The ’Last’ Repairs
Part 13, June 3 to July 4, 2008.
2008.06.03. (Day 619)
Went to the marina office in the morning and collected
the items sent by Henri Lloyd Hungary and Hella Companies, my sponsors of the
trip. Henry Lloyd sent sailing clothes, Hella LED lights and various electrical
parts for the boat. Thank you.
Washed the ship J. Checked the water level in the bottom of the
boat, found virtually no water that makes me quite happy. Started to review the boat and packing. Since I was not here for more than a month,
had a lot to do. Went to town in the afternoon to shop for vegetables, canned
fish and some noodle.
Dan, my motor mechanic is on a funeral, so we determined the day of the
repairs on phone: Friday, the 6th of June.
Went to the boat next to me, the Shambhal for a
little talk, picture exchanging and to play card.
There was no net in the marina tonight, could not
get on.
2008.06.04. (Day 620)
’Fire walking’ (Vilvailaiero in Fijian). The Na Ivilaukata
Clan from Bega (Mbenga) Island performs the fire walk here on Fiji. They have
the ’masawe’ – the power for it.
Did some yoga in the morning with Nick, standing on
the edge of the marina where there is not much traffic, we were virtually
alone. Then meditated in the boat.
Wanted to get on the radio but the HF radio is not
functioning, will look at it tomorrow when will have enough space in the boat
to work on it.
Spent a few hours on the net and finally could send
pictures to my web site – am usually a bit slow with it.
Discussed the motor repair tasks with Mo and Georg
in the afternoon. The marina manager allowed me to use the space next to the
crane because there will be no crane operations at
that time. Mo stated his opinion of the work. In short, it will not be easy.
Was no net in the marina at night – could not get
on, altough would have been nice to be able to talk to the family finally.
2008.06.05. (Day 621)
Disassembled the HF radio in the morning and did
some testing, measured 12.37 volts at the switch, but
the set still did not turn on. Noticed
that the dipole antenna connector got rusted, has to be replaced too.
Hitchhiked to Lautoka in the afternoon. First went
to the motor mechanic, Dan. Agreed on
the motor repair plan, he will come to the marina tomorrow at 3 P.M. Then purchased a coaxial cable connector (FD8.5) to replace the corroded one. Was not easy to find it,
had to cover the whole town and had it only at one place.
In case I can not repair the radio, I located a
technician in town who would do the work. Accidentally met Szai in the
afternoon, went to eat cookies next to the market place. Szai is the nephew of Sam,
sometomes we meet like this, drink coffe and have fun together.
Took the bus and also hitchhiked back in the
evening.
2012 A.D.: December 21, 2012 is the end of the Mayan
calendar. Some think that date is the end of the world. (According to the Moslim
calendar the end is in 2076, the Jewish calendar predicts 2240 A.D.)
Many think that it is the year of change. „The
Earth itself will transform inside n’ out, prepares to enter a higher level of
consciousness. This elevation will affect people as well, only those can
continue to live, who will rise to a higher level in spirit together with the
Planet.”
According to Carlos Barrios if we will not destoy
the Earth by then, we will „rise to a higher level.” For instance the human DNA will
experience a large change – Indigo child (some think this is only a fable). It
is certain that the sunrise will be different on that day. ’Time of Great
Change’:
www.diagnosis2012.co.uk.; http://www.halexandria.org;
http://www.ewswoopglobal.com/2012.htm;
http://www.greatdreams.com/2012.htm
http://www.experiencefestival.com/earth_changes_2012
2008.06.06. (Day 622)
Here in the marina there is a
constant search for deckhands by 4-5 ships for the Vanuatu-New
Caledonia-Solomon Islands-PNG trips for paying helpers of course, payment is
daily 15-50 USD.
Got up early morning and unpacked a few heavy items from
the ship, then when the tide arrived at somewhat later than 9, the marina motorboat
pulled me to the crane area. The crane operates practically every day except
today, so I can use the space. At high
tide, placed boards under the keel. Then tied the front end with 4 ropes to
prevent the boat from slipping (the crane area is not horizontal -:). To prevent the boat from tipping to the
sides, looped two ropes under the boat in front and after the keel weight, tied
them to the crane. As a security measure, tied two ropes to the mast top
too. On the sides, dampers were applied,
but were not needed. Pulled in with nose
first but in this case the boat was resting on the rudder because the place is
not horizontal. Quickly turned the boat around, it is simpler this way. (See
the Gallery).
A few sailors and some marina workers helped too because
to do this job properly, tieing up the boat
in a short time is nearly impossible alone!!
After this I painted the algae killer on the nose
because the water level was higher than anticipated. Then checked out what I
could before the mechanic comes. The
impeller was OK, tested the water flow with a hose, found no problems. Somewhat
late David and Daniel, the motor mechanics came. Daniel worked about an hour on
the engine.
The cooler-system pipe over the impeller was clogged up, but he could not
reassemble it. He said that a piece broke off from the brass part, then sealed
up the hole with silikaflex and a plastic bag – will hold out hopefully for a
few days. Dan did not promise anything,
don’t know when is he coming back..... May not have
selected the right mechanic.
At the night tide had to pull the boat back alone
with the marina dinghy to its place, was not hard just quite tiring after a
long day.
Watched these pictures in the
evening: http://www.zawar.hu/foto/arc2005/index.php
2008.06.07. (Day 623)
Anoushka Shankar: http://www.anoushkashankar.com
Doing clothes washing in the morning and cleaned
out the boat. Put together the HF radio
– the problem seems serious – will take it to the technician in the city
Monday.
Got on the net in the afternoon near the coffee
house and had fun with friends J.
Also Shambhala returned from a few days’ trip
around the neighboring islands, the other crew member, Rick has to fly back to
New Zealand – the work and a girlfriend are waiting, and a ’normal’ predictable
life.
Meditated and talked, then Rick invited us for a
tasty dinner in the marina restaurant. It was the first time here that payed
for the food J. Had
some beer and played card in the boat in the evening. Did not lose
today J. Of course, I would not bet my boat
on the cards, am not that much of a card player, however, in the past six
months I progressed a lot in this area too.
2008.06.08. (Day 624)
Still getting e-mails from New
Zealand that they need crew for a ship. For instance, the captain of a Canadian
Formosa 46-er (1977
)looked me up. One can find ships for ocan travel.
Right after got up in the morning, went over to Shambhala
for a common meditation. Nick tought Rick in the past few months on the small
islands how to meditate.
Unfortunately the WLAN came on only after 11, of course,
everybody wanted to get on it (about 10-15 laptops) which slowed down the net
to near uselessness..
I eat Biopont rice these days – still have some in this
small ship J - or noodles with vegetables and tuna from
the can.
This is the fastest, cheapest
and simplest, besides it is enough for me.
Got acquainted with Bob
(Serenity), the owner of a wooden Tahiti ketch.
His story: he bought it 6 years ago for USD5000 in a very bad condition,
fixed it up with his own money, work and equipment. He is around 60 and has a very painful
injury, now he is not working, just relaxing on his ship J. Has to go back to Australia after 3 months –
he is a car mechanic.
Meditated with Nick and Sophie
on Shambhala in the evening.
2008.06.09. (Day 625)
Hull Shapes: http://www.sailingcatamarans.com/hullshapes.htm
Got up early in the morning – will be a long
day. Pull Carina on the strand, then
will prop-up from the side and when low-tide comes, will fix it with the moror
mechanic.
Called the mechanic already yesterday to plan for the time of the low-tide
on Monday, but did not promise anything.
Called Dan and David this morning 4-5 times, finally got a promise for 3
PM. The water level should be low by
then.
Plan for today:
High tide – 1.88m – at
10:42 (a small motorboat will tow me);
Low-tide: - 0.38m – at 17:09
(+/- 3 hours motor repair);
High-tide: - 1.78m – at
23:40 (a small motor boat will tow me back to the matina).
A small motor boat pulled me to the beach in front
of the marina, then with the help of Nick and Noe we stabilized the boat. The
beach is sandy and level.
(Noe is an American opportunity crew member. His
goal is to sail with a
60 foot catamaran to Galapagos-Tonga, then with a smaller
sailboat to Tonga-Fiji, and now with a sailboat named Flight to Vanuatu.
(Usually pays nothing, but now has to pay a minimal amount for food).
Affixed 2 ropes to the nose and anchored them on shore. Pushed/dug into the
sandy soil 1-1 large wooden rod next to the boat side to which we attached the
side of the boat. Placed stones on the rods to prevent slippage. In addition, placed 1-1 other wooden rods
next to the large ones for security. Tied the ropes very strogly to boat shell
– this is essential. Fundamentally, this is the English method. The ship stood nicely and stably vertical. Continuously checked til 13, since
the first 2 hours are critical.
In cases like this, the marina of course sends the
bill, according to a time scale. For
instance they sent me a bill for charges for the time when I was not in the
country, but used electrical power in the marina......FD390
was the charge for 2 months plus a few more days.
Paid until May 19 for a half year for my place in
the marina on dry land, but the last month the boat was in the water, for this
I had to pay extra.
The motor mechanic came and in 2 hours reassembled the
motor parts and adjusted the gears.
The charge was FD45, out of which the travel was
FD10. This was the time when I noticed that from the
4 motor suspension bolts two were rusted out and broke. The motor tilted 2-3 millimeters toward the back
that was not obvious by looking at it.
Most probably this happened before arriving back, this may have caused
the shaft fracture in November at the southern part of Fiji. Dan
did not think that this is a big problem.
Essentially spent the whole day on the strand.
Meszaki and Moura came to my strand (’Eroni-strand’) and were talking and
drinking a bit.
Was alone at night when the high-tide came. Sam,
the security man did not want to come and help me, but I talked him into it.
Went to the marina motor boat to the strand and jumped in the water. Prior to
this I prepared everything for the action. I, however did not calculate the
head wind and the big waves which were unfortunately stronger than the 8 HP
marina motors. The motor boat pulled, I pushed, every so often pulled down the
mast top with an elevator
rope. Felt that the wind
and the waves pushing me toward the shore. After a 15-20 minute trial decided
to fasten the boat. I was left alone in the dark, Sam went back to the marina.
Main concern was to maximally stabilize the boat. Proceeded to the shore for
wooden bars and a 3-hours-plus work followed in the water. Left my shoes in the marina boat, I was bare
footed now. Ran with bare feet in the
sandy coral-laden strand and dug out the sand under the steering with my hands.
By morning my hands and feet were full of wounds, but only one of them was
serious on my sole. Am concerned about infection. Fell asleep at 4 in the
morning in my sleeping bag.
2008.06.10. (Day 626)
Got up 7 in the morning. The boat did not turn to its
side but tilted some and for this reason did not sleep in it. The high-tide
arrives at 11:47 – maybe it will be a success then.
Everything is easier at daylight because I can see the ship J. In addition, can find help too. Norua with the motor and Nick with me were
pushing/pulling the boat in the water, pulled it downward with the mast top. At
last we were able to push CARINA out of the strand. Success! In 5 minutes I was back in my place in the
marina. Everything was covered with sand – inside and out, it was chaotic. Due
to the work on the motor, under and over the right-side coffin bed had to be
vacated, so my bed was full of the stuff.
It was too dark after the motor work to pack everything back.
Just realized that this task will be a lot of work too.
Took my RF radio to the technician in Lautoka in the
afternoon and purchased vegetables on the city market and noodles in the
store. Had to visit one of my friends,
consequently got back in the marina only in the evening. Had some drinks in the
club with Ian, a Canadian solo sailor becuse the sailors gave a concert to
other sailors today.
Constantly thinking about – how can the motor bolts be repaired.
Stormy, windy sailing (BT
Global Challenge 2000): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXuzy0k9mZQ
2008.06.11.
(Day 627)
Sailing categories:
Tiny size: under 4 meters L.O.A.
(T.I.N.Y. – This is no
yachting:-).
Midget size: 4.01 m – 6.50 m L.O.A.
Medium size: 6.51m – 15.50m L.O.A.
Major size: 15.51m – 24.50m L.O.A.
Giant size: over 24.50m.
A sailboat named Nomadlife arrived in the marina before
noon. Met this ship in April 2007 in
Colon and in November in Tonga.
Spent the afternoon with the Canadian sailor Ian, helped
him with the repqaiar of the electrical lighting, then sipped beer together on
shore.
Later started to restore order in Carina. The ’stranding’
on Monday and Tuesday made sand covered everything in the cabin. In addition,
inspected the space under the bed.
Called the radio repairman, can pick up the set tomorrow
– was not a big problem, a contact got rusted that I could not find........
Evening: watched a film in the Club.
Consulted with my father about
the broken motor mounting bolts. According to him it could be difficult to
repair them in the boat. I am thinking
that it is possible and it would be simpler and cheaper.
Stormy sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0qbyRWSptg&feature=related
2008.06.12. (Day 628)
Basically it is a part of sailing that boat repairs and
painting can be made during low-tides. The first time I used this system was on
Galapagos a year before and now on Friday, Monday and
Tueasday at dawn again. As an example, the bamboo rods in my ship serve the
same purpose. It is very important to have wood and other material for the
stabilization of the boat since there are no cranes on most islands, but painting
and repairing has to be made sometimes. In lieu of a crane a sandy shore and a
few strong wood rods suffice J.
Different schemes exist to shore-up the boats, but the
pictures speak for themselves.
Went to Lautoka for my radio – it had
no serious problem just a rusted contact.
Funny, I tested it with a meter, but it did not show the problem.....(FD10). Then purchased vegetables and banana on the
market. Back to the marina with bus.
Fuel purchase: 24 liters of mix (about FD49).
Buying water: in two 25 liter tanks (with hypo
preservative) and 4ea 5-liter and 2ea 15-liter tanks (no hypo)
Difficult to find the proper weight distribution because
in my case there is a large number of mobile ballasts (tanks and packages).
Later had to stop working on the deck due to rain,
therefore was arranging things in the cabin and tuned the HF radio to 14
MHz. Evening: meditation with Nick.
Looking for a new motor mechanic for the problems!
Hydrofoil speed record: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCuP-XHefTo&feature=related
2008.06.13. (Day 629)
Friday the 13th – not looking for a mechanic today!
A short motor test before noon, the cooling water
flows, all seems to be OK.
Based on the weather forcast there wil be good
weather from Tuesday next week, a low-pressure zone exists until then: rain
around Fiji......
Several sailors start out then, who have a private
’friendly’ HAM net too.
Evening: talking and drinking on Nomadlife with Graham
and Judith til late night.
What were we talking about? Story of acquaintances colliding with a vale
(the ship did not get damaged), mast fractures and similar accidents among
tourists during last year’s Tonga-NZ section, lightning srtikes hitting
sailboats near Panama, submarine after Galapagos.
During the transit on the Atlantic Ocean a serious
electrical fire happened on the Nomadlife. The reason: shifted battery position
and worn insulation.
Vendee Globe 04/05: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjYY1VfyesE&feature=related
2008.06.14. (Day 630)
The first T.I.N.Y.
trans-Atlantic crossing trial is connected with William Andrews, an American.
Unfortunately my sources are contradictory. It is sure, however, that he tried
three times with 3 different boats to cross the Atlantic therefore he can be
considered to be the founder of the Blue Water Game (B.W.G.)
movement:
Purchased fuel before noon, again 20 liters of mix for ~
FD40,
Then got on the net (WLAN) near the coffe shop. Came a
larger ship and had to move the boat to a different place.
Afternoon: tried to radio but perhaps because the rain,
heard no stations on 14.290 MHz.
Meditated and talked with Nick and Sophie in the evening.
Le Vende Globe (2000-2001): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGIOqigTxG0&feature=related
2008.06.15. (Day 631)
Met today with a French
traveler who sailed the New Zealand-Lautoka trip in 37 days with a ~ 100-foot
sailboat. Did not understand the reason and perhaps the ship was too old and
heavy.....
The first window leaked and I got wet, repaired the seal
before noon with a special silicone compound.
A 25 liter container broke again: -1 tank, +1 support
utensil.
Found az ant colony on the first deck under the sails –
killed them with chemicals, then vigorously washed the deck.
C leaned the three black food barrels, placed them in the
cabin.
Afternoon: rope and deck order.
Because my little motor problem Ronil (my namesake) came over – a motor
mechanic from
India, heard only good things about him and discussed the repair plan for
tomorrow.
17:20 – 19:20: radio and dinner.
Unfortunately could not hear Hungarians and just barely others. Will check the
antenna tomorrow again.
Sailing the Noth Atlantic: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xX0ZGzuo78&feature=related
2008.06.16. (Day 632)
One has to mind the boast
constantly, one of the difficult aspets of sailing.
Fiji national holiday: for the occasion of the birthday
of the British queen.
Went to shop in the city in the morning (FD94): 15 canned
fish, 5 canned chicken, 5 canned sheep meat, 5 canned bean, 2 kg rice, 4 kg
sugar, 1 preserve, 2 liters of oil, 1 liter soy sauce, 700 grams of hazelnut
creme, 5 200-gram biscuits, 1 kg washing powder, etc.
By noon was back in the marina, the motor mechanic came too.
The ’little’ motor problem is a special one: two of the
four motor support suspensions got rusted and broke. Consequently the motor is
slanting, the difference is only 2-3 millimeters but this cold have caused the
axle fracture at my arrival. Want to
correct this before my departure. If it left it uncorrected, the axle can break
again in an hour. Removing or exchanging the rusted part is impossible in the boat.
Ronil had the original thought
that he will make an ’U’-shaped metal piece what he will weld onto the motor
holding part under the motor, then stabilize it from above with a bolt forcing
the motor into the proper position (see the Gallery pictures).
We covered the motor with wet rags and put the fire
extinguisher in close by. Unfortunately
the piece can only be welded marginally, it is an aluminum alloy. The welding
would be expensive.
Ronil’s idea was that he will make two hardware pieces
for tomorrow what he will not weld but affix it with screws. In that case the
two out of the eight support bolts will tension upwards in the wrong direction
what is undesirable on the long run.
Went to Meszaki settlement (a village which has no chief) situated before Lautoka on the shore. Placed a
hot kura-leaf on my infected wound on my foot. This is better than the
traditional chili-leaf tratment of Fiji.
Stormy sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKusg6Jyc9Y&NR=1
2008.06.17.
(Day 633)
8,137 Hz 09:00 LT is the common
friendly net in the area and Ian, the Canadian sailor (Africo) uses the same.
Will try it too because the 14 MHz has not worked with the Hungarians so far
(18 Local Time -19LT). New idea for the repair: will force the motor back into
its place with two bolts, for this we have to cut threads in the lower metal,
need no welding for this.
Had to go to town to buy four 19 cm long No. 13 bolts with washers, paid FD8.5.
Bought also: tooth brush, tooth paste, soap, coffee, canned
tomato, biscuits for FD20.
Ronil, the mechanic did not
show up at 2, but finally picked up the phone and arrived at 3 – brought no
tools.....
This means we had to borrow tools from the other sailors
– was not easy because many do not use metric tools and in the majority of
ships no such tools are to be found. Finally Nil, the captain of Koro gave us
the tools. Another problem was that we
did not have long enough drill bits – nobody else had. Ronil left at 5.
Agreed to continue tomorrow at 7:30
– will pay only upon the completion of the work.
Storm sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4oYkF3Ejuo&feature=related
2008.06.18. (Day 634)
Ronil did not come in the
morning and did not pick up the phone either. I felt that everybody is aganst me..... Have to look for a new expert.
In the early afternoon went to Lautoka with auto-stop and
went to a shop I knew and used before. Talked with the shop boss who promised
to come tomorrow morning and will fix the suspension.
Sailing pairs are trying to live a social life. It is
difficult because most of the ships spend only a short time with another ship.
Constant movements, sailing and many different plans. In the marina, at the
anchoring areas naturally cliques will form (often based upon nationalities and
age). The French always keep together, don’t know the reason but possibly due
to their horrible English – like mine. The solo sailors usually group together, they have a
common theme. The third clique is the alcoholics, they congregate in the bar
from afternoon to the evening. A good bunch, this clique is more open than the average J.
Te average sailing pairs feel time-to-time the need for
socializing, for this reason they organize dinners, some times a bit
forced. In my case of course, this does
not apply J.
Sailing off of Cape Horn:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3tKql2ePyc&NR=1
The Story of My Motor Purchase
I am thinking of an outboard
motor since Galapagos. My built-in motor is 27 years old and in such an old
age, something can happen in any moment. Repair is difficult every time because
it can not be taken out easily. On a long run this was not the case with
outboard motors. Was postponing the issue so far, but it can not be ignored any
longer.
Disadvantages: if it is big and heavy, I can not take it
off and on behind the cabin in heavy seas. The propeller may come out of the
water occasionally (bad for the motor, it can stall), the ocean is soaking the
motor (true, I would keep it in the cabin when not in use).
Advantage: easier to repair, allow taking on and off and
handling.
2008.06.19. (Day 635)
The motorman from Lautoka did
not come at 7 in the morning. Was waiting, but did not come. Talked with Brian
who is the boss of the local repair company, but he charges a lot. My problem
did not seem to interest him.....
I feel I am totally alone and
nobody can or wants to help. The situation is bad –FD6 daily for the marina,
with elctricty use an extra FD3.5.
The days are passing and I
should start sailing.
Sam and another motor mechanic
came at noon to discuss my situation. According to me and others rubber seal
would be necessary at the anchoring bolts. A repair of this kind can not be
made in the ship, furthermore it would be very expensive. Looks like the least
expensive solution is to buy a used outboard motor
which could be applied to the rear of the ship when necessary.
Hitchhiked to Lautoka in the afternoon and talked to Dan
and David, my previous motor mechanics. Could have a
used 9.9 HP Yamaha long shaft motor
for FD550 in the city, 1 hour travel
by car. Dan would come with me to check
it out for free. Still thinking on this offer. Do not really trust them and the
motor is too heavy for me.....
On the radio at evening as usual (5-7 UTC), transmitted
on the HF radio of my new beighbor (Paul, IRONBARK), but heard no Hungarians.
Placed a note on the marina bulletin board – looking for an outboard motor.
Heavy wheather sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IV5llWEEfAw&feature=related
2008.06.20. (Day 636)
Called Denerau
marina in the morning (Import Marine, Mike) and also Marine Power (Nadi, David). They have 2 used motors: for FD2800 – 15 HP long shaft Yamaha; FD2300 –
15 HP short shaft Sails. For me these are too heavy and too expensive!
Visited some of my acquaintances today, they have a farm
nearby next to the highway. So, the detour is insignificant, one of my good
buddies is Jimmy, the cousin. (Everywhere is a connection here).
Then hitchhiked to Lautoka.
At Asco Motors (Yamaha
trader), the new 8 HP Yamaha long shaft
costs FD3000. At Carpenters Motors (www.carpmotors.com.fj) the new 9.8 HP Tohatsu
long shaft is for FD2800.
Was in the fishing harbor too, looking for a motor, found
an 8 HP motor with boat for FD3000. The motor alone is not for sale.
After a short shopping, went back to the marina taking a
bus. Got on the radio at evening (05:20-07:20 UTC) but
heard nobody.
Will leave my original motor in the boat and if I will
have money, time, and opportunity, maybe will have it repaired in Australia.
For this a good shop and one or two good experts are needed, who know what they
are doing.
Cruise ship sinking: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BFux2AAMso
2008.06.21. (Day 637)
The ARC World Rallly arrived here
this time which started out in January, 2008 from Sta. Lucia (Caribbean). 40-50
ships will sail the world around in about 1 year (til March, 2009), this is a
new type of tour
competition. A ship in the harbor (Whitebeard) gave up the race due to a multitude
of technical problems (very expensive). The crew is looking for a job now J.
Talked with Brian, the owner of the local repair shop in
the morning, but he knows not of any 8-9.9 HP used
outboard motor for sale.
Ben, a harbor worker heard of a 9.9 HP Yamaha for FD600 in the Danarau marina, a sailor is trying to
sell it. Waitig for the connection to
him, the motor would interest me.
One of the taxi drivers has an 8 HP Yamaha for sale –
unfortunately it is inoperative, but is cheap....looking
for a good motor because the parts are expensive and the repair requires much
time.
Thinking of ordering a motor from the USA due to the low
prices there and would not have to pay taxes on it. But the shipping would be
time consuming an expensive.
I feel I exhausted all possibilities – Fiji is small and
a survey can be accomplished easily and fast.
Water purchase, cleaning, washing and cooking took up the
morning.
Again listened to 14.290 MHz at
4 UTC – heard somebody with a Morse code. Have no radio contacts as yet.
Talking and drinking with Szim in the evening. Martha is
the name of his ship. It is the third Estonian sail ship circumnavigating the
Earth: www.marthaworldcruise.com
2008.06.22. (Day 638)
Bill Dunlop: a 2.76- meter Wind’sWill sloop’s
unsuccessful try to circumnavigate the Earth must have been an interesting
trip. In 1982, crossed the Atlantic Ocean in 76 days, had
no problem between Panama and the Cook Islands....... then disappeared in the
vicinity of Australia.
Walked to the First Landing Resort in the morning
to watch the World Championship Italy-Spain soccer match. Was not too exciting,
expected something better.
Tried to get on the net – was no net in the marina.
Cleaned out the space around the motor and reconnected all electrical wiring.
Replaced the motor separator walls in their place and arranged the packages on
the coffin beds.
Closed up the exhaust opening along with the fuel
tank – won’t need them for awhile.
Then Meszki and Frank came. Know Frank since November, he is working in the Denerau marina (HELP
YACHTING). Knows a lot of people, may find something for me. Drank some
beer in my ship then went to the Yacht Club for a chat with my buddies.
Was in the ship between 16:30
and 19:30, but heard only some weak garbled signals on the radio (14.290 MHz
USB). The reason: www.spacewheather.com
Biggest wave of the year: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWoKkaWieE4
2008.06.23. (Day 639)
John Riding: crossed the
Atlantic in a 3,66-meter Bermuda sloop. Sailed in the
direction of Plymouth-Azores-Bermuda-Newport, Azores-Bewrmuda in 67 days. Then
crossed the Pcific to New Zealand – everything was OK. Disappeared toward
Australia in the Tasman sea..... (Would be interesting
to write a book on the disappeared sailors.)
An advertisement in the Fiji Times listed a Suzuki 9.9 HP
motor for FD2500; a 15 HP – FD3000 in Lautoka. They are too heavy for me –
44 kg.
Was no net in the marina this morning, but it would be
quite important these days
Applied laquer to the solar panel, insulated some
suspicipous spots on the ship. Purchased items in town in the aftrenoon then
went to Ruben’s for a dinner. The theme was the same – the MOVEMENT J. Evening: film
watching in the Yacht Club.
Unreal wave sailing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOcw1Zw2bAw
2008.06.24. (Day 640)
Garry Spiess: in a 3.05-meter sloop (Yankee Girl) completed the
California-Sidney trip in 105 days. Average: 70 nm per day. His fastest day was
130 nm! – which is a record even today in the T.I.N.Y.
category.
Have to solve the outboard motor suspension somehow, or
make a corrosion-resistant appliance for the motor fastening, or make a cheap
wooden one.
Have not decided which motor will I buy as yet – is a
difficult decision. Of course, will try it first and if works OK, only then
will buy it.
A difficult decision, don’t want to hurry too much with it.
Went to my farmer buddy in the afternoon to losen up a
bit – to talk and to drink coffee.
Got on the radio in the evening (04:30-07:30
UTC) but heard nobody.
Then listened to an Auckland radio station (9.615 MHz, AM) – is interesting to hear what is going on in
the world.
Greatest Boat Crashes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhOV01QkaPU&feature=related
2008.06.25. (Day 641)
Webb Chiles: around the world
in 1978-94 with an 18’9” gunter yawl ship – it was a record those days!
Shan Acton: around the world
in 1972-80 with an 18’4” sloop – completed half the trip with his girlfriend –
that I am even afraid to think of J.
Wrote am e-mail letter to Curley who lives in SavuSavu and is the chief of the local Yacht Service
– possibly he will find me an outboard motor.
Nil, the captain of Koro bought last year an 8 HP Mercury
for FD2000 in Suva, this is quite cheaper than the rest. Of course you can not buy this now for the
same money.
Talked with Peter too who has a ship company here
(delivers and repairs ships), he has a 15 HP motor but it is too heavy and old
for me.
Helped Constantin and girlfriend to find a boat for them
to Vanuatu, then he translated a two-sided extract of my trip to Russian. They
live here for weeks in a house of an Indian and trying to find a ship toward
the West, the big target for them is Asia. Got acquainted with a Czeh sailor
Romana, who is a masseur and will try to put my back in order
J.
2008.06.26. (Day 642)
Talked with Frank in the morning, then called James on
the phone who sells motors, but only his wife was at home.
Walked the whole day the Danarau and Nandi area
(Martintar).
Niranjans, the Suzuki outboard
motor shop: Suzuki 15 HP short shaft (44 kg) for FD2800, has no 8 HP and the 9.9 HP
is also 44 kg – too heavy!
With my aching back, could not handle the too heavy
motors under stormy conditions.
Homemaker: Johnson 8 HP longshaft, FD3800 – expensive!
Court: Yamaha shop, more expensive than Asco.
Nadi has no motor service
selling them.
Placed a note on the marina wall in Danarau and talked with two companies
(Marina Power, Import Marine) without results. The new Mercury 8 HP motor here
costs FD3800, this is the Marin Fiji Mercury agency. Expensive!
Then visited the Carpenter Nandi Division of Asco but
their prices are higher than in Lautoka.
Basically 8-9.8 HP would be
better, they are between 20-30 kg. The 15 HP motors start at 35 kg - too heavy
for me!
Took up connection with a firm: Nadi Plumbing Works
Ltd. Possibly I will commission them to
manufacture the rear motor suspension. This is possible only after the motor
purchase.....
2008.06.27. (Day 643)
Missed today’s game unfortunately because had to relocate
to a different place in the marina. This is my 7th position, they shove me
here-and-there if room is needed for a big ship (this is my smallest problem).
Basically I have two options:
a. problem:
with a small motor (5-6 HP) according to my experience that it has to run at a
high revolution which is not good for the motor on a long trip. In 6 months
some parts can fail;
b. problem:
the large motors (15 HP) are heavy (35-44 kg) and could not carry them out of
the cabin to the rear and back in stormy conditions.
Ideal for me: around 8-9.9
HP, 20-25 kg.
Went to Lautoka looking for motors. Visited the
already known places, read the specifications, but did not get much smarter.
Was together with Ben and Mesz in the evening in
their village (from that alone one could write a book :-).
Even the radioing does not work! On the 60 ships in
the harbor here nobody uses HF radio, maybe just for listening......
Possibly the (http://www.pacsea.org/)
Pacific Seafarer’s Net will work (on 14.300 MHz, 03
UTC), but did not hear them either.
2008.06.28. (Day 644)
Washed the ship in the morning and put things in order,
sealed some spots.
Got a gift, a battery chargher from a sailor. Since am
positioned near the main entrance, everybody stops by, ask questions and take
pictures.
Saturday afternoon in Lautoka, who counts, can be found
on the main road or in the Park opposite to the marina. Met a lot of
acquaintances J. A rugby
game will be today. Something always happens on Saturdays: rugby, bazaar,
soccer......
Met Jimmy, Frank’s nephew who is a motor mechanic and has
2 motors:
Thinking. Will make decision on Monday for sure. The
problem is that buying a used outboard motor is risky.
Who knows what will fall off, sometimes the repair costs more than the purchase
price. In addition, every motor problem is loss of time, the towing is
expensive too.
Dinner: kandu, rice and salad (use rice vinegar these
days). Kandu is a food from India: squash, onion, garlick, curry, chili, salt.
Tohatsu 9.9
HP: 2 cylinders, 9.8 HP (7.2 kW), 169 cubic centimeter
displacement, manual start, fuel 50:1 oil mixture, oil:TCW-3, 27 kg; long shaft, max. rpm range: 5000-6000;
2008.06.29. (Day 645)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i-HtlQa2I0
Am standing next to Martin (Flat Lady), a large motor
yacht. Was consulting with him before noon about the motor issue. Got to buy a
long legged motor, this in not the question.
Got on the net, then cleaned up around the ship and
arranged the packages......
Hitchhiked to Nadi airport in the afternoon because I am
sending a small package home with Gyuri. Was sitting in the back of a small
truck with several women who were teaching me how to make flower ornaments
(i.e. necklaces) Fiji-style J.
Accidentally bumped into Gyuri on the parking lot, it was
nice to be able to speak Hungarian again, the Skype is not the same.
After the short meeting, hitchhiked and walked back to
the marina.
In the evening visited Raven, an English sailing ship and
talked with Peter (Sydney) on the radio; (report: 5-1). In-between they offered
rum-and-coke, for politeness sake, accepted it.
Got invitation to a birthday party in a nearby hotel
named Anchorage. Paul (an old kiwi) had his birthday who is the owner of an
apartment ship in the marina. Previously was mooring next to him.... Everybody was there who ’counted’, who ’live’ or spend
months here, or have businesses around here, therefore live in the
neighborhood.
Talked with a farmer before this, walked together almost
to the hotel because he lives nearby J.
I was the youngest in the party by 15-20 years at least
(more like 30). Free drinks (missed the free dinner), live music and dance til
late night. Served cake too J.
Never celebrated my birthday with a party and never will
– no need to say the reason why.
Talked to everybody in the party since I know everybody,
but did not dance. A few older gentlemen are here who play music, sing together
every Sunday, like today!
Had to leave before 10 becuase had to jump in a bar and
go to a German ship (Artir, Feeling) to deliver a map – and of course to drink
beer.
2008.06.30. (Day 646)
An iron ship arrived yesterday in the harbor and was immediately
craned out. Collided with a reef at high speed and suffered a serious hole in
the keel. The captain plugged up the hole with a wooden block temporarily. In
the morning together with the German sailors (Wolfgang, Szim, Artir....) we were watching the soccer World Championship final,
after which they lost their good mood.
DECISION: NEW MOTOR!
More expensive than the used one. In about 4-5 months it will be cheaper
(after no 3-4 motor repairs, replacement part expenses and wasted time). The
used motor is inherently more risky due to the repair expenses, therefore it
can be more expensive than a new motor!
Some times a bad motor can cause great damage, for instance in
navigating between shoals in strong winds, it can be fatal (the MARTHA case).
Accidentally met with Arvin (Carpenter Motors outboard
engine sales) at 9 in the morning, with whom we went to Lautoka together.
Looking at the motor the whole day and asked idiotic questions. For instance:
the fuel consumption, but nobody could answer.
Alternator (12 V, 80 W) would be FD470, so won’t buy it –
would have limited use only.
They did not find the Service Manual.....
consumption: 4.9 liters/h @ 5500 rpm.
Due to a little bank problem, could pay only FD1800
today, will pay the rest tomorrow.
Could not find the Owner’s Manual either, will be
delivered tomorrow from Suva.....
Was not a successful day , but
bought a motor – which means a new beginning!
Dinner: leftovers from yesterday (use golden smiki these
days, a piquant paprika sauce). Was no radio contact again (14.290 MHz, 07-07 UTC).
Peter is an old solo sailor (on an old iron ship) loaned
a book to me: „500 Days” by Serge Testa (Around the World on a Twelve Foot
Yacht). Reading this book in the evenings these days. It is still the record!
http://www.demnet.org;
http://www.globalance.org
2008.07.01. (Day 647)
An intersting cultural mixture is present here what is
manifested in the food too (curry with chicken kasava), chesa – Fijian-Indian
nasi with the alcohol. The original strongly spiced snack (i. e. bhuja) is very
popular among the people from India and Fiji. Then the roasted fish pieces and
roasted but not so strongly spiced vegetables what they consume with the
alcohol.
Bus to Lautoka in the morning, paid the rest of FD1000.
Then broke-in the motor with the Service Department: 10 minutes at idle speed,
was shown and explained everything. Although these things were not new to me,
but are very important – better to hear them again!
Went with Arvin to All Engineering where talked to the
chief, then went to the boat with an expert. Took measurements of the required
suspension for the motor. Will be made of acid-proof material naturally (the
galvanized version would be cheaper but it would hold for maximum of 6 months
only, in my opinion).
Later Abdul, a ’businessman taxidriver’ has shown me a
nice suspension for FD130, but had a disadvantage: would have to modify it
because the rear end of CARINA is not vertical, the suspension was made for a
vertical configuration.
Peter sent me a nice e-mail from Holland. He has a
similar boat (CARINA) and shared his experiences with me. His is a little
longer with a double keel. He uses it on
IJsselmeer, a large lake in the middle of Holland. In a Bf. 6-7, he reached 6.5 knots with a little surfing – it is possible if the boat
is not overloaded.
'…I
have the feeling this is leading to something more in my life. I don't know
what yet but I learned to listen to my heart and trust on the future…'
2008.07.02. (Day 648)
The news came today that Ukelele collided with the nearby
shoal yesterday. Captain of the boat is Paul, an older Czeh whom we conversed
at length a few days ago. Most likely he has to come back to the marina.
Called All Engineering in the morning for an estimate for
the suspension. Did not know it. (In the afternooon still did not know it –
promised it for tomorrow.....’Fiji times’).
So, we modified the suspension obtained from Abdul.
Several sailors helped out with advices. Among the many suggestions the winner
was: weld 1-1 small extension (95 mm) on a support rod pair (see Gallery).
Price for the two acid-resistant plate welding in place: FD50. The Baboa
company charges a lot here.....was thinking that it
will be free for me: a little welding for a little boat – but did not happen.
Then refurbished the wooden part of the suspension with
polyester and fiberglass.
Evening: film watching in the Yacht Club and got on the
net till the end.....
2008.07.03. (Day 649)
Auto-stop in the morning to Lautoka to buy acid-resistant
bolts, washers, and nuts – FD18.5 – for the motor
suspension, cables for the batteries (FD36), and food (FD20).
Bus strike today, Fiji-style. The Indian owner of the bus
company wanted to increase the bus fares but the government (not an elected
one, result of a political-military coup aided by ’ratu’, the Fiji chief that
is, with the leaders) did not want to agree to this. Here the buses purchase
the fuel 10% cheaper based upon an agreement 4 days before.
The strike here is a political issue, not an economic
one. The political issues here are always the power struggle between Fijians
and Indians and the fight between the political directions.
(In my opinion the social order with the chief system
here is very outdated and is the core problem.
The friction can be felt between the Indian and Fijian
residents. Don’t know what is going on here...
In the Nadi and Lautoka areas Indians were denied of the
land lease extensions since 1987. Therefore practically all leases expired 4
years ago. Lautoka is the ’sugar-city’, but there are no more Indian people
around there, consequently sugar cane disppeared and kasava replaced it...... this means that less businesses and export exist
connected with sugar. Simply stated
there is less money since 1987. The cause is a political one what is expressed
by the Fijians as: „go home”. Even the intelligent Fijians fail to undestand
why an Indian person can be a minister, I have no words for this. Only this:
Would be better to leave.
Installed the suspension with Martin and Jan onto the
rear wall of the ship, then started to laquer the wooden parts.
Drank beer with Jan in the afternoon.
Evening: eat Hungarian ground meat with rice, a lot of
onion and chili. Hungarian-style dinner!
Later baked Appalamt (indian food) into masi.
2008.07.04. (Day 650)
Applied laquer in the morning to the wooden parts of the
suspension, continued it in the afternoon. Want to make it well, would not want
to do it again after 6 months.
Talked with French captain of Matin Bleu before noon. His
ship is an individual-built 48 foot single body ship. Has 2 masts, but has no top sail and stationary ropes.
Invited me to his deck and showed me everything. The picture gallery starts with cutting down
a tree.....and the building took 2-1/2 years. Started
out 3 years ago from France and are sailing the oceans ever since without fixed
plans. Has an extremely elaborate tool assortment; can repair everything on the
ship. Sewed the sails himself, made everything himself on the ship - windows,
mast, metal fixtures, boom......
Afternoon: washing (FD5), purchased water (2ea 15-liters
plus 25 liters), organized the packages. In the evening drank rum with him and
his buddy, then went to the Yacht Club to watch films.
Peace and Love,
CARINA and Áron.
Translated by Paul Lukas