Torres
Strait, Thursday Is. – Darwin,
2008.08.30 – 09.12
(translated by Laszlo, AA7UY)
2008.08.30 (day 685). New Moon
1017 mbars, 32°, Bf.4-5-3 SE
Steering 270° making 3-4-5-6 knots as the current changes.
But as I leave the islands, the wind weakens, so took the reef out, using full sails.
Breakfast: pork cuts, biscuit, onions.
Today I saw a large turtle several times around the ship again.
Put away the anchor and did some rope work, putting things in order in a ship never ends J
Passed Bobby Is. around
Success! CARINA sailed through
The ship traffic is increasing, saw 4 containerships within 2-3 miles of the ship. The reason: there are several shipping lanes in the vicinity.
Reading the Torres News in the afternoon, that also can be reached via the net: www.torresnews.com.au
No radioing today, I emailed my radio
amateur friends, uncertain because of
The wind weakens further, now only Bf.2-3.
ARC:
The
ARC happened a week before on
There are those who plan to continue Round-the-World
in the 2010 ARC. The yachts from
My book for today: Reflex, by Dick Francis.
18:50LT POS(10-32.6S; 141-30.8E)
Using the AUS 2321 map nowadays.
Sailed by Proudfoot Shoal in the evening. I must still be careful!!
Birds
landed on the ship again.
Dinner: noodles, canned chicken and chocolate for dessert.
At night: Bf.5 then strong 5, so reefed the
mainsail to 2/3. Steering 260°, making 3.5knots. 270° would be unstable,
the wind is fully from the
rear.
The wind
generator charges sometimes, but the batteries are
weak, so using candles for
lighting at night.
At 10 p.m. the jib was
torn, the material fatigued, the tear is along
the seam.
Used PannonSail’s jib all across
the Pacific Ocean and it
got torn for the first
time. They must be using good material,
because neither I nor the wind
were sparing it J
Hoisted the strom
jib instead. Course 280°, spd. 3 knots.
Trying to distance
the shipping lanes that are shown on the map. Passed Carpentaria Lighthouse at
At night sighted
several ships in the distance, frequently got up to check the traffic, but
otherwise a calm night.
2008.08.31 (day 696).
The bird flew off at
dawn, but left me a little
souvenir on deck that I had to clean
up.
1018 mbars,
29°, Bf.4E, sailing @ 3-4 knots on cse.
270°. Cloudy.
Morning: changed the storm jib
to the one
István Dénes sent me, using it for
the first time. It’s smaller
than the PannonSail jib, but very strong
material.
Took the reef out of the mainsail, now making 4 knots on 270°.
Breakfast: last night’s leftovers, apple and multivitamin.
Wearing today the Quarantine polo shirt
Joseph gave me J
Lunch: spaghetti
(ribbed cornflour pasta tubes from Biopont) with chicken in tomato sauce.
Dessert: biscuit.
Afternoon: four fishing
boats approaching from ahead, altered my course 30-40°. They are towing nets
and are slow.
16 LT (06 UTC) radio: 14.290 MHz POS(10-27S; 140-25E), 210nm to
Wind is weakening: Bf.1, E, making 2 knots on 270°.
Several ships passed by me. They’re sailing toward Torres.
Dinner: lunch leftovers.
Birds
are landing again on CARINA, so I’m not so lonely.
At night: overslept, missed the
2008.09.01 (day 697).
I left
1017 mbars, 27° in the morning, BF.5 E, poor visibility in rain, making 3-4 knots on 270°.
Breakfast: scrambled eggs with onions.
Morning: hoisted mainsail to 2/3, later fully.
Steering as usual then reading a little.
Today’s books: The Aviator by Ernest K. Gann, Australian Hungarian Yearbook 1996.
Lunch: noodles, tuna fish, onions – cheap and simple.
P.m.: drying- and cleaning out the portside compartment, first time since the big keel-over.
Barometer is falling: 1013, cloudy skies all day, making 3-4 knots on 270°.
Wind weakening to Bf.2-3.
16LT (06UTC) 14.290 MHz radio: I can hear a
few hams from
POS(10-35S; 139-11E) 73nm made good past 24h.
17LT trying the radio again to no avail.
Dinner: biscuit, butter, liver patè, onions and the last of the peppers.
Winds are significantly weaker on the
My
favorite bird came again to sleep in the ship tonight.
Australian entry rules:
1. must have tourist visa before entering.
2. must fax a filled out form-paper to the Authorities minimum 4 days before arrival..
3. one day, or from 100 miles distance before arrival, must send an e-mail to the Authorities that contains the ship’s and passengers’ data.
4. in general, most
countries confiscate fresh vegetables, fruits, eggs, meat. Here they confiscate
almost everything. The rules are known to be looser on
2008.09.02. (day 698).
1019 mbars, 28°, Bf,3 from 90°, making 4 knots on 260°
Put away a few
Morning: reefed the main sail to 2/3 for the strengthening winds.
Lunch: fish and rice - while fishing, it’d be nice to have fresh fish again.
The sun finally came out in the afternoon.
A bird slept on the stern last night and messed it up again. Afternoon: a large ship passed me.
16LT 14.290 MHz radio: Probably heard Freddy very weakly. Read my position in the blind in case somebody hears me. No contact today either.
Image
the reality of radio schedules basically as: I hear a strong noise and in it
there sometimes are additional, weaker noises that I know, are the amateur’s
calls, and trying to understand them, of which I occasionally pinch out
‘something’, usually the numbers of the weather forecast. Often I can
understand only either the direction or the wind speed.
And of the data covering several days only one or just a half. (similar on the other end/tr)
POS(10-36S; 137-41E) 88nm made good past 24 hours.
No radio contact at 17LT.
Making 3 knots on 270° in the evening, wind Bf.3-4/120°
My back is aching again perhaps I should improve my bunk.
Dinner: meatballs and rice in tomato sauce, dessert: pear and apple.
23:30LT(
I must get used to getting up at night to radio.
Passed by
2008.09.03 (day 699).
1019 mbars. 28°, Bf.2-3E, sea calm.
All dawns are wonderful.
Breakfast: scrambled eggs with onions, biscuit, cocoa and multivitamin.
Sailing by
Let the main sail out completely at
Trying to fish again but the present Bf.2 and small seas are not favorable to fishing. They bite better when it’s windier and choppier.
Lunch: baked some cookies (recipe: use whatever is available in the ship), also made instant soup.
Meanwhile my fishing line broke. Big fish? Perhaps. That put me in a bad mood and gave up fishing for the time being – I have no more damil and hooks J
Afternoon: general cleanup around the port side coffin bunk, I keep foods, also thrash here and it’s important to regularly sort them out.
Today’s book: Deadeye by Sam Llewellyn.
16 LT: 14.290 MHz radio: POS(10-37S; 136-30E). Only 70nm made good past 24 hours because the wind was very weak last night.
Sailing on course 280° making 4 knots. A customs airplane flew directly over me, then turned around. Then I turned on my VHF radio. The Coast Watch called me on channel 16. They knew who I was because they called CARINA S/V J
We switched to ch.
72 and they asked the usual questions:
17 LT heard Feri,
HA3MQ and he heard me as well. He was my first radio contact since the
Late afternoon a large Coast Guard cutter came up behind me and we talked on VHF ch.16. The very same questions and answers. They keep a close watch on ships around here.
Dinner: noodles, canned fish; onions.
Evening: a ship passed about 2 miles on my
port side. Getting close to
The shipping lane is near 10-49S and I’m keeping to 10-37S latitude.
POS(10-36S; 136-03E)
3-4 knots on course 270°. 27nm made good since
2008.09.04 (day 700).
1017 mbars, 28°
in the morning and 32-33° at
The trades are weak here because of the
Australian continent, this effect lasts until
Breakfast: cocoa, multivitamin.
Morning: steering. I can only steer by hand when the wind is dead astern,
the autopilot is unable to butterfly J
The sea was turquoise-green color after the
The surface of the ocean is full of plankton, they say it’s tastier than caviar. Easy to collect with a plankton net, alas I don’t have one.
Breakfast: canned pork, biscuit, onions.
Cleaned my spear gun in the morning.
I’m trying not to make much speed because if I arrive during the weekend the ‘check-in’ costs extra. Basically this is true in every country, if a yacht arrives on a weekend it has to pay extra to cover the officials’ overtime.
Lunch: griddlecake.
Afternoon: sewing my shorts, drying out the sleeping bag and my wet clothes. These got wet during the big keel-over before Torres.
P.m.: another Custom’s plane flies over me, the watch is continuous!! Am I more secure? I don’t know, but they are keeping a close watch for sure. Am I suspicious? Everybody is here…
Hand steering in the afternoon too because a large, 1 meter ray is following my ship and plankton is all around, just like during the last few days. Then a few small dolphins swim across the stern but they pay no attention to me. That’s what the ocean is like around here…
Dinner: canned chicken with noodles.
Lost a plastic dish while dish washing, alas this happens from time to time.
1012 mbars, Bf.3, course 270, 3-4 knots.
Forecast 15 knot SE winds that can at times be 20.
POS(10-42S, 134-45E), 77nm made good past 24 hours.
2008.09.05 (day 701).
1017 mbars,
29° in the morning and 35° at
Made pancakes for breakfast, they’re similar to roti. Made part of them churry like. Today’s extra: also made a few from tavioca flour. Tavioca is a staple food in the South Pacific islands, a type of root they very rarely make flour of. I was able to obtain some for my ship, it is very special J
The wind gradually decreases to Bf.1-2, so
making 1-2 knots on cse.
Plankton all around again today.
Dinner: noodles, canned fish.
The wind died out by afternoon. It’s better
than a storm. Of course it reminds me of my 40 day trip between
Here the situation is better because the following current is carrying me forward..
The wind forecast is 15 knots ESE, then weakening and variable.
POS(10-37S; 133-45E), 50nm made good past 24 hours.
My red navigation light is out.
2008.09.06 (day 702).
1015 mbars,
28° in the morning, 33° at
Breakfast: fried eggs with onions. Biscuit, cocoa, vitamin.
Today’s book: Twister, a novel about nature’s most destructive force, by Jack M. Bickham.
Better than a movie.
Plankton all around again today.
Steering in the morning, hot sun, sultry air, hardly any wind.
Dinner: noodles, canned beans, fried pork patties (Bipoint), onions.
Afternoon: checked the tides for Darwin and Van Diemen bay on the computer in Maxsea. I have no detailed paper map of this area.
Late afternoon using candles for light in the cabin. I’m old fashioned and do like candles, also my batteries are weak.
Nearing the coast – I don’t like it…ship traffic is heavier and the wind is weaker here (effects of the Australian continent).
At
The battery voltage is under 12, this is not normal, there must be a problem in my electrical system.
2008.09.07 (day 703). Half moon.
The currents are usually weaker here after
half moon. This isn’t true everywhere, i.e.: in
1014 mbars, 30-35° (peaked at 40°!), Bf.1 E, 260°, 1-2 knots.
Breakfast: liver patè, cocoa and vitamin.
Wind weak all day, even dies out at times, the sea is almost mirror. Very hot sunshine. Wearing hat, polo shirt and sunscreen – that way bearable.
Basically I’m tired and have a backache because of lack of exercise and a hard bunk.
The birds are very friendly and brave here, they’re not afraid of humans and let me come quite close, which for me is an adventure, especially in my situation…
Wind direction changes to 170° in the
afternoon and I’m steering 240°. Motored for an hour early afternoon, because
the wind has died out hours ago and I want to approach
Then comes a light breeze, up with the sail again, making 1 knot on 260°.
Dolphins came and escorted me in the afternoon for a while, they’re playing and I’m watching them. I’d like them to tow me a little, alas our communications are rather elementary for the time being, perhaps later, if we could develop that…
Trying to repair the red navigation light,
but irreparable, the metal has corroded completely away. Later in
Passed the
My planned route:
WP01 (11-03.4S; 131-47.8E)
Afterwards must watch out for Giles Shoal in the middle of the bay.
WP02 (11-49.6S; 131-31.9E)
WP03 (12-04.4S; 131-11.2E), this is by Roper Rock before the Howard channel
Howard channel:
WP04 (12-05.2S; 131-05.8E)
WP05 (12-04.6S; 131-01.6E)
WP06 (12-04.6S; 130-55.8E)
From there 21nm to
WP07 (12-20S; 130-45E)
WP08 (12-26.9S; 130-47.5E)
Search for the marinas from there…
The
current starts moving inwards from
POS(11-27S; 131-42E), 80nm made good past 24 hours. There are many North African amateurs on the band today, but we heard each other well regardless.
After
Keeping continuous watch. Caught 20 minute naps between
2008.09.08 (day 704).
1015 mbars,
28° in the morning, 38° at
The Coast Guard vessel passes near by, then a few Navy ships. Feels like being in a war. Finally I spot a small civilian motorboat too!
Afternoon: Bf.1-2.
14:00 POS(12-02.7S; 131-13.1E)
Past the channel hoisted sails again.
Checking water supply: 35 liters used since PNG.
Arrived at the harbor entrance at
Motored coastal slowly, making 1-2 knots and tried to interpret the lights and find the masts.
The Coast Guard told me the way to
POS(12-28.6S; 130-51.1E)
Anchored at
Arrival didn’t go easy – as usual – I had an expired, 25 years old map that did not show the marina and the anchorage. In other words, I was searching for the anchorage for 3 hours, almost deciding to stay with the ships of the Navy, because those I could find J Tidal currents are strong in the harbor because of the 5 meter difference between ebbing and flood tide!
Then, at
When the wind is weak at slack tide, the yachts are facing every which way, therefore must leave greater distance than usual.
2008.09.09 (day 705).
The frigate bird (hurricane bird) generally leaves the coast to 90-100 miles.
The captain of Africo
(
The customs boat stopped by to ask what’s going on…
Morning chores around the ship:
Packed up the garbage, dried out and
cleaned the port forward and middle compartments. This is my first chance to
dry out these compartments since the big keel-over before
Boo took me ashore in his dinghy. First, I
walked over to customs to check in, it was free here
and took only 10 minutes. Then went to photocopy a map of the
There is Internet connection at the Library. Slow but free. I started to upload the pictures, videos. Also answered e-mails. Slow going… My hardest chore is typing and decoding the yacht log into ‘human’ language J.
Hitchhiked back to the ship in the evening. Ingrid from the neighboring South African 60 foot steel sailboat took me back to Carina. I showed them the ship and told them my ideas about sailing in a spiritual manner, and my ‘stormy’ experiences, that’s what people like to hear most. J
Mátyás Bognár, the owner of the 13.5 meter steel
sailboat Balaton invited me to his ship. He showed me
his sturdy and well equipped yacht and we had a few beers. He left
2008.09.10 (day 706).
It’s subject: the sailing culture of the South Pacific and he introduces a few Polynesian, Microesian
made sailing canoes, their voyages and experiences. Hokule, Takitumu, Makali’I,taratai, Hawqaikinui, Te Aurere.
My favorite South Pacific ship types:
Te puke (
Early morning works around the ship: Checking the bow compartment: no water found! Then the re-insulated the battery cables as needed. The battery voltage is around 11.5V, something is draining them constantly, but I don‘t yet know what, so from now on will disconnect the main switch. I believe the wind generator and autopilot connections are good. What could be the problem?
Checked and re-packed the coffin bunks also, though leaked sometimes, they were now drier than usual.
Mátyás’ motor launch took me ashore in the morning to the nearby marina pier. Went to the city library right away to upload the pictures and videos. It was slow going, 6 hours went by like 10 minutes J
Ran into Boo and Ian in the library.
On the beach got acquainted with Mike, he
owns a sailboat charter agency here in
Sailing Adventures NT: www.sailint.com.au, he conducts daily tours in the vicinity in a 32 foot catamaran called Daymirri 2. He also takes on sea funerals. It was an interesting subject to talk about. He gave me the phone number of a good mechanic who might look at my inboard engine. Ian’s dinghy took me back to the ship in the evening.
Received
great news today: my niece, Kinga gave birth to a
daughter: Julia! Congratulations!
2008.09.11 (day 707).
Hugh Evans: http://www.hughevans.com.au/
Checked and dried out the after compartment
in the morning. Dried the wet boards and poly-foams.
Re-packed the second, 12 kg four fluke anchor to under the middle compartment.
Said good bye to Ian and Boo then adjusted my anchorage, drifted a little last
night. Three officers from Alan, a large charter motor ship took me ashore.
They take passengers to the Antarctic for $250,000 AUS/week; the huge ship can
take max. 12 passengers. The voyage lasts several
weeks. For example: next month they’ll start from
Neting and uploading videos in the library from
Afternoon: called Darwin Marine Engineer
Spec. whose offices are on Fisherman’s dock. The
earliest they can look at the motor problem is next Tuesday. Called another
shop: perhaps at the end of next week. These sound like bad news, but not
really…Went to Dinah Beach Cruising Yacht Association (
Evening: walked back to the dinghy dock, where I met Mike and Alan. Alan’s dinghy took me back to Carina.
Works in the ship:
1. performed the three month service of my outboard motor: fuel filters, spark plug, propeller, screws, throttle and fuel tank checking and cleaning. Unfortunately the spark plug was black, incorrect mix perhaps.
2. painted the welding on the mount of the autopilot with rust proofing paint.
Then it became too dark to work anymore.
Strangers write to me sometimes and of course I answer. Received a letter from a couple lately, who wrote that my voyage gave them the idea to buy a sailboat instead of the planned motorboat. Basically, one purpose of this page is to popularize sailing.
2008.09.12 (day 708).
Nowadays I like to read Hungarian folk-wisdom from the calendar…
August
10: if Lõrincz day is sunny then the fall shall last
longer.
August
24: Be careful: all the fall’s days will be like the sky on Bertalan’s
day.
September
21: If Máté day is sunny, the fall shall last three months. If the weather is
nice, you’ll like it ‘til December. And I dare predict: plenty of fruit will
grow next year.
September
29: If thunder on Mihály day, expect a long fall and
hard winter! Many acorns on the trees sees deep snow
at Christmas.
Of course these aren’t too applicable here…
Morning chores:
1. varnished the tiller twice
2. glued two patches on the main sail
3. cleaned the engine compartment and inboard the engine. I simply can’t unscrew the spark plugs, I think they got wet and started to rust. The generator had too much water, I believe it’s irreparable.
4. Started to look for the reason my batteries are getting drained.
Mátyás took me ashore in his dinghy in the morning to the Dinah Beach Cruising Association’s yard.
I was too late to catch their yearly great race: www.darwinambonrace.com.au
Spoke with Bruce, but Jane, the manager was too busy, so I shall return in the afternoon.
Then bought fuel at the fisherman’s dock.
Target: the library! Read the local papers in the library:
The Sydney Morning Herald: www.smh.com.au
The Australian: www.theaustralian.com.au
Alas there are no Hungarian papers L, but the Fiji Times was there.
Then correspondence and writing letters. Slow net.
I’m planning to move to one of the
marinas next week to charge my batteries and other repairs. The
I’d like to have the original inboard motor repaired if I can find a good mechanic within reasonable cost.
I should fix the mast light and the radar reflector on top of the mast as well.
This is my ship’s song nowadays. Thanks to the sender!
Some day soon I go to Mango Lagoon on and Ocean swell,
Places on the seas there sweeter that the breezes on a
wishing well
Admiral Nemo suggested that
we go just ASAP,
He said that the good people there make
A tropical milk shake that
will set you free.
So how do I get there and which way do I go?
What’s there’s the course to follow?
He just pointed to the sky and said,
Sail that Coconut Moon, do what other peoples do
Sail that Coconut Moon; navigate your wishes through.