My few days in
(translated by Laszlo Kapitany)
2009.03.27 (day 916)
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do, than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover!” -- Mark Twain
Morning: picture taking in town, then sleeping in the ship all morning. P.m.: Phil, a neighbor yachtsman took me ashore in his dinghy (I had no dinghy since I started).
Purchases: traditional
The Fight for
Evening, on the beach, while waiting for the dinghy transit to the yacht Mikre (webpage: http:/www.voyageoftraveler.com/) some young, veiled women came by and we talked. (Rowed Ahmed, Ajapful). The price of marriage (wife) 1,000,000 – 1,500,000 rials, and must have house, apartment, car and secure income.
Women can vote and can be elected, but they can not become President or Prime Minister. They must veil their faces from age 14.This was introduced here about 20 years ago, copied from Saudi Arabia, there were many kidnappings of women. They must wear black clothing in public places from age 12.
After about 5 minutes of conversation a man came, asking what I was doing there. Why was I speaking with this woman? His air became tense, though I continued to be very pleasant
(tapped his shoulder, this always seems to work) J
I told him that I was waiting for my friend to take me back to my ship in his dinghy.
“It’s not allowed to speak with women here!”.
I told him there is peace and love in me, and of course I respect their culture and customs. Sorry, but I am always polite with everybody everywhere. If necessary I’ll find another bench to sit on.
He said stay, and the women moved over to another bench.
Talked with a few locals. Marwan is attending an English language school so he can speak it fairly well. (School costs $600/year). His mother is an attorney, thereupon the money for the school. Ramin - harbor policeman I angled with, helped to improve my Arabic.
Habahaba – a little – i.e. whenever they ask whether I speak Arabic? Habahaba.
There was a ship in the harbor the Coast Guard confiscated a few months ago. A nice motor-ship, now in bad disrepair not having been cared for so long.
2009.03.28 (day 917)
Morning: yachtmen’s discussion about the next section. Then browsed in the nearby bookstore, where I could possibly swap my books as well.
A.m.:
Visited the Crater section of town by bus
(ticket 50 rials). Lulu shopping center, church, walk in town, lunch
with a reporter from Yemen Today (Stefani, Soo-Rae), Then looked at the water
cisterns,
Later played soccer with local youths, then walk on the beach. Talked (in French and in English) with Firozi, a driver, about local traffic laws. His way of thinking is very European-like, and he’s having a hard time with the local customs and many prohibitions.
Evening: bused back to the harbor, and a local fisherman took me out to CARINA.
2009.03.29 (day 918)
Islam on the web:
A.m. repairs: green navigation light – replaced cable. Compartment checks – found no water, no leaks. Cleaned the ship’s bottom, then moved CARINA to the pier
Immigration Office: visa cost $58 US.
Photocopying charts (6 maps 5,000 rials)
Met a Somali girl, Fatma. There are
many are refugees from
P.m.: swapped books at the bookstore, bought water, fuel (70 l),
When Fatma wanted to visit the ship, the Harbor Police wouldn’t let her. Then the Chief of Police showed up and there was a lot of shouting. They appeared unbecoming by European standards, but in Muslim culture, a single woman is not allowed to talk with a man on the street or in a park. I had no problem, but Fatma spent nearly an hour at the police station because of it.
They took all her data etc. There is a slight hostility between Yemenis and Somalians, that too could have contributed to the tense situation.
Late afternoon Soo-Rae and his girlfriends visited me in the
harbor. A black American volunteer also came with them,
she works at the Somali refugee camp. Soo-Rae speaks Arabic well, and told me
that the black girlfriend is an American Catholic working here in
This Chief of Police helped to get my travel permit to S’anar in 10 minutes, that otherwise would’ve taken many-many hours. I wasn’t mad at him, this is part of their culture. A man is not allowed to speak with a woman in public places.
Dinner was at Soo-Rae’s. 3 women were cooking, I could barely help with it J
Then walk on the beach. Ranya (26, Canadian), Soo-Rae’s girlfriend, also works at the refugee camp and sleeps there. Hard work and it seems she’s had enough. There are no solutions, only a lot of problems. Ranya has worked in several African refugee camps and told much of the life in them. Very sad stories.
Then back to the harbor by bus. The driver was from
2009.03.30. day 919)
Most local men carry their knives, called Jambia in their belts, used for eating, dancing and fighting. Their traditional kerchiefs are called seda. Moved CARINA back to the anchorage and the neighbor yachtsman took me ashore. Arab city by bus cost (35 rials), normally the bus to S’ana is full, so went over to the coach station where I found transportation to S’ana. 1800 rials ($9 US) and takes 7 hours. The coaches are slow, they also stopped a few times. In one village the local youths came right out to talk, who I was and where I was going. There are few tourists here, and if there are any, those don’t use the local coaches.
Afternoon everybody chews kat, the local drug.
According to local legend S’ana was founded by the son of
Noe, and Cain and Abel founded
P.m.: walking, taking pictures in town. Met 2 Italian women tourists. Since I have no Lonely Planet, I asked them what was worth seeing around here J
Found quarters for 200 rials ($1 US). Slept in a very dirty room with 3 TVs and about 80 locals. Bed, blanket. everything was dirty. Got acquainted with Sami. We went to eat eggs on a bun at a local place for 90 rials. Everybody is chewing kat at the sleeping place, so they’re calm, there’s no tension.
There are many beggars in town and in the country, dire poverty, but public security is good.
They take me for a Muslim because of my great beard, though sometimes they think I’ Jewish, that especially is not good around here. I explain: there is no curly sideburn, have blue eyes and that I’m Catholic (which isn’t much better to them). When they think I’m a Muslim it’s never a problem. Of course, if they ask I tell them I’m Catholic.
Driving style in this country is “brave” J
2009.03.31 (day 920)
The quarters weren’t too bad, I was a little cold and was afraid that I may have collected some lice or fleas (fortunately not). There were few snorers among the 80 men.
Breakfast: purai, zilabia (100 rials)
Then drove about town with Yasir and
Waleed. They had plenty of time and a car, so I was able to see the
town. Parti faces in
Later Museum (ticket $2.50). Detailed presentation of the pre-Islam eras, and introduction of Islamic and Yemeni culture. God was a bull: Al Maqah and the sacrificial vessels also were exhibited. Their ancient writing is complicated and has not been entirely decoded to date.
Later, while walking in town, a Muslim man stopped me and we talked about prophets, the future and the next Prophet.
Many military checkpoints along the road where my passport and travel permit were checked.
Even the soldiers are chewing kat, everything goes very slow in the country because of this local legal drug.
If someone has a Muslim girlfriend, a quiet life is
impossible. Muslim women can have only Muslim husbands. Muslim men can have
non-Muslim wife. It’s very difficult to date a Muslim woman in
Dating Muslim women in
2009.04.01 (day 921)
Returned to the bus depot in town for my forgotten camera. Called the manager last night and they put it in the safe. Shopping: fruits, bread and sweets. Internet. Walking in town. All’s OK, will depart tomorrow.
Evening: dinner in town (Horba). Said good bye to Fatma.
From
Current: still favorable in April, moving toward the west in the Gulf of Aden, then toward the north 0.6 knot in the Red Sea.
Wind:
From the border of
Also checked the ebb-tide times.
Radio:
The main difficulty of this section is transiting the
Route: WP0(12-47.3N, 044-58.09E); WP1(12-44.4N, 044-56.9E); WP2(12-32.4N, 044-22.5E);
WP3(12-31.9N, 043-56.1E); WP4(12-34.4N, 043- 29.6E); WP5(12-36.0N, 043-25.4E);
WP6(12-38.2N, 043-22.6E); WP7(12-44.7N, 043-19.3E); WP8(13-02.2N, 043-01.5E);
WP9(13-03.7N, 042-51.7E); WP10(13-00.9N, 042-47.2E); WP11(13-00.6N, 042-46.0E);
WP12(13-00.1N, 042-45.2E);
Chart: 62290
2009.04.02 (day
922)
1003 mB, 28-35°C
Morning checkout: sails, GPS WP entries, check railing.
7:30LT departure. Following wind: Bf. 4-5, spd. 4-5 kts, butterflying.
Lunch: spaghetti
The seas constantly spill into the cockpit. Keeping away
from the shipping lanes therefore I seldom see any ships, only in the distance.
13:30UTC POS(12-31N 044-19E); spd. 2 kts on course 250°
14.292 MHz radio sked: Karesz HA5CAR (5,5); Bobby (YO5AAG (5,5); Rudy (HA5HS (5,7)
All is OK at night, only windy and wet going.
2009.04.03 (day 923)
After sleeping for a few hours, steered again at night. Increasing traffic, raining and foggy. Everything is wet.
Breakfast: Vitamin C, bread, canned food.
Passed through
0830UTC (POS(13-00N 043-15.3E)
Caught a slight cold, took a Tylenol.
1230UTC POS(13-00N 043-04E). Radio: HA5CAR, HA5HS. Bf.4-5 all day, p.m. Bf.5-6. Lowered main sail, jib only, but still flying.
Sailing by
POS(12-59.88N, 042-45-01E) The authorities don’t like it, but the wind is strong and the wave-motion uncomfortable, so right now I don’t care.
Assab used to be the largest port
in
I stopped here to ask for shipping permit to Massawa, so, if the wind isn’t favorable, I could ‘coast hop’, namely I’ll be able to drop anchor from time to time along the coast and next to the numerous islands. Headwinds frequently blow here in April.
Dinner: bread, leftovers, onions.
Everything is wet, this was a watery run especially the last part. Went to sleep quickly.
2009.04.04 (day 924)
Morning: the wind has diminished. Moved into the harbor. Received a shore-pass and sailing permit at the Immigration Office ‘til Massawa.
Unable to change money, the banks are closed and nobody wants to change because it’s illegal for private persons to possess foreign currency. Some kindly locals invited me for coffee in a café.
1330LT: departure. Wind Bf.4 SE, then strengthening so using a jib only.
1005 mB, 35°C
Lunch: Yemeni sweets, canned fish, bread.
1230UTC 14.292 MHz POS(13-07N 42-41E)
Wind diminished to 10 knots and shifted to easterly. Sunset at 1830LT, dropped the hook at Ras Terma. POS(13-13.69N 042-32.74E)
Very peaceful place, a fishing hut only at the base of a sand dune and a few fishing boats. There are people on the beach.
Dinner: noodles.
Evening: reading the Danube Sailor that I found back in an
2009.04.05 (day 925)
Last night and this morning glued my main sail, then tightened the bolt that holds the rudder.
Breakfast: last dinner leftovers.
Following wind, Bf.4-5 S-SE.
Today’s goal: Beraisde Bahir Selate.
Lunch: spaghetti.
1230UTC 14.292 MHz radio POS(13-40.05N 42-10E); HA5CAR, HA5HS, YO2AAG, HA8VA, forecast E/SE->SE11-17 kts.
16LT arrival and anchored. POS(13-40.05N 42-10.54E)
Swimming and diving, gluing the main sail, charging pencil batteries from the spare battery using a bulb. A fisherman came and asked for money, but soon realized he isn’t going to get anywhere by trying to impersonate an official to check my visa.
Dinner: oranges, biscuits and chocolate.
2009.04.05 (day 926)
Departed at dawn. Breakfast: fried eggs, biscuits, onions.
Motored slowly in the morning to enable steering. The current was with me, but the wind soon got up to Bf.3 SE. Later Bf.5-6, even the jib was too much.
Swam ashore. There was a crater where I walked. Met a local fisher-boy, we fished together and he showed me the area. There are quite a few kinds of birds around here. Pieces of sharks on the beach, a ‘moody’ fishing spot. There also is a large rusty shipwreck near the shore, where there are many fishes, a good fishing spot. The boy’s father and older brothers arrived in their fishing boat. The father speaks a little English, no problem, we understood each other.
1230UTC 14.292 MHz HA5CAR(5,5), HA5HS(5,7).
I’m located close to the shore, that’s why the connection is weak perhaps.
Wind forecast: 7-13kt SE.
Today’s book: Lavina
by Péter Dobai (also from the
17LT departing again under full sails.
Here I met again with the familiar Silver Heel yacht, but they are spending the night in the bay and I am departing.
An hour after departure the security eye on the starboard stay’s turnbuckle came loose.
Changed tack, made temporary repairs with a piece of rope. (10 minutes)
At night: steady Bf.3 SE wind, so I could sleep a little too.
02LT POS(14-22N 41-10E)
2009.04.07 (day 927)
1910 mB, 30-35°C, Bf.3-4 SE, spd 4 kts on 290°
A.m.: much steering.
Breakfast: bread with preserves.
1230LT POS(14-42N, 41-06E)
Lunch: soup, crackers.
1230UTC 14.292 MHz POS(14-46N, 040-53E) Radio: HA5CAR, HA5HS.
Wind: 5-10kts SE
1710LT anchored near Hant Deset island POS(14-45.55N, 040-47.76E)
This anchorage is called ‘Habour’.
Dove at the nearby corals atolls, glued the main sail, reading, listening to the radio.
Wind picking up, anchored again and put out another anchor as well.
Dinner: rice, potatoes, onions, canned fish.
2009.04.08 (day
928)
0630LT departure with motor. Wind:
Bf.1E, slow motoring between shoals and islands in the narrow channel, reading
Heroes of Modern Adventure by Roald Amundsen 1903-1906. Finding
the NW passage in
Today’s goal:
8LT Bf.3-4 winds, fast sailing.
Lunch: rice, canned fish, onions – was fishing but didn’t catch the first, the second one took my hook and leader!
1230UTC 14.292 MHz POS(15-08N 40-25E), Radio: HA5CAR, HA5HS.
Wind forecast 13-15kts SE.
Anchored west of Adyuz Island POS(15-13.15N 40-13.85E) at dusk.
Silver Heel was anchored here already.
Dinner: soup, Promite and biscuits.
2009.04.09 (day 929)
1005 mB, 32-38°C, Bf.3 NW (this anchorage is open toward the NW, so I woke up when the wind shifted at night).
Departed at dawn against direct headwinds in the narrow channel, so motoring and main sail. I don’t like it.
Breakfast: Vitamin C, powdered milk and muesli.
Short seas, everything is wet.
The wind has arrived. Shut down the motor, hoisted main sail and jib.
South Mits’iva canal, wind NE>S 5-10kts; making 2 knots in good direction.
Lunch: biscuits, promite.
1230UTC POS(15-29N 40-01E) 14.292 MHz Radio: HA5CAR, HA5HS, YO2AAG, HA7RW
Wind forecast NNW-NNE, over 10kts for the next few days – not too favorable a direction!
17LT POS(15-32.27N, 039-59.50E)
Anchored near
The radar reflector’s lower connection broke. Dolphins in the bay.
Dinner: noodles, canned beef, onions, chili and wine I got
in
2009.04.10 (day
930)
1009 mB, 29-35°, Bf.3 NW. Morning: departure with the dolphins.
Breakfast: Vitamin C, dinner leftovers.
11LT: passed
From here the wind was Bf.2 NNE, pleasant sailing.
16:30LT: tied up in Massawa behind a huge, 98 ft Italian steel catamaran.
Alexander, the owner, helps me tying up, then we talked and drank tea.
He’s in films, so we had a common theme.
Took care of the usual official necessities at the Harbor Office. Mike, the assistant Harbor Chief
Helped me find the offices and officials. Paid $45 Harbor Fees for 3 days, not cheap! Would have to get a visa for $40 after 3 days, so I shall not stay here very long.
Exchanged money on the black market
Evening: met a couple of local youths in the bar, Sami and Maruita (the bar owner woman, 25 years old). Didn’t drink much, nowadays I don’t drink alcohol, only water. The area is dead, there are no tourists, nobody.
All the locals are friendly, I was invited to dinner and spent a pleasant evening.
1 USD = 15 nakfas at the bank, 30-35 on the black market.
125,000km², 3.5 million population, 9 local languages plus English, Italian, Arabic, Afar
History:
occupied it. 1993
independence from
If I spent several days at the Dahlak Bank, then I’d have to get a permit from the Ministry of Toruism for $20US
It has the worlds lowest GDP. Everybody gets free food but the salaries are very low. National Military Service pays 150 nakfas/month, security pays 400 nakfas….
Lighting in
http://hu.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eritrea
http://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/er.html
http://wikitravel.org/hu/Eritrea
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/eritrea
1- hade
2- kelite
3- seleste
4- arbate
5- hamushte
6- shedushte
7- shewate
8- shemonte
9- teshaate
10- aserte
11- aserte hade
20- isra
100- mi itee
1000 se
How much? - kenday?
Beer - bira
Bread - bani
Coffee - bun
Tea - shay
Sugar - shukar
Water - mai
Yes - oowe
No - aikunun
Beautiful - grum
See you - dehan kun
Thank you - yekanyerlay
Hello - kemaiala
In
For this reason the Ethiopian authorities increased the security measures around airports, hotels and government buildings.