2008.08.30-09.12
2008.09.12. (Day 708)
I was writing previously that the frigate bird leaves
the shore only for maximum 90-100 nautical miles. Tthe brown boobies 40-60, the
fairy tern only 20-30 nautical miles. From these, one can judge the location of
the ship J.
Afternoon: the dinghy of
the neighbor South African yacht Ingrid took me back to my ship.
Work for afternoon: mending
of the great sail, then started to read a book about
2008.09.13. (Day 709)
Have been writing about the
Torres Straits where the green, the hawkbill, the flatback turtles, and the
dolfins live in great numbers. Link: www.pzja.gov.au.
In case my account does not
provide enough information about the official entrance rules of the Torres
Straits, look up: www.aqis.gov.au/naqs
és a www.aqis.gov.au/tsvessels.
In short: there are two
zones: ’Torres Strait Protected Zone to 10-28S, and to the south from this: a
’Special Quarantine Zone’ stretching to the Continent. For this reason a number
of different rules exist, not like the rules of the Continent.
Mending the great and the
front sails – plenty of holes on the great sail, but on the front sail ’only’ a
tear.
Being Saturday today,
everything is closed, so I rest.
Went to town to look
around. Took a stroll on
Opposite to the strand at
the edge of the harbor is an area called Esplanade where several thousand
exotic animals and plants live (i.e. Ficus Platypoda). This exists due to the
extreme large, 8-meter difference
between ebb and tide, the effect of the monsoon.
Then inspected the Cullen
Bay Marina which turned out to be the most expensive marina in
The ’Bayview Marina’ (www.bayviewmarina.com) is one of the
popular places – they are organizing the Darwin Kupang Rally and the
Darwin-Bali Yacht Rally. Further favorites are the Typperyary Marina, Spot On Marine. Not too many chose
the
After this explored other
marinas and collected some motor repair shop telephone numbers. Afternoon:
walked to the Darwin Gallery, the
While walking on Mindil
Strand, a young Englishman came to me and asked where I am from. We started to
talk, he came to me because my beard attracted him. Have a friend in
Talked to him about sailing,
traveling and adventures what he was intersted in. Generally young people are
interested in those subjects.
Found a lot of European
young folk here who are working and traveling. Next to
Recommended link: www.tntdownunder.com
2008.09.14. (Day 710)
The andara granossa shell
which can be found at the roots of the mangrove plant is the speciality of the
local kitchen. Wickham Point was famous from its mangrove forest, it was mapped
in 1869, in 1942 it became a secret military base. The locals on the
Glued the front sail in the
morning. There must be an electrical problem because the batteries were badly
drained, the voltage is 11.44 volts presently. Separated them – previously my
generator was drenched in salt water which corroded it inside, some of the
cables broke off. This may have caused the hidden drain – checked the whole
system.
It is Sunday, resting.
Went to see the
Museum&Art Gallery of the NT (
„I am not painting for pleasure; there is meaning,
knowledge and power. This is the early painting for the creation and for the
story of the land. The land is not empty, the land is full of knowledge, full
of stories, full of goodness, full of energy, full of power” - Marika Wandjuk.
Thoughts of the local
aborigine painters about painting. Some painters forcefully express what they
think: „the redcoats stole our land,
robbed us, raped our women..... did not understand our old trditions and our
connection with nature, with the earth. Who is really guilty?”
Their most famous musical
instrument is the didgeridoo what they use at courting and at holidays. This
instrument conquered the world these days, is being used virtually everywhere.
Attended some traditional plays too.
The locals are called here
aborigines, according them the world was created by somebody named Ancestors.
Besides, most of the tribes (as the Tiwi) believe that they are immortal.
They have several strange
instruments used mostly in ceremonies.
For me the rock drawings
were most startling – they are making them for 50.000 years. They possess great
traditions and spiritual power. The oldest find was a 40.000 year old 2.35
meter long ’palorchestes’ marsupial animal drawing – they are extinct now.
They call the white men
’kartiya’.
Yonglu girri is the name of
the traditional holiday garment. The traditional skirt is ’balarra’ is made of
balgurr, the traditional fishnet is called ’syaw’.
Few facts: Since 1976 laws
govern the land, some smaller parcels were returned in 1979.
The Museum had an exhibit
on hurricane
Later-on met a few young
men collecting green mango. Why are they harvesting, they are still green – if
you wrap them in paper and wait for a week, they are ripe – was the answer.
Picked a few myself for trial, maye it is true. There are about 250 different
kinds of mango in
Then walked all along
Talked to some aborigines.
In the evening visited the
tourist attraction, the Sunset Market. Did not find it particularly interesting
– only fast food and trinket shops....
Late evening Atair Jannal
arrived with the new crew. Met them by accident on the shore, talked a bit,
they moored next to me.
2008.09.15. (Day 711)
The 16-yar old Zac Sunderland wants to be the
youngest, who circumnavigates the Earth. His voyage can be seen on the internet: http://www.zacsunderland.com.
Started out of
Jan took me to shore with
his dinghy, then showed him the town J.
Purchased Sikafex 291 for
$13 AUD, went to the main Post Office to co-ordinate the receipt of the package
I am waiting for. Talked with Ray, the leader of Darwin Marine Enginnering
about the built-in Saildrive (Yamaha, 8HP, 2-stroke) motor suspension repair.
Accepted the job, but am afraid it is going to cost a lot!
Received a nice e-mail today again: joined a world
traveler school, becuse he wants to sail and was reading my pages. Keep going!
Then came the undersea
craft to inspect my ship’s bottom. Have to have a ’Marine Pest Clearance
Certificate for Entry to Darwin Marinas’ paper, it was free. The divers have
never seen a smaller ’around the world’ ship – photo cameras were clicking –
with my smile.
Excursion boats stop by and
I hear: he is crazy (much rather are crazy who chose the so called
’civilization’ and ruin the planet inbetween.)
Had some beer on the Atair
in the evening, talked about sailing, ships, the ocean.
2008.09.16. (Day 712)
Aboriginal
ExploreOz: www.exploreoz.com
Travel NT: www.travelnt.com
Australian Traveller
(Magazin): www.australiantraveller.com
Parked with the flood tide
next to the pier at
Afternoon:
1. Started to charge the batteries;
2. Readjusted the storm jib hoist since it
broke weeks ago;
3. Replaced a bolt on the mast stiffener
crossbar what I lost. Had to do some gluing too.
Talked with lots of people
about the sailing in
Evening: beer drinking in
the bar with Mike, Jan, and the crew. They invited me and that can not be
refused.
When returned to the ship
from the bar, thought I will write the diary, inspect a few maps while
listening to music. Was after 8 in the evening and everything was pleasant.
Started to cook the usual atrocious soup – Biopont dumplings and Maggi (soup
stock concentrate) cubes combination. Both warranties expired but a year of
course does not mean anything.
Jan warned me in the bar to
look into the motor room for seeping water. OK, I thought, a minute work is
well worth so I can sleep relaxed. The
motor room was full of water! Would not have been a good idea to sink next
to the piear at night. Started to calculate: the water floded in 3 hours, it
seeps only slowly. Immediately started to bail out the water and after 50
liters, stopped for a little rest. Then another 50 liters......figured that by
11, this part of the ship will not be under water. Have to reseal the wooden
plate at the motor output opening. While bailing out the water, my battery lamp
got discharged in 5 minutes. Fortunately it was full moon, got a strong backlit
condition – so I bailed, and bailed in the night alone, wet, and tired.
After a dinner brake, when
the ebb was sufficiently low, removed the wooden plate and the silicon from it.
Did not use the proper quality silicon. Since the lamp battery was out, had to
remove the wooden plate with its 8 screws at candlelight, as usual. Applied the
Siklafex 291. In a half hour, the ship settled in the silt. In times like this,
must make arrangements on the ship to prevent it tilting over. Then hunkered
down in my little wet cabin, my home, and had a good sleep!
2008.09.17. (Day 713)
Bluemapia, my acquanintance
makes it: http://www.bluemapia.com/
(Boating Mobile Social Network)
Morning: continued to
remove the water from the motor room – still had enough in it! Then wrote my
diary and adjusted the boat when got into the silt again at low ebb. A rope
prevents the tilting away from the pier, attached the rope to the mast and
secured it on shore. Tilting toward the pier is prevented by the rubber tire
shock absorbers. Sometimes apply a wooden stick between the pier and the mast,
this keeps the ship away from the pier.
Walked to the Darwin Marine
Engineering Specialists’ shop to check on the motor. Ray Jones explained the
situation:
The motor suspension rubber
stand has to be replaced. Went to different companies, but could find
acid-resistant ones only at Delta Electrics. Had to order them, will be here on
Friday. Will cost me $120 AUD. Purchased
also four special acid-resistant bolts for the stand at Darwin Supplies.
Stopped as usual between
the city and the industrial area.
Met a French couple in the
library who returned my xeroxed Indonesian Guide Book. They start tomorrow
toward
At the
Lunch: crocodile hamburger – the crocodile meat is
very tasty!
Then went again to the
motor shop to co-ordinate the next step and did some shopping as well.
Became a ’temporary’ member
of the Dinah Beach Yacht Association for a month and paid Jan $94 AUD for one
week mooring in the marina (it’s not
cheap!). Life is very expensive.
Bailed out the water from
the right-hand area because yesterday the water flew into it from the motor
space.
Because of this, I am in a
bad mood today.
Got acquaintained with
Bruno, a Slovenian sailor who lived in Koper, the very place I started out
from. He lives here and has a pretty good understanding and experience in
sailing around
Later went to to the bar to
talk with a few acquaintances, then to the neighboring marina where the WiFi is
free.
2008.09.18. (Day 714)
What nobody is talking about: Sometimes I meet boatmen
who sail with phoney papers for years (false ship papers and false passport).
The British boat registration is the simplest and cheapest.
Around the World with a motorboat record: http://www.earthrace.net (60 days, 23 hours, 49 minutes). Good videos
are at the bottom of the page.
Worked in the shop in the
morning, removed the shaft from the base, it was bent (0.5 mm) – Ray
straightened it out. The gearchanger oil became creamy and light brown in
color, that means that water got mixed with it. Has to be replaced along with
the seal rings. More work and expenses.
Walked in the afternoon to
the close by Francis Bay Marine company, the leader is a Hungarian, László.
Talked to him about my ship thinking that if somebody is working in this trade,
will be interested J.
Polished the ship for a few
hours....will coat it with alagae-repellent before leaving.
Took a bus in the evening
to
Then took me to Mindil
Beach Sunset Market where we walked and listened to a few didgeridoo concerts.
Also ran into boat acquaintances.
Ate kangaroo meat in the evening – telling the truth
did not like it but just had to try it. These
special foods are the cheapest in the market, $2-3 US.
They make the soup from
kangaroo tail, one of the most delicious soups in the world.
2008.09.19. (715 nap)
Hungarian ship is starting out to circumnavigate the
Earth, link: http://www.foldkerules.hu/.
The natives’ (aborigines)
situation here is very sad. A lot more attention is given the Maoris in
The aborogines are more
wild. Simon, my acquaintance was almost killed by his girlfriend’s father, this
is frequent here. In war, they still use the lance, the boomerang and black
magic.
The whites are living in
beautiful houses and buy new vehicles, on the other hand large numbers of the
aborigines sleep under the open sky in the parks or on the beach where they
make bonfires. Fishing mostly with stones, not with fishing rods as the
’whites’.
The first Autralian
settlers till the 1860-s were criminals from the British jails, these people
did not understand and did not want to understasnd the natives.
The natives have more than
100 languages, because of the ’white’ oppression the different tribes kept
together. Here in
Started to mount the red
position lamp in the morning, later hitchhiked to CBC in the industrial area to
get the seal rings, more accurately to order them beacuse they will arrive only
on Friday. Strolled over to Delta Electronics too, but the stand did not arrive
as yet despite they promised it! Then hitchkiked back to town – it is easy to
hitchhike here.
Tried the roasted camel today – tastes terrible.
Short shopping in town,
then got on a short internet in the library.
2008.09.20. (Day 716)
Days ago met with bicyclists who started out 10 years
ago and they are still on the way. Covered
Some acquaintanses’ pages:: http://www.bahati.net
Veritas Sailing
Today is Saturday, so I
relaxed a bit and visited the 123 square kilometer close-by
Wangi waterfalls,
Saw a little kangaroo too,
took a good pleasant walk.
The original wagait lived
here, then the ’white’ man mapped it and started mining. One of the most
peculiar trees is the banyan.
Got acquainted with a few
sailors - with Tim and others.
Free dinner in town, in the
Vic. Got two free tickets again from a friend J.
The Blue Water Rally (BWR
2008) arrived in
Met with some of them in
Again met with Robert and Wendy
Prinsen, had a short talk, their website: www.heidenskip.com.
Website of the Hungarians
in
A lot of Hungarians live
here. Proof: met with a few them accidentally in
2008.09.21. (Day 717)
Two cheap stores are in
Morning tasks:
1. tying the batteries together again
(100Ah+120Ah+47Ah+47Ah), then did some measuring
resistances with and without load. I think the
problem was at the generator cables after salt water got into them. Still
charging the ship batteries, will need at least 2-3 days continuous charging!;
2. mounted the green position light also.
Thanks to Dominic and Hella for the products;
3. polishing the bottom of the boat.
Went to the library because
of the free internet usage and had to print out the Indonesian Sailing Permit
which arrived in the mean time.
The neighbor ship gave me a
piece of plexiglass from which I can cut out the door.
Got acquainted with Jojo, a
German „I am working and inbetween circunmavigate
2008.09.22. (718 nap)
The earth is not homogenous, but it has a deep
depression at the
Dinah Beach Crusing Yacht
Assocation, where CARINA is stationed:
http://www.dinahbeachcya.com.au/.
Called Delta Electronics in
the morning and CBC, the orders arrived, took a bus for this reason. One of the
motor mounts is damaged, have to wait again for the good one for 1-2 days.
Stopped by the service to
co-ordinate.
The motor stand was $120
AUD (got it down from 170, that here is absolutely impossible!)
The seal rings were $140
AUD.
Ate a little Dim Sum around
Wanted to exchange books
but there is no such thing in the marina, nor in the ’knapsack section’, would
be too expensive in the center. So went to the
This is what I like in our civilizationJ.
Afternoon work around the
ship:
Started to cut out a door
shape with hand tools, goes very slowly.
Went for dinner to Vic again
since have some free tickets what I got from a local friend.
Then shopped for food,
thereafter got on the internet in the marina (free WiFi, as usual).
2008.09.23. (Day 719)
A few years ago a 15-foot sailboat moored here with a
Polish captain. Heard that his map was an inflatable rubber globe, don’t know
more about him.
The missing motor stand did
not arrive in the morning, can get it only tomorrow. The hydraulic seal is
missing too. Will be able to put the motor together tomorrow in the shop.
Purchases:
1.5 liters gear olil - $28
AUD;
$75 AUD worth of xeroxed
maps of the next rout;
2 rechargeable pencil
batteries (AA, 2500 mA) for the camera – the old ones are all bad.
Afternoon:
Lucas, an English sailor
helped to tighten the mast tensioner. Then talked over ships, sailships and the
ocean. He is sailing with his parents on the Blue Water Rally.
Later in the afternoon
talked to Ilosvay Gusztáv and Katalin on the phone, the Hungarian Radio Mosaic,
Sidney (http://www.ilosvay.net), about my
voyage.
Free dinner in the evening
as usual at Vic, unfortunately this is my last free ticket but don’t want to
ask friends for more – although they cook really well here!!
Was a little storm at night
and started to rain too. The ’transition’ time is approaching, then the rainy
season comes. In the dry season there is no rain here at all. The wind started
with the tide and went with the ebb flow along with the rain – was a bit
nervous because the wind can easily slam the boat against the pier and damage
it!
2008.09.24. (720. nap)
More accurately Day 730, since I started out from
Slovania (Koper) 2 years ago
According to this the numbering of the days
slipped somewhere by 10. In time I will correct it, until then just here.
Didgeridoo:
Traditionally the
didgeridoo is a log or branch of eucalyptus tree hollowed out by termites. The
cavity is usually conical in shape, blowing it at the smaller side. They
frequently apply beeswax to the entrance opening, this way the musician can
shape the blowhole to his mouth dimensions. Usually paint it for decoration.
Lately they make the
instrument by the ’sandwich’ method, using two properly carved out halves of
wood glued together. Also make it with cane, or even out of plastic material. To
conform to the Western musical standards, continuously tunable versions are
also available. The tuning is accomplished by a telescopic extension piece.
Method of playing:
basically similar to trompet playing. The player puts the smaller side to his
closed mouth while forces out the air between his lips. Sounds like when
children play with toy cars, sounding like brrrrrr. The lips start vibraring and causing a
periodic pressure oscillation which creates a resonance accentuating some
components of the sound. Due to the irregular shape of the cavities chewed out
by the termites, the conical-shape cavity does not provide regular overtone
spectrums, but they consider this quality desirable which makes the music more
interesting, it sounds richer.
The instrument can be
played with circular breathing
without gaps in the sound by taking air in through the nose, during which the
air stored in the mouth cavity supplies the pressure. As a consquence the
instrument sounds like bourdon, but its sound quality can be altered, made
richer by these methods:
1. by the tightness of the lips and by the air
pressure changes one can bring out the different
resonances in the tube;
2. melodies and overtones can be created by
changing the volume of the mouth cavity and by
adjusting the position of the tongue,
thus varying the mouth cavity resonances;
3. rhythms can be created by controlling the
air and by the contractions of the midriff muscles;
4. one can enrich the music by singing,
exceptioonal exciting effects can be created by slighty off-key
singing which results in an acoustical
vibrating effect.
Links: www.rawdidge.com
http://didgeridoo.saman.org.hu/
We were working in the shop
in the morning (installed the seal rings treated with Loctite 515 Flange
Sealant), then had to go CBC again
because one of the seals was the wrong size (the packaging showed the right
dimension!) – lost a day again.
But finally got the 4th
rubber support at Delta Electronics.
Basically waiting for a
package and for family reasons I can not leave this week.
In the afternoon replaced
the port side (left) position light damaged cable. Had to test a lot until
found where the problem was.
Finished the cutting out of
the plexiglass door that took a lot of time due to my hand tools.
Drank some beer with
Natalie and Bruno in the evening. The
husband of Nat is Chris, a completely wild Russian sailor who built here in
Darwin a 30-foot totally black iron junk without windows, for more than 10
years sailed the Indian ocean. Met his wife in the Philippines, and got ’stuck’
in this area. No motor, no electricity ( no radio and no GPS). Lighting in the evening is by candle
and kerosene lamp. the windstill is frequent around Indonesia, consequently
their voyages are taking weeks - slowly
just by wind power. Chris wrote a book about his sailing but unfortunately had
no extra copy. He is sailing near Indonesia – will we meet maybe?
Heard a story yesterday about an Argentinian sailor,
Alberto Torroba, who sailed long distances on the ocan with a canoe and later
with a raft, for navigation he used the ancient Polynesian method: the stars.
http://www.atomvoyages.com/articles/albertotorroba.htm
Early in the morning went
to the Aboriginal Bush Trade Center: www.aboriginalbushtraders.com;
www.aaia.com.au, where had a conversation
with the seller about the situation of the aborigines. In the Northern
Territory their ratio is 25-30%, but in Australia proper only 2.5%. Got citizenship only in 1967 and in ’76
managed to create an ’Land Law’, consequently got back large parcels in the
Northern Territory – mainly deserts.
Later took a bus to the
Industrial part for the rest of the materials, then did free interneting in the
library – will be closed until Monday!
Put together the motor
stand and the motor in the afternoon. Then tried the starter motor in the boat
– and it worked! The motor got a lot of water, was worried if it is not OK.
Tried to fix the soldering
iron but could not. The seawater completely corroded it away, by plugging it in
the power, I got a shock!
Bruno came over again in
the evening and had a conversation on the Northern Territory. Government
control is minimum here in comparison with the country. For instance, no ship
operator document or boat licence is required here! Explained that 30 years
before only bushes and mangrove stands were here. Since then they building,
’developing’ the area.
Interesting that twice as
many males live here than females – the population is meager anyway J.
2008.09.26. (Day 732.)
The area of Darwin is Larrakia, translated:
’sea-people’ as they call the natives. They have a special spiritual connection
with the ocean. It is difficult to understand this by somebody from a completely
different civilization. They live here for about 50.000 years with their
misticism.
Ancestor, who came from the ocean, created people and the living world, then went back
to the ocean. His image is depicted as a snake-like, fish-like animal usually
with a crocodile head, paddles under his
head and a few branches on it.
This day was terrible!
1. Got the bill for the motor repair – it was
too large. Told him my limits before the work started but
this is much bigger....
2. Then went to László, a local Hungarian. The
dog bit me on the premises, my leg was bleeding from
several wounds;
3. The package from my acquaintance has not
arrived as yet, maybe got lost, unfortunately there is no
FedEx in Darwin;
4. Paid for the next 6 days in the marina at
the Yacht Club ($66 AUD);
Tested the motor in the
shop of the club. Exchanged a seal ring under the carburator and bought four
new ignition plugs for the motor ($16 AUD) - finally it started!
2008.09.27. (Day 733.)
How can one ’survive’ in a civilization without money:
1. Hare
Krishna caritative restaurant, present in all large cities, can eat free or
almost free fine and
healthy
food;
2. Can get old
bread free in larger food stores;
3. Can get
very cheap, warranty-expired food items;
4. The
Salvation Army, their associate services, churches, distribute free food once a
week;
5. Few
rucksack bums are scavenging on a garbage heap. The more experienced know
the
restaurants
where the leftovers are made available after closing.
Went to a ’rummaging’ place
with Bruno in the morning. Bought a used generator for $40 AUD, because the
original got completely soaked when the boat ’lost its balance’ and it became
irreparable, Then bought a waterproof LED lamp to be worn on head ($10 AUD).
After this Bruno showed me his 37-foot iron boat, gave me a few cables and
anti-algae paint.
Cleaned the bottom of my
boat in the afternoon, polished it and applied the anti-algae paint.
Later watched the
Australian soccer finals with some acquaintances in the bar, Tim invited me for
a rum-and-coke – it was delightful!
Then did some washing and
rearranged the rear compatment.
Tried the wallaby meat in the evening – this is a
small size kangaroo. Tastes much better than the kangaroo.
2008.09.28. (734. nap)
My Grandfather has his
birthday today – God bless you GRANDDAD! Carina was prepared in his backyard.
Often talk with sailors in the club. Comparing with
other countries, continents, what is different is this: the crocodile stories. Happened that the crokodile attacked
yacht dinghies, mainly at the sweet-water rivers.
Replaced the motor in the
ship (used Siklafex 291), then cleaned,
polished the ship bottom, painted on the alagae killer. Made a little pause
around noon, then Scot with his dinghy took me to the buoys where the sailboats
are stationed at the river entrance. Will translocate here tomorrow – don’t
want to pay $11 AUD daily for mooring, the motor is installed in its place. I
am ready to start out but still waiting for two packages.
In the afternoon:
1. Filling the water containers (2- 25l, 3-
15l, 1- 10l, 2- 5l, and additional 80l in bottles);
2. Applied polyester to the bottom of the
cockpit (layered wood plate, the layers started to separate);
3. Cleaned the motor ignition plugs. If I don’t
spray them with a rust-preventer and don’t pack them
airtight, they will rust;
4. Ant eradication with chemicals. The problem
surfaced since moored next to the pier. They come
aboard on the ropes and on the impact
absorbers. Evening, as every Sunday: live music in the club.
2008.09.29. (735. nap)
Northern Territory:
Not Today
Not Tomorrow
Not Thuesday
Not Thursday
This is a lazy place in comparison with the rest of
Australia.
Have to leave the club pier
with the tide today evening because another ship comes tomorrow in my place.
For this reason, have to finish all work today. A lot of work, but have no
other choice.
Daily tasks:
Got some International
algae killer yesterday from Bruno, will use this expensive paint the first time
in my life;
Reattached the propeller,
painted it over with the algae killer too;
The mast light cable got
damaged at the foot – it runs inside the mast, can not get to it – had to
provide an outside cable running up the mast. Not too elegant solution but hope
it will work and will last;
Since after 18 hours will
get near the buoys, will have a hard time to go shopping. I purchased:
4 kg apples,
3 kg potatoes,
20 packets of noodles.
Simple J.
Bruno loaned his aluminum
dinghy which leaks a ’little’. Have a leftover paddle, the other one broke
already...
The place for the ship is
perfect, magrove forest on one side, behind me the river entrance. On the other
side marinas and houses of the civilization.
2008.09.30. (Day736.)
Became a double-uncle today: my sister had twin boys!
Peter Faiman/John Cornell: Crocodile Dandy I/II (1986/88) gives a glance on
the life of the crocodile hunters, but I selected a different mode.
Early morning went to the Darwin Marine
Engineering Specialists’ Office where paid for the work and materials. 10%
reduction: the ship is in transit, a 15% discount because I am poor, and Ray
has a good heart J.
After this took a bus to Palmerston where met with Ervin.
He is 78 years old but looks younger than 70.
Escaped from Hungary in 1952 where he was a soldier. Did not like the Soviet
military uniform what the Hungarian soldiers had to wear. Did not like the
Communist propaganda either, the brainwashing and for these reasons he left
Hungary.
Settled down in Australia, became a joiner,
miner and many more other, then from the middle of the 50’s lived from hunting.
There were some crocodile hunters in the area, but Ervin was the best according
to others, not from him. In the 60s made frequent trips to Indinesia and
Thailand where got acquainted with his wife, both came to Darwin. 3 children
were born and looking at the photographs, the Hungarian-Thai combination is a
world success.
-
How many crocodiles did you
shoot in your life?
-
More than three thosand. On
the most successful week shot 98, and prepared the skins in 7 days.
-
What was the biggest one?
-
A 27-footer (9 meters)
species, skinned it and took a picture of it. This was published in the
Australian Hunter magazine because this was the record for the kind!
-
How big do they grow?
-
Shot 30-23 footers in
India. I think in this part of Australia they may grow upto 35 feet (12
meters). My 27-footer was young – other 10 years and could have reached even 35
feet. Very difficult to shoot the older, bigger crocodiles because they are
very experienced.
-
How dangerous is this?
-
Was bitten several times by
crocodiles, sometimes they attacked my boat. Crocodiles are among the best
hunters in the animal kingdom. Very quick and incredibly strong, one bite and
the victim is done. The crocodile demands respect. At times only my luck saved
me.
-
How is the hunt done?
-
Best time is after sunset,
one can drift in the river with a strong boat without motor, inbetween scan the
water surface with a battery lamp. Only the eyes and the tip of the nose shows.
You have time for only one shot, best to shoot at the head. Have to protect the
skin due to its value, it must be flawless.
Walking in the house memories of old hunts
surfaced. The photographs and the trophies on the wall all brought up dear
history. Got famous due to his crocodile hunts in the area, but basically he
hunted for everything: kangaroo, rabbit, bird, pig, buffalo......
- What
kind of a life is it – how should one imagine it?
- Breakfast
and lunch: crocodile eggs, dinner: crocodile roast. Must be ready to shoot
every second.
Heat
and a lot of moquitos. Can not bathe in the river, the crocodiles may attack
you, even on
shore it is advisable to
keep several meters distance from the water. One method of their hunting is to
attack people and animals standing on shore. It approaches under water, jumps
out only in the last second grabbing the throat of the victim while they are
drinking or cooling. One bite is enough – the jaws of the crocodile is very
strong!
-
Which is the tastiest part
of the crocodile?
-
Basically all parts are
fine, but the tail is best!
Ervin then put a film in his projector and were
watching a film about crocodiles. Relayed some tricks and secrets about
crocodile hunting I would not like to descibe here
-
Where else did you hunt?
-
Mostly in Australia but got
invited to Papua New Guinea too where contracted malaria.
-
Hunting to fill orders?
-
Yes. Several times was able
to satisfy rich people’s requirements as well. Ordered the species, the size,
then I shot and prepared them. Made glass eyes too with a special process. The
client specified the color, then I cast it in a wooden form, even put a black
line on it!
-
Should write a book about
crocodile hunting – I said.
Those should write who don’t, and those who should
not, do. Such is our world.
Crocodile hunting is not
allowed from 1972 on the Northern Territory, so he relocated. Started to grow
fruit and vegetables on his large 5 acres, did beekeeping and lobster fishing too.
In 2008 he is virtually the only living ex-crocodile hunter and he is one of
the most known one.
Later he also showed his
garden, is filled with a variety of Indonesian and other tropical vegetables
and fruits. Chili, Jack fruit, banana, papaya, mango, Indonesian apple, star
apple, mahogany, etc.
Ervin gave me a bag of
vegetables and fruits, then took me back to the Palmerston bus terminal. Can
come any time – he said, just call and he will pick me up. Are we
soulmates? Certainly did not feel the
generation difference!
2008.10.01. (Day 737.)
When got up in the morning,
noticed that my dinghy is full of water, tried to carefully climb in to remove
the water. Then it completely submerged and overturned. The ebb flow is very
strong here immediately after the tide – I feel I am in a river. After several
plans and tries Kathie came to help from
the neighbor ship. Main problem was that the overturned dinghy got wedged under
the ship what could not unlodge alone due to the strong stream. Got completely
jammed! Without her, must have been waiting till the stream subsides.
Paddling to the Dinah Beach
Cruising Yacht Association pier takes minimum 20 minutes every time, plus
sweating in the heat. When the stream helps, the trip is more pleasant and
spectacular as well, because paddle with one paddle – have no second.
Bought a few new ignition
plugs for the Tohatsu motor, got on the internet in the library.
Interneting in the library
is very slow, so is everything else here.
Sent an article to the
Sailing Magazine today. Will plan the next trip section track. Basically
waiting for two packages to arrive, am ready to depart to Indonesia.
Paddle for 30 minutes,
maybe more daily in the morning and in the evening. It is not simple in the
wind and the streaming is not favorable. Basically, since there is no bus
service here, must walk to almost everywhere what means an hour walking daily.
In my opinion one has to have this much sport, even the mosquitos don’t bother
me in sleeping.
Tiwi Islands:
These islands ar situated
80 kilometers north of Darwin. Sailed there at my arrival here, the Tiwi people
live here, the land is theirs. Meaning of Tiwi: chosen people. The first
Europeans came in 1824, built a fortress (Fort Dundas) on Melville Island.
Because of the attacks by the Tiwi people, the place was abandoned. A catholic
mission was established on Bathurst island in 1911 but abandoned it, all the
ensuing missionary activities met defeat. In 1978 the Tiwi pople officially got
their land back. Due to the seawater rise in the past 4000 years, Tiwi Island
got completely isolated from the mainland. Because of this, their language
differs from the aborigines on the mainland. Their handwork is interesting and
popular here. Since a permit is required to step ashore on the islands,
basically mostly organized tourist groups visit the Tiwi. They have two main
traditional ceremonies, one is Kulama at the end of the rainy season, the other
is Pukamai celebrated a few months after the burning of dead people.
2008.10.02. (Day 738.)
Books about traveling in
Australia:
Robyn Davidson: Tracks
(1980), a youg girl walked to the west coast with her camel – 1700 kilometers;
Tony Horwitz: One for the
Road (1999), history of hitchhiking
around Australia, interesting people, ’bush’ inns.
Since talked about
crocodiles with Ervin, getting more-and-more interested in them, so took a bus
to the Crocodile Park.
Saltwater crocodiles (class: Reptilia, Family:
Crocodylidae).
Originated in India, then
arrived here in North Australia through Southeast Asia. The male usually grows
to a length of 7 meters. This is the most frequent species here. Feeding
happened at 10 – just caught it. Were jumping spectacularly after pieces of
chiken.
Also were turtle, ostrich,
emu, kangoroo and bison.
Read in the Crocodile Park
that there were 68 registered crocodile attacks, out of which 20 were deadly.
Basically the aborogines and the white people living in the bush-country are
not included here, the live really in the wild.
The Crocodile Park is an
educational and research center. Somewhat troublesome that you can buy
crocodile skin in the souvenir shops along with heads, feet, and meat too! (The
crocodiles are protected since 1972 in the Northern Territory).
Were snakes also in he
Park, trying to remember their names – not to talk about their latin names –
but mostly their colors and what they looked like. A lot of venomous snakes
live here!
Then spent the whole
afternoon in the library interneting – much too slow!!
Accepted the package from
the sponsor Turtle-pac.
http://www.meder.hu/hun/turtlepac.htm
Thank you very much!
The connection to the new
generator is not simple, the old one had 3+1 connectors, the new one has 4+1 –
no idea what goes where...
Purchased roasted buffalo meat on the market (local
large bison) that ate later in the ship with bread. The buffalo meat is very
tasty!
For me the new flavors are
part of traveling, traveling is the part of sailing. This is the reason of
writing about it frequently.
’Culinary adventure’ they
say here. What I am looking for is not ’packaged’ usual flavors for tourists,
for me it a matter of a special interest. I am looking for is the local or
national foodspecialties. Best you can get acquainted in depth with the society
of the people by knowing what and how they eat and where. The food and eating
are special instruments of communication. Furthermore, eating is a kind of common language. For instance, when I was
invited on Fiji or another island for dinner, I could see better into their
life and could get to know them better. This is good!
2008.10.03. (Day 739.)
Connected the motor
electronics in the morning. Was not easy – the main switch which connects the
batteries to the motor was totally corroded – had to bypass it. Substituted
with a screw and nut, connecting the wires together. If needed, can be
disconnected, but is a slow process – stuck with it.
Other problem was the
grounding, provided a new cable between the starter and motor grounds because
the old one was not good. Finally the motor started again!
Paddled to shore. Had
headwind again and counter stream from halfway on. Got a good sweat!
Purchased:
- 1 Muffler&Tailpipe saeler (Permatex) to
be used with the tailpipe seal connection to prevent water
and exhaust gas getting into the motor
area;
- 1 silicon marine sealant (Selleys) what I will
apply around the mast light and radio coaxial cables
exiting the cabin. The best material
should be used here to prevent water entering the cabin and
possibly damaging expensive equipment;
- 250 ml
antiseptic solution (chloroxylenol), important in the tropics to prevent wound
infection;
- one
small bottle eucalyptus oil – a traditional healing agent. Good for everything:
cold, influenza,
joint
pain and for sterilizing too.
- 1
silicon dispenser. Even when lubricated it, breaks every year because it is not
acid resistant.
Then internet in the library.
The generator connections for the Daihatsu motor
made in the 70s were obtained by Duna Autó Zrt. through their German
associates were sent from Budapest. Thank them for their helping hand and
efforts which culminated in:
The new (used) genertator Daihatsu connections:
B – battery + side goes to the battery;
A – wire to the voltage regulator – essentially
identical with B;
F – induction, goes to the voltage regulator.
The old one was F too;
E – most likely identical with the housing, the
old one was N;
P – could go to the revolution counter – if it
still works.
Got the package from the
Parameters of my new solar
battery: Kyocera Mod. KC40T; 43 watts; 2.4 amperes; 4.5 kg; 53X65 cm in size. A
nice acquaintance brought me back to my ship, so I did not have to paddle all
the way.
2008.10.04. (Day 740.)
Sailing news:
Phuket Boat Show: www.phuketboatshow.com
RORC Caribbean 600 (Royal
Ocean Racing Club&Antigua Yacht Club): www.rorc.org,
the race starts in February, 2009.
In the morning, applied the
Muffler&Tailpipe sealer between the exhaust pipe and the heat resistant
plastic tube, it provides good insulation in high heat and water environments.
The new cable to the mast
light required a larger hole, have to seal the hole later with the silicone
marine sealer.
Removed the old v-belt
wheel from the old generator in the shop and put it onto the new one, because
want to use the same belt.
Interneting in the library in
the afternoon.
Monti came over in the
evening – drank a little on the ship. Told stories about the life in
2008.10.05. (Day 741.)
Started to work on the
solar battery in the morning. Attached a strong 6m long cable along with a
connector so I can disconnect it and place it in the cabin any time if
necessary.
Something is wrong with the
generator: got a shock when wanted to connect it. Don’t understand! Basically
the contacts were dirty which I thorougly cleaned. Thoroughly cleaned the contact
between the generator and the motor (housing), this was one of the problems.
The voltage regulator got a
bit wet – is it possibly faulty? According to measurements it is OK. When the
system is energized, it switches immediately.
The problem is at the ignition
switch: whether the ignition is on or off, voltage is there. Disassembly of
this part is too large of a task.
As usual, got on the
internet in the library. Free and slow!
My father explained to me
generally how to measure a generator during the voltage regulator test. Then
finally could talk with the family too.
Did washing in late
afternoon, then conversed with Bruno.
Found a broken dinghy in
the junkyard. Maybe keep it because can be fixed (the secret recipe is the
fiberglass-polyester work, epoxy sealer 199, gloss 344) – its shape is super.
Scotty invited me on his 32
foot super fishingboat and drank Scottish whiskey, even offered a dinner! Thank
you! J
Basically we gossiped about
the Club since got to know the people here and know who does what. Is
interesting to know sometimes the backgroung stories too.
2008.10.06. (Day 742.)
Mourning day. But reminds
us of Glory and Heroism... ***
Rearranged the ship
contents and mounted the generator.
To the advice of my father,
more likely will disconnect the ignition and the voltage regulator. Have no
time for troubleshooting – should have left a week ago already, or maybe 3
weeks ago?
Will connect a switch
between points A and F. When the motor is on and want to charge the batteries,
will make the connection. If the batteries are OK, will turn off the switch.
Afternoon: internet in the
library. Then checkout and money changing to rupies (Indonesian money).
A last purchase: basically
vegetables and chocolate J.
Start toward
Al the best for evberybody!
Peace and wind!
CARINA and Áron,
Darwin, AUS.
*** From Pali, the translator:
October 6 is a national
mourning day in
they
were shot, instead of being hanged!
Clear manifestation of the
’civilized’ Western culture - as Áron noticed it too!