          re-install the wind generator

-          adjust the mast

 

CARINA is beginning to look like a ship again.

 

Evening music: Caruso

 

Evening book: Noam Chomsky: Hegemony or Survival (America’s Quest for Global Dominance)

 

False freedom?

Noam Chomsky, revolutionary thinker, says that in spite of the delusion of feeling free, large companies rule over the western societies. There wasn’t much said about the environment in his last book (Chronicles of Dissent). He proposes however, that if things continue like they’re now, only cockroaches will be running around in the not too distant future.

He’s aware of existing problems but concentrates on the human tragedy – in South America, Africa, Asia and the United States. According to American academic publications he is the third most quoted author of all time.

The history of language sciences can be divided into two sections: before Chomsky and after Chomsky. (BC and AC). This reveals nothing of his political views, only that he’s capable of reasoning. This is important, because Chomsky’s views are opposing to the conventional political “reality”. Chomsky thinks freedom in the “free” world is rather limited, though we do have some freedom rights. We can move around, do things, consume, but we can not think freely, we are forced to compromise through our actions, and our freedom is bridled by the chains of thinking. The real power of a modern society is in the hands of a group of – essentially alike – elder leaders of large corporations, and the political leaders of identical interests. The western democracies differ from dictatorships only, in that in our societies the population is far freer and the state can not use force against the citizenry. The leaders here are just as powerful as in a dictatorship, but they enforce their power by other, more refined methods. This means one thing: propaganda. It isn’t as raw as in Stalinist Russia or Nazi Germany – where the oppression was openly obvious and the control of consciousness ineffective. In our society the propaganda does not appear to be like that, but as “truth”, “reality” or “common sense”. Though they speak of international defense against terrorism, in reality there is no internationalism, terrorism, or defense. Chomsky frequently speaks of the attack against Panama, whose aim was the arrest of president Noriega – and it is known that the U.S. government supported and defended Noriega until 1986, yet he was accused of things committed after 1984 in the Miami trial…

They didn’t turn against him because of drug trafficking, but because he stood up against the interests of the large American corporations. Here they spoke of democracy, yet they stopped the anti-China restrictions a few weeks after the Tienanmen square massacre. “The capture of Noriega proves that America will not surrender to anyone, no matter how powerful or corrupt” – said Robert Dole in the Senate, and the American press found nothing sarcastic about it. They bombed Lybia, because Khadaffy was “the king of international terrorists”. Chomsky also thought he was a terrorist but of small stature: according to Amnesty International he had 14 people killed in the eighties, mostly Lybians. In those days the U.S. controlled army in El Salvador was responsible for the sadistic massacre of 50,000 persons. During the Vietnam War the “doves” were against the war, because – so to speak – although the U.S. is defending South Vietnam, it’s too costly and the war can not be won. As if the doves didn’t notice that the U.S. occupied South Vietnam and dropped three times as many bombs on it than on North Vietnam. Chomsky also strongly argues against the environmental protection movement, because, so to speak, they often represent the interests of the companies. Friends of the Earth or Greenpeace seem to be standing against the symptoms, rather than against the roots. Nowhere do the green movements say that the large corporations’ policy of driving for immediate profits is responsible for destroying the environment, and destruction of the Third World.

Chomsky: “The Chairman of the Board of Directors may truly believes that at every moment, his efforts are to satisfy human needs. If he would really act to satisfy this image, instead of in the interest of profit and market domination, he could no longer remain Chairman”. The main reason for the environmental destruction is the iron rule of quickest possible profits, but this they rarely mention. This truth is too political, too radical for the environmental protection movements. Similarly, the green movements ignore that the corporation-controlled media avoids everything that would sound inconvenient for their advertisers. 

When, in October 1990 a U.N. conference was held about Global Warming, and all participants deemed the situation serious, nearly catastrophic, the New York Time headline read: “American data do not support the Global Warming forecasts”, and Forbes: ”The global warming panic: the classic case of an overreaction.”

As if the environmental groups would have believed that the corporations themselves want changes in a responsible manner, heading toward green consumption.

The corporate advertising started, saying that they are worried about the environment and it seems to some that something has really happened.

As Chomsky points out, the industrial domination supports the cruel dictatorship (El Salvador), armed overthrow of governments (Nicaragua, Panama), exploiting and exterminating the native inhabitants (East Timor). It would be ridiculous to imagine that in such a system -where truth, fairness and humanness could only happen by accident - anyone would be interested in the long, medium- or short-range course of the environment. The environmental movement itself is an enemy of the environment if it doesn’t attack the roots of the problem. Recycling, lead free fuel, etc. are completely irrelevant dead-ends. So are the phenomenon of environmental destruction, and destruction of the Third World’s economy, culture, and extermination of its peoples.

The reason: the uninhibited rush of the western world’s industrial/political leaders for quick profit. The environmental movement has to become a radical movement that will question the roots of today’s political and economic system. It must take to account the values of progress, consumption and the industrial infrastructure. We should say – like Chomsky, that we are not free here in the democracies, we are chained to the companies-controlled instruments of information, and we are inundated with their propaganda. Only, if a large portion of the population wakes up to the truth, can the “instruments of intellectual self defense come to life” (Chomsky).

The chief duty of the environmental movement is not the defense of the natural environment, but real democracy and freedom to know the truth of the deep-seated reasons behind environmental destruction. Everything else is only part of the duty.

 

2008.03.25. (day 537)

 

“The biggest challenge is the smallest boats”

 

Around in TEN: http://www.aroundinten.com/

 

(Solo Round-the-World race in 10 foot boats).

 

The goal is to break the 1987 record of Serge Testa’s 11’10” (Acrohc Australis).

The race will start in January 2009 from the Bahamas, time limit 18-24 months. Mandatory stops: Panama, Darwin, Capetown, Bahamas. (There’s no mandatory route). Gábor Rakonczay, transatlantic rower also shall start in this race. Lots of Luck!

 

Some contestants pages:

 

http://www.softcom.net/users/soolen/AroundInTen3.html

 

http://www.beaufort2.nl/Skippy.html

 

Basically the contestant’s primary aim is safety, speed is considered secondary. This is a difficult sailing style. There will be many starters but few will finish.

 

In my opinion:  

-          fast, light ship with minimal gear (max. 1 book, 2 polos, 2 pants and waterproofs)

 

-          there is no room for fruits, vegetables and tasty delicacies. The approximate menu: vitamins, rice and will have to catch fish.

 

-          Stopping every 1000/2000 nm for food acquisition, Equator – Martinique section will be the longest (about 3,600 nm), I do not recommend stopping at Galapagos.

 

-          should plan each leg for currents and winds, no matter how short

 

-          must work out one or two good methods for winds over Bf.8, the hove-to, heaving-to, lying-to, lay-to methods are not so easily employed here.

 

-     to “live” in a 10 foot ship for 2 years is a severe test of human nature! The emphasis is unambiguously

on spiritual preparedness. Must have an unbelievably strong motivation for this race! The contestants must forget this is a race, because this isn’t really a race, it’s rather an adventure.(‘more than race’).

My respects to every contestant. Forward!

 

The key is, also in this case, the ship.

It must be stable, unsinkable and storm-tight, (plus everything in it should be as simple as possible)!!.

Should be tested for weeks before the start. A fanatic crossed the Atlantic a few years ago in a cabinless catamaran. That is the sort of feeling one needs for this kind of sailing.

 

2 years in such little ship: because of the constant lack of movement (yoga and swimming aren’t enough for long range) problems will develop in the joints. Many can’t imagine the loneliness. This means approximately 30,000 nautical miles that will take at least over 500 days of solo sailing, and there is no shore leave in the middle of the Ocean.

 

Went to Lautoka in the morning, the mechanic shop was closed.

 

Shopping:

-          500 g moong (for germination or cooking)

-          500 g urdi (similar to moong only black)

-          500 g rice flour.

 

Mini multimeter (60 g, but does everything, the old one broke a few months ago) 15 FD

 

Ate Aachaart at the marketplace (masala and chili on fruit, Indian delicacy)

 

Swam in the pool at noon.

 

Afternoon chores:

-          setup the rigging

-          rigging up a scarecrow (that is tying a bad DVD in the cockpit, this is the working method here,

-          varnishing

-          hooking up and checking the top light.

 

Then interneted.

 

The world around Carina:

 

1.       I have some cockroaches again nowadays, they fly in sometimes if the door is open, though I’m using the mosquito netting most of the time. I’ll have to exterminate them again.

2.       This part of the marina is full of mosquitoes, you can hardly find them in other places. The mosquito net helps a lot.

3.       Ants. They’re teeming in the ship, I better start exterminating them asap. There isn’t too much food in the ship yet they quickly find even that little.

 

2008.03.26 (day 538)

 

Marianna’s grandfather (she works in the bar at the Yacht Club) is the ex-prime minister who was defeated in Dec. 2006.

 

Political situation in Fiji:

 

Politics are a little more complicated here, not only is there a government and Parliament, but also the Great Council of Chiefs.

The present  prime minister: Commodore Josaia Voreque Bainimarama. Details about the government:

http://www.fiji.gov.fj/

 

A brief overview of the past:

 

Timoci Uluivuda Bavadra (1934-1989) medical doctor, was Prime Minister for a month in 1937. Founder of the Workers Party. Prime Minister of the coalition of Workers Party and National Alliance Party (Indo-Fiji domination). The government was Indo-Fiji dominated but the P.M. was Fijian. After the election, where the Worker-NFP got 28 seats (7 Fiji and 21 Indo-Fiji representatives) and so four more than the Alliance Party (AP) in the Parliament. (In the elections the coalition was mainly supported by Indo-Fijians, Fijians 9% only…) So ended the 20-year domination of Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara.

 

Lieutenant Colonel Sitiveni Rabuka grabbed the power through a military Coup-d’Etat on May 13. On May 19 Governor General Ratu Sir Penaia Ganilau dissolved Bavadra’s government.

 

Ratu Mara became P.M. from Dec. 5 until 1992.

 

Major General Sitiveni Ligamamada Rabuka (1948 -): member of FPP, democratically elected P.M. 1991-1999, leader of the Great Council of Chiefs 1999-2001. Instigator of the two military coup d’etats. The USA did not accept him as Ambassador in 2005.

 

Mahendra Pal Chaudhry (1942 -) leader of Fiji Workers Party. On May 19 1999 he became the first Indo-Fiji P.M. Overthrown by a military coup d’etat by George Speight Fiji nationalist leader on May 19 2000. Then On May 27th President Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara dissolved his government. Mara wanted to grab the power for himself, but the military leader, Commodore Frank Bainimarama forced him to resign.

Chaundrhy was freed after 56 days in captivity. Minister of Finance since January 2007 in Commodore Frank Bainimarama’s government.

 

Laisenia Qarase (1941 -) Prime Minister 2000-2006.

 

Dr. Jona Baravilala Senilagakali, medical doctor, diplomat. Prime Minister after the military coup d’etat led by Commodore  Josaia Voreqe (Frank) Bainimarama: Dec. 5 2006Jan 5, 2007.

 

Minister of Health Jan 8 2007- Jan 4 2008.

 

Commodore Josaia Voreqe Bainimarama (1954 -), widely known as Frank Bainimarama. With chiefly title: Ratu of course. Military commander of Fiji. Prime Minister from Jan 5, 2007.

 

…unbelievably, the full story would be about 50 pages, too many military coups d’etat here.

 

Interneted briefly in the morning, then called my favorite mechanic, Daniel, but the starter still doesn’t work.

 

Today’s chores:

 

-          always used to leak around the deck mounts, so now burnished some more and repaired, strengthened it with glass tape and artificial rosin.

-          finishing up the varnishing, so my rudder is in place again,

-          drilled through 2 tires and trained ropes through them for bumper., The smallest available bumper costs

      70 FD in the store, so rather I made them. Will cover them later with pieces of clothing for aesthetics.

-          mast adjustment

-          sealing around windows

-          installed the HF antenna, which is a 10m dipole between the top of the mast and the stern of the ship.

Radioing postponed until later, there is chaos in the cabin. I.e.: have been sleeping on half a bed for the last 1-2 months, I wouldn’t have room for using the radio.

-     checking the lights.

 

Evening movie: The Power of Nightmare (BBC documentary about real-politics)

 

2008.03.27 (day 539)

 

Let your conscience be strong and clear. Then shall appear your real self, truth of the world and your duty without doubt and hesitation.” Zen  (translated from the Hungarian text/tr)

 

Worked hard all day. Washed the whole ship down in the morning. Afternoon burnished the wooden parts of the ship then varnished them. Smaller applications of glue with resin and glass tape. Re-insulated some mountings. Today also flew by quickly. The days seem to go by faster and the time of departure is rapidly approaching. I still have a lot to do on the ship, therefore I must work every day.

 

Dan, the mechanic didn’t pick up the phone so tomorrow I’ll go to Lautoka to his shop. The days are going by but the engine still doesn’t work!

 

2008.03.28 (day 540)

 

The word zen can be traced back to the Sanskrit dhyana expression, it’s meaning: meditation, absolution, turning into one.

 

A friend of mine suggested to me to write fewer quotations, so from now on I shall pause with them. Many people are reading me, this of course is one kind of publicity that has a well-defined purpose. In this an occasional Gandhi quote says more sometimes than I could.

 

I you are unlike the others, its always difficult. I’m not really a “yachtsman”.

 

There are several reasons for this:

 

1.       I have no yacht but a sailboat.

 

2.       I’m younger with long hair and beard.

 

3.       and I didn’t come from the U.S.A. J

 

No one says so, nor do they reveal it, but I know it is so,. The funny thing is that I’m considered rich in the eyes of the locals. They don’t see the difference.

 

Hitchhiked and bused to Lautoka in the morning. Spoke with Dan the mechanic. He promised it for Monday. This is what’s called here “Fiji time”.

 

Shopping:

 

-          0.5 kg dried yeast for bread and lángos (flat, deep fried Hungarian bread, rubbed with garlic/tr)  2.5 FD

 

-          0.5 kg Tavioka flour  0.9 FD

 

-          Karela (Indian vegetables for dinner) 1 FD

 

-          Bought a large portion of chili at the market (1 FD), a large part of that will preserve in a jar in vinegar. It should last for months in vinegar, without it 4-5 days only.

 

-          Plus a few simple and cheap staples, (i.e.: canned tuna, 0.75 FD/each).

 

Furthermore:

 

-          a small hand compass for 25 FD, the big one in the ship got wet, I don’t know how long it’ll last

 

-          a latch for the padlock for 1 FD, the door lock isn’t working, so from now on shall lock the door with a 

      padlock, the padlock is from back home, not waterproof.

 

-          200 ml of malathion, which is a strong ant poison (6 FD)

 

-          spray bottle 2 FD

 

-          two hacksaw blades, the one I bought in Morocco broke the other day (2.5 FD)

 

I want to know more about the Indian (Hindu) culture. Bought 2 films, 4 music CDs and a Thoughts of Satyi CD (About 1 FD apiece).

 

Recharged a phone card for 5 FD. I get double time if recharge it before the end of March. This is sometimes available at INK or at Fiji Vodafon. There are even free calling times at INK: before it was 3-5 p.m., then 22-00 hours, nowadays 1-3 a.m. INK to INK telephoning is free.

 

Rained all afternoon, so I didn’t work, only read.

 

Evening movie: Utthaan (a popular Hindi/Indian film)

 

2008.03.29 (day 541)

 

For the first time in the world, in Sidney, more than 2 million companies and households shut down electricity for one hour on March 31, 2007 – for Earth Hour, sending and strong national and worldwide message that it is possible to do something about global warming. In the evening of  2008.March 29 the Earth Clock will become global, because cities and millions of people join with the program, together for the greatest danger to our planet. If you wish to do something then you too switch off the electricity for an hour and forward this message to as many acquaintances as possible, so they too can join in this program, since this is in the common interest...  http://www.youtube.com/user/Earthhour2008

 

The inhabitants of the small Pacific Islands are closest to nature. Unfortunately they’re beginning to abandon their culture. The reason: globalization, TV, fashion…100-=200 years ago this must have been the untouched Paradise. People are beginning to forget their past and traditions, but there are some that are guarding it. I.e.: only the old people are wearing the classical Fiji hairdo, the young ones are combing theirs. There are some that are guarding the traditions, but fewer and fewer. What will happen here in 50 years?

 

Rained morning and afternoon, so didn’t work today either. There’s a cyclone near the Australian coast and pressure is low in the whole region. Much rain and wind are expected until Wednesday. The ship started to list, because one of the supports sank in the rain soaked soil and also the wind pushed it from the side. (the mast and wind generator are installed already).

 

The net was slow. I read and fried some lángos a la Chili (with powdered milk), it was fairly good but didn’t reach the level of Tihany. Then made pancakes from the leftover dough, they’re better like this, with yeast, than without.

 

Read today again: Ishmael, Daniel, Quinn

 

I wrote of this earlier: Fiction – the people are living in captivity and lies, there is one man who makes some money. Then he finds a teacher who teaches. - Fiction

 

Evening movie: Unns (a popular Hindi/Indian film).

 

Fiji’s main island: Vitu, the week is called Viti in Fijian. Therefore many believe, that “Fiji’s number” is seven.

Some thinks that’s why in Rugby 7 (Rugby is normally played by 15) Fiji is best in the world. Twice world champions, so far the only team to do so. What could Hungary’s number be (8x7 perhaps)? Now is the Singapore Cup of Rugby 7, so everybody is watching TV and the conversation theme is the same everywhere.

 

2008.03.30 (day 542)    

 

Rained all day so I couldn’t work around the ship.

 

Went over to Ruben and we ate mutton, made in Indian fashion. Got acquainted with Tua, who told us one or two fishing tricks, I’m collecting fishing tricks nowadays. Fiji has been called many names: Lost Paradise, Garden of Hidden. People like to explain everything, which is interesting of course, but often fairy tale like.

 

Everybody was watching the final Rugby 7 match in the evening. New Zealand won and Fiji lost.

 

2008.03.31 (day 543)

 

“…you don’t have a focused market. You don’t appeal to the big buck $ magazines, you’re closer to Robinson Crusoe, only instead of being marooned you’re being blown from port to port on a craft that is 1 R.C.H. above a navigation hazard. I love it because I’m a common guy that has a dream…” quote from a kind letter.

 

Went to Lautoka. Spent a few hours at the mechanic. I’ve learned a lot in this shop J. The engine if finally running, I only have to solve its free transportation back to the marina. Bought some ginger at the marketplace. Nowadays will be trying ginger. New flavors!!

 

Afternoon: worked on the ship in the marina, varnishing (deck handholds), fiber and resin work then painting.

 

2008.04.01 (day 544)

 

“…I was instantly impressed by what you are doing, or what you did, or just, the idea of doing what you desired to do…Carina inspires me and keeps that fire burning. Thanks.”

 

It’s good to read such letters when I’m alone and there’s a lot of work J.

 

Briefly neted in the morning, then worked on the ship all day. Chores: varnishing (left side handholds), painted over a few topside repairs, applying fiber (door opening) and caulking (near handholds). Then killed ants with malathion (diluted 1 tablespoon to 4 liters of water) sprayed around the ship, on deck and in rear compartments.

 

Perhaps will begin exterminating in the cabin tomorrow.

 

Recommended link: www.latitude38.com (popular page among American sailors).

 

2008.04.02 (day 545)

 

Today is my Name Day and Katica never forgets it, thank you for the picture card.

 

Charging the batteries a lot, and have to watch them better. Nowadays all ships carry deep-cycle batteries (not Carina), a few relevant links:

 

http://www.victronenergy.com

 

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm

 

http://www.batteryfaq.org/

 

Neted briefly at the café in the morning. Jim promised that he will bring the engine from Lautoka, but he was busy. Perhaps tomorrow. Fabricated a cover over the cockpit to have a little shade. Got the material before from Hans. Then spent the rest of the day putting things away in the cabin.

 

2008.04.03 (day 546)

 

brief neting at the café in the morning.

 

Went to Lautoka. Ashish swapped the 220 V – 18.5 V laptop adapter for a good one, (the old one put out 12.5 V only).

 

Shopping:

 

-          roti roller  (2.5 FD),

 

-          roti frying plate (9 FD),

 

-          press for garlic and ginger (3 FD)

 

Then met an acquaintance on my way to the mechanic, who transported the engine to the marina. He too has a ship here, but he also owns an island in the vicinity…

 

Afternoon chores:

 

-          painted the engine block with a layer of 199 (epoxy) sealant. The paint was pealed off, so the aluminum is constantly being galvanized. Without paint my engine would eventually be consumed...

 

-          burnished the ship, because I will algae-proof it on Sunday.

 

My best relations are with the security guards, unfortunately they are replaced every 3-4 months. There’s always a reason: tardidness, alcohol consumption…There’s a new security guard again: Ruben, replaced Mek.

 

Using vinegar more often nowadays (http://www.ecet.lap.hu). besides wine-, fruit wine-, and the spice vinegars they can be “seasoned” at home as well (with spices, medicinal herbs, fruits). In my opinion, if we prepare a good mother of vinegar, and have 4-6 weeks time, then it’s worth experimenting with it (apple vinegar, honey vinegar…). I would much appreciate if anyone knew and would send me a simpler recipe that requires few spices and basic materials J.

 

2008.04.04 (day 547)

No internet today. Rained all morning. Hoisted the engine in the shop, then painted it again with a layer of 199 epoxy sealer. Putting the gear in order in the ship, I can hardly move around in it. At noon bused to Ruben in Banaras. Meeting new people during the trip every time of course, it is very easy to do here. For example today: Sanealy, Nick. Lunch at Ruben was fried fish with dalo. I got many things from him: waterproof satchel, leather pouch, small, one person coffee maker with a box of coffee.

 

Evening, rested in the ship, watched movies. Alas frying roti is harder than I thought. The first edition didn’t turn out perfect.

 

I like to “counterpoint” during cooking, like masela with chili or sweet-sour sauce.

 

2008.04.05 (day 548)

 

Morning chores:

 

-          painted the engine block with a layer of polyurethane 343 gloss finish,

 

-          replaced the connector of the new laptop adapter

 

-          hand-burnished the whole hull with fine 120 sandpaper, will paint it tomorrow with alga repellent,

 

-          glued one of the small shelves with polyester

 

-          again removed the ants off the sails.

 

Afternoon: laundry, then Ana’s whole family came to visit and admire my ship.

 

Neted briefly in the evening, it’s available again at the marina J

 

The sailors gathered at the Yacht Club in the evening, swapped maps from 5-6 ships. (It’s only April yet, few returned from USA/AUS/NZ/EU). Of course I still have no charts for my planned route, but got a free Yasawa portion from Nick for example. Next week will photocopy Vanuatu, Torres straight and an Indonesia Guide book in town.

 

Useful page: http://www.yousendit.com/

 

2008.04.06 (day 549)

 

Hindu holiday: Gudi Padwa, first day of Chaitra month (based on Hindu calendar). Brahma created the Earth on this day (Brahma Purana). Ugadi also is on this day.

 

About the Hindu religion, culture: http://www.sanatansociety.org/

 

Hindu gods: Ganesh, Vishnu Avtar, Bal Krishna, Ganpati, Laxmi, Shiva, Shree Ram

 

Krishna’s life: http://www.krishna.avatara.org

 

I eat apples whenever I can. Thanks to its high pectin content (water-soluble edible fiber) effective against constipation as well as diarrhea. Ties down the poisonous materials, forms a protective layer on the intestines mucous membrane. It helps to prevent the development of tumorous diseases over the long range. They attribute its beneficial effect to the lowering of risk-prevention from heart-, and circulatory diseases as well.

Its potassium content causes a mild water-purging effect that could be favorable by lowering high blood pressure. Its advantageous effects on the body are preventative rather than curing. The minerals and vitamins in the fruit enhance the beneficial, healthful effects, by helping and strengthening each other’s effects. Calorie content is low, thus readily fits in the weight losing diets. The smooth absorption of its carbohydrates is facilitated by the pectin content.

 

Today’s chores:

 

-          painted the foot of the engine block with the last polyurethane 343-gloss finish.

 

-          applied two layers of anti fouling paint to the hull (with a 3 hr pause)

 

-          re-installed the engine in its place, securing with 8 bolts, but for some reason it isn’t perfect, I was unable to tighten 2 of the bolts. Will try again tomorrow.

 

Afternoon: laundry (3.5 FD) and hung it out to dry.

 

Ship’s paints:

 

http://www.interpaint.com

 

http://www.hempel.de

 

2008.04.07 (day 550)

 

I can’t find the locking cap of the propeller. The standard nut doesn’t work here. At noon bused to Lautoka to the machine shop to find a used one. Alas, the one I found turned out to be 1 mm larger (for a 15 HP one) and didn’t fit. Daniel promised me a good one for tomorrow.  I bought a good used propeller at the mechanic that I’ll start using from now on. (45 FD with caps). My old one will be the spare, because the two metals in the propeller will slowly separate.

 

Afternoon duties:

 

-          finalized securing the engine

 

-          hooked up the engine electronics

 

-          dried the bow section compartment out because it leaked again.

 

The captain of Kiwi Dream brought over a few photocopies of maps and a copied Guide book of the upcoming areas. Photocopying cost 36 FD.

 

Neted during the night and dawn and downloaded books from the net.

 

http://terebess.hu/keletkultinfo/hamvasbela.html

 

http://mek.oszk.hu

 

http://e-konyv.lap.hu/

 

In 1955 only one man lived in Hungary, who not only could have conversed with Heracleitos, Buddha, Lao-ce and Shakespeare in their own mother languages, but could’ve spoken in them also. Had the four prophets of the human spirit deplaned from their airplanes in Tiszapalkonya, and had they addressed the first worker, and had that been Béla Hamvas, and had they exhausted their themes with him over the course of three nights (Hamvas had to mix mortar during the daytime, but his guests might possibly have helped him) – then what would they have thought of the fact: if such is a laborer in this country, then WHAT KIND OF PEOPLE WOULD BE THE LITERARY ONES in it? (Géza Szõcs)

 

A good friend of mine called my attention to www.kukac.sk (independent forum portal of the highlands) and the there mentioned topic about me. I will answer the kind encouragements.

 

2008.04.08 (day 551)

 

Olive oil is very special and healthy. I use it mainly instead of butter, margarine. The virgin and the extra virgin olive oils are the best.

 

Extra virgin: they wash the olives, then after drying they press them with a mechanical process. They carefully knead it to separate the oil, then settle and centrifuge it. The resulting extra virgin olive oil is stored in suitable tanks, then filtered and bottled. No solvent or heat is used during the process. No preservative or additive is used, so the extra virgin olive oil retains its original flavor, vitamin content, its valuable, non-saturated fat-acid content is not affected, remains very rich in antioxidants. For this reason the olive oil – by replacing other fats – eliminates numerous unhealthy factors. Details: http://oliva.lap.hu/

 

Bused to Lautoka in the morning to the mechanic shop. Replaced the propeller end cap with a good one and I received a free cotter pin for it. Finally installed the propeller in the afternoon.

 

After that I went to the Post Office because my new auto-pilot has arrived. Simrad TP10 from the USA for 349 USD. This was the greatest expense nowadays, but the old one has been repaired and I don’t trust it too much. I didn’t have to pay duty because mine is a transitory ship. I had to walk over to the customs office though to turn in the postal paper.

 

Shopping:

 

-          extra virgin Olive oil 12 FD

 

-          black RTV silicone (silicone gasket maker & adhesive sealant) 7.5 FD                                                                                                                       

   

The old one dried out, I’m using it to seal the exhaust pipe, where it must tolerate high temperatures.

(to 315°C). I think that this is a basic material in the ship before a longer voyage.

 

Free superglue came with it, the old one in the ship has dried out.

 

-          2 m solder 5 FD (expensive but supply almost gone)

 

-          pop riveter for 22 FD, this was the best/strongest in town, it works with steel, even stainless rivets as well. Only aluminum rivets are available in town, bought a few in all sizes.

 

Afternoon: finalized the hookup of engine electronics in the marina. This would go easy in an average ship, but not in mine. I have to figure out the connections in every case. Grounding is simple, everything is hooked to the engine block. The red lead is also simple, the hot from the battery, the hot from the engine electronics. Orange wire is not so simple, the one coming from the lower plug’s electronics. The generator electronics also has 4-5 colored wires other than the red/black one. The problem is that no one can help me with this. My father could of course, but it isn’t so simple because of the distance. Finally the engine started and I basically figured out everything (except 2 wires) J.

 

Washed the compartments under the coffin bunks on both sides, then re installed the port rear bunk. After 3 months I have a little more room again. “Swinging your feet in Fiji” goes on every day, as always. I’m cleaning and repairing a minimum of 8 hours a day.

 

Neted a few hours at night.

 

2008.04.09 (day 552)

 

On the net: Haroki Murakami’s page - a good Japanese writer - http://www.murakami.ch, also contains some of his writings.

 

Tested my old drinking waters. Seemed ok, so put them back in the ship. So now the cabin is completely full. I have twenty 1.5 liter and one 5 liter bottles from the previous ports, I’ll have to supplement this set too.

 

Last checks, then craning back in the water. Once the ship was in the water, I noticed leaks by the bolts securing the motor. Quick decision: back to dry land.

 

I couldn’t take the engine out all afternoon because it was raining. Maybe tomorrow. Spoke with Gary, Allen and Hans and even the shop salesman about the case. They gave me advices. Held a one kind brainstorm and wrote everything on paper. I won’t know the reason for the leak until I take the engine out.  Perhaps the problem is at the bolt holes.

 

Theorizing for this case:

 

1.       should use inox legbolt

 

2.       secure it with more bolts (10 instead of 8 for example)

 

3.       deeper holes (and repair threads in the holes)

 

Must find a new solution for sure so that the engine can be removed in the future too for possible repairs.

 

Hans invited me for dinner, so tonight I again had a special vegetarian dinner. He told me that a few weeks ago a solo French sailor ran aground in a 30-foot ship near Tuvalu and the ship sank.

 

2008.04.10 (day 553)

 

I have been in Fiji for 5 months.

 

A few books of Kenzaburo Oe, Nobel Prize winning Japanese author on the Net:

http://www.questia.com/library/literature/kenzaburo-oe.jsp

 

When I make a mistake I gain more than I lose. The problems I’m living with really help me along. Sometimes it’s difficult, but have seen a lot worse.

 

I had a little beef with the marina manager. They mixed up my mail and gave me a package more than 2 months late, and didn’t even apologize.

 

I should be paying for the power too, yet in my ship there aren’t any serious electronics, would only use it to charge my telephone and laptop. Paying daily 5.5 FD for ship storage, would have to pay an additional 3 FD for power. Two weeks ago I paid 40 FD for power, total cost since November.

 

I have been using the adjacent shower for storage, because my ship is small and have too much gear, this is against the rules. The manager has been after me for two months to get rid of it, so I emptied it completely two weeks ago.

 

Would have to pay 295 FD for the next craning that’s too much for me. So I went to the marina office in the morning to talk with the manager. I keep asking him for things that he usually denies, but today – I know not why – he lowered the price to 200 FD.

 

There are very many ships on the beach in the harbor, so they get in each other’s way. The rule is, that if the space has to be altered when a ship is hoisted ashore, the extra cost is 100-150 FD. Tomorrow they’ll crane another ship behind me, but of course I don’t have to pay for that.

 

Actually I made a mistake by hurrying. I have been dreaming for days now, that the ship turned over in a greater wind. Therefore I wanted to put the ship back in the water as soon as possible.

 

Completely removed the engine in the morning. Cleaned out and checked the threads of the securing bolts.

That’s not the problem. The problem is that the holes in the rubber gasket between the hull and the engine block do not match perfectly. The rubber gasket shrank during the two months while the engine was in the shop. Therefore the bolts had to be forced, they weren’t at the correct angle and couldn’t be driven in completely. That should be done perfectly.

 

I must do something with the rubber gasket. Hans gave me a good quality silicone (all clear water barrier, seals out water), that I might be able to use here.

 

Rained in the afternoon, so I was thinking about this problem, then neted at night.

 

Talked with Zsuzsa Gaál. Their company, Henry Lloyd’s representative in Hungary, is sending me very good quality sailing clothes. I’ll finally have proper clothing:

 

-          jumpsuit

-          dry, pull-over style upper

-          fast drying short-sleeved

-          long sleeved, zippered garment for under dry clothing

-          underpants for under dry clothing

-          aquadeck shoes

and many other things…

 

Thank you very much!

 

Their web store:

 

http://www.henrilloyd.hu/

 

http://www.henrilloyd.hu.catalog/index/php

 

2008.04.11 (day 554)

 

An acquaintance’s acquaintance has been building his sailboat for 25 years. So far the longest known shipbuilding story was 15 years, that I heard. It didn’t have happy ending though, because he sold the half-built ship J.

 

Earlier I’ve not been paying attention to the different kinds of silicones before as long as they were cheap and waterproof. It will be much better if I use the best during the repairs.

 

Silicones that I should be using nowadays: Sikaflex 291, Sikaflex 295, Fast Track (Simson ISR 70-03, MSR FT), Bedding Compound, Deck Caulk, Premium Grade (Acetic). The company’s page: www.bostik.co.uk

 

I was looking for silicones in town in the morning but couldn’t find a suitable one, so I had to buy a 100 ml Sikaflex 291 (Elastic Marine Adhesive Sealant) at the expensive marina store for 23 FD. This is what I shall apply between the engine block gasket and the hull.

 

In town I purchased cheap, simple foods, like noodles, canned tuna, bread, onions and garlic. Today's specialty is paan, a rather interesting, sweetish tasting leaf they eat as dessert, with almonds, sugar, raisins and seasonings. Bought a few leaves at the marketplace that I later prepared in the ship.

 

Luna (Larsen) arrived at the marina at noon. We have known each other since Panama/Colon (2007 Apr). He was one of my line handlers during the transit, and he was most helpful then. We later met in Nuku Hiva, Tahiti, Savusavu and now here.

 

In the afternoon occupied myself with the engine. Secured the hole in the rubber gasket and the hole in the engine metal plate with a #8 screw and nut, then stretched further while heating it with a hair dryer, so, slowly I was able to stretch the two holes together in every place. Then let it set for a few hours. Afterwards I began to tighten the bolts without applying Sikaflex – namely re-installing the engine. Of course it didn’t go easy. I figured out the best order to tighten the bolts (of course always slowly and evenly tightening opposites) watching how much strain is on the bolts. Having developed the theory and after a little practice, asked Ibrahim (Pearl Jack’s worker), to hold the engine while I applied a thin layer of Sikaflex to the spaces between the bolt-holes in the hull. Then lowered the engine (Sikaflex sets in 45 minutes) and began to slowly tighten the bolts around the block (Sikaflex sets in 45 minutes). Everything appears good, I hope it will be so. Rained all afternoon, earlier I fixed a bimini over the cockpit so the engine wouldn’t get wet.

 

Went to Ruben for dinner in the evening. Had a good time. He has a 5 year old little son, Marko. Child upbringing here is different from the European way. More freedom, they don’t get rebuked for everything. They don’t have to go to bed early, only when they want to J

 

Friday and Saturday evenings are always special here. Friends and relatives gather to drink kava, then beer. Playing cards, talking, occasionally playing music together. It’s sometimes called a “club” because they share the cost of food and beverages. “MOVMENT” means more than “club”, because they have a purpose, (like social), but real activity is less off course J. Then there are gangs which occasionally commit crimes in secret. (this is a secret). So are Friday and Saturday evenings in Fiji.

 

Hitchhiked to Banaras and back at night. On these trips we talked on almost every occasion. I got to know their story and they got to know mine. How many people did I talk with during the course of my voyage? How many did I tell my story? I think – conservatively - they number more than 1000 J.

 

When I started to walk toward the highway after 10 p.m., I got acquainted with Mark who invited me to his home. Large house, not an average Fiji rather simple style. We drank tea and talked.

 

2008.04.12 (day 555)

 

Hindu holiday today: Vasant Navratri (with dance and religious service). It means: “nine nights”.

 

Had coffee with Jimmy and Gerhard at the café in the morning. The subject was ship repairs and possible routes in the area, then returned to the ship. The neighboring French ship (Ovni-35 – alu French made) gave me an old cockpit tent as a gift, they have a new one.

 

Tried to check the motor-hull seal with a hose. Seems ok but this isn’t a reliable way to test it.

 

Rained all day. Forecasting rain for the next few days. The dry season begins in May, I can hardly wait.

 

My evening movie: Om Shanti Om. Many think the best Hindi film of 2007. Their style is very far from the European film world’s, so it's hard to understand/like it J.

 

2008.04.13 (day 556)

 

Hindu religious holiday today: Rama Navami.(Rama’s birthday). One of their greatest religious holidays. The other great one is the Deepavali on November 9th.  Krishna and his wife (Satyabhama) killed the demon Narakasura on this day. According to another story Rama and Sita returned to the Kingdom of Ayodha on this day after a 14 year banishment.

 

Replaced the bad/rusty switch of the pump to a waterproof good one. It wasn’t so simple, because (not just a soldering exchange) I had to cut the old one with a hacksaw and flex, then had to enlarge the hole in the ship’s body as well because the new switch is larger. Then sealed the engine switchboard with Sikaflex. After that repaired the engine signal light. Rained all afternoon so I couldn’t finish hooking up the engine electronics.

 

An acquaintance suggested a book: The Secret.

 

http://www.atitok.hu

 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6843318800161213935

 

2008.04.14 (day 557)

 

Hindu holiday: Tamil New Year.

 

Briefly about the Hindu religion in Fiji:

 

Every Tuesday late afternoon they read Ramiyam in the temple, this is also their religious service. Every temple has at least one caretaker, pandet, who usually is unmarried. Hindi language lesson:

http://www.ukindia.com/zhin001.htm

 

Got up early morning and began checking the engine. First the starter fell off, they forgot to re install a securing bolt in the shop. I had no such bolt, so went to the marina sailing store to buy one. After hooking up the electronics tried to start it to no avail. Turned out that it didn’t get enough fuel. The sparkplug gave a yellow spark, but it’s base was dry. The sparkplug should have fuel on it. Blew out the filter in the engine, then pumped the fuel pump more and it finally started.

 

Paid for the latest craning. Then Mo and George hoisted Carina back in the water. One good news: no water came in. the other good news was that the engine ran.

 

The bad news is that the engine has the following problems:

 

-          the direction changer isn’t aligned well, Dan didn’t do it accurate enough in the shop

 

-          the cooling water does not exit from the engine, I can suction it with my mouth

 

-          it appears the fuel is seeping along the headgasket.

 

Called Dan, the mechanic, he promised to come out tomorrow afternoon to take a look at it.

 

First I’m going to try to blow the system with compressed air, perhaps something clogged up the pipe and will look at the cooing water opening underwater. I hope the waterpump (impeller) didn’t  break. The engine ran well in the shop!

 

An interesting musical instrument:

 

Hang Dum musical instrument: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LfJLvuZqmQ&NR=1

 

Rafael Sotomayor: http://www.myspace.com/137747417