2008.07.05 – 07.20
2008.07.05 (day 639)
Slowly, the Olympic Games are coming. To me Oscar
Pistorius (
Tightened the engine rack’s bolts with Martin in the morning. Waited 24 hours for the silicone to set, so we created a silicone gasket (it isn’t the first time I was employing this method).
Then checked the sails and prepared to hoist them up. Paid the marina dues (3 weeks - 170 FJD)
Made a brief tour of the neighboring islands to break in and test the engine. The break-in takes 10 hours. The first ten minutes was done with the mechanic in attendance, the next 30 minutes at my berth in the marina and the remaining 9 hours during this short trip.
This trip wasn’t very enjoyable, always rained, visibility was poor and the winds were variable. Didn’t use the autopilot because I wanted to feel the steering with the new motor. When hoisting sails and when quartering or halving, I could set and secure the tiller so that I didn’t need to hold it. Later I cooked a fine dinner.
My route (about 15 nm): Vuda Marina – Vunavadra Island – Malamala Island – Malolo Island, Musket Cove, where I had to negotiate three narrow passages. It’s easy during daytime, but it’s important to use accurate maps (4.5 hours of motoring).
WP1 (17-43.3S 177-17.5E), WP2 (17-47.8S 177-13.0E), WP3 (17.47.7S 177-12.2E),
WP4 (17-47.1S 177-10.8E), WP5 (17-46.5S 177-10.8E)…
I could have entered the marina or tie up at a buoy (and pay), but I rather dropped the anchor.
10 m chain + 20 m rope for 13 m depth. This sounds sufficient but I swam down to check and dig the anchor in securely. The anchorage is crowded and the shoals are pretty close too, one doesn’t want to drag anchor in such a place. My depth sounder’s battery got dunked (it was ok when last used two months ago), so a neighboring ship gave me the depth.
Musket Cove is famous for the Fiji Regatta, Auckland-Musket Cove Regatta and the Musket Cove-Port Vila Regatta as well.
http://www.musketcovefiji.com/marina.html
Recommended relevant reading: Migrant Cruising Notes Fiji (Phil Cregeen)
This morning the ARC Round-The-World race took off from here, so there was a big shindig yesterday that I luckily missed. (In the ARC race the ship’s entry fee is 12,000 British Pounds + 76 pounds section fee per each person). Today there was some partying for the tourists that didn’t interest me.
The ship next to me is owned by Pascal, with whom I met in
Dinner: porridgeJ.
2008.07.06 (day 640)
Early morning I said good bye to Pascal and started back to
Vuda Marina the same way I came. A few flying fish and reef sharks were
frolicking. This morning the weather was fine, it didn’t rain and the sun was
shining! Arrived at
Recorded data (RPM – speed)
2000: 3 knots, 2500: 3.5-3.8 kts, 3000: 4-4.4 kts, 4000: over 5 kts.
The propeller is down fairly deep, should run it a little harder (2500 or over) with short waves so that it doesn’t emerge from the water.
Started charging the batteries, getting fresh water, cleaning and washing down the deck. I met Claus Werner, a Swiss publisher who’s interested in my history because he also is sailing. He thought I should write a book. J
Afternoon: taking pictures with Wolfgang. He has a
traditional camera, the kind they’ve been using for a 100 years. We had some
beers and talked, mainly about photography. He took 75 pictures in the
So long Moci!
2008.07.07 (day 641)
Sailors have numerous ways to make money. There is a woman in the Marina who cuts the sailors’ hair and has 2–3 customers daily during the main season.
Buying fuel early morning in the marina: 12 liters 26 FJD.
Morning: the last good byes from everybody: Morua, Ben, Ana, Jerry, George, Nil, Martin…Departing with engine running. It took 1.5 hours to Lautoka fishing harbor.
My route:
WP1 (17-37.8S 177-23.0E) –
The fishermen usually like CARINA and help me too. The same thing happened again. I tied up next to a fisherman who was very helpful and nice. We also knew some of the same people in SavuSavu. Later he gave me his WPs in the Malolo passage, so I’ll be using these tomorrow:
WP1 (17-36.6S 177-25.9E), WP2 (17-36.3S 177-24.2E), WP3 (17-35.5S 177-21.2E)
WP4 (17-35.4S 177-20.2E), WP5 (17-35.5S 177-19.7E), WP6 (17-34.2S 177-17.9E)
WP7 (17-30.6S 177-13.5E), WP8 (17-25.8S 177-01.9E) (I had to round this point from the North because the seas would’ve been higher due to the deep reef), WP9 (17-23.2S 176-55.3E).
This is 33 nm from Lautoka, so I’ll be exiting the passage at dusk.
(They told me of a good, sheltered anchorage in case of emergency: 17-27.2S 177-02.9E)
The mechanic should’ve come to change the transmission oil
at
Afterwards went to take care of
the checkout formalities. Free but time consuming. The officials knew me well
so we had a chat. They told me about a 9.5 foot sailboat, La Joca that recently
arrived in SavuSavu from
Went to town for shopping: wristwatch 9.5 FJD, noodles, milk crackers, canned food, vegetables…
There was a bazaar in the park, where I ate BBQ, then returned to the fishing harbor. A full day with lots of running around.
Finally I went to say good bye to
Ruben, where I had a last, delicious supper. Afterwards drank kava with Alfonso
(the last kava in
At
After the bazaar, danced at the local disco, where I met many acquaintances: Philippe (Vuda Marina mixer), Marika, his wife; Juan…
There was a pretty good shindig
for a Monday at the Cave; even the oldest son of the Vissesi Ratu participated.
After his father, in 10-20 years, he’ll be the most powerful chief in
2008.07.08 (day 642)
Departed at
Destination: Port
Temp.: 29C
Barometer: 1022
Wind: Bf.6 ESE and the sea is moderate.
Motored for 30 minutes, then galloped 4.5-5 knots with a standard jib.
Breakfast: scrambled eggs and chewed on sugarcane.
Pleasant sailing all day with little ship traffic (saw two larger ships only). Passing the last shoal still in daylight and the open sea is before me. The wind and waves have diminished slightly. Taking advantage of this: I stowed the outboard in the cabin with some difficulty.
Secured the solar panel in its place. Have to adjust the autopilot setting because the rudder tightens on every small setting change, so I have plenty to do.
Radioed today, but heard no one. No communications for the time being.
Changed to storm jib after
2008.07.09 (day
643)
Temp.: 28°
Barometer: 1022
Spd.: 3-4 knots, dir 260°
Raced along all night with the storm jib set in Bf.6-7 winds. Frequently got up to check on everything. The good thing is that the wind-generator is charging the batteries!!
The gas ran out while cooking breakfast, but can’t change the bottle for the time being, the rear cabin would get full of water if I opened the doors. The autopilot can’t handle strong winds, its limit is Bf.7.
My back is aching because my bunk is now smaller than usual, and I’m rolling back and forth in the ship while resting during heavier poundings.
Tried to replace the gas bottle around
P.M.: adjusted the wind generator, reading, the MP3 player battery ran down.
The wind is strengthening, the waves regularly spill into the cockpit. Minimum Bf.7 with frightening wavefronts coming and going. I’ll have to get used to it again, which I generally manage fairly fast.
After
The waves keep increasing, minimum 7 meters, sometimes break, sometimes breaking around my ship. Huge whitecaps, haven’t seen them like this for quite a while…
Water is constantly entering the cabin because the door doesn’t close tightly. Everything is wet, sleeping bag, bunk ’n allJ.
Heard Árpi from
2008.07.10 (day
644)
Temp: 29
Barometer: 1021
Wind Bf.7 (could be reaching 30 knots sometimes), direction varies between 100-120°
(When the wind direction changes so does the direction of the waves)
Course 270
Spd.: 3-4 kts
Continued strong winds, in the morning “only” Bf.7. Using the storm jib only (1 m²), the standard jib would be too much.
Using ointments for my back-ache:
1. Getup (ingredients: Akda, Symiocos Racemosa, Trigonella Paplionatae; Pluchcalanccolata, Indica, Pistacia Letiscus, Calotropis Porcera, Brassica Campestris)
2. Moov (ingredients: Wintergreen oil, Menthol, Tarpin oil, Eucalyptus oil)
Lunch: Canned food and biscuits without cooking.
P.M. siesta, resting and reading the Bible.
Later the wind diminishes to Bf.6, so hoisted the standard jib and started sailing extra fast while steering constantly. After a few hours it’s Bf.7 again.
Must swap the jibs, there is too much pressure and hard to steer the ship.
I am in a bad mood because of the broken solar panel, so I didn’t even fish. The other reason: there is no gas and fish tastes better when fried….
Pali N6DMV,
At
2008.07.11 (day 645)
Today
is the birthday of my Godfather. My Godparents helped and are helping me with
many things, thank you for everything!
Used the storm jib almost all day. The wind is Bf.7, sometimes if feels like reaching Bf.8.
Showers come and go in the morning and I am getting soaked and soaked more. Besides, the waves constantly spill into my large and open cockpit that is just too large for sea.
The cabin door is always closed but I do move in and out and then a little water gets into the cabin. A greater problem is that the plexiglass door doesn’t close perfectly and when the cockpit gets half full of water then it leaks into the cabin through the gaps. So I have to bail sometimes.
Hoisted the standard jib for an hour in the afternoon but the wind has increased and replaced it with the storm jib again. The waves are increasing again!!
The Ocean is alive, seagulls, albatrosses and many other kinds of birds flying around me. I see a lot of flying fish around too. I did find one or two on deck sometimes alas only smaller ones, not “breakfast” sizes. I haven’t seen mahi-mahi yet. A dark shadow swimming underwater sometimes, I don’t know what kind of fish that could be.
At
I asked if they had info about the area forecast but they had nothing fresh. They too are sailing to Port Vila. I asked them to take a picture of me. CARINA surfing in Bf.7 with a storm jib, it would be a nice picture, (unfortunately we didn’t meet in Port Vila).
Radio: Pali, N6DMV,
Hungarian style dinner, canned layered cabbage with onions and biscuits.
The knob of the main switch on the Garmin 60 GPS broke off. I can switch it on and off with a pin. This one is about 1.5 years old, a more expensive, handheld GPS, but its quality is not the best. For example: the glued-on antenna keeps falling off. This is not a complaint, only constructive criticism to the company in case they read meder.hu.
2008.07.12 (day 646)
The sleep at night is like being in a food mixer. Have to get used to it again.
I’m not and have not been seasick. 80% of seasickness is psychological so it is generally manageable.
Temp: 29
Barometer: 1022
Wind: Bf.6-7 (have no anemometer), from 100-120°
Spd.: 3-4 knots, cse. 270 with a storm jib.
Breakfast: biscuits and yogurt.
Bailed 4 large bucketsful of water out of the midsection with my coffee cup. I like multifunctional objects. That much has accumulated in 4 days.
Steering a lot during morning and afternoon because the batteries are low, furthermore the autopilot isn’t holding a steady course in strong winds, therefore keeps correcting constantly.
My hands are full of wounds. I touched the fast spinning blades of the wind generator when spraying it with silicone spray. Also cut it by the broken solar panel a few days ago. In other words my wounds are accumulating
Lunch: canned lamb, biscuits and chili.
Afternoon the wind weakened to Bf.5, so using the standard jib again. Sailing with a fast 5 knots and steering several hours. Suddenly, bumped into a large object. My first thought was a whale, but after the second bump saw it was a large tree trunk. (Later checked the hull in Port Vila).
Dinner: Instant noodles, canned beef, biscuits, onion and chili.
At night with stronger winds, hoisted the storm jib.
2008.07.13 (day 647)
Temp: 30
Barometer: 1022
Wind: Bf.6 from 120° (Cloudy and large waves)
Swapped gas bottles in the morning. Not while running, but surfed the ship to move along with the following waves so they didn’t spill into the cockpit.
Breakfast: yogurt, biscuits.
Lunch: cooked noodles, finally some warm food!
Afternoon after
My speed is 4 knots but my course varies considerably with CARINA being tossed by the waves.
Sailing 4-5 knots but when a wave suddenly goes out from under her she drops to 2 knots.
A better case is when surfing on top of the waves, like sailing together with the following sea. The best moment is when a whitecap breaks just at CARINA’s stern and then she’s gushing down along with it in a sizzling white flood. This is a mere 2-3 second gallop, together with the wave, the ship speeds up to 6-7-8 knots, I’m unable to move the tiller, can only hold it straight from the moment we start downhill, even the sail flops at these times. We slow to 2-3 knots in the trough, and sometimes the ship stands still. The following waves are generally smaller, but another big one is usually due after 2-3 smaller ones. The waves break, either sooner or later. CARINA is rarely timed exactly with the breaking of a whitecap.
Afternoon: checking the rigging.
18:00LT 14.290 MHz radio: Pali, N6DMV,
(I also heard from Pali that I received some help from my Grandfather, which brought my (outboard motor depleted) account back into the black. Thanks Tata!)
Galloping with the storm jib all night in Bf.7-8. The autopilot has a hard time keeping course at times.
I hallucinate at night because I’m tired (frequent checks around the ship and traffic at night, being alone, and, perhaps because of my own general disposition). This was expected and I had experienced it, so it’s no big deal.
2008.07.14 (day 648)
Temp. generally: morning 25,
Barometer: 1022
Wind: Bf.7 from 110°
Got up with the sun, at
(40nm made good during the past 24 hours with the autopilot). Tied the broken solar panel frame to the side of the ship to make room for tomorrow when mounting the outboard motor.
Lunch: noodles.
Afternoon: hoisted mainsail, reefed
and adjusted reef ties, because if I can’t mount the outboard tomorrow I’ll
need the mainsail as well as the jib. Will have to make 78 course changes in
Saw a sailboat this afternoon, called her on VHF ch.16.but didn’t answer.
There are many sailboats in this area during these months.
After
2008.07.15 (day 649)
Sighted the island at
Sailed with a storm jib on course 280° making 3-4 knots and I didn’t hurry. Every half-hour dark clouds came with rain and stronger winds but they only lasted 10-20 minutes. Visibility is very poor then. The island is flat and there is hardly any lighthouse, so it’s better to keep the distance from shore.
Breakfast is coffee, then meditated as usual.
My motor is in the cabin and I don’t yet know how I’m going to mount it in large waves (the ship is pitching and rolling). HARD DUTY! …. my back is aching on top of it …
Sliding the ship so the waves don’t slosh in, rather she’s
moving along with the waves. Then mounted and secured the outboard. I’ll be sailing
into
The waves are smaller here, should’ve mounted the motor here. J Motored during the last 4 nm because of headwinds and ship traffic.
Jan waived from the ship Altair J
and invited me to tie up to his boat, so I didn’t drop the anchor but tied to
her with 2-3 lines and bumpers. Offered me a cold
Customs came. Simon is very kind, takes a group picture on CARINA. He wants 3000 Vatus but when I told him I’m having some financial difficulties, he cancelled the charges.
Went to the Immigration Office with Jan and Berndt, where the fee is 4000 Vatus and you can’t negotiate. I spoke with the lady office manager, then pulled in to the pier to charge batteries.
Expensive, 1400 Vatus/day but there’s nothing one can do.
The Quarantine also came to the ship that cost 3000 Vatus. This – in most places – is usually free or very cheap!
Drank coffee with the Quarantine official, Tambe in the evening in a café. These are gardens where they mix kava and make a few simple foods: sausages, fish, kasava, dalo. A cup of kava cost 100 Vatus, the standard price here. Thank you or tumas! I’ve met Tambe’s wife and friends, Dalon, Bong…it was a pleasant evening.
Capital: Port
Population: 200,000; Time Zone: GMT+11; Area: 12,336 km²: 83 islands;
Money: 100 Vatu = 0.084 USD
Language: Bislama, English, French and about 106 Melanesian dialects.
The 83 island belong to 6 provinces. The old
Main sights:
Divers
History:
The first people arrived on these islands in 1500 BC from
the
Polynesians came from the Pacific Oceans during the 11th - 15th centuries AD
First European: in May 1606 Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, Spanish sailor arrived.
James Cook: arrived here
He drew the first charts.
William Blight (Bounty) sailed by in 1779, returned 3 years later and discovered a few islands.
Missionaries:
In 1839 the Rev. John Williams arrived in Erromango. They killed and ate him.
Later teachers were sent from
Of course many were killed and malaria took some as well.
In 1848 the Reverend John Geddie arrived in Aneityum (Presbiterian).
In 1860 arrived the Church of England missionaries. In 1887 the Catholic missionaries came.
European settlers:
In 1844 the first trading post was established in Aneityum. Ten years later the first settler arrived.
In 1906 the Anglo-French New Hebrides Condominium was established.
The British and French nations had equal rights,
there was dual administration in the
Two educational systems, two different police, two kinds of money.
World War II
In 1942 the Japanese reached the
They built bases:
In 1945, at the end of the war the
From 1960 land ownership became the main political issue. (30% belonged to the settlers).
The movement was called Nagriamel, its leader was Jimmy Stevens.
Later, in addition to Santo, other, northern islands joined the movement.
In 1971 the New Hebrides Party’s (Vanua’aku Party) leader was Walter Lini.
In Nov. 1979: the first free elections were held, the National Party won.
Independent country (from
Main exports: dried coco, beef, kava (they use 500 tons of kava roots in one year!!)
About 60,000 tourists arrive yearly from
They spend and average of one week here.
Bislama language:
Szia! (modern Hungarian greeting, used as Hi as well as see ya /tr) – Halo!
Szia! (to two people) – Halo tufala
Szia! (to three people) – Halo trifala
Szia! (to more than three people) – Halo olgeta
Good morning! – Gud morning!
Good day! – Gud aftenun!
Good evening! – Gud naet!
How are you? – Olsem wanem?
Thank you – Tangkiu tumas.
Do you speak English? – Yu save tok tok long inglis?
Sorry, but I speak little Bislama – Sore, be mi no save tumas Bislama yet.
What’s your name? – Wanem nem blong yu?
My name is…- Nem blong me….
I came from
Marriage: a young man cannot marry until he builds a house for his wife.
Earlier they had to pay 100 piglets for a wife. Nowadays they have to pay a maximum of 80,000 Vatus – Bridge price. Furthermore the mother in law must be paid 20,000 Vatus, because she lost a worker. More and more people move from the cities back to the villages.
Life in the country: The wife spends 10 hours daily in the garden, while the husband goes fishing, hunting, building a boat or does other work. The wife makes dinner while the husband is talking and drinking kava at the nakamal (men’s clubhouse). Living in the villages is cheap though you can’t find any work there (growing vegetables, hunting wild pigs in the forest).
Furthermore: there’s no crime in the villages!
Here also, like on other Pacific islands, the tambu has an
important role. Tambu controls life in Kastom villages. These are the
traditional ceremonies. I found it interesting, that women are not supposed to
stand higher than men. During childbirth and their periods, women live
segregated in a special place. Chief can only be a man. His word is the law in
the village, just like in
2008.07.16 (day 650)
In the morning I was busy around the ship. Pumped the water out of the bottom also from two other compartments.
Put together an emergency pack for the future, in case I have to abandon ship (like when sinking), then I’ll put this into the life raft. Contents: EPIRB, fishing gear, etc.
Walked about town: main street, marketplace, cathedral, lookout tower, Yachting World…A Hungarian girl, Zsuzsanna spoke to me in the marketplace, I was just having some local food for 200 Vatus.
She’s crew in a sailboat that will depart tomorrow or the
day after for
Bought a pair of battery cables with
terminals (4,300 Vatus) because I have another 120 Ah battery, which I bought
in
Furthermore bought a small wooden “kali” statue, that represents God here. This isn’t real God, rather symbolizes Nature, Power and the Chief.
Hitchhiked back to CARINA (I have no dinghy and she’s anchored), so as usual, got acquainted with several people who invited me to shindig.
Afternoon repaired the radar reflector’s suspension. It has
been on the top of the mast since
Evening: went with Jan and Berndt to watch some traditional
Dangers in
1. the water is full of bacteria, viruses and everything else.
2. Typhus, Cholera (nowadays not so significant)
3. be careful eating food from street vendors
4. poisonous
vegetables that have to be thoroughly cooked before eating (Similar ones in
5. poisonous reef fishes
6. Malaria
7. here also: open wounds get infected easily
8. poisonous sea snakes, Lion Fish, Turkey Fish, a few reef clams
9. crocodiles (in 1998, near
2008.07.17 (day 651)
http://www.yachtingworld-vanuatu.com
http://www.vanuatutourism.com/
Early morning dove into the water to check the hull. On the previous leg I collided with a large tree trunk at 5-knot speed, but it left no mark on the ship.
Motored into the marina (later Altair did as well). I have no solar panel and my batteries are down so I’ll need a few days in the harbor. Unfortunately an electrical connection has current limiting so the charging is slow.
Morning: I walked through town. Walking a lot is important during port stays. Got acquainted with people and local customs.
Shopping canned food and vegetables for 1,900 Vatus.
Lunch at the marketplace: cooked bananas with fried fish
Visited the
They’ll also turn up during large, community village dances
and ceremonies. I think there are at least 100 basic kinds of masks in
Furthermore sand drawing is one of the most unique parts of the local arts.
The sand-drawing’s traditional motives tell different tales. They do it on holidays and during ceremonies.
Evening: I met many sailors. A 72 year old Austrian sailor, who’s been sailing on the Oceans for 25 years as a lifestyle sang to me in Hungarian, that I enjoyed very much…”az a szép az a szép akinek a szeme kék”… (the one with blue eyes is beautiful/tr)
Berndt invited Jan and me for dinner at the Waterfront restaurant that lasted until 10.
Tusker, the local beer didn’t taste too good to us, but this being Berndt’s last night here we had to drink.
Every year the Vanuatu Cruising Yacht Club organizes a few hour-long regatta in the bay. Unfortunately it was in June so I missed it.
2008.07.18 (day 652)
The Blue Water Rally should arrive here next weekend, that too is a
Round-the World race like the ARC, but it starts from
Went to one of the town’s parks in the morning where WIFI was free but slow.
Purchased bottled water and simsam
war-mask. The artist was Ken Silas from
This type of men’s mask represents defense, luck during struggles. I really need one.
Chores around the ship:
1. autopilot connector repair
2. purchasing water
3. cleanup
Lunch at the marketplace: benjok (karasava) with fried fish (200 Vatus)
Afternoon: went to the Vanuatu Daily Post offices (www.dailypost.vu), where the editor, Kiri Manasa was waiting for me. Gave a report about the ship, my voyage and thoughts to Jane Joshua.
A few local buddies also visited me, i.e. Kenny.
A Hungarian, Miklós also came to CARINA. We dined together in town then had a beer. He later showed me the house and room he lived in.
2008.07.19 (day 653)
The “Sail Past” regatta will be held here on Independence Day, July 30th, organized by the Vanuatu Cruising Yacht Club. All ships in the harbor will be decorated with flags that day.
Worked around the ship in the morning, buying water, putting things away, sorting maps, etc.
Unfortunately my camera doesn’t work, for some reason its indicator keeps turning dark. It’s possible, that there will be no more pictures of my voyage.
Early afternoon saw Miklós again.
Kenny came after
Really enjoyed the service with many beautiful songs (
Briefly: everybody keeps spitting from the strong kava, everybody is slow and speak softly in the darkness outside on the terrace – there are no lights outside.
Bused back to town with Kenny. Met an American couple in the park; that I first met in June 2007 in Galapagos at the Immigration Office. They remembered CARINA and me. They are involved with an American Catholic community and are distributing free Bibles and other catholic literature in the small islands. A very nice thing to do!
I was invited to a great party in the large, three masted
“pirate” ship. She’s anchored at the end of the bay,
somebody gave me a free ride. Arrived around
Again ran into Kenny and his friends, where a smaller church
was holding 2-3 hour long musical services. I didn’t feel like watching a rugby
match at the Vanuatu Cruising Yacht Club with the neighboring sailors, nor to
go to a noisy nightclub or dance and the like. Rather I went with Tick, Kem,
Kathy and Johanna and many others to a local kava bar, where there are some
women (but still 90% men). Saw no tourists however. Returned
to the ship at
2008.07.20 (day
654)
Morning: I walked to the free WIFI place where I surfed an hour. Then shopping and breakfast in the ship. (Baguettes and ship-kefir)
Around
A few schoolboys visited CARINA, they’re selling newspapers around the marina. We had lunch together. I made beef goulash with baguettes, good ’n hot Hungarian style. They could hardly eat it of course.
Many are worried about the locals because there are thefts now and then, but I don’t see it that way.
Planning my voyage:
Miklós came over again today.
Many locals come by to look at CARINA. They usually just sit
across the pier, sometimes asking questions but mainly just sitting around.
Patrick, Benjamin and many others came and we talked about the ship, sailing
and about life in
There’s a very special handshake in
Went to Le Rendez Vous restaurant in the evening, drank beer with the Hungarians. They’ll visit me tomorrow.
Around