Malaysia

(continued, the last day)

 

(translated by Laszlo AA7UY)

 

2008.12.26 (day 825)

 

John Perkins’ books: Confessions of an Economic Hit Man and Secret History of the American Empire.

http://www.gazdasagibergyilkos.hu

http://www.johnperkins.org

 

Breakfast: puttu and mayung. Made of rice powder, I can also make these in CARINA. Simple and tasty Indian sweets.

 

Took the wind generator with the stainless post over to Richard in the morning (yacht Muggert). He welded a metal rod to the head of the bolt; it could now be turned but then it broke. At least I could now remove the wind generator from its post J Afterwards Richard cut a thread in another place on the stainless bolt. From now on I can secure it to the post. This took 1.5 hours. Thank you Richard! Richard is German, his wife is Turkish. They sailed together in a very good steel hulled ship from the Mediterranean through the Red Sea and Indian Ocean.

Then went into town, bought a sparkplug for the engine and had my gas bottle filled that will be ready tomorrow.

Lunch: Curry Mee (2.3 ringas), a Chinese soup, that is least expensive and is very filling. Curiously, they prepare it differently in every eatery, so the taste doesn’t get boring. 

 

Afternoon:

Checked my Tohatsu outboard, cleaned, sprayed inside with silicone and changed the sparkplug. Sorted the rest of the sparkplugs and cleaned a few.

Checked out at the Harbormaster and Customs, I’ll have my passport stamp tomorrow.

Laundry: all my  polo shirts were dirty.

Checked the inboard engine: water-cooling is okay.

Repacked the starboard coffin bunk (leaking here too!).

Took some long, hot showers today, washed my infected wound with soap.

Replaced the wiring and connectors of the wind generator, re-connected and prayed with silicone.

In the evening: went shopping on a Tesco bus. Shopped for about an hour then took the Tesco bus back to the marina.

They’re playing soccer at the marina club all evening.

Interneted at night in town.

 

Penang, MalaysiaPhuket, Thailand,  200 nm

 

 

Based on the December Pilot Chart: 20% calm; 60% NE, E winds 15 knots. Weather is most favorable on this route during the NE monsoon (Nov. -–  March).

 

Planned route: WP1(05-25.5N; 100-20.8E); WP2(05-30.5N; 100-19.2E); WP3(05-35.7N; 100-12.2E);

WP4(06-00.8N; 99-51.4E); WP5(06-09.7N; 99-41.5E); WP6(06-32.5N; 99-24.9E);

WP7(07-09.2N; 98-54.2E); WP8(07-22.5N; 98-43.0E); WP9(07-37.9N; 98-27.6E);

WP10(07-46.5N; 098-24.9E); WP11(07-48.1N; 098-22.8E); WP12(07-49.4N; 098-22.0E)

 

I must sail around a lot of small islands: Seantag, Langkawi, Ko Chuku, Hin Daeng, Ko Racha Yai, etc. Also many yachtsmen said there are very many fishing boats in the area. That is one of the difficulties of the next section (very little sleep).

 

 

 

Marinas near Phuket Island:

 

1.       Phuket Boat Lagoon Marina  http://www.phuketboatlagoon.com

2.       Yacht Haven Marina:  http://www.yacht-haven-phuket.com/

3.       http://www.hotelthailand.com.th/phuket/phuket_info.html

4.       http://www.phuket.com/

5.       Royal Phuket Marina: http://www.royalphuketmarina.com/

http://www.phuket.com/sailing/marina.htm

 

The Yacht Haven Marina offered me free use of their harbor. Thank you!

 

2008.12.27 (day 826)  New Moon

 

Books by Dr. David Henry Lewis (sailor and adventurer):

1     We the Navigators – Traditional Navigation of the Pacific Islanders

2.        The Ship Would Not Travel Due West – 1960, He started in the first single-handed (solo) Trans-Atlantic                        Yacht race in a 25 foot ship, finishing third. Had a lot of technical problems, like losing his mast shortly after the start. Plymouth, UKU.S. East Coast.

3.    Daughters of the Wind – He was first to round the World in a catamaran, Rehu Moana. Starting in the

1964 single-handed Trans Atlantic Race, then his family joined him in the USA and they rounded the capes together. He used no Compass, Sextant or Chronometer between Tahiti and New Zealand, only the traditional, several thousand-year-old navigation of the islanders.

4.        Ice Bird – Attempted to sail around the Antarctic single-handed in a small steel hulled ship. They heard nothing of him for 13 weeks after his departure. Had many technical problems, lost his mast, then capsized and had to return to Cape Town.

 

My position in the Marina: (05-24.85N; 100-20.60E)

 

Morning: cleaned the ship’s hull, it fouls here fast. The water in the Marina is very dirty, last night I saw some large water mammals (perhaps rats). So this one hour work wasn’t too pleasant…

Went to pick up the gas bottle. (2 kg, 12 ringis). It’s good that I have several different kinds of adapters, otherwise I wouldn’t be able to refill the bottle. Then went to Immigration to stamp my passport. I can finally leave! This marina is the cheapest in the area, not only in my opinion, but according to several other sailors as well. So there are quite a few ships in this Marina.

 

Last lunch: Chinese soup and Malay coffee. Then money exchange and packing in the ship. The Indian skipper of a motor yacht helped to install the wind generator frame, I couldn’t have done it alone.

 

11:00LT : flood tide, and the direction of the current starts flowing north 3 hours later, so I departed at 13:00 after saying good bye to acquaintances and the dockmaster.

 

Started the engine. Wind Bf.2-3 NNW. Had to motor during the first hour while in the strait. Heavy ship traffic. This is shipping lane, one must not tack. Had the main sail up in addition to the engine, that also helped. Then shut off the engine and  used the sails only. I must leave the 20 mile vicinity of the strait because the current’s direction changes in 6 hours and could be 2-3 knots near there.

 

Dinner; bagette and cheese.

 

21LT: unable to radio with the Hungarian Group. Too many fishing boats and galloping in in Bf.4-5 quarter winds with full sails. Don’t want to slow down because I want to leave the fishingboats behind.

23LT reefed the main sail, there are some gusts higher than Bf.5. A small accident while reefing. Because of the short, steep waves, CARINA was jumping back and forth and suddenly listed from a strong gust. I wasn’t secured with my safety line, and not holding on to anything just then, I slipped. The railing caught me, my feet were in the water already. Hit my left knee badly, I can’t put any weight on it. Finished reefing and rested a little in the cabin. I have and ugly infection on my right thigh and now my left knee hurts as well.

The wind weakened to Bf.3-4 at dawn, took out the reef making 3-4 knots in quartering wind on 300°.

Now there are even large ships in the vicinity in addition to the fishermen.

 

2009.12.28 (day 827)

 

Hans Lindemann was a better known ‘adventure’ sailor. He crossed the Atlantic Ocean in a sail-equipped canoe in the 50’s .

 

09LT POS(05-58N; 099-32E)

1010 mB, 35 °, Bf.2 NW, making 2 knots in a westerly direction.

 

Breakfast: bagette, cheese, onions

Moving slowly, have been looking at Langkawi Island since dawn.

At noon: 1.5 knots on 280°

Lunch: apple, orange, pineapple and aloe vera.

Afternoon: readin Malay Metro: http://www.thestar.com.my/metro/north

 

Yesterday’s knee injury no longer hurts.

Motored a spell. Should arrive before Tuesday because afterwards the check-in fees are higher.

Fishing boats in the distance all day.

Evening: dark clouds and lightning nearby.

21LT POS(06-21N; 99-07E)

Radio connection14.290 MHz: Rudi, HA5HS; Laci, HA8RD

Forecast: weak NW winds for the next few days.

Evening: wind increasing, a storm catches up with me at night. Bf.5-6 SW in about 5 seconds. Lowered jib, and reefed maximum. Wind and rain gone in 30 minutes. Bf.1-2 NW again.

Many fishing boats around, 30 minute naps all night again.

Passed Ko Butang and Ko Rawi Islands during the night.

 

2008.12.29 (day 828)

Charter boats in Thailand:

www.sunsailasia.com

www.epic-charters.com

www.asia-marine.net

1010 mB, 32°, Bf.1-2N, the wind is weak and raining. Can see a fishing boat in the distance now and then, not too many now.

Breakfast: marmalade on bread.

A.M. uneventful.

Lunch: scrambled eggs with bread.

Ate no bread since Australia,  because lit was expensive in Indonesia and Singapore. Malay bread is not bad and it’s cheap.

P.m.: passing by Ko Ha Yai Islands. Calm, therefore motoring.

19LT POS(07-13N; 098-41.9E). Dead calm, but now waiting instead of motoring.

Small fishes jumping around me during a beautiful sunset.

21LT POS(07-14N; 098-41E)

14.290 MHz radio: Karesz HA5CAR; Feri, HA3MQ; heard others too very weakly but couldn’t understand them. Propagation was very bad today but I heard Feri well.

Forecast: 8-10 kt N-NE windl expected next few days.

21.30: weak southerly wind strengthening gradually.

24LT Bf.5 NE had to reef the main sail.

01LT wind weakening, reef out. Increasingly more fishingboats. Approaching Phuket.

Calm again by dawn. Motoring, want to arrive before noon.

Generally light headwinds here and now even those are weak. Hoisted main sail to help the motor.

 

2008.12.30 (day 829)

Happy Birthday Bogi!

The Somalian pirates: http://index.hu/24ora?s=szomalia

They have been very active recently, most touring boats sail through there toward Europe.

1010 mB, 32°, Bf.1 N, making 3kts NW direction.

10LT POS(07-49.4N; 098-21.1E). Anchored in Ao Chalong Bay.

Glen came over to CARINA in his dinghy, and we had coffee in his catamaran.

He took me ashore in his dinghy and went to check in with Immigration, Customs and the Harbormaster.

Later had a beer with Glen and a few other yachtsmen in a bar on the beach. Met Aben, Spanish, 52 years old, (looks 30), who has been living for 9 years in his 27 foot ship with his dog. He doesn’t think he could ever live on land again.

Later interneted in the bar a while.

Arrived in Thailand!

 

2008.12.31 (day 830)

Big Buddha: http://www.mingmongkolphuket.com/

Graham from Nomadlife came over early morning. I met Nomadlife in Panama, Tonga and Fiji.

There are several familiar ships in the bay from Panama (Apr. 2007).

Had coffee again at Glen’s in the morning. Then went into town and walked up to the lookout (to the Great Buddha). Later bused to the town of Phuket.

 

Walked about a little in town and went to a few parks, the marketplace, and the beach, where they were organizing the New Year’s Eve Party. I didn’t want to celebrate New Years here. Tasted various caterpillars, roaches and other bugs, that I found not bad! The local fruit, Uligamu is sweet and tasty.

Returned to Ao Chalong late afternoon.

 

My New Year’s Eve:

Partying on the beach until dawn. Some fireworks at midnight – this is a small town, it isn’t Patong. The pretty Thai girls raised up a good mood later at the night club with their dancing. They’re very positive and always smiling.

 

If you are rich and white, (old ones included), you can easily find a very young Thai girlfriend. Here the girls are trying to pick up the Johns, the poverty is great and they’re hoping for happiness that way.

Just about every old yachtsman has a very young local girlfriend. I’m not a target with my beard and ragged clothes. J

 

2009.01.01 (day 831)

Had coffee with Glen in his ship in the morning, then went to the town of Patong to pick up the fishing kit I received as a gift. Gábor, thanks for bringing it! I want to thank the Haldoradó fishing-portal, fishing gear shop and fishing web department store (http://www.haldorado.hu) for the professional outfit, Perhaps I can eat more fish from now on!  

Briefly interneted in the evening and went to sleep early!

 

2009.01.02 (day 832)

Went over to have coffee with Glen in the morning and we talked into the afternoon, also watched a film of sailing theme. Glen is an Australian farmer, sold his house and bought a catamaran with his girlfriend.

He told the story of his friend, who is touring in a 36 footer, stops at all resorts and is seeking work.

His profession is tile layer and often finds work for a few weeks at the resorts. That’s how he finances his sailing.

 

Afternoon: packed things away in CARINA, then went to town to internet and dine. Ran into Glen in town and we had a beer in a bar on the beach. Here I met Jan  (Atair, Feeling 345) with whom I met also in Fiji, Vanuatu and Darwin. We have been exchanging e-mails since. In other words it was a pleasant meeting.

He’ll also sail for Sri Lanka in January.

 

Watched a movie in Glen’s catamaran in the evening.

2009.01.03 (day 833) 

I heard that captains Tamás Lékai and Dr. János Schláth were recently retired. They both did much to advance the Hungarian High Seas Shipping They had administered my seagoing qualifying exam.

Departed Ao Chalong early morning at 7, alternately sailing and motoring. Distance to Yacht Haven Marina was 25 nm due north, most of which I sailed in NNE near headwinds. The ebbing tide helped me from 8:30 until my arrival at 17:00.

Yacht Haven POS (8-10.2N; 098-20.17E)

On arrival, Zara the manager of the marina received me with kindness and showed me how I could find everything. I could stay at Yacht Haven Marina free of charge, was invited there back in December. 

I found some acquaintances at the Marina from Singapore, and one Blue Water Rally ship that stayed behind. The Blue Water Rally departed for Sri Lanka a few days ago.

Evening: interneting and cheap dinner at a local eatery.

Went to bed at 03:00.

 

2009.01.04 (day 834)

An earthquake, 7.2 on the Richter scale, shook East Indonesia, as reported by the Indonesian Meteorological and Geophysical Institute.

The Earth moved early Sunday morning, at 04:45 under western New Guinea Island. The epicenter was 135 km SW of the town of Manokwari under the Pacific Ocean, 10 km deep. The USGS reported the strength as 7.6 followed in a half an hour by a 5.1 aftershock. A hotel collapsed in the 167,000 inhabitant Manokwari, where they recovered 3 dead bodies so far, among them a young girl. Nineteen people were hospitalized with broken bones, bruises, cuts and other injuries.

 

Started cleaning the ship in the morning. I have cockroches again, they flew into the ship back in Bali and quickly multiplied. The situation is still under control though.

 

Then Muslin came over and brought a bolt for my rudder. It was loose that I found out during the customary 3-6 month inspection. (Story too long to detail) J

 

Checked every compartment, there are no leaks in the bow. Leaks are still at the first window and at the starboard coffin bunk.

 

Dinner at a small local eatery, rice (30 bahts), vegetables and crab (0.9 USD). Afternoon went to exchange books and I finally found: Handling Small Boats in heavy Weather, by Frank Robb. Then bought 60 liters of water (90 bahts). Here the water should be filtered, which I don’t have (recommended for larger yachts).

Then walked with Muslin to the nearby village. Today is Sunday, one needs some rest too.

The swimming pool at the Marina is too small, so I skipped it.

 

Rained in the evening, so ‘neted briefly. Feel a liittle under the weather (so took some medicine).

The solar panel is charging very well, the batteries show 13.6V with that alone!

 

2009.01.05 (day 835)

Arun (pronounced Aaron): an ancient Indonesian mythological figure, who lived in his small wooden punt and sailed between the Indonesian Islands. There were – and still are – such boatmen in the Sulawesi Islands, who live all their lives in small wooden sailboats. They go ashore to trade only.

 

The 40 foot sloop Octopussy tied up next to me, they came from Burma. Sailing rules in Burma:

Ship’s premit 2,000 USD, plus must pay after each person. An official stays in the ship all the time and you must pay 20 USD/day for him. Therefore most tourers do no call in Burma, except a few wealthy superyachts.

Basically, I can’t work around the ship today, only lying down trying to rest. Taking medicines against fever, balsams, ginseng, camomile tea with honey. Got a bad cold last night (fever, sore throat). Muslin visited me a few times during the day and gave me a large shackle for my anchor. Lost the previous shackle (but not the anchor!)

Andrea and her friend, an Italian charter skipper, also visited. They’re sailing with an Italian group.

We talked about the Caribbbean area, he used to sail there with groups.

Dinner: hot soup at a local eatery. I’m very sick and having a high fever. Departure time is uncertain.

 

Kingdom of Thailand

Area: 514,000 km²

Population: 65 million, 75% Thai, 14% Chinese, 3% Malay, plus mons, khmers.

W. Thailand Ports of Entry: Satun, Kantang, Phuket, Krabi

 

One month visa obtainable at entry.

Time Zone: UTC+7

IALA A buoy system

Money: baht, satang

Language: Differs greatly from other southeast Asian languages. Similar to a Chinese dialect. Hard to learn because of the Thai characters. Pronounciation of ae, ii, ai, o, oe, u, uu, k, kh, p, ph, r, t, th is completely different.

One must learn those first.

Hello, good morning!, So long! – Sawat dii khrup

Food – Ahaan

No – Mai chai

Yes – Chai

Thank you – Khawp khun khrup

History:

 

The Thai people migrated here from south China during the 5 – 7 century A.D. It was part of the Khmer Empire until the 13th century, when they formed their independent Monarchy. Kingdom of Ayutthaya until the mid-15th

century then the Thain nation was formed.

The Chakri Dynasty has been ruling since 1767. King Rama I was crowned in 1782.

Bangkok became the Capital then.

It was never colonized.

Japan occupied it during WWII, and they regained their independence after the war.

Religion: 95% Theravada Buddhist.

Links:

http://www.tourismthailand.org/

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thailand